Thread Number: 37017
Miele 3033 or top-end Electrolux or Samsung |
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Post# 550586 , Reply# 1   10/19/2011 at 22:52 (4,426 days old) by dougpark714 ()   |   | |
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Also, does anyone know if the Miele Supertronic is coming to the USA market? |
Post# 550608 , Reply# 2   10/20/2011 at 00:52 (4,426 days old) by laundromat (Hilo, Hawaii)   |   | |
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I have a Miele Touchtronic and it has a quick cycle (30 minutes)that has a wash and two rinses. I also have an LG (IN RED!!) I got brand new and it too has a quick cycle (35 minutes) that also has a wash(you can increase the wash time if need be)and two rinses. They both do a great job in that short a time and are the more common cycles I use. I also use the rinse and spin on my Miele which gives two deep, deep rinses in 20 minutes. I throw the detergent cap in and fill the fab soft disp. that gives me a 4 minute quick wash and a 4 minute deep rinse then a full 1400 rpm spin.I use that for towels and lightly soiled clothes like a dress shirt.I also HAD a Frigidaire Affinity with a quick wash and it too (like the Electrolux, it's twin) has a nice one but gives 3 full rinses instead of one or two.My Miele is my favorite.Fun to watch and gets my clothes real clean and well spun out.I'm still trying to get the interior light to stay on throughout the cycle.The F's and the E'luxes have a 3 minute time on their interior lights.
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Post# 550704 , Reply# 3   10/20/2011 at 11:24 (4,426 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
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Post# 551187 , Reply# 4   10/22/2011 at 03:13 (4,424 days old) by MatthewZA (Cape Town, South Africa)   |   | |
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wave touch because they're HUGE and in my opinion, super cool |
Post# 551290 , Reply# 5   10/22/2011 at 16:20 (4,424 days old) by whirlykenmore78 ![]() |
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Post# 551314 , Reply# 7   10/22/2011 at 19:41 (4,424 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
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Post# 551453 , Reply# 11   10/23/2011 at 20:42 (4,422 days old) by ronhic (Canberra, Australia)   |   | |
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Post# 551454 , Reply# 12   10/23/2011 at 20:49 (4,422 days old) by Launderess ![]() |
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Am here to tell you that once our Miele washer reaches the set temp the heater shuts off and rarely kicks in again, even on long "normal" cycles.
The only time one has found this not to be true is when either one has stopped the machine (such as for runnng out on an errand), or a long soak cycle. In the first case the heater *may* kick on again depending upon how long it was sat sitting (and even there have found not very often), and the latter still more of the same. |
Post# 551478 , Reply# 13   10/24/2011 at 00:42 (4,422 days old) by johnd (Oakland, CA)   |   | |
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Dougpark,
I would seriously consider adding a subfloor and somehow isolating the laundry area from any joists running through horizontal support beams. I have had a Miele W1926 in the 2nd floor laundry of my home for years. The machine is an excellent performer, but I must be honest... when it spins, the entire floor vibrates. I intend to somehow resolve that in a remodel, but if I were building anew, I would find some way to isolate the laundry area so that you don't have to ever worry about the vibration issue. |
Post# 551723 , Reply# 16   10/25/2011 at 02:00 (4,421 days old) by johnd (Oakland, CA)   |   | |
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sounds like a good idea to me. If the budget allows, I would go for a larger capacity Miele. You will have good performance for years and years, so cost averaging may make it worth it in the long run. Don't forget a floor drain, especially if you put in a concrete pad. Good luck, let us know how it turns out.
John. |
Post# 552310 , Reply# 18   10/27/2011 at 17:21 (4,419 days old) by dougpark714 ()   |   | |
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Thx, yes, noise is an important factor for us. We may need to also consider Asko -- 70db at full spin. Asko also seems more stable. But I doubt Asko is as reliable as Miele. |
Post# 554839 , Reply# 21   11/7/2011 at 16:34 (4,408 days old) by ronhic (Canberra, Australia)   |   | |
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![]() That is a fair comment, but subject to change at the moment.
The for-runner to the ASKO name was ASEA Cylinda (from 1978) and ASKO is still sold under the Cylinda name in Sweden. ASEA machines were about as close to Miele reliability as you could care to find and then, the firm was sold to ASKO in 1988 and then to Antonio Merloni in Italy in 2000. Quality did drop and has taken an age to start to climb back.
Now, ASKO was sold to Gorenje in July 2010.
Gorenje make significiantly better quality appliances to start with when compared to anything Antonio Merloni have made and I would fully expect ASKO to become Gorenje's international flagship brand with a return to overall quality similar to Miele. In fact, I'd suggest that if you look at a 5 year old ASKO and a new one, you'll see the difference straight away.
Let's not forget that reliability is not generally based on current models, but experiences that people have had with machines that can be quite aged and if a brand has been sold, then you can't rely on anything you've read....what you can rely on here is that ASKO's new owner makes better appliances than it's former owner....just about any European on here will confirm it....and Gorenje will not want it's reputation tarnished by poor quality. |
Post# 554938 , Reply# 22   11/7/2011 at 23:00 (4,407 days old) by aaronfitzy (Pennsylvania)   |   | |
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Post# 555103 , Reply# 24   11/8/2011 at 14:13 (4,407 days old) by ronhic (Canberra, Australia)   |   | |
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![]() It's quite interesting the differences that countries have with appliance reliability and support.
