Thread Number: 63093  /  Tag: Wringer Washers
Need some help with restoring a Pink 1960's E2LP
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Post# 856715   12/15/2015 at 11:17 (1,015 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        

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First of all Merry christmas and Happy holidays from the desert,
I have for years enjoyed the Pictures and stories here. and vital information. And made the decision to find a PROJECT winger to use. With support from great folks like Ya"ll should be a BREEZE.. LOL LOL
This is a craigs list find. Wringer washers are few and far between here in Phoenix, and we knew it was not operational. We are both mechanically inclined and only lack the experience and you only get that by starting with a project.
Inital assement was..Paint faded. Drain hose missing, Motor was seperate. (Plugged in a work fine.)
Now the really bad stuff.
Grease on side shaft housing. Motor pulley was stuck but freed up after turning.
Not really free spinining but moving. After removing Gyrator there appeard to be grease ( thought it was just dried muck) in the tub under the filter.but after applying hot water it was grease.
I removed a washer then a part from the shaft that appears to be (what is left of a small radiator hose with a spring embeded in it. Shown in pictures,
Other than that his big find was....
The issue is, the pulley rotates 6 times the stops. If he places his finger in (what I assume) the breather hole he can feel a shaft that is moving up at an incline and hits the inside of transmission housing stopping the pulley from turning, The shaft is not centered to line up with the hole. move the pulley back in the opposite direction 6 turns and stops. The hole discribed is shown in the picture of the transmission. Am I correct that this is the breather hole?
Also noted surface rust on the tranny in front.
I am sure this is the tip of a iceburg. But have to start somewhere. and if your going to own something know how to fix it we hate having to
CALL SOMEBODY everytime a new appliance breaks. and dont usually do that.So getting educated hands on so we can take care of whatever comes up is vital for us in todays world.
Whew sorry about the lenghy explination and lack of proper names. I worked on race cars in the 70"s so so my lingo is automotive, And construction oriented.

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Post# 856743 , Reply# 1   12/15/2015 at 14:53 (1,015 days old) by LaVidaBoem ()        
Its such a Shame,...isn't it?



If you were only here...its a shame you are too far, but hey, that's what they make wheels for I guess.


I would help you all I could, and that would be buy another "here" (possible any of the southern states from TX to GA), for parts.

They range from pickup to 150 dollars running.

There was last week a pink one on EPray for not any more, I believe.


Anyway, of course we're here to help, but that sure is the best advice I could give you.


Hope this Helps,


Post# 856747 , Reply# 2   12/15/2015 at 15:20 (1,015 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Thank you for your support LaVidaBoem

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I'm sure with a little help we'll getter done.

It's a killer to see great vintage appliances all over the east coast and mid sections of the country
The prices can be reasonalbe but shipping is BAD.

Post# 856791 , Reply# 3   12/15/2015 at 20:27 (1,014 days old) by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)        
It looks to me like . . .

You'll need a replacement or complete rebuild of the Power Unit. The shaft is supposed to be flush on both sides of the unit. This is probably why you can only turn the pulley 6 times. Here's a picture of what the inside should look like. It has a clutch missing but you'll see the shaft I'm talking about.

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Post# 856894 , Reply# 4   12/16/2015 at 10:14 (1,014 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Transmission replacement Thank you for the picture e2l-arry

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Thank you for the pic. He needed it. and will need it for reference.
We had to use the trust adjustment to line up the shaft, finally got that shat lined up. But noticed that the top fo the shaft is damaged. little chucks chipped out of it. We knew there was TROUBLE ahead.
He could turn the pulley easily for awhile then it. FROZE.
So now we are removing the gulmite bolts. And a purist won't like our method of removal. But it will work and a repair man said they can be replaced with standard hex-head stainless 5/16-18 bolts. As the newer models went with these.
Since this will be my full time washer and fixed correctly it will out live me. All the effort will be worth it.
For the cost of parts for this we can't buy even an on sale cheap automatic. and would be lucky to get 10 years out of a new model.
So the saga will continue. We will be victorious, And PINKIE will rise again. It will take some time.

