Welcome here! 

And congratulations for your find! I really like this model, the last 70" (or almost!) tall refrigerator from Frigidaire.

I have one just like it but with left hinge doors that doesn't work at the moment! (and I also have another one that works great but it's white/chrome rather than Turquoise). I see that your's had it's compressor replaced with a newer Frigidaire compressor, it seems nicely done! Can you tell me what's the HP rating of the compressor? 

Here is the SN plate on my Turquoise one:

Here's my other 1963, this one works perfectly.

I also have a white 14 Cu-Ft Imperial top freezer from 1963 that also works. 

BTW, both of my working 1963 fridges were laid on their side for a few hours when I transported them and I plugged both of them not even a day after they were standing up again! The non-working one was already non working and still installed where it had been delivered in 1962-1963 when I got it, and I had to transport it in upright position to leave space for a Flair range at the back!  

The compressor is a later model, the original one was also a rotary compressor but slightly different from that one. The original compressors for these fridges were 7/32 HP. 

If you had a shock, I'm guessing that there might be a problem with the defrost element. Just do a quick test with a multimeter, once it's plugged (there should be no ground on the plug if it's the original), see if the chassis is hot, (with one probe from the multimeter on the ground of an electrical outlet and the other one on any part of the fridge that's not painted. Try that with the refrigerator plug connected both with the wire going down and with the wire going up (it's not polarized), with the plug connected both ways, you shouldn't read any voltage on your multimeter. If you see something like 118V with the plug on either one of the two possible ways to connect it to the outlet, there's a short to the ground somewhere.

A common place for this kind of short is the defrost element. I haven't found exact replacement for these but there are similar ones that work with some tweaking. I was never able to get a part number for the replacement but I did replace it in my 1964 fridge as I had a similar one from a parts lot I had.

But before replacing it, I suggest that you plug the fridge so the chassis won't be hot all the time (it should be hot just twice a day during the defrost cycle if the defrost heater is the problem). 

The tests you need to do, first see when the chassis is hot, is it when the compressor is running, when the fan or interior lights are running (leaving the refrigerator door open will make the blower stop as the lights go on). Then, by disconnecting various wires below the plastic trim on the left side of the trim, you will probably find what causes the problem. The connections for the mullion heaters, freezer door heater, butter conditioner and the defrost element are there. Disconnecting the wires and taping their ends, one at a time (with the fridge disconnected while you're doing that and reconnected after for to test if the chassis is still hot will help you isolate the problem). 

Just be careful not to touch the fridge at the same time you're touching something else that's metallic and grounded (like bright trim on your range for example!). 

Then, have a look at your Tech Talk manual to see where the defrost element connects on the left side of the 

These usually take some time to get to their operating temperature... Even after they defrost with the freezer full of packages, the compressor can work for a few hours to get the temp back to 0°F (on mine it's set a bit lower than that). Now, yours I think might have a bigger compressor than the original, if there's a power rating on it, I'd be curious to see what they used. The original compressor was 7/32 HP. 

I leave my fridges on set on "1" and that seems to be the correct setting for the climate here. Look for a temperature of below 40 ° in the fridge and around 32° in the meat drawer and around 0° in the freezer.

"C" is the warmest setting (some models don't have a "C") and "3" is the coldest setting. 

I never had to replace missing leveling feet on a fridge but I think they are pretty standard. Those on washers often have larger threads but I think those from a fridge or a range should work. 

Welcome here Shelly, If you'd be around Montreal, I'd be very tempted to get your Flair.

I don't know if you have access to the "Shoppers Square" forum or not (I think it requires upgraded membership) but you could start a new thread in this section with the title in relation with your 1965 Flair that's for sale and your approximate location so local members could see it.

Here are a few documents that show details of Canadian-made 1965 Flairs. The controls are different from those on the US Flair ranges and the clock is a Lux Time on the 1964-1965 models.