Thread Number: 34084
Amana Dryer Doesn't Heat
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Post# 511864   4/16/2011 at 23:11 (4,838 days old) by wnlewis (122 East First Street Newton Kansas 67114)        

My Amana Heavy Duty Dryer, model LE4307L, S/N 9212017101, has some problems I would like to try to fix.


The Fabric Selector Knob is missing. That I can probably buy at a parts place.


The Timer does not want to advance. Again, that can probably be purchased at a parts place.


The heater does not work (sometimes there is a very little heat out of it, but hardly ever). It is a 5400 Watt element. Is it likely the element needs to be replaced, or could it be there is a sensor that is not working? Or is there an outside possibility, the no heat problem is linked to the timer (I doubt that, but I don't know much about this dryer).


Thanks for the suggestions.


Neal Lewis

Post# 511866 , Reply# 1   4/16/2011 at 23:31 (4,838 days old) by Pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture

There could be a temperature sensor that is at fault (those are very very cheap) or it could have something to do with the element or the timer. Will the dryer timer advance on a timed cycle vs an auto dry cycle?

Post# 511995 , Reply# 2   4/17/2011 at 18:23 (4,837 days old) by wnlewis (122 East First Street Newton Kansas 67114)        

Hi Pulsator,

My wife is from Clare. We drive right by Big Rapids every time we go up to see the family. We stopped at Howard City once to go to church, but have not stopped in Big Rapids.

I have the dryer running right now on Time Dry.

It does advance on Time Dry but does not warm up. I get a ticking sound from the timer, even when I have not pushed in to start the machine.

I have shifted it to Automatic Regular/Delicate. I do not get a ticking sound at any time (when I have pushed in on the selector knob, or when I haven't). The selector knob does not advance.

I do not get a ticking sound in the Automatic Permanent Press/Knits area.

Post# 511996 , Reply# 3   4/17/2011 at 18:32 (4,837 days old) by Pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture

Okay, the timer is working just fine then. The way those Amana/Speed Queen dryers work for the auto dry cycle is by thermostatic control. The machine starts off the cycle by heating until the temperature sensor is satisfied and then it begins to advance the timer. If the machine is not heating, it won't advance the timer in the auto dry cycles as the criteria for advancement of the timer are not being met. The timed dry cycle ignores the temperature level and advances for a set number of minutes no matter what the temperature in the dryer reaches.


I would check the thermostats for continuity as well as the element. It's possible that the venting is clogged with lint. When that happens, the dryer can overheat and that will trip the overheat thermostat which stops the element from being able to heat. Checking and cleaning the lint filter is not enough, the vent lines from the inside of the dryer to the exterior vent port on the outside of your house should be checked at least once a year and cleaned out. It could also be due to wax build up on the lint filter due to extended use of dryer sheets or fabric softener. Wash the lint filter with dish soap and a soft brush. In either case, the thermostats would still need to be replaced. The heating element will be on the more expensive side whereas the thermostats are very cheap.

Post# 512001 , Reply# 4   4/17/2011 at 19:02 (4,837 days old) by wnlewis (122 East First Street Newton Kansas 67114)        

OK. Let me just bullet point what you have recommended.
Pull the dryer away from the wall. Check the exhaust tube and any ductwork in the dryer to make sure the ductwork and tubes are not plugged. Unplug them (clean for lint and wax build up) and try again.
If the dryer continues to fail to heat, locate, check and replace the thermostats as needed. I would assume they have a high open temperature thermocouple. So, a switch that tests with infinite resistance at room temperature is probably bad. One that opens and closes in the desired range is good.
If both temperature switches prove to be good, then check the heating element for continuity and resistance. Since I do not know those values for this element, I will have to look it up.

This is probably not a job for today. I am guessing that next weekend will probably be a good time to start the project.

Thanks for the help.


Post# 512003 , Reply# 5   4/17/2011 at 19:07 (4,837 days old) by Pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture

I'm not saying that cleaning the venting and lint filter will fix the problem. If they are clogged and they've tripped the thermostats, the thermostats will still need to be replaced. However, if that's why the thermostats were tripped, they'll need to be cleaned in order to prevent the new thermostats from tripping right away causing the same problem.

Post# 512026 , Reply# 6   4/17/2011 at 20:47 (4,837 days old) by wnlewis (122 East First Street Newton Kansas 67114)        

The thermostats are not a fail safe sort of device are they?

My own understanding of control systems is that a thermostat is supposed to turn something on and off, unless is is like a fuse which fails when overloaded.

What is the nature of the thermostats?



Post# 512031 , Reply# 7   4/17/2011 at 20:56 (4,837 days old) by Pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture

There are two kinds of thermostats at work here:


The first is for normal cycling on and off of the element to maintain temperature in the drum, it's possible that there is something wrong with this one causing it to never turn the element on.


The second is an overheat thermostat, this one is like a fuse, if they dryer gets too hot then there is likely an issue with clogging or some other problem that makes the dryer not safe to run with the element. If this one is tripped, the element will not be allowed to come on at all until the thermostat or "fuse" if you will, is replaced. The reason they do this is to force one to open up the dryer to look for other issues that caused the overheat to prevent fires.

Post# 512038 , Reply# 8   4/17/2011 at 21:05 (4,837 days old) by wnlewis (122 East First Street Newton Kansas 67114)        


That makes excellent sense! One is a control mechanism. The other is an over limit device for safety. So, the control mechanism could still be good even if the over limit device has failed.

Are the two usually in the same general area or would they be in different locations?


Neal Lewis

Post# 512043 , Reply# 9   4/17/2011 at 21:12 (4,837 days old) by Pulsator (Saint Joseph, MI)        

pulsator's profile picture

They are usually located right next to each other. It's very possible the temp regulating one is just fine and the overload thermostat is blown. This happened to my dad's dryer recently when my sister didn't change the lint trap for 5 consecutive loads.


The general location is usually somewhere on the blower housing.


Hope this helps!

Post# 512048 , Reply# 10   4/17/2011 at 21:36 (4,837 days old) by wnlewis (122 East First Street Newton Kansas 67114)        

Yes it does.

I checked the part prices. The over limit switch runs about $10 and a new heating element runs about $97. So the repairs don't look too expensive.

Thanks to all you guys. My wife is very happy!

Neal Lewis

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