Post# 856903 , Reply# 5   12/16/2015 at 10:58 (1,014 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Appliance salvage in Glendale az

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Several years ago there was a post on a trip taken to an appliance repair shop in Glendale Az.
I live on the edge of Gendale and Phoenix. I know by the pics that it is by the tracks. But I can't find it.
I would be very greatful if any one could tell me the name of the business. Or streets near it.
I love visiting auto salvage yards and appliance salvage yards. Strange girl I know.

Post# 856969 , Reply# 6   12/16/2015 at 20:12 (1,013 days old) by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)        

Was a thread I started over 3 years ago when I was where you are today. You might find some useful information in it from my refurbishment as well as some of my mistakes along the way.

Mine kept locking up also. Once I opened it up all I could find was a few chipped teeth on the large gear but never determined if that was the problem.

Meanwhile, back at the ranch, I bought another Center Plate/Power Unit assembly I found on Ebay for something like $30.00. That's the one I restored and it's performed flawlessly ever since. I have all the old parts laying around if you need any components, they'd be yours for the asking.

I did the same thing replacing the gulmite bolts and so on. You can contact our wringer guy Phil for everything from bolts to new gaskets. You'll need them. I believe your photo #2 is the agitator seal and washer. You need a clip spring to hold it in place but it keeps water out of the transmission. Something I had plenty of trouble with. Phil has all that stuff. Check out Ebay under Maytag Wringer Washer. Anything from Ovid NY, that's Phil. Let me know of you need anything else.

I've been running mine as a daily driver over 3 years now and love it! Here are some before/after photos. Enjoy!


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Post# 857062 , Reply# 7   12/17/2015 at 10:10 (1,013 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Thankyou e2l-arry :)

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Funny but I had your thread saved before we started. I thought this was the perfect storm. Not to much else could be wrong. And in reading your trip thru hates, I could only go so far and stop. To sad.
I never finished the whole thread, When hubby sat down to read it. he went to the end first (cheater)
and found all your fabulous pics, it was truly helpful.
The nuts are being a challange, so much calcium from our hard water over the years has rock hardended the washers to the tub, Even if we had the special wrench and hot water soaking and using clr and vinegar
The bolts seem welded to the tub. We got 2 out. The third snapped... so it's easy out time. Slow going, Wonder if there was a torqe spec in production wow the're tight, don't want leaks.
I have the number of Phil in Cyuga. I'm from Syracuse. Do so miss the beautiful country, And the farm.
Don't want to start purchasing all the items till we know what we need initally.
Heck hope the wringer works. It appears to be intact. rollers look good the black one has some grease on it. Soaking in dawn
should cut that. The tub is in excellent condition, and the crown still shines, So when we get it out it's clean and polish time. There are, alot of good parts if nothing else to sell. If we cant get it going. NOT GIVING UP YET.

Post# 857609 , Reply# 8   12/20/2015 at 20:01 (1,009 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
After a week of dissembly the problem is found

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Took alot of work getting the gulmite bolts out, So much calcification 2 snapped off. Stripped threads out of the plate but we got the plate off.
After cleaning the p/u (took 2 days of soaking to get all the gunk out) there are missing teeth on the worm shaft. Next is the removal of the shaft. That sounds like a real treat. Thank you for the help so far.

Post# 857618 , Reply# 9   12/20/2015 at 21:20 (1,009 days old) by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)        
There MUST

be someone out there with a "parts" machine. It would be easier to swap out the P.U. than rebuilding the one you have. If you're brave enough to want to keep the one the machine came with, I bet Phil can sell you any parts you'd need.

Also when it comes to the Center Plate, make sure the bearings and the seal on the agitator shaft are good. I kept having to tear mine back down because of water getting into the Power Unit and it took me a while to figure out how it was getting in there.

These machines are relatively easy to work on. They're basic design makes them workhorses. They remind me of the old air cooled VW beetle engines. Simple but brilliantly engineered for their time.


Post# 857663 , Reply# 10   12/21/2015 at 08:18 (1,009 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Parts machine

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Going to call around the valley today to the old repair/ resale shops to see what they have.
The one visited by the members on AW is only 5 min from me. Had to use Google sattelite
view and take references from their yard picts to find it but I did. Just followed the railroad tracks,
and there it was.
Any wringers (maytag) are really $$$$ here. And I have contacted all listed on CL. Gone or pending or won't budge on price. 179.00 with the center plate laying in the tub !!!!!Or simply non responsive, and I've decided some folks like playing games. Searched all classifieds on google for the valley.
I feel i'll need the center plate too. Will post a pic when phone charges. I may be able to repair it. And get really creative with
4.00 of J&B or 120.00 for a new one?? I know the risks. will do a wet test before complete rebuild.
Thank you for your support E2l-arry. It is apperciated.

