|
Thread Number: 63278
/ Tag: Ranges, Stoves, Ovens
Range Clock & Rotisserie motor Lube? |
[Down to Last] |  |
| Post# 858662 12/27/2015 at 18:54 (3,044 days old) by ken (NYS) | ||
So what would be best lube to use to lube the clock and rotisserie motor in my 67 GE? Both work fine but it would be a safe bet both are running on the original lube job. Would the 3-in-1 in the blue bottle be acceptable? I have that.
And as I believe I've read here I should heat them with a light bulb and place a drop on the stem and let it be drawn in? What wattage bulb and heat for how long? How much oil? | ||
|
Post# 858668 , Reply# 1 12/27/2015 at 19:24 (3,044 days old) by rp2813  (Sannazay) |
||
 Does the clock use a Telechron rotor? If so, then the blue 3-in-1 is correct. I think a 60 watt bulb is sufficient. Balance the rotor as level as possible with its small end on the bulb so the pinion gear is accessible on top, and turn on the light. Give it 30-60 minutes, then shut the bulb off and start adding oil on the pinion gear by the drop or two and wait for it to get sucked inside the housing before adding more. If the rotor hasn't been raspy or otherwise noisy, I would stop short of ten drops.
I'm not familiar with the rotisserie motor so can't advise on that one. | ||
| Post# 858818 , Reply# 2 12/28/2015 at 16:44 (3,043 days old) by sel8207 (naples, florida 34117) | ||
|
might this work Might this work for a 57 g.e. liberator clock that doesn't work at all, I mean in terms of getting it to start working again? les. | ||
|
Post# 858860 , Reply# 3 12/28/2015 at 21:21 (3,043 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
||
|
Might this work for a 57 g.e. liberator clock | ||
|
Post# 858903 , Reply# 4 12/29/2015 at 06:06 (3,043 days old) by kb0nes (Burnsville, MN) |
||
I'd probably use TriFlow, somehow 20 weight oil seems awful heavy for a clock motor. I use TriFlow (get a dropper bottle!) on all my bicycles and precision tools and it really performs well. Never been fond of any of the 3 in 1 products, they always seem to gum things up for me.
In any case a small drop of lube is better then none. If they are running fine now I can't see any need to heat them up. | ||
| Post# 858908 , Reply# 5 12/29/2015 at 08:25 (3,042 days old) by ken (NYS) | ||
|
| ||
|
Post# 858960 , Reply# 7 12/29/2015 at 12:54 (3,042 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
||
|
Phil is correct with his suggestion about if it ain't broke, don't fix it. If the rotor is running quietly, it doesn't need oiling. If you add oil to a rotor that doesn't need any, it can possibly bog down the rotor and cause it to run slowly.
The main reason you shut off the bulb is because heat makes things expand. As things contract during the cooling process after the bulb is off, it allows the small well around the pinion gear to suck in the oil. At least that's the theory as I understand it. Some rotors will suck the oil in quickly, others not so fast. This heating process works best on copper clad rotors, but I've had success with aluminum ones as well.
The other reason to turn the bulb off is plain and simple -- so you're not blinded while you're applying the drops of oil.
On the Telechron collectors' site, 3-in-1 in the blue bottle is what the experts there recommend. I think it's necessary to take into account the heat that's generated as the rotor operates, which I presume makes the blue 3-in-1 the preferred lube. I have clocks with bulb-treated rotors running in my unheated garage, and lately we have had temps down near freezing overnight. Those clocks are still keeping perfect time, as they have been for a few years since I repaired their rotors. As the Telechron ad copy used to state about their clocks, they can't run wrong.
| ||
|
Post# 858980 , Reply# 8 12/29/2015 at 15:53 (3,042 days old) by kb0nes (Burnsville, MN) |
||
|
Ralph,
My point wasn't to not add a little oil, the poor thing is nearly 50 years old, a drop or two is probably a good idea! What I was trying to convey is that seeing as how the thing runs, it won't take any hysterics to get a little lube in the bushings. If things were gummed up and stuck then maybe heat might help. As for the idea of 50 or 100 degrees making a difference in the dimensional tolerances in the parts, no that's not it. It will make the applied oil less viscous so yes it will wick better. I still think 20 weight is a bit thick for a clock motor, these things are slow and have precious little loading. Seeing as how Ken's clocks are still running, adding a little anything will likely make them happy for a long time. Strikes me as a perfect is the enemy of the very good kinda deal. | ||
| Post# 859013 , Reply# 9 12/29/2015 at 20:06 (3,042 days old) by ken (NYS) | ||
|
Here's some good info I found.
In checking further online I found a discussion forum with discussion recommending cleaning the old lube out first as it turns to sludge over time. They discuss creating a small hole in the top of the case by first grinding down the peak of the "nub" (of the three) opposite the drive pinion. Then use a small sharp punch or a small sharpened nail. Someone else mentioned using a small drill to make a hole anywhere in the top of the case. But you have to be careful as you don't want any drill shavings getting into the case. One guy mentioned using synthetic oil of wintergreen to break up the old sludge as that's not as harsh on the internals as a strong solvent might be. He uses a syringe to flush out the old oil. Relube with a PTFE based high-speed electric motor oil (1.5-2 cc). Seal the hole with solder or epoxy and restore the "nub" to its original height. CLICK HERE TO GO TO ken's LINK This post was last edited 12/29/2015 at 20:43 | ||
|
Post# 859033 , Reply# 10 12/29/2015 at 22:17 (3,042 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
||
|
| ||
| Post# 859094 , Reply# 11 12/30/2015 at 08:05 (3,041 days old) by ken (NYS) | ||
|
| ||
|
Post# 859122 , Reply# 12 12/30/2015 at 12:28 (3,041 days old) by pulltostart (Mobile, AL) |
||
|
This post has been removed by the member who posted it. | ||
|
Post# 859146 , Reply# 13 12/30/2015 at 16:14 (3,041 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay) |
||
|
Yeah Ken, I had to drill a couple of gummed up rotors and flush them out. I used a manual drill and went about it very slowly. The hole was just barely big enough to get one of those red tips for spray cans to fit over it (not through it). I had some carburetor cleaner on hand, so that's what I used. I gave the rotors some good shaking and when I let it drain back out of the hole, the fluid mixture was black.
I repeated the process a time or two, then followed up with WD-40, drained that, then added the 3-in-1.
Both rotors are still operational a few years later, one on a garage clock and one in the dining room. To patch the holes I used a small amount of that "miracle" putty material that heats up as you knead it in your fingers. I first tried a tiny square of foil tape, but that stuff can lose its adhesion if any oil at all makes contact with it.
Just FYI for future reference. | ||
|
Post# 859342 , Reply# 14 12/31/2015 at 18:01 (3,040 days old) by sudsmaster (SF Bay Area, California) |
||
 How cool.
Anybody remember when trepanning was all the rage? People used to swear by drilling holes in their heads (not kidding). They claimed all sorts of beneficial effects.
I don't think they were squiring oil of wintergreen or 3-in-1 oil in their noggins.
But you never know. I would lump those individuals into the same general category as those who split their tongues so they look more like snakes.
I wouldn't mind trepanning one of those Kit Kat Klocks, though. They totally creep me out!
| ||
| Forum Index: |
| Other Forums: |
|
|
|
|
|
Comes to the Rescue!
