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Thread Number: 47481
frigidaire gallery washer needs a spider!!!!! |
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| Post# 689403 7/14/2013 at 19:34 (3,938 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
the main purpose of this thread is to post a few pics of a frigidaire gallery front load washer teardown and ask a question for anyone seeing this!
ANYONE KNOW WHERE TO FIND A SPIDER WITHOUT HAVING TO BUY THE COMPLETE SPIDER AND INNER TUB ASSEMBLY WHICH IS OVER 300 BUCKS!!!! i started a rebuild on my frigidaire gallery washer that i bought around 2000. i picked up another machine last week, only 6 years old for 50 bucks as a parts machine. It is in better shape overall than my old one! i found bearings/ seal kit on e bay for around 70 bucks. but after tearing the newer one down tonite i found small cracks in the spider. i have not gotten my old machine totally apart yet so don't know if my spider is ok or not. 
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| Post# 689408 , Reply# 1 7/14/2013 at 19:39 (3,938 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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here is the spider | ||
| Post# 689411 , Reply# 2 7/14/2013 at 19:41 (3,938 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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side view of | ||
| Post# 689413 , Reply# 3 7/14/2013 at 19:43 (3,938 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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top view of | ||
| Post# 689414 , Reply# 4 7/14/2013 at 19:44 (3,938 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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closeup of the | ||
| Post# 689419 , Reply# 5 7/14/2013 at 19:51 (3,938 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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it has a different water seal
than i thought. i was expecting a seal like the old westinghouse spacemates used, basically like a dishwasher seal turned sideways.
this one uses a rubber seal that slips over the shaft and seals against the shaft itself. here's the shaft and the sealing area is right at the bottom next to the spider. it looks like it is made of brass. 
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| Post# 689420 , Reply# 6 7/14/2013 at 19:53 (3,938 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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here's the back of the outer tub | ||
| Post# 689421 , Reply# 7 7/14/2013 at 19:55 (3,938 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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another pic of the outer tub | ||
| Post# 689422 , Reply# 8 7/14/2013 at 19:59 (3,938 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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this is the motor from my original | ||
| Post# 689423 , Reply# 9 7/14/2013 at 20:03 (3,938 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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closer view of this bad motor
gonna pitch it as the one i took off the newer machine is in great shape.
gonna take my time with these 2 machines that i hope to turn into one good machine. but if anyone has any info on where to get a spider please let me know! as usual thanks for lookin and appreciate any feedback you have!!!!!!! 
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| Post# 689424 , Reply# 10 7/14/2013 at 20:09 (3,938 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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onee thing i forgot to mention
i have not torn apart the tub on my older original machine yet but i am assuming the spider on mine will also have cracks in it. it is about 7 years older than this newer machine i took apart tonite.
if i'm gonna do all this work rebuilding this washer i love to use for daily loads (don't like to use my vintage machines that much) i really want to get a new spider on it! at least that's my goal. but i don't want to spend 300 or more on the whole assembly. we will see here! | ||
Post# 689498 , Reply# 11 7/15/2013 at 07:48 (3,937 days old) by combo52  (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Rebuilding a Newer Frigidaire Built FL Washer Hi Peter, I do not see any cracks in your replacement spider, it is either broken or not, the real question is the bronze seal area, how worn is it?.
The motor from the original Galley machine is still a DC brush type motor, FD changed to an 3 Phase A/C type motor in late 2000 so they are not interchangeable.
The water seals that these machines are very similar to what WH used on all their FL machines.
If you need a good used motor etc or have any questions call me, we have boxes of parts for these machines [ except good used spiders ] John | ||
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Post# 689513 , Reply# 12 7/15/2013 at 09:43 (3,937 days old) by kb0nes (Burnsville, MN) |
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Peter and John, is it possible that the lines that are being perceived as cracks are just a mold line from when the spider was made? The marks I see in the photo look too straight and uniform to be cracks.