Post# 857682 , Reply# 11   12/21/2015 at 10:37 (1,009 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Pictures of plate and body

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Post# 857695 , Reply# 12   12/21/2015 at 11:20 (1,009 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        

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And that's what I got to work with

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Post# 857711 , Reply# 13   12/21/2015 at 13:54 (1,009 days old) by LaVidaBoem ()        

Yes, as I suspected nothing like a parts machine...


I just wanted to encourage you, and mention,

Do you know about Search Tempest?


Just type in the address bar, will take you there.


Use Search Tempest to Search ALL of Craigslist in a jiffy.


Good Luck,




CLICK HERE TO GO TO LaVidaBoem's LINK on Mohave Craigslist

This post was last edited 12/21/2015 at 14:23
Post# 857713 , Reply# 14   12/21/2015 at 14:05 (1,009 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Search Tempest

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That's new to me
Thank you LaVidaBoem
off to CL

Post# 857734 , Reply# 15   12/21/2015 at 16:01 (1,008 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

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I just took a decent gearbox to the auction 2 weeks ago. For what I got for it, I would have given it to you.

Post# 857753 , Reply# 16   12/21/2015 at 17:48 (1,008 days old) by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO)        
I still have

the Center Plate that mine came with, It looks way better than yours which looks like toast to me. I tried to remove the shaft to see which bearing was bad but couldn't get it to budge. If you think you can repair my old one it's yours. It's been sitting in a box of spares in my basement for over 3 years and I'll never use it again.Same goes for myoriginal Power Unit. It would occasionally lock up and I'd have to turn the pulley backwards by hand to free it. I never figured out why other than a few minorly chipped teeth and a few loose pieces of metal shavings so I replaced it with my ebay purchase.

Post# 857771 , Reply# 17   12/21/2015 at 20:14 (1,008 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Thank you all. So generous ya'll are

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Thank you so much. I don't know what to think. If you can't get the shaft out we don't have any more options than you had, so hum, sadly I don't think we could do any better.
But the transmission could be a possible fix if the worm gear is undamaged. Our large gear has very minimal damage,
Hubs asks what do you want for the
P/U. Maybe we can get one working out of the 2.
The more I reread your original thread I catch more info
The overtightend bolts and uneven tub so sutble so defeating.

Post# 857835 , Reply# 18   12/22/2015 at 10:24 (1,008 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        

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Have you contacted Phil in Ovid NY?
He has sold center plates on eBay on the past for $120.00.
There has to be one around somewhere!
Don't give up! One will turn up!

Post# 857845 , Reply# 19   12/22/2015 at 11:09 (1,008 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Ebay and parts Hello stan

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In reading and rereading Moving a E2l thread I fell we've already met. That thread should be put in a book. HUM idea brewing here.
Yes I've shopped the bay. And checked out the parts he has and there's a plate there. Along with the other parts required all except the P/U. I'm sure I'll be in contact with him at some point.
And If E2l-arry is generous enough to part with his P/U it is possible to make one out of 2.
I still think theres a possibility the shaft houseing can be saved. But I need a pic of the inside of the housing,
Hubs says I have alot of faith in J/B weld. We'll see. Wont be out anything if it doesn't work just time, and I got more of that than $$$$$
Do you know if the worm gear is difficult to get out?
Off to more gasket removal. Slow going makes me feel like I'm 20 again. I'll pretend it's my super bee
getting her new carbs. Scrape clean and polish.

Post# 857855 , Reply# 20   12/22/2015 at 12:16 (1,008 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Ebay and parts Hello stan

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In reading and rereading Moving a E2l thread I fell we've already met. That thread should be put in a book. HUM idea brewing here.
Yes I've shopped the bay. And checked out the parts he has and there's a plate there. Along with the other parts required all except the P/U. I'm sure I'll be in contact with him at some point.
And If E2l-arry is generous enough to part with his P/U it is possible to make one out of 2.
I still think theres a possibility the shaft houseing can be saved. But I need a pic of the inside of the housing,
Hubs says I have alot of faith in J/B weld. We'll see. Wont be out anything if it doesn't work just time, and I got more of that than $$$$$
Do you know if the worm gear is difficult to get out?
Off to more gasket removal. Slow going makes me feel like I'm 20 again. I'll pretend it's my super bee
getting her new carbs. Scrape clean and polish.

