Thread Number: 12662
1-18 timer disassembly
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Post# 220970   7/5/2007 at 21:18 (5,993 days old) by goprog ()        

Don't know if it will be of much use to anyone, but when trying
to wash a heavier load today to see if I could cause the spin
to act badly (implying I need the spin roller I ordered but
haven't received yet - nor do I see a charge on my credit card)
the machine stopped periodically. Past experience has
indicated this is a problem with the contacts in the timer.

So I took the timer off and disassembled it to lightly touch
up the contact points with 600 grit wet/dry paper (using it

After I put it back together, it did stop once more, but a
tap with the handle of a screwdriver on the timer got it
going again. Maybe I didn't get debris blown out between
the contacts as well as I thought.

Anyway, for anyone who is wondering what to expect when taking
it apart I submit the following 8 pictures and commentary.

Wiring Color Code
B (Bla) - Black
BR - Brown
GY - Gray
R - Red
BLU (BU?) - Blue
W (Wh) - White
G - Green
Or - Orange
Pu - Purple
PK - Pink
T - Tan

1 - Front

Post# 220971 , Reply# 1   7/5/2007 at 21:22 (5,993 days old) by goprog ()        

Picture turned out to be out-of-focus which I did not
realize until reassembled so labeled the terminals
(and then labeled them on the Front picture too to
be consistent)

2 - Back

Post# 220972 , Reply# 2   7/5/2007 at 21:24 (5,993 days old) by goprog ()        

3 - Timer motor removed from timer control

Post# 220973 , Reply# 3   7/5/2007 at 21:30 (5,993 days old) by goprog ()        

The advance mechanism legs. Haven't determined if they go
into the timer control mechanism in a particular way. Just
seem to fit in there to push the timer wheel forward. Being
attached to the timer motor itself seems to position them
correctly, but maybe someone else has more insight.

4 - Advance mechanism legs

Post# 220975 , Reply# 4   7/5/2007 at 21:35 (5,993 days old) by goprog ()        

Timer opened up. Before removing screws note position of the
spring. You should see the end of the spring sticking out the
hole under the BROWN terminal on the front of the timer. (It
is possible it might work going out the hole in the back, but
since it probably already has a slight bend, might want to keep
it in the same one.)

I included the part #'s here, just because they were visible.
I'm doubting the parts can actually be bought separately?

5 - Timer Opened Up

Post# 220976 , Reply# 5   7/5/2007 at 21:37 (5,993 days old) by goprog ()        

Picture showing the 2 (two) washers and spring location on the
timer shaft, just in case someone should wonder.

6 - Timer Shaft washers and spring

Post# 220977 , Reply# 6   7/5/2007 at 21:40 (5,993 days old) by goprog ()        

Doesn't show much, but anyone wondering (since these pictures
really don't show the timing patterns), you cannot put the
control wheel back on the shaft incorrectly. Do not force it.
When it is right, it goes on easily fitting the two splines
on the shaft. If it is reversed, it slightly matches the
splines, but does not seat correctly. (Alternatively, the
molded part # referred to in a previous photo faces the front
of the timer - at least in my experience.)

7 - Back of timer with wheel removed

Post# 220980 , Reply# 7   7/5/2007 at 21:51 (5,993 days old) by goprog ()        

Just a side view of the timer shaft showing the Push/Pull
stop grooves and the on/off contact post.

When you push on the front control it pushes the circular
disk away from the On/Off switch post which then releases
pressure to the on/off contact switch shown in a previous
picture. When you pull the front control to start the
machine, the post forces the on/off contact closed.

The two grooves limit the movement when you push/pull the
control. The two springs that fit into these grooves and
noted in an earlier picture have to be disengaged to separate
the two halves of the timer control. I just used a screwdriver
but it might work better to actually remove the part holding
the springs by removing the two screws shown on the picture
of the front of the timer.

8 - Side view of timer shaft

Post# 220982 , Reply# 8   7/5/2007 at 22:04 (5,993 days old) by goprog ()        

One other note. The "Wh-Power" terminal on the front of
the timer is connected to a white wire that (on my machine)
comes all the way over from the left side of the machine
from the end of the fluorescent bulb. This is a double
terminal with a White-Red wire on the other terminal. I
had a tendency to lose track of this since it doesn't have
a "memory" of where it belongs since it is so long. Most
of the other wires sort of postion themselves where they
belong though the color coding keeps them under control.