I would polish the spider to see if the "cracks" disappear. If indeed the metal is broken it will penetrate the surface a ways. Polishing all the corrosion and scum off will let you see what you have. It was a common problem with racing motorcycle wheels to have cracks hidden by the paint, had to polish them to inspect. If one wanted to greatly extend the life of a spider the polishing followed by sending it out for shot peening would largely eliminate any cracking. Paint with a good epoxy paint (or powder coat) and it would last longer then the rest of the machine. | ||
| Post# 689556 , Reply# 13 7/15/2013 at 15:35 (3,937 days old) by tecnopolis (Ocala/Dunnellon, Florida 34481) | ||
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Post# 689615 , Reply# 14 7/15/2013 at 19:37 (3,937 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Broken Spiders on FL Washers Yes Phil I do think that the visible lines are just mold lines. I am not sure that power coating would do all that much good based on what I saw when pot metal and aluminum parts were common on washers back in the mid to late 60s. Several different manufactures tried different painted coatings on the inside of pumps to help extent their life, but we still saw badly corroded parts occurring and of course the real solution was to make such parts out of various different plastics which makes them last forever.
Frigidaire had far more broken spiders than most FL washers because they were so THIN on the small door machines. They improved them on the next generation of FL washers and I have yet to see one break. That said the one Peter pictured is not severely corroded and if cleaned up properly and if the machine is used properly it will likely NEVER fail. I have yet to see a broken spider on a FL washer that was a surprise once you take apart the machine and see the abuse it suffered at the hands of the owner. Cold water washing, too little and cheap detergent, no LCB used, and compounded by excessive use of fabric softener.
I have never seen any evidence of corrosion from the aluminum spider touching the SS tub. Almost every FL washer is made with these two parts touching and on MT Neptune's where they have thin nylon spacers they still suffer corroded and BROKEN spiders [ and MT had a very thick and sturdy spider on Neptune's ] | ||
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Post# 689911 , Reply# 16 7/16/2013 at 19:26 (3,936 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Noisey Frigidaire FL Washer Hi Doug, try it again in spin with nothing in it, if it sounds OK try another load, if it makes an awful noise with another load, remove the lower front panel and see if either shock is broken loose at either end. If not you likely have a broken spider, repairs using all new parts including labor could cost close to $900.00 or even more, although there are a few ways to reduce the cost.
While these were good washers if it needs this much work you might want to consider a new SQ FL Washer and if the cost of a new one is more than you want to spend we have a bunch of 4 year old machines we are selling for around 600.00 each. John | ||
| Post# 690050 , Reply# 18 7/17/2013 at 13:42 (3,935 days old) by frontloaderfan (Merrimac valley, MA) | ||
@ Rollermatic:
I may be wrong about this, seeing as how your machine is older than mine, but I recall that, during looking for replacement parts for my Frigidaire FL, which is a 2012 model, you can't buy just the spider. They want you to buy the entire inner tub assembly. Consider yourself lucky having found just the bearings and seal. Frigidaire and Searsparts does not sell them separately as far as I know. They want you to buy the entire rear tub assembly with the bearings already pressed in. I suppose you can get the bearings elsewhere. Yogitunes will be able to tell you what and where better than I ever could.
It is such a pity that the manufacturers tout themselves as making "eco-friendly" appliances because they use less water, but then build them to be thrown away after the warrantee runs out. | ||
| Post# 690052 , Reply# 19 7/17/2013 at 13:51 (3,935 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada) | ||
why repair your actual machine? | ||
| Post# 690158 , Reply# 20 7/17/2013 at 23:23 (3,934 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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thanks to all here!
the main reason i want to fix it is i like it's smaller capacity compared to the bigger front loaders!