Post# 857921 , Reply# 21   12/22/2015 at 19:30 (1,007 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
No more holes

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The case has no more holes. Curing time in progress. then I'll remove the liner and continue to rebuild the outter and inner parts. kinda looks like crap up close. it isn't as thick as the photo portrays.

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Post# 857966 , Reply# 22   12/23/2015 at 01:58 (1,007 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Hi Sheryl

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I have a service manual for this machine on PDF.. Larry has one too.
The manual gives instructions for removal of worm gear, with some photos ect.
Do you have a service manual? If not, you need one to do what your attempting!
I can try to email you one, or Larry can.

Post# 857987 , Reply# 23   12/23/2015 at 08:17 (1,007 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Thank you Stan

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That would be super if you could email it. I would really apperciate that. Pulling the liner out of the outter shaft case, looks good. and is nice and thick where the holes were.

Post# 858013 , Reply# 24   12/23/2015 at 12:56 (1,007 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
When I get home

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I'll try and send it to you! Think you'll find it helpful.
Geoff Delp (think I spelled that right) may be if help too. He's a member here, you can look him up.. Who knows he may stop by here!

Post# 858019 , Reply# 25   12/23/2015 at 13:41 (1,007 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        

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Wow that's great. I will enjoy reading it.
I think there's an oiling port on the bottom of the plate in the ( don't know the proper term) indention that has the gasket.
I tried the agitator on the spline no problems with it. Spins freely after
cleaning and cleaning the bearing in the bottom of the plate.

Post# 858109 , Reply# 26   12/24/2015 at 01:56 (1,006 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        

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Forgot you.. Just trying to figure out how to send it to you from 16 year old computer that I've almost forgot how to use..
Hang tight .. Will try again tomorrow!

Post# 858146 , Reply# 27   12/24/2015 at 10:04 (1,006 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Thats fine... thanks.

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Stan I have those issues too. Built the lip on the shaft housing last nite, now to remove the liner. What fun.

Post# 858151 , Reply# 28   12/24/2015 at 11:01 (1,006 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Ordering goodies

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Just ordered this from Phil's Maytag

Maytag Washer A4298 Seal for Agitator Shaft Package
Just the start I presume.

Post# 858185 , Reply# 29   12/24/2015 at 15:27 (1,006 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Take pics

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So we can see!
Will try again tonight to send this

Post# 858365 , Reply# 30   12/26/2015 at 00:33 (1,004 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Hi Sheryl

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Just sent you the Maytag Maunual PDF from my desktop.
Let me know if you get it.
having trouble with my desktop, not sure it went through?

Post# 858405 , Reply# 31   12/26/2015 at 09:46 (1,004 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Got it.

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Your desk top worked fine... Thank you Thank you....The manual came thru fine. Has all the info we will need.
We got the vertical wringer shaft all cleaned out. a few hard chunks but the gears are good and spin freely.
Still cleaning gasket residue off the inside of the tub. Hard as a rock.
Parts shipped from phil. I'll see if the plate shaft repair I did will work.
Thinking about sitting the tub in the bath tub with hot hot water and vinegar to see if it willl
soften the residue. and clean some of the tarnish off the tub.

Post# 858408 , Reply# 32   12/26/2015 at 10:05 (1,004 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Good idea!

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A good soak may save a lot of elbow grease.
If you look at that thrust bearing ect in the manual you'll see why I thought you need one.
Take pics of that part of the refurbing if you can !
Have you tried rubbing compound or fine cut cleaner on the tub?

Post# 858414 , Reply# 33   12/26/2015 at 11:03 (1,004 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Not perfect but

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There is still room for improvement. It may work as is. Thoughts?

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Post# 858423 , Reply# 34   12/26/2015 at 12:09 (1,004 days old) by stan (Napa CA)        
Only one

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way to find out LOL

Post# 858523 , Reply# 35   12/26/2015 at 21:46 (1,003 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        

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It's worth a try. When the parts get here I can judge the worthiness of the repair.