My mother had her ASEA (ASKO fore runner) from 1989 until 2009 - 20 years and ASEA as a brand had been available on our market for several years before that. During that time the machine had 2 service calls. One was to sort out the door latch as it become disconnected and another was for a timer problem as it wasn't advancing smoothly.
Neither had caused the machine to stop and only the timer had caused any form of delay. I've just been told 'about a week' on the phone. It would seem our spares and servicing is faster.
The only thing that prevented her buying another was money. I bought the ASEA for her and now that they've both retired, they couldn't justify $1400, which, I may add was only a fraction more than I paid 20 years earlier.
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Post# 555136 , Reply# 25   11/8/2011 at 16:50 (4,407 days old) by dougpark714 ()   |   | |
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Does anyone know why Miele does not bring their more higher end washers to the us? The specs on the supertonic 5000 series looks awesome. See link below CLICK HERE TO GO TO dougpark714's LINK |
Post# 555139 , Reply# 26   11/8/2011 at 16:52 (4,407 days old) by dougpark714 ()   |   | |
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Sorry, wrong link in last post. Correct link below CLICK HERE TO GO TO dougpark714's LINK |
Post# 555200 , Reply# 27   11/8/2011 at 18:51 (4,407 days old) by Launderess ![]() |
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Post# 555257 , Reply# 28   11/8/2011 at 21:41 (4,406 days old) by ronhic (Canberra, Australia)   |   | |
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Post# 555446 , Reply# 30   11/9/2011 at 17:25 (4,406 days old) by Launderess ![]() |
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Than 220v? I mean if a properly trained person does the installation and all other precautions are observed both should be equal.
I say the American system is "backwards" because for many applications it is not the most efficient electircal system. There is a reason one rarely finds commercial laundry equipment even without heaters that run on pure 120v power. Regarding cost of Miele's front loaders, historically H-Axis washers have always cost more than top loaders. More still if one does the thing properly and builds a machine to last. Much of the cost difference is due to the design nature. A front loader not only has to keep water inside the tub, but remain quite stable upon spinning heavy wet laundry. In Europe and elsewhere that markets are dominated by front loaders costs can come down a bit as there isn't the competition from top loaders (with central agitators). Even the most inexpensive commercial front loader will cost more than the highest priced domestic unit. However again those machines are built to give years of service. |
Post# 555563 , Reply# 31   11/10/2011 at 00:35 (4,405 days old) by tolivac ![]() |
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Note:More people are electrocuted on 120V than 220V or other voltages. |
Post# 557501 , Reply# 35   11/18/2011 at 04:33 (4,397 days old) by Launderess ![]() |
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To my knowledge was and or is used on BOL and lower end front loaders sold on the otherside of the pond. Better quality and top shelf units have stainless steel outer and inner drums, well they used to at least.
We once had a Malber unit built by one of the Merloni brothers companies and it had enameled steel outer tub. Glaron K is fiberglass and one is told it is also used for hulls on very expensive yachts. |
Post# 557503 , Reply# 36   11/18/2011 at 05:15 (4,397 days old) by foraloysius ![]() |
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Launderess is right. A lot of European frontloaders had porcelain coated steel outer drums. Even Miele's had them for quite a while. Later stainless steel outer drums became the norm. That was until some manufacturers changed to the Carboran outer drums. I have never seen a plain steel outer drum on a European frontloader. And I have never seen a European frontloader that didn't have a stainless steel inner drum apart from a machine that came with a removable, plastic drum (I forgot the name).
In Western Europe (not the UK) the voltage is 230 Volts and the regular amps is 16. I only have 16 amps fuses. So 230 x 16 makes 3680 Watts. Washers are relatively cheap in the Netherlands. Besides that we are one of Germany's biggest tradespartner. A BOL Miele (W1712) costs 799 euros overhere (around 1080 American dollars). |
Post# 557951 , Reply# 37   11/20/2011 at 02:48 (4,395 days old) by qualin (Canada)   |   | |
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OK, but from a Hygenic and durability perspective, is porcelain coated steel or stainless steel better than Glaron, or is it equal? If a salesperson could have told me the difference, I may have bought a Miele W4842 instead of my Huebsch ZFN50R. |
Post# 561008 , Reply# 40   12/3/2011 at 15:42 (4,382 days old) by nmassman44 (Brooksville Florida)   |   | |
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Rut roh! My Maytag Samsung built Neptune gave me that error code and its something to do with the heater in the sump not responding. In fact they were recalled because of a fire hazard and Maytag sent me the solution...a plug in circuit breaker that plugs into the outlet and the washer plugs into that. How I got it to work was to unplug the beast and wait for a couple of mins to reset the control and it should work.
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Post# 561009 , Reply# 41   12/3/2011 at 16:01 (4,382 days old) by mikepaquette ()   |   | |
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Thank you It has been unpluged for over a weel and the same code comes up. Thank you , Mike |
Post# 561030 , Reply# 42   12/3/2011 at 19:01 (4,382 days old) by nmassman44 (Brooksville Florida)   |   | |
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