Thread Number: 54335
Lubing the damper pads on a Maytag Dependable Care washer. A How To.
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Post# 767144   7/1/2014 at 01:45 (1,877 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        

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Since I had to do one in the field, I'd thought I'd share the process to let people see how it's done and how easy it is, thereby saving you the heartache of a destroyed damper.. Here goes!

In the field, there isn't always room to spread out but there is more than enough room here to get it done.


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Post# 767145 , Reply# 1   7/1/2014 at 01:50 (1,877 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        

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The tub should move relatively easily by grabbing the agitator. Damper pads in need of service will allow the mechanism to 'grab' the base and cause vibration and/or shaking and walking. Let them go too long and the pads will get ripped off the base and you will hear the heartbreaking sound of metal on metal. Expensive noise, too!

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Post# 767147 , Reply# 2   7/1/2014 at 01:55 (1,877 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        

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Tools you need really are few. A basic tool kit (this is a Xcelite tool roll that Maytag used to put out.) with screwdriver, nut driver for the top, a socket wrench for the tub spring nuts, a block comprised of 2 two by fours taped in a block, Poly Lube and maybe some gloves to keep your hands neat.

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This post was last edited 07/01/2014 at 03:06
Post# 767148 , Reply# 3   7/1/2014 at 01:57 (1,877 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        

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Remove the front cover. Some use two Phillips screws or in the newer DC machines, the front is held in place with clips.

Post# 767150 , Reply# 4   7/1/2014 at 02:00 (1,877 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        

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Remove the two 3/8" bolts that secure the top to the front of the cabinet. You will need the top to lift and give the tub room to raise. You'll see that in a minute.

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Post# 767151 , Reply# 5   7/1/2014 at 02:03 (1,877 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        

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Pull the washer forward enough that you can lean it back to access the tub spring bolts and belts. A bit tight in this small room but doable.

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Post# 767152 , Reply# 6   7/1/2014 at 02:10 (1,877 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        

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Remove the belts. Then Mark or measure how much thread is exposed before removing the nuts. You can do this with some tape on the upper part of the eyebolt above the nut. This will aid in tightening them when we're done and center the tub. Gloves. Wear em if you got em now.

Use your socket wrench to ALMOST undo the spring nuts. All three of them. What I do is reach inside the machine with one hand to hold onto the spring eye bolt and spring then finish removal of one of the back nuts. This keeps the tub spring and eye bolt from flying to other counties. Let them hang from the tub support arm. Then repeat for the other rear nut. Then I will undo the front which will be easier without the back two pulling on it,


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This post was last edited 07/01/2014 at 03:10
Post# 767153 , Reply# 7   7/1/2014 at 02:17 (1,877 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        

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Here's where the block comes in. Put it under the transmission pulley. Then tip the washer forward towards you while lifting the top to keep from knocking the out of balance arm out of alignment. The tub assembly will be pushed up off the base plate exposing the pads.

Here's where you can inspect the pads to make sure that all three are still attached to the base frame. These pads are felt. They might be glossy smooth from the weight of the tub and the movement. You can take a wire toothbrush and gently brush the pads to break up the gloss.


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This post was last edited 07/01/2014 at 03:11
Post# 767154 , Reply# 8   7/1/2014 at 02:25 (1,877 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        

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Get some Poly Lube on your fingertips. You don't want to slather it on heavily nor do you want to use a trace. A little bit applied to the pads and worked in a touch. This will allow the tub assembly to move around during spin but have just enough friction with the pads to keep it under control.

There are three pads in a triangular pattern. Make sure you get all of them.


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Post# 767155 , Reply# 9   7/1/2014 at 02:33 (1,877 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        
Down hill from here.

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Tip the washer back again, making sure the out of balance lever isn't catching on the tub cover. Remove the block. Start with one of the back eye bolts and, with one hand again, line it up with the hole where the nut will catch it. Just start it but don't tighten it up just yet. Repeat with the other rear eyebolt and nut. Sometimes working the wood block between the tub and the side of the cabinet will push the tub over enough to catch the 2nd rear eyebolt. Set the washer down and you can pull the tub forward enough to line up the front eyebolt.

