Thread Number: 39187
1930's Magic Chef Gas Range repair
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Post# 580907   3/6/2012 at 20:53 (4,455 days old) by runabout ()        

I have a acquired Magic Chef. I believe it is from 1938.

It is missing a burner knob and part of the gas assembly that connects the missing knob to the gas things on the top of the stove.. sorry I don't know the correct language to use... so pics below.

Anyone know what the proper terms are for what I need to find and any suggestions on where to find them?

There is a little metal tip that is loose, not sure if it goes with the range or not, but it was inside the top area where the burner units are.

add'l pics below in comments





Post# 580909 , Reply# 1   3/6/2012 at 20:55 (4,455 days old) by runabout ()        
more pics

here is one view of the burner assembly that is missing the piece that connects it to the missing knob

Post# 580910 , Reply# 2   3/6/2012 at 20:56 (4,455 days old) by runabout ()        
another view of the burner

slightly different angle

Post# 580911 , Reply# 3   3/6/2012 at 20:57 (4,455 days old) by runabout ()        
and the loose tip thing

not sure if this is part of the burners or not...

Post# 580913 , Reply# 4   3/6/2012 at 21:08 (4,455 days old) by runabout ()        
this might help

a picture of the end of the burner that has a knob on it and appears to be 100% usable

Post# 580914 , Reply# 5   3/6/2012 at 21:09 (4,455 days old) by runabout ()        
the burner that is broke

this is what the one that does not have the knob or the connector piece looks like

Post# 580915 , Reply# 6   3/6/2012 at 21:17 (4,455 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c )        
DO NOT!!!

Turn on the gas yet!!! That thing is the orifice for that burner!!! if you turn it on with out that in place you will have a jet plane in your kitchen!!!

Post# 580919 , Reply# 7   3/6/2012 at 21:44 (4,455 days old) by henry200 ()        
That's a beautiful range!

I have a 1931 Magic Chef, bought for my previous house and awaiting a place to be put back into use again in this house.  I highly recommend you contact Jack Santorum at The Old Appliance Club.  That's been my go-to solution for old range issues for years.



CLICK HERE TO GO TO henry200's LINK

Post# 580922 , Reply# 8   3/6/2012 at 22:07 (4,455 days old) by runabout ()        
Thanks for the link!

Yes, she is and I believe I only paid $100 or maybe $125 for it...

I just hope I can get that one burner fixed!

Folks around here sell these old stoves cheap... back in SF they would cost a fortune!

I have sent that website an email with my photos.

Thanks for the connection.


Post# 580923 , Reply# 9   3/6/2012 at 22:28 (4,455 days old) by runabout ()        
I won't turn the gas on...

The original gas line to kitchen was disconnected and capped off in the basement, so I need to have the line extended back to the kitchen, but not doing that until the stove is fixed : )

but thanks for the heads up that it is dangerous as is!


Post# 581040 , Reply# 10   3/7/2012 at 13:01 (4,454 days old) by 58limited (Port Arthur, Texas)        

58limited's profile picture
Very nice stove. Keep an eye on ebay for a replacement knob.

It looks to me like you need the entire burner valve for that burner - in the picture it looks like it was broken. If he doesn't have a listing or part number, you might need to remove one of the other valves and send it to Jack Santorum to find a match. That nipple piece you found is the back part of the valve that slides into the burner unit.

I would also advise you to disassemble the valves, clean them, and regrease than with valve cream, Jack sells that too. A little goes a loooong way - the tub Jack sells will last your lifetime. If you don't want to pay the $20+ for a tub, e-mail me and I'll pass a little of mine along to you. I have enough to restore the 5 stoves I have and still have a bunch left.

Here is what a typical burner valve looks like These two are on my '52 Wizard stove, I just cleaned them and put them back onto the manifold loosely - I am going to repaint the manifold soon:


Post# 581091 , Reply# 11   3/7/2012 at 17:13 (4,454 days old) by runabout ()        
wow, thanks for that!

So how do I reach Mr. Santorum?

You have 5 stoves? I love these old stoves and am keeping an eye out for other local stoves that might be for sale around here, just in case something similar comes up.

It seems like the knobs and handles are very different on the different models even though they were made within years of each other...

thanks very much!


Post# 581097 , Reply# 12   3/7/2012 at 18:04 (4,454 days old) by 58limited (Port Arthur, Texas)        

58limited's profile picture
I actually have 4 stoves in my possession, but have a 5th coming later this year via a member of this forum.

Mr. Santorum can be reached at the link posted by henry200 above. He is the resource that I used when I restored my first stove, my 1950 O'Keefe & Merritt. I now deal directly with the porcelain shop and a place that rebuilds thermostats and safety valves.

Yes, the knobs are very different between models. I'm missing one from my Wizard and I am having a devil of a time finding a matching knob. I do have 4 different matching knobs that fit it but they don't really look good on it.



Post# 581185 , Reply# 13   3/8/2012 at 09:19 (4,453 days old) by runabout ()        
Thanks

Ah, I contacted Mr. Santorum's shop and they are unable to assist. I am now awaiting word from Unity Stove and now have more info on what I need... there are 2 small missing parts, the part the orifice fits on that screws onto the valve stem and then a round metal plate that the orifice fits through as it connects to the unit that the burners are attached too. sorry my lingo is lacking!

thanks much!

I can see how a body could become addicted to old appliances! They are so cool.


Post# 581206 , Reply# 14   3/8/2012 at 12:19 (4,453 days old) by 58limited (Port Arthur, Texas)        

58limited's profile picture
If you are talking about the burner valve stem (attached to the inner valve) as the part that is missing, in other words the only thing present is the outer housing, you need to replace the entire valve unit. They are machined to fit each other and over the years wear together, a new stem/valve will not fit correctly.

You should be able to find a generic universal and adjustable valve that will work.


Post# 581938 , Reply# 15   3/12/2012 at 13:49 (4,449 days old) by runabout ()        
yes, I believe it is the valve stem piece

good to know that I might just be able to buy a new one that will fit.



Post# 582504 , Reply# 16   3/14/2012 at 22:29 (4,447 days old) by abcomatic (Bradford, Illinois)        
hi 58 limited

HI Dave, I have a 30's Detroit Jewel that I use. I do have a question for you though. The knobs on the stove that are used to the turn the gas on are rather stiff to turn. What do I do to make them turn better? Thanks, Gary

Post# 582568 , Reply# 17   3/15/2012 at 07:12 (4,446 days old) by 58limited (Port Arthur, Texas)        
Gary

58limited's profile picture
Sounds like the valves need to be disassembled, cleaned, and regreased. I don't have any photos or illustrations showing how to do this or I'd post them.

Contact Jack Santorum and his staff at TOAC at the link above (posted by henry200) - TOAC sells the valve grease and will send a diagram showing how to redo the valves.


Post# 801620 , Reply# 18   12/30/2014 at 21:48 (3,426 days old) by viper1025 ()        
1930's Magic Chef Gas Stove

I see this thread is real old. But thought id see if any one is still around who knows these stoves. My wife just got one, almost identical to the one above. Hers also is missing a knob. And its missing the burner cover. But her stove only has one handle on the door on left and one on oven and the lower drawer. Seems to be in nice shape other wise.
I'm in search of those two missing pieces and if possible an owner or operator manual.
I was wondering too. Other then hooking up and turning gas on to check leaks. Is there another way. And whats the procedure of lighting pilots. Actually i have lived with the stoves since a child and im 61 years old. But the ones i did with self lighting burners require a oven pilot to be lit and at least one or two for burners. Am i missing any thing?
Paul



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