Thread Number: 346
Bendix 911-HELP!!
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Post# 47577   10/21/2004 at 21:55 (7,122 days old) by westytoploader ()        

Well, after I changed out the connectors, the Bendix has a new water valve. The old brass valve had a short that could not be fixed, and it wouldn't fill at all. I took some pictures of the wiring diagram since it was stuck to the back panel. It didn't say specifically on the diagram or new valves how they were wired, so I tried a number of different patterns to get it to work. The HOT solenoid energized, finally, with the selector switch on the HOT setting, however, on the WARM setting, it shuts off, and, the cold solenoid doesn't energize at all. This wouldn't be a major problem right now, except...

1. The water valve doesn't operate at all on SOAK or RINSE, no matter what position the selector switch is in.

2. I just found out that one of the wires on the water valve connects to the spin shifter solenoid, which is causing THAT not to operate. I tried it with the drain valve wires and it works fine. As a sidenote, I'm still going to replace them to make the Bendix last another 57 years. Grainger sells Philco-Bendix U-mount solenoids, and my dad's company holds an account with them, which is great.

3. The machine washes/drains normally, so I really don't understand what the problem is. I have a multimeter and I know about the Ohm setting, however, I need to know if the wires are in the correct position.

So Bendix owners, what seems to be the problem? I took some pictures (some better than others; really don't do the machine justice; especially the flash effect on the light surface rust) of how the water valve and spin solenoid are wired. Let me know if I need to change the order of something.

Also, does anyone have a spare soap door seal that I could buy from them, or know where I could find one? The old seal was cracked and brittle, and I haven't seen one on eBay. If you do, please email me at westytoploader@yahoo.com.

Throw in some suggestions as to what I might be doing wrong.

Thanks,
Austin


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Post# 47581 , Reply# 1   10/21/2004 at 23:16 (7,122 days old) by Unimatic1140 (Minneapolis)        

unimatic1140's profile picture
Austin it sounds like the neutral line going to the cold water solenoid has a break it its connection.

Its late, but I'm pretty sure like most machines of this vintage the original water valve was a hot & warm solenoid valve, not a hot & cold solenoid valve. In the Soak and Rinse positions the timer calls for warm water which would energize the warm solenoid only, at no point does the washer ever energize both water valve solenoids at the same time. If there is a break in that connection, it cannot energize the warm solenoid and you will get no water flowing.

I'm guessing its the neutral line to that solenoid if you say you switched the wires and tried them on the drain solenoid (very good to hear, that's a nice safe way for you to test them).

There is also a chance that you have a burned out solenoid on your new water valve. Try switching the wires from the hot solenoid and see it the other solenoid comes on.

Keep us posted, let us know what you find out.


Post# 47586 , Reply# 2   10/22/2004 at 05:18 (7,121 days old) by kenmore1978 ()        
water valve

Can you take a pic of the wiring diagram?

Also, if, like Robert says, the old valve was a "hot and warm" valve, then you will no longer be able to get warm water with the new valve, since the "warm" solenoid is now the "cold" solenoid. I suppose with some diodes you could wire it so that it can energize both solenoids when warm water is called for. Maybe sombody would figure that out if wiring diagram is scrutinized?


Post# 47600 , Reply# 3   10/22/2004 at 08:44 (7,121 days old) by westytoploader ()        

Well, considering all this, I might just go ahead and change the entire electrical system out slowly, piece by piece, to avoid anything worse in the future (and for future owners as well). The old wiring has become very brittle and it wouldn't be a bad idea to replace it. I have some stud-type connectors that match this machine (which is how I attached the replacement cord). So for this, what type of wiring should I use, and where can I buy it? Also, what would be a good substitute for the black/red-spotted wiring; this probably isn't made anymore...

Yes, it's possible that the neutral line is bad, causing the cold and spin shifter solenoid not to energize when connected properly. Robert, good idea; I'll try the hot solenoid tonight with the cold solenoid wires. And yes, just because the water valve is new doesn't mean it's in perfect working order.

I'll post pictures of the wiring diagram ASAP.

--Austin


Post# 47607 , Reply# 4   10/22/2004 at 11:29 (7,121 days old) by fixerman ()        

It would be VERY rare a new water valve is faulty. Double check to be sure it isn't that but the problem is probably in the wiring or the temp control switch itself.

Post# 47620 , Reply# 5   10/22/2004 at 17:29 (7,121 days old) by westytoploader ()        

The COLD solenoid came to life when I reversed the wires, but shut off like the HOT side when I flipped the selector switch. Still can't get it to work during SOAK or RINSE. For you Bendix owners with aftermarket 4-connector water valves, what is the wiring order? Right now I have it at (left to right...hose connection facing outward like it should) YELLOW, BLUE/RED (this one comes from the selector switch and working float shutoff switch), GREEN, BLUE/RED (this wire goes directly to the spin solenoid).

Is this right?

--Austin



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