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Post# 767156 , Reply# 10   7/1/2014 at 02:37 (1,877 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        

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Tip the washer back one last time. Remember when I told you to mark how much thread stuck out from the nut on each eyebolt? Here's where it will pay off. Tighten each nut till the right amount of threaded eyebolt is sticking out of the nut. Reinstall the belts. Set the washer back onto its feet.

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Post# 767157 , Reply# 11   7/1/2014 at 02:41 (1,877 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        
A word about my favorite socket wrench...

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This is a Crescent adjustable ratchet wrench. I keep this in my tool bag and it saves me from hunting the right size socket and going back to the truck. It has held up very well.

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Post# 767158 , Reply# 12   7/1/2014 at 02:48 (1,877 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        

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Ok. Test it out. First you should be able to move the tub around with little effort. There has to be some resistance to keep the tub movement in check without it grabbing the base frame. Second, put it into a spin then lift the lid. It should stop with the tub opening lined up with the opening in the top. If not, simply adjust the appropriate spring nut to line it up. Re spin to verify. Reinstall the front panel.

Congratulations. You have now done an important maintenance that all Dependable Care Maytags will need at some point in their lives.


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Post# 767159 , Reply# 13   7/1/2014 at 02:54 (1,877 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        
A side note...

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Because people ask frequently what is that watch, here it is. My mid 60's Citizen automatic with a custom deployment bracelet. I wear watches that range in size from this to big honkers that look like Flavor Flave loaned me his clock. Lol!

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Post# 767176 , Reply# 14   7/1/2014 at 05:46 (1,877 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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Great post, Drew. Thank You!


Post# 767195 , Reply# 15   7/1/2014 at 08:28 (1,877 days old) by STEVET (palm coast florida)        
Mystery solved..

so far,at least for me. But I do have one question.. Just where do these friction pads go and what do they look like? And were they used on all Maytags? My sister is always complaining about her machine spinning out of balance and the servicer cannot seem to get it to stop. If I ever get back out to Arizona, I would like to give it a try to get it right.
Are there any pictures or service procedures that we can post here?

BTW, Great job of showing how it is done, Drew


Post# 767222 , Reply# 16   7/1/2014 at 11:05 (1,877 days old) by ultramatic (New York City)        
I love how-to's

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Thanks Drew!


Post# 767233 , Reply# 17   7/1/2014 at 12:00 (1,877 days old) by hippiedoll (tucson, arizona u.s.a.)        
oh redcarpetdrew!!!!

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THANK YOU SOOO MUCH!!!

for posting this GREAT tutorial of how to do the damper pads!!! i know it took a lot of time to take pictures along the way. but boy that was AWESOME!!!

i'm afraid i may have to replace the damper pads on th 608 i just bought. and thanks to you drew, this job doesn't seem to be so hard or scarey now!!!

and i like that Crescent adjustable ratchet wrench. i want to get me one now!!!
hm hm hm.....

GREAT thread drew! you have given me more confidence in undertaking this "mission" myself.

a big THANK YOU for posting this "how to" thread.

:o)


Post# 767520 , Reply# 18   7/2/2014 at 19:46 (1,876 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        
Hi Steve!

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On the Dependable (2 belt) Care platform, the pads are attached to the base in a circular/triangular pattern. I'll attach a picture I pulled as I don't have one that really shows the location in great detail. These you lube. The Norgetags used a Teflon ring that kind of floated In between the base and the damper bowl. This you did not lube.