Post# 859117 , Reply# 36   12/30/2015 at 11:29 (1,000 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Got the pictures backwards. Wow thats a huge picture.

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Well got the parts and had to add better lip. The water seal will be under the lip centered the washer appears to be able to fit correctly. I have to wait for my assistant( lol) to get home to get a second opinion.
I have to order the parts number catalog to order a worm drive and seals from Phil.
Found a possible donor for 50.00 about 1.5 hrs drive. They OF COURSE never tested it to see if it works.
Asked if they would check it out today. Not spending 3 hrs and and have the parts I need not working.

But guess I'll wait to see if the donor works, I may have a frankenwasher. This is a clean looker but the oil on the top is a concern no pics of the legs so we'll see.

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Post# 859126 , Reply# 37   12/30/2015 at 13:20 (1,000 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        

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The white one works. got a video of it working so far so good.

Post# 859219 , Reply# 38   12/31/2015 at 01:29 (999 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
The oil

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On the machine might be from someone trying to "add oil"..thinking that adding it through the wringer head drive shaft, that it will reach the Power Unit. (It won't)
Adding gear oil at that location will cause grease to oze back out
Keep us posted on your progress!

Post# 859268 , Reply# 39   12/31/2015 at 10:31 (999 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Thats what I thought about the oil.

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Machine was 50.00 paid 20.00 in gas for the truck. so all in 70.00 on this one.
Got it home last nite. After supper rolled it in the bathroom and put water in the tub. OOPsz of course a leak.
Small split in tub to pump hose. What do we have to jerry rig a fix?
Gorrila glue. it cures with water so we gave it a try. NO LEAK!! How da thunk.
Pump was added the sticker says E2L. But I just gravity drain no biggie.
The white washer has done 4 loads of wash this morning, after 1 hr of cleaning the tub. The gryator is stuck. Of course. Thinking hot water would loosen it. So far no go. It washes like a whiz. But there is not enough tension on the rollers. everything is really soppy wet. Even hospital scrubs. and they are flimsy.
Have to find info on putting some more tension on the springs,
So now I have 2. Is this how it starts?
LOL. I am one of those whos idea of a good time is checking out all the appliances at a big box store. I love to touch every one.
The serial # is 15296 FF so as best as I can decipher thats march of 1964.
Found change in the tub dated 1980. probably last time used. Made .80 cents on this deal THATS ROCKING.
Thank you for the help. It has been great help.

Post# 859274 , Reply# 40   12/31/2015 at 11:28 (999 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Upon researching the wringer

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I gather this model has no adjustment as to how tight the rollers are. Hum.?

Post# 859359 , Reply# 41   12/31/2015 at 20:05 (998 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
I'm assuming you

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Have played with the tension lever..?
Press the tension release bar, and hold in and simultaneously turn the lever on top counter clockwise..
You could check the service manual for adjustments to the tension?
I'll look too.

Post# 859362 , Reply# 42   12/31/2015 at 20:44 (998 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Ill read up on it.

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Thank you I didn't think of the service manual. And Happy new year to you

Post# 859369 , Reply# 43   12/31/2015 at 22:48 (998 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        

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Counterclockwise to tighten rollers!
Happy new Year to you too!

Post# 859418 , Reply# 44   1/1/2016 at 09:42 (998 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
I have very wimpy turning ability.

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I tried turning it clock wise yesterday, I'm so afraid of breaking something I just didn't turn it hard enough.
It's locked now. Should be much more efficient..LOL.
We are going to fashion a type of puller similar to the one in the manual to try to remove the gyrator.

Post# 859452 , Reply# 45   1/1/2016 at 12:53 (998 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
photos of puller.

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Great effort but still stuck. Running more laundry in hot water. Alot of grainy chunks came out possible sediment. So... really don't want to cut it up to get it out.

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Post# 859461 , Reply# 46   1/1/2016 at 14:18 (998 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Utube link short clip of wash action

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DOn't know it videos are allowed in message so heres the link


Post# 859533 , Reply# 47   1/1/2016 at 21:42 (997 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
It should come off doing

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what your doing?
Try pulling right after you've drained out hot water (while still warm) once you get it out, clean the splines on both the post and the agitator (steel wool) and lube both. That should take care of future problems. Once it's out you can clean under it (SOS).
The water level is about two inches down from the top of the agitator. If less than that is used, it agitates the fabrics a little too much.
These old Wingers like only one load size for gentle but effective agitation and roll over. LOL

Post# 859534 , Reply# 48   1/1/2016 at 21:46 (997 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
Water level

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Is here where the veins stop.

