Thread Number: 39151
Speed queen/Huesbch washers new water level |
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Post# 580391   3/4/2012 at 22:14 (4,435 days old) by norgechef (Saint George New Brunswick )   |   | |
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Exactly how low is is the new water level on the speed queen/Huesbch machines? like can you still wash a large load in it without having to tweak the water level swtich because if so then im just going to get the performa fixed..... |
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Post# 580397 , Reply# 1   3/4/2012 at 22:52 (4,435 days old) by danmantn (Tennessee)   |   | |
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Post# 580407 , Reply# 2   3/4/2012 at 23:42 (4,435 days old) by norgechef (Saint George New Brunswick )   |   | |
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How long do speed queen/Huebsch washers usually last? i do about 6-8 occasionally medium usually large loads a week but i do not overload my machines.......... |
Post# 580417 , Reply# 3   3/5/2012 at 02:41 (4,435 days old) by qualin (Canada)   |   | |
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I believe they're supposed to be rated for 25,000 cycles. From what I understand, it's fairly easy to tweak the water level in both the top and front loading machines. I haven't tried myself, but I've been tempted to. :) |
Post# 580427 , Reply# 4   3/5/2012 at 05:07 (4,435 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California)   |   | |
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On older top loader machines I think it is fairly simple: simply raise or lower the tube connected to the pressure sensor water cutoff switch. However it's my impression that newer machines make it more difficult, with the pressure sensor at the bottom of the tub with no easy way to access it or change its setting.
Never had any cause to try to change it on the Neptune 7500. The Mieles have various button and default settings to change water level. I did change it once on the GE filter flo top loader. I think I raised it up too high because then the washer started flooding the laundry closet. I never got around to fixing it because the Neptune took its place shortly thereafter. The pressure switch (or "dome") on the GE is just a sensor attached to an air tube connected to the bottom of the outer tub. It's easily accessed from the top of the washer, as I recall. |
Post# 580441 , Reply# 5   3/5/2012 at 07:29 (4,435 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Have only been reduced 2-4" from what they once were. Of the more than 50 SQ TL washers that we sold last year we didn't turn any up and their have been no complaints from the owners. That said it is fairly easy to adjust the water level switch in the control panel. And no doing so will not void the complete washers warranty unless you cause the problem.
Life of a SQ TLer ? They are rugged machines, SQ makes the 25,000 load claim for their Front Load washers not their TL machines. But I would normally expect a SQ TL to last at least 10 years of heavy use and in some cases with lighter use 2 or 3 times that. Doing a lot of light loads in any washer will shorten its life more than doing doing less maximum loads. It is normally the shear number of loads plus time that determine when things will wear out or simply fail. Remember these washers were designed to be used in commercial use where they are almost always overloaded and they still usually last over ten years with this heavy use.
The majority of the parts of a washing machine wear every time the machine is run including, the water valve, timer, water pump the motor, oil seals, main water seals, various electrical switches and even the lid hinges on the washers lid. None of these parts wear any faster if the washer has a big load in it as opposed to a small load, yet every part of any mechanical device will only last for so many uses. |
Post# 580690 , Reply# 6   3/6/2012 at 01:39 (4,434 days old) by qualin (Canada)   |   | |
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Will changing the water level on a SQ Front Loader void the warranty? I get the feeling that it would. |
Post# 580734 , Reply# 7   3/6/2012 at 07:42 (4,434 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Basically they would have to show that you caused a problem, yes if the WLS goes bad after you adjust it or the machine starts flooding you may have an issue. But first of all how are they even going to know that you adjusted it?. It is your washer, think of it like a new car where you can change the tires and wheels, put in a different sound system etc. and if you screw it up part of the warranty may be voided but not the entire product. |
Post# 580890 , Reply# 8   3/6/2012 at 19:39 (4,433 days old) by neptunebob (Pittsburgh, PA)   |   | |
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Well I am glad to hear Speed Queen machines are durable, but really it is not better to never overload a washing machine? It is true that all of the parts wear but things that wear if used more often, like switches and water valves are easily and less expensively replaced as they are not part of the main motor/transmission, the most expensive part of a washing machine. I just don't think overloading is a good idea for anything whether it be an elevator, a car, a school or a washing machine. Worrying about those parts is like worrying whether going to the gas station more often will wear out the gas gauge. So take it easy Combo, the world is not going to wear out if you load right. Oh and when you do take your Metamucil, be sure to drink a large glass of water afterwards.