Otherwise, I've had to disassemble this timer 3 or more times
so far over 20 years to clean up some of the contact points.

Remember some of the contacts are double contacts - contact
when closed and contact when open - so might have to clean

Post# 220983 , Reply# 9   7/5/2007 at 22:09 (5,993 days old) by goprog ()        

I see I made a mistake. There are no screws that hold down
the piece on the front of the timer above the two spring
wires that fit in the shaft grooves. You may have to push/hold
the springs out of the way with something to separate the two
halves of the timer.

Post# 220990 , Reply# 10   7/6/2007 at 00:23 (5,993 days old) by roto204 (Tucson, AZ)        

roto204's profile picture
THANK YOU for such detailed photographs and info.

This is archive-worthy!

Post# 221053 , Reply# 11   7/6/2007 at 09:40 (5,993 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Hey Goprog, thank you for the very cool and detailed information. We love that kind of stuff around here. Over the past few years I’ve begun restoring all of my own timers, before that I would just send them out to Midwest Timer Service, but their work has become very “spotty” as of late and over 50% of the timers I’ve received back from them have an issue of sorts. I believe there is a someone down in Florida who does timer work and seems to do a good job. But these old timers are becoming more rare and charging $$$ for simple timer work so it is VERY important for us to learn how to work on our own timers now. The two major two types of mechanical timers used in vintage automatic washers are made by Mallory and Kingston. GE also produced all of the own timers, and they are very simple to work on, as they were made to be repaired in the field. The nice thing about Mallory timers is if the contact just needs to be sanded, they have two access panels that come off so you can reach most of the contacts without having to take them apart.

By the way I see you are in MN, YAY another member in the Minnesotan contingent. Are you here in the metro?

Post# 221063 , Reply# 12   7/6/2007 at 10:14 (5,993 days old) by goprog ()        

Funny how that Kingston timer looks so familiar...

Would be nice to know if there is a better way to clean up the
contacts. I suppose if they've been burned/arced it will take
some aggressive sanding, but don't want to remove too much
material. The access panels sound like a good idea. The
plastic/bakelite edge of the Kingston-type makes it difficult
to get at the contacts. If it was open one could use a point
file to get a decent, square milling of the contacts.

If the timer interruption of last night was not a one time
thing and I have to redo or do a better job of cleaning up
residue, I will try taking better pictures/lighting. This
was somewhat of an experiment.

Yes, SW suburbs of TC.

Post# 221198 , Reply# 13   7/7/2007 at 09:58 (5,992 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
The best way unfortunately is to have another Kingston timer on hand and take a good contact rod out of there and replace it in your timer.

You could try a good spray contact cleaner as well, radio shack sells it.

Post# 221216 , Reply# 14   7/7/2007 at 13:34 (5,992 days old) by goprog ()        

To do this requires removing/drilling out the old contact rod
and riveting in the new one?

Post# 221343 , Reply# 15   7/8/2007 at 09:05 (5,991 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
To do this requires removing/drilling out the old contact rod and riveting in the new one?

Yes that is exactly what I mean. Although I have used a small screw and nut with two star lockwashers on a Mallery timer once since I didn't have a rivet tool then and it worked perfectly.

Post# 221804 , Reply# 16   7/10/2007 at 13:43 (5,989 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        

jetcone's profile picture
Do you think the Mallroy timer motors are interchangable with the same dryer timer escapments??

Post# 221838 , Reply# 17   7/10/2007 at 18:54 (5,989 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Do you think the Mallroy timer motors are interchangable with the same dryer timer escapments??
I'm confused Jon, dryer timers don't usually have escapements. They run like a clock, slowly advancing. Are you talking about the contacts?

Post# 221870 , Reply# 18   7/10/2007 at 21:34 (5,988 days old) by jetcone (Schenectady-Home of Calrods,Monitor Tops,Toroid Transformers)        
No, on my Combos

jetcone's profile picture
there is a Mallory timer motor attached to a drive mechanism that drives the indicator wheel on the dryer control. It looks alot like your washer timer except there is no escapement, just a box with gearing connected to the timer dial.
My timer motor is dead so it won't advance the drive that moves the indicator wheel.
I am wondering if a washer timer motor runs the same way as a dryer timer motor?
I don't see why it wouldn't but I do know the early Maytag/Mallory timer motors ran CW and the Bendix/Mallory were CCW. Or vica versa. So you can't put a Maytag/Mallory timer motor on a Bendix. The dial will run backwards.

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