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Post# 767523 , Reply# 19   7/2/2014 at 19:52 (1,876 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        

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If you don't take care of them, then they get dry and start to get worked off the base. Then it can get interesting. If you're lucky, the new pads can get attached with glue by raising the tub like I did. You must scrape off the old pads if any and clean the base or the new won't stick. I'll do a separate thread on actually doing this. If you're not lucky, then the pads have come off and allowed the aluminum damper bowl to grind against the base frame. This can be easily told by hearing very unfunny metal on metal noises as the tub is moved around and/or the black dust of death appearing on the base around the damper area. Then it requires more effort and money to repair. Trust me folks. Don't let it get there!

Here's a base where the pads just started to come loose but not allowed the damper to grind yet.



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Post# 767524 , Reply# 20   7/2/2014 at 19:54 (1,876 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        

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The new pads come in a bag with lube.

Email me when you get there, Steve and we'll exchange numbers if you wish and I'll walk you thru it.

RCD


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Post# 767539 , Reply# 21   7/2/2014 at 20:43 (1,876 days old) by stevet (palm coast florida)        
Is that what keeps it balanced?

Drew,
Those pads seem inconceivable to do the job.
Here are some pics of the machine in question.
Model number is LAT9416AAE
Serial Number is 23274741UK
Any idea of the age? And are all the pads the same?

Thanks,
Steve
BTW, the control panel says "Quiet Pack" like my home dryer says but I nave not seen one bit of sound absorbing material on either machine!


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Post# 767545 , Reply# 22   7/2/2014 at 21:24 (1,876 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        

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Your washer was born in May, 1998. Yup. Those pads do the job. Remember, the springs keep the tub centered while the friction the pads provide allow some tub movement without letting the tub shake the base. Those pads have been in use since... The highlanders? They do it well.

Quiet pack. That was Maytag's way of saying it was the entry level quietness which wasn't much. The level of noise dampening went up from there. 'quiet pack II' and so on. You could tweak it yourself by getting some of the asphaltic sticky pads like on the sides of the KA dishwashers and applying them to the insides of the cabinet to reduce sympathetic vibrational noise. That's all they did.

RCD


Post# 767690 , Reply# 23   7/3/2014 at 15:21 (1,875 days old) by Volvoguy87 (Cincinnati, OH)        
Damper Pads.

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I recently got an A308 for free. The reason why I got it was because the damper pads had dried up and come off. The aluminum damper riding on the steel base caused the damper to shatter. Trust me, that is a BAD THING!

To fix it, I removed the front and opened up the top of the washer. I pulled out the agitator and the inner tub. I removed the belts, transmission pulley, and brake assembly. I removed the cabinet from the base. I leaned the inner tub over so I could unhook the springs one by one and lifted the outer tub out of the washer with the transmission and 3 support arms still attached and placed them gently on a pad on the floor. I unbolted the support arms from what was left of the damper and removed the arms from the inner tub. I pulled the remains of the damper off of the transmission. Finally, I pulled off the remains of the damper pads and sanded the area down.

To reassemble, I primed and painted the area of the base where the dampers go, letting it dry as instructed. I glued the new pads down with Maytag high temperature adhesive, let it dry, and then lubricated the pads with Polylube. I used a good damper that I had in my parts stash, and reassembled the machine. I also installed new feet.

It was a fair bit of work, but it wasn't too complicated, just a long process, primarily waiting for paint to dry and cure. I put the washer in service in my 4-family house for one of my tenants to use, and she is happy with it. It runs quietly, always balances on spin, and doesn't walk across the room.

Now I'm replacing damper pads on every Center Dial Maytag I rebuild, just because it's not difficult and prevents major problems later. Also, given that the newest Center Dial washer is a 1980 model, the original pads have a whole lot of time on them and aren't too likely to have been re-lubricated as often as they really should have been.

Dave



Post# 771819 , Reply# 24   7/19/2014 at 05:29 (1,859 days old) by alr2903 (TN)        

I have the  same "LAT" Tag. as reply #21.  It is the best washer I have ever owned. Thank You RCD.  & SteveT.  I just recorded this thread number on my washer owner book.
ALR


Post# 771871 , Reply# 25   7/19/2014 at 10:10 (1,859 days old) by pulltostart (Mobile, AL)        
Drew

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Thanks for the great information!  You make it look so easy.  I've always heard that about these little buggers, but it does look like something the average Maytag-owner could handle with the right tools and with patience.

