Thread Number: 35161
Rusty 1-18, Home made case??? |
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Post# 525932   6/20/2011 at 22:30 (4,693 days old) by fltcoils (South Bend, Indiana)   |   | |
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In Thread Number: 34465 Kenny/goatfarmer had a rusty dented 1-18. Things worked out that I picked it up sunday (Kenny and I both live here in South Bend) |
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Post# 525959 , Reply# 5   6/21/2011 at 00:34 (4,692 days old) by alr2903 (TN)   |   | |
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Maybe you could try some metal and machine screws on the inside of the panels and kind of "splint" the cabinet, is the front panel rusted through, or is the pic the front? alr2903 |
Post# 525983 , Reply# 6   6/21/2011 at 06:50 (4,692 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Try it out to see whats wrong with it, I wouldn't do anything to it until you know whats wrong. Why do you think there is a problem with the bellows? 1-18 bellows were very rugged and usually outlasted the machine. If you want a wood washer install the wood over the rusted metal after a little priming etc Good Luck with your new toy. |
Post# 526081 , Reply# 7   6/21/2011 at 16:23 (4,692 days old) by searsbest (Attleboro, Ma)   |   | |
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Post# 526139 , Reply# 8   6/21/2011 at 21:53 (4,692 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)   |   | |
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It's somewhat unrelated, but I've toyed with the idea of making a new cabinet for a Kenmore Belt Drive I've got. The cabinet is very rusty and has a big tear in the side. I've toyed with the idea of having a metal box welded together with corner bracing to replicate the structural integrity of the cabinet, with proper attaching points for the suspension rods and top. I'd see about replaceable plexiglass panels for the front and sides, and covers for the corners. I'd also light the underside of the machine to see all the moving parts. It's not something I'll get around to for quite a long time, likely several years, but it's something I think might be fun.
Interesting idea that's likely very difficult in practice and largely unnecessary, Dave |
Post# 526190 , Reply# 9   6/22/2011 at 07:22 (4,691 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Dave wouldn't it be much easier to just take a good non rusty cabinet and cut out nice large windows in it. You could weld in some angle iron reinforcements where necessary and add plexi-glass windows and lights. Hundreds of BD washers are being crushed every week so a rust free cabinets are plentiful. This would be much better looking and more satisfactory than trying to reinvent the wheel, though I do admire your ambition but your poor parents you must have given them fits LOL. |
Post# 526191 , Reply# 10   6/22/2011 at 07:54 (4,691 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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Post# 526203 , Reply# 11   6/22/2011 at 09:00 (4,691 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 526270 , Reply# 14   6/22/2011 at 14:37 (4,691 days old) by beekeyknee (Columbia, MO)   |   | |
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Grind down the corroded and rusty cabinet with different size steal brushes on a drill and then replace missing metal by cutting out tin to fit. Then use POR 15 starter kit to coat cabinet and replacement pieces. Glue on pieces with JB Weld and machine JB and new metal to fit machine. If you scratch through JB or POR 15, reapply JB or POR. If you go through the POR you will have to use the metal prep before recoating with the POR or you will have to use the Marine Clean and then the metal prep before reapplying the POR sealer if you touch the bare metal with your fingers. The oil from you fingers will cause the POR sealer not to adhere. The JB and POR should probably be compatible, if you allow both to dry completely before applying the different layers. It might be a tedious and time consuming process, depending on the damage.
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Post# 526289 , Reply# 15   6/22/2011 at 17:02 (4,691 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 526327 , Reply# 17   6/22/2011 at 19:48 (4,691 days old) by cfz2882 (Belle Fourche,SD)   |   | |
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a see through washer cabinet is a cool idea-i have an '80 KM"70" stashed away that is a little beat up and needs a few mechanical repairs-i could get it working,cut out a veiwing window for the mechanism and add a couple slim florescent lights for illumination... |
Post# 526540 , Reply# 20   6/23/2011 at 18:14 (4,690 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 526567 , Reply# 21   6/23/2011 at 21:37 (4,690 days old) by fltcoils (South Bend, Indiana)   |   | |
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How does the 1-18 clutch / brake differ from the rollermatic? I've downloaded the rollermatic tech-talk from here, but I wonder how that relates to the 1-18. |
Post# 526610 , Reply# 22   6/24/2011 at 06:18 (4,689 days old) by joelippard (Hickory)   |   | |
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Post# 527864 , Reply# 23   6/30/2011 at 13:24 (4,683 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati)   |   | |
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as those on the rollermatics. i bought a bunch off larry in parma 2 years ago, used some on my rollermatics, used 2 nore when i put my 1-18 back together last summer. exactly the same.
glad you got that 1-18. i was gonna drive up and get it myself then changed my mind as i already have one that works great. no new stuff for me!!!!! i'm done collecting! have fun with it. |