Thread Number: 16375
Pics 1957 Mobile Maid Pump Issue |
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Post# 272131   3/25/2008 at 21:26 (5,874 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 272132 , Reply# 1   3/25/2008 at 21:27 (5,874 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 272133 , Reply# 2   3/25/2008 at 21:29 (5,874 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 272135 , Reply# 3   3/25/2008 at 21:31 (5,874 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 272136 , Reply# 4   3/25/2008 at 21:39 (5,874 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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The next step is to remove the pump assembly from the motor as that is where I suspect the leak is. Do I remove the 3 screws form the bottom of the motor to free the pump from the motor ? That's what common sense is telling me. As with the old machines, I really want to go step by step and gently handle anything that could possibly break and not be able to replace that part. I have learned to not rush anything and let things loosen on their own with out forceful tactics. Especially after the repairs on the KD2-P drain valve.... What's next Robert ? LOL
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Post# 272150 , Reply# 5   3/25/2008 at 22:52 (5,874 days old) by unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)   |   | |
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Fabulous Eddie, well first of all your not gonna be able to get the pump housing off without getting that impeller off of the motor shaft first. And directly below the impeller should be the bad seal. Unfortunately it sounds like Jeff said there was a special tool to pull the impeller up and off of the shaft. Before you do anything I would plug up the drain hose hole and fill the pump with water and see if water still seeps through the rubber spout. Maybe its not coming from under the impeller, but somewhere else (this is highly doubtful). You are probably going to have to devise some way of getting the impeller off the shaft without GE's special puller. Any idea's Jeff and everyone else??? You might consider heating the impeller at the bottom of the t-section with a torch and taking a vice grip pliers and locking it under the T, then using a hammer hit the vice grips in an upward fashion to force the hot impeller up. |
Post# 272172 , Reply# 6   3/26/2008 at 05:25 (5,874 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 272212 , Reply# 8   3/26/2008 at 10:33 (5,874 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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There are two motor repair shops in this little town. Martin Electric and United Electric Motors (which says in their phone book listing "Established 1982 - Electrical Contractors - Sales - Rewind - Repairs - Any Make or Horse Power"). I think Mickelson Pump Shop also did rewinding in the past. They're still operating, but not listed under electric motor repair in the phone book, and are at the same physical location as United, so maybe it has morphed into separate businesses.
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Post# 272255 , Reply# 9   3/26/2008 at 14:33 (5,874 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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Post# 272307 , Reply# 10   3/26/2008 at 16:31 (5,874 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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