Thread Number: 32240
Coverting a 220V dryer to 110V |
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Post# 486243   1/3/2011 at 23:57 (5,040 days old) by Pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)   |   | |
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Post# 487977 , Reply# 3   1/10/2011 at 15:44 (5,033 days old) by toggleswitch (New York City, NY)   |   | |
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Hi Junior:
Write to me offline I made a custom extension cord with a standard 30a 220v female (for a US dryer) and a heavy duty 120v 20a male for my electric dryer. My new apartment doesn't have 220v, I also made one for GadgetGary. Perhaps he will be so kind as to post a picture for us all. By simply giving the heating coil 120v (hot and neutral) instead of 220v (two different "hots") the whole thing is quick, non-invasive and enables a US dryer to work on a 15a or 20a 120v circuit. As stated above in a prior post the heating coil's wattage goes to 25% of what it is rated as (when used on 110 v nstead of 220v) enabling the dryer to use a regular outlet. Other than the heater, all the other (other) components use 110v. The bsst type of system to us on 110v is a SENSOR dry. Be nice to me (as you always are, LOL), and I will consider making one for you at cost + shipping (i,.e. no profit for me) Let's talk. Regards, Steve This post was last edited 01/10/2011 at 19:12 |
Post# 488032 , Reply# 4   1/10/2011 at 19:10 (5,033 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Almost any 240 volt dryer can be wired to run properly on 120 volt power, the only difference will be that the heat output will be reduced to 1/4 of the wattage that is achieved on 240 volts. The 1/4 wattage will usually result in about 3 times the drying time that 240 volts gives, alltough due to the increased running time and air flow it doesn't take 4 times as long to dry the same load, the dryer will actually use about 15% less total power on 120 operation. All that said all you need is a standard 3 wire 120 cord-set of at least 14 ga. copper wire and a strain relief to install on the dryer where the cord goes into the dryer. You then connect the white or neutral wire to the center neutral terminal of the dryer { disconnect the neutral ground wire or strap first ] then connect the black wire to the black terminal. Then connect a jumper wire from the center neutral terminal to the other outer terminal usually a red wire is on that terminal. The fully electronically controlled WP built dryers will shut of after about 110 minutes of drying if they don't sense dryness before that time as a safety precaution. And some of the newest machines may give you a fault code if they don't sense 200-240 power. But otherwise you should be ready to roll, keep in mind even though people often use the term 220 volts that there are no 220 volt lines or dryers in the US, this is important to keep in mind if you are ever trying to figure amp draw or wattage for any appliances.
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Post# 488296 , Reply# 7   1/11/2011 at 19:11 (5,032 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 488301 , Reply# 8   1/11/2011 at 19:25 (5,032 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Converted to or built to run on such power had better have either a washing machine with high final extraction speed, or a "spin dryer". Otherwise, yes it can and will take ages to dry loads of laundry.
Being as this may, my vintage Whirlpool portable, running on puny 1350w, and do about 5lbs of wash in 30 to 35 minutes. Mind you the Miele has final spin speeds of either 900rpms, or 1100rpms. Then there is the Hoover or "Paki" spin dryers, both of which hit >2500 rpms. The only benefit one can see to using a larger drum for 120v drying is the ability to do larger items (comforters, duvets, quilts, etc), but larger loads unless really extracted well are going to take time. Have always wanted to play around with one of those vintage Frigidaire condenser dryers, the early ones that ran at 1750w on 120v power. Indeed was temped by a recentl post to a CL ad for one. But haven't the room nor mechanical know how to keep such a thing running. Nor willing to put up with the heat/humidity they throw off during the warmer months of the year. |
Post# 488319 , Reply# 9   1/11/2011 at 20:18 (5,032 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Fairfield, CA)   |   | |
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Launderess, I always enjoy your posts...
John, it seems to me that many of the newer W/P electronic controlled dryers will actually flash a trouble code on the display to alert the owner if it cannot detect proper 220v power from, say, a service breaker with one leg tripped. I'm not sure how they would react to being rigged for 110v operation... RCD |
Post# 488384 , Reply# 10   1/12/2011 at 07:32 (5,032 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 488446 , Reply# 12   1/12/2011 at 12:32 (5,031 days old) by Pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)   |   | |
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The problem is that there is no 240V service available. I dry everything on low heat anyway, but I'd rather not have to wire a new plug. Would it matter what temp I selected if the machine was wired to 120V? Would it complain if I set it to high or would it use a lower temp off of the 120 if I selected low?