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Post# 859536 , Reply# 49   1/1/2016 at 21:55 (997 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        

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little to much soap LOL

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Post# 859609 , Reply# 50   1/2/2016 at 10:29 (997 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
It's a no go and it's wringing great. Thanks for the

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I was just too gentle getting the wringer head to lock down. clothes are as dry as the automatic spin cycle.
Gryator....This thing is stuck. Will not budge.
I knew the water level was low. Some folks were in a rush. To see it wash.
MY.....Next thought I had was to drill a small hole in the top of it and try clr, or penetrating oil with rust remover. Heat doesn't seem to work. And I'm out of ideas.
Looking down the other gryator it appears to be open far enough for this to work. Thoughts????
He doesn't want to ruin the gryator by cutting it off. A small hole can be sealed With silicone. The water level doesn't get that high.

Post# 859665 , Reply# 51   1/2/2016 at 18:33 (996 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
You can get a new agitator from Phil, if you accidentally tare that one up. Better to ruin the agatatir that to damage the post! So giver a try? But before you cut..
Try filling partially with hor water, and start agitation, let agitate for a few min, then try pulling with hot water in it, and while it's still agitating.. Maybe the extra movement while pulling will help.. I'm grasping LOL but won't hurt to try

Post# 859683 , Reply# 52   1/2/2016 at 21:24 (996 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Well .....pull while running??

tinkr's profile picture
It's an idea. Don't know how to make that work. My brain says hum. kinda dangerous.
Drilling a hole and trying penetrating rust remover is less forceful.
I have the other one out of Pinkie. I really want to put in a new water seal.
So guess we have to do what ever to get that done.
All the pulling and tapping and wiggling around with it cant be good for bolts and gaskets.
In the mean time cleaning the tarnish off in the tub. Hands haven't been this black in many years.
Black hair dye is quite similar, but not as easy to get off.

Thank you for all your responses. I'm very grateful

Post# 859707 , Reply# 53   1/2/2016 at 23:42 (996 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
are you using to clean it with?
The only reason I don't feel confident about the penetrating that I think Larry tried that to get his off, and if I remember correctly.. it didn't work. But won't hurt to try!
Where are you Larry LOL

Post# 860661 , Reply# 54   1/8/2016 at 01:01 (991 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture

Post# 860698 , Reply# 55   1/8/2016 at 11:31 (991 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
No luck.

tinkr's profile picture
It's still stuck. I don't think penetrating oil is the answer either.
I've detailed cleaned the body. Removing the oil down the leg and around the wringer, The grease and gunk in the castors. Tons of animal hair in the castors. This was most likely used in a horse barn for blankets ect. Very common here in the west. having horses and cows most of my life the hair is easy to recognize.
Repainted chips in paint and deep scratches. Using evaporative cooling 1/2 the summer could have caused rusting to start. Cleaned a polished the leg extensions.
Worked 3 days to clean and polish the inner tub.
The gryator has been stuck for some time there are screwdriver scratches from prior attempts to remove it. Found those after removing about 1/8 inch of oxidation. It was nasty.

next idea is to drill thru the top portion of the gryator and place a pull rope and use the previous method of the make shift puller. While running the machine. Thought being that more DIRECT pulling force at the CENTER may be affective.
I am concerned about putting that much force on the shaft center plate bolts p/u ect.
Thoughts on that.

The tub isn't going to be perfect but better. these are in progress photos. There are serious scratches on the lower side of the crown. But not much iron damage on the inside of the tub. Must have had good soft water.
Did 4 loads yesterday, no drips or leaks. Fairly quiet. Only popped the wringer once. Cargo shorts
I have to invest in Tide. Kirkland or cosco dry detergent isn't good for the aluminum.

