Thread Number: 33501
Help on KDS-18 |
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Post# 504032 , Reply# 1   3/14/2011 at 13:27 (4,792 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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I'm hardly an expert, but you may have to replace the timer.
Steve T. the Hobart man knows best. Hopefully he'll see your post and provide some advice.
I think it's safe to say that among KA fans on this site, the KDS-18 is the winner for all-time best KA model Hobart ever turned out. It's definitely worth fixing. |
Post# 504074 , Reply# 3   3/14/2011 at 16:38 (4,792 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Although a little steep in price, here's a brand new timer that should fix her up.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO qsd-dan's LINK on eBay |
Post# 504201 , Reply# 5   3/15/2011 at 05:45 (4,791 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)   |   | |
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Before investing in a timer, I would try disconnecting the rinse agent dispenser. Be sure to put electrical tape on the end of the wire. The timer is not the problem. It is the dispenser. |
Post# 504213 , Reply# 6   3/15/2011 at 08:06 (4,791 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Yes there are several possibilities as to why it stops at this point that don't indicate a bad timer. It could also be a bad Sani-rinse thermostat or program switch or even broken wire. And as Tom suggested it could be as simple as a bad rinse aid dispenser. Often when you have a classic product like this that you like it is best to find a good repair person that is familiar with your machine to check it out, then you can start searching for parts if nessessary. You normally will not find good repair help by calling one of the big repair companies like Sears etc. |
Post# 504285 , Reply# 10   3/15/2011 at 14:06 (4,791 days old) by cmlambkds18 ()   |   | |
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Ok. Will give it a go this evening and let you know what happens. Thanks for the warning as well. |
Post# 504349 , Reply# 12   3/15/2011 at 19:14 (4,791 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Post# 504359 , Reply# 14   3/15/2011 at 21:18 (4,790 days old) by cmlambkds18 ()   |   | |
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Thank you all for the great info on things to consider and look for. Will carefully do that. One (probably dumb) question, though. What is or where is the program switch? |
Post# 504362 , Reply# 15   3/15/2011 at 21:32 (4,790 days old) by qsd-dan (West)   |   | |
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Post# 505082 , Reply# 18   3/18/2011 at 20:50 (4,787 days old) by stevet (West Melbourne, FL)   |   | |
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and sent you an email in response to your thoughts in the above box! Steve |
Post# 505112 , Reply# 20   3/18/2011 at 22:27 (4,787 days old) by cmlambkds18 ()   |   | |
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Here is another shot of it..... |
Post# 505207 , Reply# 22   3/19/2011 at 15:49 (4,787 days old) by cmlambkds18 ()   |   | |
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Getting voltage to front water heater element. No voltage to other element toward back. |
Post# 505578 , Reply# 25   3/21/2011 at 11:17 (4,785 days old) by cmlambkds18 ()   |   | |
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Looks like the contact (that melted the cog) leads to the Sani-Cycle t-stat (white wire with violet marks). Will try to test this t-stat and report. Chris |
Post# 505600 , Reply# 26   3/21/2011 at 12:43 (4,785 days old) by cmlambkds18 ()   |   | |
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Sani-cycle t-stat tests ok. |
Post# 505738 , Reply# 28   3/21/2011 at 21:11 (4,784 days old) by cmlambkds18 ()   |   | |
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BTW, can I use a multi-meter to test the element? If so, how do I go about it? Thanks ---Chris |
Post# 505798 , Reply# 31   3/22/2011 at 07:38 (4,784 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 507110 , Reply# 33   3/26/2011 at 22:54 (4,779 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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