I agree.  It's a perfect fit and couldn't match the kitchen any better.

I hope you can get the thermostat extracted and repaired. 

So wait -- are you saying those stove top elements are original?   If so, they seem like an advanced design for 1936, but they would also serve as a testament to the low use of this range.   I thought they were later retrofits.  It would really be something if today's Calrod elements would snap right in or be easily adapted if you ever needed to replace one.

The thermostatic control for the oven is no problem - any universal oven thermostatic control can replace it. It's easier to replace than to try to fix those horrid plug in bellows they used in the pre-war stuff.

Beautiful stove.

Oh, never fear - there will be something holding them on tight. Manufacturers delighted in hiding the dratted things. Sometimes they even put a drop of carefully matched colour over the hole in which the set screw/pin was placed and smoothed it down. Sunbeam, for example, did that on some of their wonderful 1940-50's waffle irons.

It's most likely to be on the flat bottom or slightly recessed on the shaft - possibly inside of the range, even. Sometimes you can find where they are by locating a flat surface on the control shaft - the set screw will be perpendicular to that.

Somebody here is bound to know, though.

Using two elements run together, such as your range uses and playing with the voltage is a very easy way to get lots of heat settings from simple controls. Back before the infinite heat regulators, it was common. This is possible because when you halve the voltage*, you cut the heat output to one-fourth.* Let's look at what I can get out of two nominally 220/240 volt coils in such a configuration* (your range may not have done it this way, of course). Let's place one element at 1000 watts and the other at 1250. No idea what your's draw, of course.

So, both together at 220V gives us a whopping 2250Watts or a really hot 'high'.

Both run in serial at 220V gives us a respectable 563Watts or a pretty nice medium-low.

In between, of course, we could have one element at 1000W at 220 or one at 1250W at 220. Pretty good for medium, no? Medium high could be

1250W at 220V + 250W at 110V= 1500.

And so on.

With just a simple switch, you could have:

High..............2250

Med. High....1500

Med...............1200

Med. Low......1000 (not ideal, but not bad)

Low................512

Extra low.......300

Simmer...........250

In fact, many pre-infinite units did have either 5 or 7 settings and this is how they did it.

If your range only has 3 settings, I'm guessing they may have done it all on 220V.

What a neat stove! Keep posting pics, please. Love to see the innards behind the control panel!

*At this point, I'd like to speak to the ladies here who are clutching their pearls and foaming at the mouth about how AC is not DC and thus we must consider PF, etc: Darlinks, it's a purely resistance load. Seriously. 

Heat helps to loosen bakelite.  Try putting a blow dryer to a knob and seeing if you can coax it off.  My mom's stove, which was 1) A Westinghouse, and 2) Made in 1949, did not use set screws on the burner control knobs.  Yours may not either.

I had a stubborn situation with an old Western Electric E-1 handset that had a transmitter cap that wouldn't unscrew.  A blow dryer and a strap wrench did the trick.

Grab that book!