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Post# 860985 , Reply# 56   1/10/2016 at 02:33 (989 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
I agree

stan's profile picture
About the liquid detergent being easier on the aluminum, but over time it dulls and darkens with liquid as well.. When it bothers me, I just re polish.
The thoughts I've got about pulling on the gyrator are.. Be careful. At this point nothing is leaking and washer is working. Eventually the gyrator has to come off to clean under, and you could be forced to have to get it off if something clogs the hole to the drain.
To me it would be a lot easier to cut off the gyrator and replace it, rather that doing damage to the P.U, post ect.

Post# 861027 , Reply# 57   1/10/2016 at 11:16 (989 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
I agree with you.

tinkr's profile picture
I bought a very long brush. Short bristles and stiff. It will do a more than adequate job of cleaning under the gryator.
Still on the hunt for a real donor for Pinkie. Or parts.
I was reading old posts and I found a comment made by Geodelph ( spelled wrong) that the pu and pumps ect. are the same in the E N & J models.??? so that has broadened my search.
I keep checking the Esnay site but no luck yet. And CL prices are high. And the working maytags just need paint and serious cleaning. I don't have room for a collection.
I have pinkie torn down and sitting in the living room.
The plan is to get ready for paint. and when it warms up outside repaint with Krylon Maxx . Ballet Slipper pink.???
The pink on the machine is not as vibrant as I've seen on other machines. I know it is faded but even looking at the paint hidden from the sun is light pink not vibrant. Then carnuoba wax.
Spelling is not my strong suit today,
Thank you for your input. Have a great week.

Post# 861145 , Reply# 58   1/11/2016 at 01:23 (988 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
I Should have

stan's profile picture
Mentioned that the PUs are all the same for J N and E. A donner will turn up, or you have the option of rebuilding Larry's.
Let's hope with continued use of the white one, that that gyrator loosens (wishful thinking)
These machines have a small rubber ring that fits over the agitator post to keep the gyrator from floating off. Yours may be hardened and stuck. I took mine off and sometime mine will float off while agitation is stopped and tub is full. I just put it back and move on. I'd rather it comes off too easy that to have it get stuck.
If ur able..I'd like to see a pic of disassembled pinkie!

Post# 861461 , Reply# 59   1/12/2016 at 16:57 (986 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Pinkie and her parts live in the living room for now.

tinkr's profile picture
Getting ready for paint. Using 400 grit wet dry. Not much paint left in some areas.
Still working on the tub.. Yuck so much black tarnish. And this tub has iron erosion.
And the more I clean it I'm fearing I'll create a hole.
tomorrow I'm priming the belt guard. And maybe the 1st coat of new pink.
Slow going.
If I cant't find the parts to finish at least
I can get it together enough to clear off the futon. : o )
Old phone = rather crappy pictures sorry

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Post# 862370 , Reply# 60   1/17/2016 at 14:38 (982 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
priming and painting Pinkie

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Finally got up to 50 degrees so time to prime and paint.
Pic 1 is primed. The following are painting and then Clear Coat of Rust-oleumn lacquer.
On to cleaning the brace Motor supports and Sanding and prep of the wringer.

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Post# 862379 , Reply# 61   1/17/2016 at 15:53 (981 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

Looks great!

Post# 862397 , Reply# 62   1/17/2016 at 17:15 (981 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Thank you goatfarmer

tinkr's profile picture
My hubs did a super job on the priming and painting. I am the official can shaker.. She is going to be an outstanding looking piece of machinery when finished.

Post# 864236 , Reply# 63   1/27/2016 at 00:51 (972 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
Pics when it's finished and assembled!
Any luck with the agitator on the white one?

Post# 864500 , Reply# 64   1/28/2016 at 13:11 (971 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
No luck

tinkr's profile picture
It's stuck.

But she washes like a dream. And wrings to damp dry. Ran Cal king sheets today. After rinsing and wringing.. put them in my spinner (portable washer) NO WATER SPUN OUT> WOW Thats a great tribute to a maytag wringer. 800 rpm in the washer. The wringer gets them just a dry.

Still sanding and painting pinkie parts.

We have been busy working on our rental house. So the washer has been on the back burner.
Life just gets in the way of fun.
And Stan glad your car is running ok. My Corvair restoration has been stalled for a few years.