 

After reading your post and looking at all of the pictures, I feel like I should get some kind of CE credit.

 

lawrence


Post# 771906 , Reply# 26   7/19/2014 at 14:29 (1,859 days old) by DigAPony ()        
The new pads can get attached with glue

Drew, what adhesive do you recommend for damper pads?

Needless to say, this is not a job one wants to do over.

How about 3M Scotch-Grip #847 as used on Maytag dryer felt seals.




CLICK HERE TO GO TO DigAPony's LINK


Post# 771908 , Reply# 27   7/19/2014 at 15:04 (1,859 days old) by d-jones (Western Pennsylvania (Pittsburgh Area))        

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I've wondered about using 1300L. It's used extensively in aviation maintenance for just about anything that needs to be glued, from leading edge de-icer boots to interior upholstery. It can be thinned with toluene until it's easily applied with a brush without leaving strings hanging, and if applied to both surfaces and allowed to dry until tacky, the parts can then be pressed together for a permanent bond.

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Post# 771916 , Reply# 28   7/19/2014 at 15:37 (1,859 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        

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That would work. We just use the yellow colored adhesive. That #847 would work too.

Thank you for the kind comments. Just trying to extend the lifespan of solid Maytag machines everywhere.

Lawrence, CE credit?

RCD


Post# 771933 , Reply# 29   7/19/2014 at 17:12 (1,859 days old) by pulltostart (Mobile, AL)        
CE

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Continuing Education (a.k.a.  PDH - professional development hours).

 

lawrence


Post# 771963 , Reply# 30   7/19/2014 at 20:45 (1,859 days old) by classiccaprice (Hampton, Virginia)        

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Spoken like a true educator, Lawrence. :)

Post# 772003 , Reply# 31   7/20/2014 at 01:44 (1,858 days old) by redcarpetdrew (Concord, CA (But my heart will always be in sweet Nevada!))        
I may be slow but I'm slow!

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Thanks, Lawrence . There will be a quiz...

RCD


Post# 772036 , Reply# 32   7/20/2014 at 07:46 (1,858 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Maytag Dampers

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Great instructional thread Drew, destroyed damper assembly's on MT helical drive washers are one of the frequent reasons that we are junking these washers as few customers will pay to fix them when the damper really fails. I have been saving good undamaged aluminum dampers from lightly used machines if anyone ever needs one, I am sure that WP will discontinue these one of these days. We get a lot of lightly used stack MTs out of condos here in the Dc area and these machines make great parts donners for other MTs.

Hi Steve, the damper should be checked for sure on your sisters washer, but the biggest problem with vibration on MT HD washers we see is that the four feet are not all set in as far as possible and the lock nuts are not tight [ and rubber pads in place ], this is the first thing to do. Beyond this if the washer in on a wooden floor that is not really solid MTs will vibrate more than some washers, we often go in and install a 3/4" section of plywood under the washer and dryer with glue and a screw every 4" across the entire piece of plywood.

Steve, warn your sister about excessive washer with cold water, LAT MTs can get really nasty and moldy around the top of the wash basket because of the way MT redesigned the tub and tub cover and fill inlet on the LAT machines, the good thing about the redesign was it did solve a lot of the back washing of lint and dirt onto the clean clothing that previous MTs HD washers suffered from.

John L.


Post# 772328 , Reply# 33   7/21/2014 at 14:03 (1,857 days old) by DigAPony ()        
Maytag high temperature adhesive

I rummaged through my parts stash and found a tube of Maytag Hi-Temp Adhesive I forgot about, I will try that on the damper pads.




CLICK HERE TO GO TO DigAPony's LINK





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