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Post# 488519 , Reply# 14   1/12/2011 at 17:04 (5,031 days old) by Toggleswitch (New York City, NY)   |   | |
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My dryer (which now uses only 110v) has an auto-dry system that uses time and temperature (i.e. not sensors). This type of auto-dry works by having a timer that advances only when the heater is "OFF".
With mine I MUST use a "LOW" heat setting in that the timer would otherwise probably never move. On 110v the heater in my dryer does NOT shut off until the clothing is dry and evaporation stops. Junior, AFAIK you are going to have to get a heavy-duty 110v (air-condtioner) extension cord that can handle a full 1,800 watts [15a x 120v], cut the female end off and use it as a cord and plug for your dryer, (as 220v dryers here don't come with a cord) or go with my suggestion if the machine already has a cord and plug and made an extension cord that delivers 120v to the heater. In either case I do recommend removing the dryer's the ground strap that grounds the machine through the neutral conductor and go with cords that have a separate ground conductor. (i.e. Three conductors for a 110v plug & cord and 4 conductors if the machien is to remain with or have a 220v plug and cord. My idea I think is more prrctical if you will have a number of 220v (used?) machines in and out of your possession, and dont want to keep outfitting the dryers with new cords to be able to use them on 110v. |
Post# 488542 , Reply# 16   1/12/2011 at 19:04 (5,031 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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3 belt the only full size dryers that I ever saw that operate the heater element on 120 volts for the low heat setting were older WH machines aprox pre 1988 and earlier and some early TOL GE dryers where the extra low heat setting was labeled economy. Other than those two examples I don't know of any other 240 volt dryers old or new that do use 120 volts for the low setting. Steve if you are going to attach a 120 volt three wire cord to a 240 volt dryer YOU MUST disconnect the neutral ground otherwise if the neutral and hot lines get reversed any where along the way the entire dryer cabinet would be hot with 120 volts. If you read any manufactures instructions about doing this they all advise removing the center ground strap or ground wire.
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Post# 488641 , Reply# 17   1/13/2011 at 08:17 (5,031 days old) by Toggleswitch (New York City, NY)   |   | |
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Post# 488651 , Reply# 18   1/13/2011 at 10:17 (5,030 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 488677 , Reply# 19   1/13/2011 at 12:55 (5,030 days old) by Toggleswitch (New York City, NY)   |   | |
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LOL thanks, but I don't offend easily. I didn't even take note of it really. I actually thought you were backing me up! LOL
And if that was intended to be a stern rebuke, HIT ME HARDER LIKE YOU MEAN IT. LOL Yes talk soon! This post was last edited 01/13/2011 at 16:19 |
Post# 488728 , Reply# 21   1/13/2011 at 16:09 (5,030 days old) by Toggleswitch (New York City, NY)   |   | |
This post has been removed by the member who posted it. This post was last edited 01/13/2011 at 16:27 |
Post# 488824 , Reply# 23   1/13/2011 at 23:47 (5,030 days old) by Pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)   |   | |
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Post# 488839 , Reply# 24   1/14/2011 at 03:06 (5,030 days old) by alr2903 (TN)   |   | |
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Jamie, why not simply consider a Tag portadryer, or whirlpool portable. The little whirlys are on CL often, signed plug & play. alr2903 |
Post# 488851 , Reply# 25   1/14/2011 at 07:34 (5,030 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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All US 240 volt dryers that are made in both gas and electric versions can be easily and safely run on 120 volts either for testing- demonstration purposes or even drying clothes. Anyone doing this must have enough knowledge and sense to make sure that electrical connections are made properly, that the machine is grounded properly and that it operate properly when it is connected to power. If anyone is unsure of doing this they shouldn't do it. All dryers have a wring diagram attached to them and one only need to look at it to see if the conversion is possible and how to do it.
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