Post# 864587 , Reply# 65   1/28/2016 at 23:52 (970 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
heard of a wringer getting clothes that dry before! You must have a really good machine.
Now you've gone and done it.. You mentioned auto restoration.. Now you have to start a new thread with pics when you get back to the Corvair. LOL

Post# 864652 , Reply# 66   1/29/2016 at 11:07 (970 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
The white machine is great

tinkr's profile picture
It exceeded all my expectations for a wringer. When I can get parts for Pinkie she'll be just as impressive.

i was shocked when no water exited the drain hose. it's a 1.6 Haier portable. about 5 years old still works but the control panel is getting touchy.
And I refuse to be without my own personal washer.
We moved hubs parents with us into a split floor plan home. And mom is a very controlling person.
So I have a portable and the wringer is portable and a much larger capacity than the haier.

So she is using my Dependable care over sized commercial Maytag. In the laundry nook. Best darn machine I've owned.
That machine will be rebuilt after she kills it running it every day with virtually no clothes in is going to do that.
My mom had the Maytag avacado green 806 so of course that machine is special to me.
The wringer when washing sounds remarkably like the 806.
our 1st machine was a Ge filter flow. I passed that down to my brother.
And got the Maytag Dependable care. Early 2000 machine ,year end discount 625.00
wow I bought cars for less than that.

And I had an the old Frigidaire vertically pulsating washer.. I would stand and watch it pulse thru the whole wash cycle. They make that wonderful smooshie sound. And
the braking sound will scare any dog or cat.

The Vair is stored at the rent house. I have to get it moved here. By trailer. And have been to cheap to hire some one.
Social Security kicks in this year so I'll have cash to get things done.

Post# 865647 , Reply# 67   2/5/2016 at 09:00 (963 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
found my parts

tinkr's profile picture
I found a seller on e-bay with vintage maytag parts listed. Asked if he may have the gear box. and he did.
Plate and box and horizontal shaft. Pulley turns shaft turns yippie.
7 days fed ex. $61.00 total. Pinkie may be in action soon.

Post# 870196 , Reply# 68   3/2/2016 at 21:22 (936 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
Pinkie is working

tinkr's profile picture
My Mac is in the shop so no pictures yet. We got the machine reassenbled... but the wringer does not lock in place. My service manual is on the other computer.. Any sugestions?
We have leaks at the pump to tub hose and the pump gasket. And the pump makes a heck of a racket. .. That ringer head nearly bashed me in the head. Now that's gratitude for you.saved from the scrap yard and that's the thanks we get. lol

Post# 870272 , Reply# 69   3/3/2016 at 07:49 (936 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
non locking wringer

tinkr's profile picture
Found the answer in an older post.. Problem with the index slide.

Post# 870283 , Reply# 70   3/3/2016 at 08:50 (936 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
removing the agitator......

you were sort of on the right move with the 2x4.....

but lets try something a bit different.....

using the 2x4, and of course lay a towel across the machine as not to damage the top.....

grab 2 ratcheting tie downs.....criss-cross over the board, and under the agitator.....

snug up, and then start ratcheting each one a bit at a time.....

and it should pop off.....

this works for most applications......doing this with hot water that you boiled on the stove can only help the situation....

keep us posted......

Post# 870404 , Reply# 71   3/4/2016 at 01:47 (935 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        

stan's profile picture
Glad you got her up and running. The index slide is coming part that breaks on these machine. Now that you,ve seen it and replaced it, you can see why. It has to take a lot of abuse by the user.
The ratcheting straps sound like a good bet. Let us know

Post# 875148 , Reply# 72   3/31/2016 at 15:26 (908 days old) by tinkr (Phoenix Arizona)        
finished with a few caveats

tinkr's profile picture
Small drip at the pump.. And the pump works but roars and rattles. If I hold the lever half way
it pumps and is silent???

the wringer now locks as it should. (pic included of the index guide and the pitiful condition of the pawl.)

the washer washes as it should.. Yea

the agitator floats and the splines inside the agitator are worn. Float is better than stuck. I agree on that.

we got a clear hose for the drain. I like it because I can tell if any water is left in it.

The transmission and plate I received from Ebay seller. Had a freshly painted thrust adjustment bolt.
The washer and clip parts of the water seal (once i cleaned 40 years of shelf gunk off) appear new.
Possibly it was rebuilt.

Got a shot under the skirt super clean and its all PINK. There's a pinch in the drain hose but it straightens out when I change its position to drain.

Made a video on my ancient Motorola droid phone. I only recorded about 15 seconds. Poop.
So no video.

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