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Post# 580983 , Reply# 10   3/7/2012 at 07:55 (4,433 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Hi Bob and everyone else, I did NOT suggest always overloading your AW, what I did suggest is that if your washer is rated for and holds 9 large bath towels and you constantly only wash 6 you are harming your machine far more than if you occasionally wash 10.
As most of you know I work on repairing and selling washers and dryers and have for many years. Every day I am consulting with customers as to how to solve their laundry appliance problems. One piece of information I always get is how large is your family and how many loads are washed and dried per week. It is always interesting that one family of four will only do say 3 or 4 loads per week and the next one will do more than ten loads per week and the latter will have far more problems with the washer and dryer. I have also found that the homes where their is a full time house keeper or full time stay at home house wife where everything is always immaculate have the most washer and dryer problems and the machines will be replaced years earlier.
What does go wrong with say a classic Dependable Care Maytag Washer?
If it was constantly overloaded I would expect to find, broken gears, broken or cracked agitator, inner tub broken loose at mounting point, maybe broken suspension parts?. I don't think that anyone here including myself have seen any of these possible problems on a MT DC washer.
What really does go wrong with a MT DC Washer?
Timers, inlet valves, Main motor { bearings and centrifugal switches ], water pump [ rarely ], center seal, oil leaks from bottom transmission seal, sticking and on older machines broken motor rollers, Leaky fill inlet air-gap, leaks from various hoses and occasional bad WLS or lid or program switches. Yes Bob some of these problems are fixed fairly easily, BUT any repair call today costs $100-200 and most people will only do this a few times before the washer is out the door and scrapped.
All of these failures are far more likely the more you use the washer and NONE of them are affected by heavy loading. Doing a 2nd rinse will also greatly shorten the life of any washer, yes it is fun and sometimes necessary, but you are not doing it for the washers benefit. If fact the two of the worst problems that a MT DC washer can have [ oil leaks at the lower transmission seal and loose snubber pads always seem to happen to the lightly loaded machines that are run a lot ]. In a spin drain machine there is a lot more vibration and wear on things like the snubber pads as a light load is far more likely to be out of balance than a proper full load.
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Post# 581111 , Reply# 11   3/7/2012 at 20:03 (4,432 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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The shop I worked at as a teen, I was always informed by my boss and the other workers, as JohnL constantly repeats himself to others, using machines with smaller loads and such will kill a machine earlier than a machine that is runned with Full loads......and this has been proven over and over....
as much as I hated my Mother's GE FF V-12.....one cycle, 2 water temps/levels.....she would never run a load back to back, never half loads, and never without that filter pan in place.........damn thing would never break down, in hopes of a new one with many options and buttons....this thing finally got shoved out of the way after 20 years old...and 7 kids...nothing wrong with it....I finally talked her into a newer Whirlpool.... |
Post# 581276 , Reply# 13   3/8/2012 at 22:41 (4,431 days old) by neptunebob (Pittsburgh, PA)   |   | |
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With all this talk about everything in the world wearing out I guess all of us here (Combo, Qualin, myself and Norgechef you can join us too) are going to have to switch to Citrucel because the grit from Metamucil is going to wear out the spoon. This post was last edited 03/08/2012 at 23:29 |
Post# 581329 , Reply# 14   3/9/2012 at 06:06 (4,431 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
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Post# 581642 , Reply# 18   3/10/2012 at 23:23 (4,429 days old) by qualin (Canada)   |   | |
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Well, if it'll cost more to fix it than what that washer is worth, better to put the cash towards something you really want I guess. :) We're waaaaay off topic now... |
Post# 581731 , Reply# 19   3/11/2012 at 15:12 (4,428 days old) by norgechef (Saint George New Brunswick )   |   | |
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The set looks to be around 8 years old but the people say it was used by an elder couple for a few years and the current owners have had it for 2 years.....but the dryer will not heat anymore so if i got both could someone give me instructions on how to fix the heating element? |