seals and bearings are sold as a unit on e bay. the bronze seal area is fine on my shaft. and i agree after looking at it the spider isn't cracked after all. combo, thanks especially for your info as always! didn't know that about the motors. and i could have sworn when i had a westinghouse front loader and replaced bearings and seal in the 1990's that it's seal pressed up against the tub, not wrapping around the shaft like this one does. oh well. i did try to remove spider from tub but bolts are frozen and i broke off first one trying so i stopped. hopefully one broken bolt won't matter when i rebuild it. i was thinking of painting spider after i clean it up. was going to get it running this month but now car issues are here and i have to work on it so this washer will have to wait awhile. i should get it running for about 80 bucks in bearings and seal and 50 i paid for the machine. still have not taken my old one apart yet so don't how spider is on it. tub turns very smoothly (motor was frozed, not bearings) and no excessive play in inner tub so i assume spider is ok too! thanks again to all of you, i will keep looking to see if anyone else posts anything on this thread. and retropia, hope you get yours running too! these are great machines! what part of ohio are you in? i'm thinking columbus? | ||
| Post# 691894 , Reply# 21 7/25/2013 at 11:55 (3,927 days old) by retropia () | ||
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Peter, yes, I'm in Columbus. Alas, our worst fears were confirmed regarding the spider on ours. Fortunately, we did have a backup washing machine (doesn't everyone?) which I will post about in a separate thread. | ||
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Post# 692091 , Reply# 22 7/26/2013 at 13:51 (3,926 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH) |
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Parts! | ||
| Post# 693350 , Reply# 23 7/30/2013 at 23:00 (3,921 days old) by rollermatic (cincinnati) | ||
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thanks retropia and volvoguy
retropia, a bunch of my machines have come from the columbus area including my 1-18 washer and many kitchenaids. i scan the columbus craigslist often. used to live there myself when i was a student at O.S.U. and worked at cedar point in the 70's. sometimes wish i was still in columbus as it's only 2 hours from sandusky and lake erie and cedar point. not to mention my favorite haunt, the club columbus ha ha!
volvo, i used to go to pearsols all the time before computers and e bay for parts for washers and dishwashers i was working on. it was a hop skip and jump from norwood where i used to live. now here in goshen it's much further away but i will stop in and say hi sometime! i have put this front loader on hold for awhile but my spider is ok. and i know bearings are out there so i'm not too concerned as to finishing it real soon. i am using a portable whirlpool washer that i got from supremewhirlpool here on the site a few years ago, and a rollermatic occasionally to do my laundry. but i do love that front loader and will get it running again for sure. just bought an old 1981 chevette i am working like mad on so appliances are on hold for a bit! will post a thread of the gallery washer going back together when i do finsih it, probably this winter when it's too cold out to work on cars! take care, both of you! | ||
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Post# 696257 , Reply# 25 8/13/2013 at 15:19 (3,908 days old) by kb0nes (Burnsville, MN) |
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"Why is there a DC motor in a 60hz AC world? That mskes no sense at all and only seems to increase the complexity and decrase the reliablity of the machine in that it would need a DC power supply and all its sensitive rectifiers diodes and capacitors... "
David, The reason the engineers likely chose a DC motor on the earlier models is for reasons of speed, and directional control. A DC motor is easily controllable whereas a standard 60hz AC motor is much less so. So now to discuss reliability. Assuming we do need speed and directional control we could achieve it via electrical or mechanical means. I can say that doing it electrically is very likely to be more reliable in the long run and cheaper and far more versatile then using a mechanical transmission system. Its very likely more efficient also. The electronics have since evolved and now they are using polyphase AC motors along with a variable frequency solid state inverter drive. This gives even greater control with higher motor torque and no brushes to wear out. Electronics nay-sayers will complain of yet more complexity though, but solid state electronics are amazingly reliable if designed correctly. Looking at this problem in a similar but totally different light. The machine shop I manage just bought a new CNC lathe. It has NO mechanical transmission at all. Just a 25 horsepower motor and a belt to the spindle. The motor is driven by an huge variable frequency solid state inverter that allows it to run the spindle in either direction from a few hundred to a few thousand RPM with infinite control. It has full control of torque and braking also. All things a mechanical transmission can't do and in the long run we get better reliability and versatility, and I'd bet its cheaper and more efficient to boot! The dynamics of modern appliance design are driven by a lot of factors. Consumers crave more features, even if they aren't useful, and demand lower costs. This puts the manufacturers in a tough position. Add in the (necessary) goal of reducing energy and water consumption and we all get what we get. It would be wonderful if a manufacturer would build a 20 year machine chock full of features that was class leading in water/energy consumption, but alas sales would be pitiful and the company would go bankrupt. American consumers don't buy for quality and reliability on the whole, and its a damn shame! | ||
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