Thread Number: 37482
Hoover Ecologic washer dryer 1300 |
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Post# 557276 , Reply# 1   11/17/2011 at 13:51 (4,689 days old) by ozzie908 (Lincoln UK)   |   | |
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Post# 557300 , Reply# 3   11/17/2011 at 14:51 (4,689 days old) by ariston4life ((Dublin) Ireland)   |   | |
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Post# 557433 , Reply# 6   11/17/2011 at 22:15 (4,688 days old) by ozzie908 (Lincoln UK)   |   | |
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Rolls beat me to the description which is cool as saved my fingers lol.!
Try removing the tube off the pressure switch be careful not to snap the neck off and blow down it ! If you cannot do so then there is a blockage that you have to fix if you can blow down it easily its another problem. Let us know how it goes we can and will help all we can.:) Austin |
Post# 557597 , Reply# 8   11/18/2011 at 13:04 (4,688 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Well i would have totally agreed with the suggestions about the pressure bottle, this is a common fault on old Hoover machines now what about a sticky water inlet valve. Do you have hot and cold fill connected?, when the machine is filling if you have the top off you should be able to hear the water inlet valves buzzing/humming, you will also hear the water level switch click when it reaches the required level of water, if this happens switch the machine off and see if it stops filling,, if it doent stop filling then you have a sticky inlet valve. Thats my suggestion for the next place to look Gary |
Post# 557834 , Reply# 10   11/19/2011 at 13:02 (4,687 days old) by andyg ()   |   | |
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Hi All, Does anyone have any comments please on post 9 above re water inlet valves? Could it be the programmer after all and if so does anyone know how I fit that per my post 1? Thanks once again, Andy |
Post# 557953 , Reply# 11   11/20/2011 at 02:49 (4,686 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Andy if you want to take out the programmer, i can vaguely remember how to do it, you will need a long cross head screw driver preferebly magnetized.
As far as i recall there are only 3 screws holding the entire assembly on. The programmer is mounted on a metal bracket. there is one screw on the top of this, and if you look to the bottom left and right of it you should see a screw down there, if you remove these as well the whole assembly should come away, I think the time line mechansim stays in place so dont move it, make sure the programmer is in a "stop" postiion other wise you will have to take off and re-align the time line dipslay Let me know if this matches your machine If not take some pictures Gary |
Post# 558704 , Reply# 13   11/23/2011 at 07:54 (4,683 days old) by andyg ()   |   | |
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Hi All, Metal plate now successfully removed from old timer. I'll report on the operation of the new timer and the machine later. Regards, Andy |
Post# 558978 , Reply# 15   11/24/2011 at 14:44 (4,682 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Hello andy
Have a look at each connector and see if the pins match the pins on the programmer, I see some are not there this may help, you might find that one connector only has 3 pins missing and this will go with the programmer connector strip with the same 3 pins missing, dont go swapping them around for the sake of it you could do some damage. Fianlly give me the model number of the machine and the timer and i will see if i have a wiring diagram for it. Gary |
Post# 559300 , Reply# 18   11/26/2011 at 05:53 (4,680 days old) by andyg ()   |   | |
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James Nice to hear from you. One photo here, I have more but have to attach singularly. Andy PS. I do pray someone can help me with the wiring issue ! |
Post# 559988 , Reply# 19   11/28/2011 at 18:13 (4,677 days old) by andyg ()   |   | |
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Hi Gary, Thx for the offer of help to see if you had a wiring diagram; any joy sir - I need to do some washing!! regards, Andy |
Post# 560379 , Reply# 20   11/30/2011 at 11:39 (4,676 days old) by andyg ()   |   | |
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Hi All, Does anyone have any ideas on the wiring of the timer please? From one really grateful, Andy on St Andrews day. |
Post# 560801 , Reply# 23   12/2/2011 at 09:16 (4,674 days old) by ozzie908 (Lincoln UK)   |   | |
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Post# 560940 , Reply# 25   12/3/2011 at 11:14 (4,673 days old) by electron1100 (England)   |   | |
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Hello Andy
I have sent a scan to the email address you have on here of the wiring diagram for the timer you have in your machine, this timer it would appear was fitted to various machines of that type. It might take you a while to get to grips with it but it might help. with regards to re-fitting the old timer to see if the programmer constantly rotating problem goes away why not, go ahead. one other question, when you were looking at the water pressure bottle did you blow into the rubber tube that goes up to the water level/pressure switch, if you blow into it you should hear two clicks from the level/pressure switch these being the two pre-set water level switches inside the level/pressure switch, if you hold the air in tube as long as you can to see if the air is leaking out, it is just another thought, if the switch was faulty or the air seal on it, or the tube was leaking this again would cause the problem you have. Gary |