Thread Number: 19982
Kitchenaid KUDS230B- Totally screwed |
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Post# 319760 , Reply# 1   12/14/2008 at 21:55 (5,611 days old) by joe233 ()   |   | |
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Edit Correction: I meant to say webbed ring. The sort of webbed ring that goes around the spray arm seat is broken and came apart when I tried to put it back. |
Post# 319818 , Reply# 3   12/15/2008 at 07:34 (5,611 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Post# 319846 , Reply# 4   12/15/2008 at 11:49 (5,611 days old) by toggleswitch2 ()   |   | |
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It can only be: 1- Float / water-level safety cut-off switch 2- Water inlet solenoid 3- Timer 4- Wiring associated with these items. To me it sounds like the timer |
Post# 319874 , Reply# 5   12/15/2008 at 15:16 (5,610 days old) by joe233 ()   |   | |
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I thought it may be the timer also from doing a some google research. The timer costs $200. We may be looking for a new dishwasher. Can you all recommend a good economical dishwasher? |
Post# 319937 , Reply# 10   12/15/2008 at 23:15 (5,610 days old) by joe233 ()   |   | |
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Offset Phillips :-) |
Post# 320128 , Reply# 12   12/17/2008 at 13:51 (5,608 days old) by joe233 ()   |   | |
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Waiting for an answer? :-) Sorry I posted to the wrong thread. |
Post# 320151 , Reply# 14   12/17/2008 at 17:06 (5,608 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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The smoke could come from either the water heating element if something meltable/burnable got on it (such as pieces from the pump strainer), or from the drying heater element. The water heating element is exposed in the pump sump area. The drying element is in the blower housing outside the tub. Dust can get on it, or it could short-out to account for smoking. The water valve is behind the lower panel, where the incoming water line (from under your sink) connects to the dishwasher. Your link above at RepairClinic shows the valve so you should be able to identify it. Remove the valve and examine it for clogging, clean it if necessary, reinstall, see if that helps. However, if the machine *consistently* *does* fill at particular points during a cycle, and consistently *doesn't* fill at other points, then the problem may be the timer, not the valve. Run a cycle with the lower panel off, check for voltage at the valve at a point in the cycle when it should be filling but isn't. PartsTap.com has the valve $5 less than RepairClinic. |
Post# 320176 , Reply# 16   12/17/2008 at 19:49 (5,608 days old) by dadoes (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Post# 320197 , Reply# 18   12/17/2008 at 21:22 (5,608 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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For $43 more, I'd suggest the 13112 or 13412, these two are essentially like above, but add a staisness steel tub. I can vouch from personal experience, the SS tub retains heat longer and aids in overnight drying far better than the plastic tub. Also, be aware tha an average cycle, with 1/2 an hour dry time, runs about 2 hours and 6 minutes, (126 minutes) the shortest I've ever had was 110 minutes and that was with very minimal soil that didn't trip the soil sensor. That's using Smart Wash with only heated dry. My grungiest load has taken 2 hours and 47 minutes. I've had my machine for 1.5 years.
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Post# 320213 , Reply# 20   12/17/2008 at 23:38 (5,608 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Joe, all I can tell you is my experience. I am know for being pretty brutal for dishwasher loading on this site. I eat oatmeal for breakfast. Bowls sit for up to 7 days before they are washed. I use Cascade Complete and Smart Wash cycle. No trace of the foot. Same with pots used to bil rice and I've been known to have the rice cook partially dry with about 1/2 an inch of rice left on the bottom of the pan. I don't touch the pan. It gets dumped in the dishwasher. Again, clean pot at the end of the cycle. Throw a baked pasta cassarole dish in there untouched, CLEAN. My dishwasher is essentially the same one as what I suggested, mine just has a heavier sound insulation pad and a different control panel. I've been amazed because earlier versions of the whirlpol Tall Tub produced dishwashers were far finnikier in loading needs. I've only had one cereal bowl not come out clean recently and it's because I put it in the top rack and had another bowl too close to it. I usually put the bowls in the bottom rack. I essentially have abused this dishwasher by some people's standards. I couldn't live with a dishwasher (European) where you had a filter to clean because my excess food soil would be trapped in there every load. I don't believe in rinsing and I barely scrape at best. This is how I've washed dishes since 1984 when dishwasher really got on the ball!!
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Post# 320214 , Reply# 21   12/17/2008 at 23:41 (5,608 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Post# 320218 , Reply# 22   12/18/2008 at 00:03 (5,608 days old) by joe233 ()   |   | |
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The Kenmore 13742 has Sani-Rinse and it seems the Kenmore 13112 does not. I am guessing the Kenmore 13742 has a few more features that are offset by not having the stainless steel tub. Is this correct? |
Post# 320221 , Reply# 23   12/18/2008 at 01:22 (5,608 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Post# 320224 , Reply# 24   12/18/2008 at 02:44 (5,608 days old) by joe233 ()   |   | |
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The 13112 has a filtration system. What's that like? |
Post# 320239 , Reply# 26   12/18/2008 at 07:00 (5,608 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Post# 320240 , Reply# 27   12/18/2008 at 07:01 (5,608 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Post# 320351 , Reply# 30   12/18/2008 at 19:56 (5,607 days old) by jeffg ()   |   | |
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I don't know what this reviewer means by buttons "tearing off". It would help to know what model he's referring to. |