So I have this Maytag WU400 undercounter dishwasher which was manufactured in August of 1973. recently it started to have a lot of problems all at once. The first noticeable is issue is the fill valve which wont open sometimes, I found out the issue is either the pressure switch or the timer. I cant figure out which one because my multimeter is missing. The next problem was the original maytag door spring snapping, I managed to retrofit a modern whirlpool spring into it which solved the problem, however, I would still like to have an original spring. Onto the next issue. The machine is using the all the original parts from the day it was built, so the crusty old door gasket started leaked, or so I think, The vent cover on the inside of the machine was shattered by some menacing kids. I quickly cut out a new one from some aluminum to prevent water from leaking out. could it be possible that water is leaking around that, going through the inside of the door, and simulating a door gasket leak? I guess I'll have to run the machine without the front panel to find out. If it is the door gasket, Is there any way I can fix the leak without replacing the gasket? It is a very minor leak with about 1 tiny drop every 3 minutes onto the lower access panel. And onto the final issue: The lower spray arm has always been "bent". not the actual spray arm, and not the metal shaft. but one end of the spray arm is more raised than the other. after I took the spray arm bearing out for the first time, I noticed that the plastic bearing seemed to be at an angle and off center. Is this a manufacturing error? the plastic doesn't seem warped. And it's been like this since I moved in. The main issue with this is that if the spary arm is facing the door when you close it, it hits the spray arm and it gets caught by the door. I don't want to get a new machine because of how well this machine has served us over the years. I took care of it, however the previous owners abused the hell out of it.
Post# 778666 , Reply# 1 8/22/2014 at 10:45 (3,534 days old) by bwoods ()
For the fill problem, since you indicated it was not a problem with the valve itself, try electrically bypassing the overflow switch by disconnecting the two wires from the switch and connecting them to each other.
I would make sure your machine is leveled. Oftentimes people install dishwashers with little worry about leveling the machines. If your machine is not leveled, it can put a stresspoint on the bearing for the washarm. Forty one years of the arm turning with it being out of level can do a number on a bearing. So I would level the machine. The front legs are easily reached with the lower panel removed. If you cannot turn them with a wrench, spray a little penetrating oil on them and let them sit for a while--then try again. The rear leveling legs on the 1980's RR have a rod that allows you to turn the legs from the front of the machine. I don't know about the 70's models. If worst comes to worse and you cannot adjust the legs. Use a level and some shims.
Once the machine is leveled then you can replace the bearing. If you look hard enough you can probably find an online parts provider that still has some in stock.
As for the gasket...do you have a calcium carbonate build up on it from hard water? If so put lime-away or CLR on the gaskets and let them soak, then wipe and rinse. Hard water deposits will keep the gaskets from being flexible. However, they are 41 years old and may need to be replaced. My RR are all from the 80's, but all of the original gaskets still seal fine.
So I am inclined to think a good scrubbing then a soaking in CLR, or the like may give you enough flexibility that they seal.
However, there may be another cause for your leaking unrelated to the gaskets. I have had my RR's leak slightly when they were not leveled, as the machine tipped toward the front, it was enough to allow a small dribbling of water to leak over the lower tub edge, at the bottom of the door. When I lowered the rear legs, the water in the bottom of the tub then titled away from the front, and voila, no leaks. Maytags fill periously close to the top of the lower tub, and it doesn't take to much of a tilt or an overfill to cause a little water to spill over the edge. I have also had a stuck overfill float cause leaking Once again, hardwater deposits (from the previous owner) were to blame. I also had one leak because the little lever from the float to the cutoff switch was binding, and once had a the overflow switch itself go bad and cause leaking. It's a standard miniswitch and you don't have to buy it specifically for a Maytag. It's super easy to replace.
So there are some things you might try. Since you have indications of an unleved machine, this leads me to believe this may be the cause of the bearing wear and the leaking as well. So leveling the machine may kill two birds with one stone, so to speak.
I wish you well.
Bear
Post# 781198 , Reply# 2 9/3/2014 at 20:18 (3,521 days old) by pikapower1998 ()
I really appreciate the reply. Anyways, The door leak went away with time. it's completely gone now! I don't think hard water was a cause of the gasket becoming crusty as we have a water conditioner in-line with the water mains. Something I noticed was that the lower part of the gasket where the sump is was really hard and brittle. however, all parts of the gasket above sump level are still soft and good at keeping the water in. At this point there are no leaks so I guess I can't complain, although it would be wise to replace the gasket anyways - or at the very least, have a spare.
On the sprayarm situation... The machine is definitely level. The bearing is not worn very much at all, it actually seems as though the bearing was manufactured wrong, it's hard to explain. It's as if the center bearing was manufactured off center and at an angle because it doesn't show signs of wear or heat damage.
On the Fill valve situation... Today, while attempting to start the regular cycle, the valve would once again refuse to open, I know for sure that the valve is OK. The pump would start and reverse at the right time so it's didn't seem like a timer issue. Something quite strange is the fact that when I pour a bucket of hot water into the sump manually and run the machine for a few minutes, the valve usually opens up again when the timer is advanced. So it seems like an overflow switch getting stuck, but I don't think so. After the valve had started to work again, I opened the door to inspect the gasket, when I closed the door I noticed the timer had gone backwards a few increments into the previous cycle, then it ran normally when I moved it forward to the regular cycle. around the first minute of the pump kicking in to wash the dishes, I noticed the fill valve would open a few times for about 1-3 seconds randomly. I'm thinking it's a timer issue, but at the same time I can't wrap my head around why pouring water into the sump manually would make it work normally again. I have been using this method for months!
The dishwasher pump is stuck in wash mode, even when the timer is off, the pilot light remains off but the pump continues to run unless the door is open. Obviously since it's stuck in wash mode, the motor can't reverse to drain. Good thing I noticed this before it filled and overflowed as the pressure switch doesn't work (is there any way to adjust it?). I'm 99% sure this is because of a welded contact in the timer. This may also explain why the machine won't fill sometimes, the timer is probably just worn out. Is there any way I can open the timer and clean and repair the contacts? I'd rather ask an expert before I accidentally wreck the timer. any help would be appreciated.
Comes to the Rescue!
