Thread Number: 32490
Dirty Glasses |
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Post# 490023 , Reply# 1   1/19/2011 at 06:26 (4,707 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
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Post# 490026 , Reply# 2   1/19/2011 at 06:32 (4,707 days old) by cuffs054 ![]() |
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Speaking of gross, it is amazing how nasty the drain cover and "inerds" of the Natulis get. You would think it would stay clean with the detergent but nasty crap builds up in and around there and needs to be cleaned monthly. Maybe your WP has similar areas. |
Post# 490134 , Reply# 4   1/19/2011 at 13:08 (4,707 days old) by Toggleswitch ![]() |
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Post# 490158 , Reply# 5   1/19/2011 at 14:32 (4,707 days old) by ricky5050 ![]() |
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My friends whirlpool was doing similar, it was because the top rack had a connector at the rear which fed the upper spray arm, and even though the top rack pushed in normally it was not connecting with the outlet on the back wall of the machine, if you jiggled the rack up and down and pushed hard the rack engaged correctly and and correct pressure was resumed in top rack. This had to be done each time it was used, they had put up with the poor cleaning by always using the intensive wash and under loading it assuming that was what needed, and therefore the lower wash arm was probably doing most of the cleaning. This may be worth checking as well as all the other suggestions
Richard |
Post# 490365 , Reply# 6   1/20/2011 at 12:35 (4,706 days old) by mysteryclock (Franklin, TN)   |   | |
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Ran into that problem a while back when using the Cascade All-In-One packs - always seemed to be the glasses in the back corners of the upper rack ended up with dried-on crud inside them that wasn't there when they went in. Switched over to the (at the time phosphated) Finish Quantum Powerball pacs and all of the sudden, glasses were clean and sparkly again! When phosphates went away I went back to trying the Cascade pacs since the FQB P-free pacs weren't working as well (cloudy glasses), and that improved things... but the sticky bits on the glasses eventually came back. Finally switched back to the FQP-free pacs with 1/2 tsp STPP in pre- and main-wash and now it is as good as it was originally.
I think the FQP pacs must have a better rinse-agent onboard to keep that stuff from getting into and sticking on the glasses. |
Post# 490423 , Reply# 7   1/20/2011 at 17:23 (4,706 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
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Post# 490428 , Reply# 8   1/20/2011 at 17:44 (4,706 days old) by Combo52 ![]() |
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Post# 490511 , Reply# 11   1/21/2011 at 06:45 (4,705 days old) by dj-gabriele ()   |   | |
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If the diswasher is less than 2 years old why don't you call the seller and ask for a free repair under warranty? |
Post# 490518 , Reply# 12   1/21/2011 at 07:37 (4,705 days old) by Combo52 ![]() |
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Post# 490521 , Reply# 13   1/21/2011 at 08:11 (4,705 days old) by coldspot66 ![]() |
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Sounds like you water may be too hot????? I thought enzyme detergents work best at lower temps. |
Post# 491199 , Reply# 17   1/24/2011 at 06:31 (4,702 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
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![]() I would suspect that water being too cold would more likely be the culprit. Some dishwashers don't pause the timer to allow for water heating to a preset temperature. Others do. Some dishwashers, if you turn the heating element off for drying, it also prevents it from heating water during washing and rinsing. My Aunt had an old Whirlpool back in the 70's that was configured this way.
Malcolm |
Post# 491484 , Reply# 18   1/25/2011 at 18:11 (4,701 days old) by toploader55 (Massachusetts Sand Bar, Cape Cod)   |   | |
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The Wash Water should never be more than 165 F. Anything above will bake on stubborn food soil. The Final Rinse should never be more than 193-195F. This High Temp will cause Blue Streaks on Glasses and Flatware. And Possibly on Dishes as well. As I understand Very High Water Temperatures in combination with the Drying Agent will produce the Blue Streaks.
This is in a Commercial Application. |
Post# 491733 , Reply# 20   1/26/2011 at 19:58 (4,699 days old) by simpsomatic ![]() |
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