Thread Number: 64725
/ Tag: Vintage Dishwashers
GE Plastisol to Perma-Tuf transition case history |
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Post# 873828   3/22/2016 at 10:24 (2,957 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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For those interested in the history behind GE's Perma-Tuf dishwasher this is a great read. Answers a lot of questions along with the thought behind Potscrubber II dishwashers. Starting on page 179:
books.google.com/booksQUESTIONMA... |
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Post# 873832 , Reply# 1   3/22/2016 at 11:09 (2,957 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)   |   | |
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Post# 873837 , Reply# 2   3/22/2016 at 11:49 (2,957 days old) by johnb300m (Chicago)   |   | |
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Post# 873847 , Reply# 3   3/22/2016 at 13:05 (2,957 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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I wonder the same. GE could have just ended plastisol tub production in the mid 60s and sold only the Hotpoint porcelain tub design while gradually introducing Perma-Tuf starting in the late 70s early 80s from BOL working on up. At least thats what they somewhat did in the 80s, as porcelain tub Hotpoint where still available up until 1991 or 1992.
The Hotpoints certainly were not perfect, but light years ahead in longevity. Around here there are dozens of hundred unit apartment/condo complexes from the 80s with porcelain tub BOL Hotpoints. Many still going 30 years latter. Those getting thrown out often have very little or limited rust on the inside. If anything its the seals or pump that give out rather then the tub itself with life expectancy comparable to mid 80s PermaTufs. The top racks were a poor design, but if the GE design was modified to fit those they really would have been admirable. GE does at times bite off more then they can chew, and as someone once told me "they are to smart for their own good" to which I can agree with. |
Post# 873910 , Reply# 4   3/22/2016 at 17:13 (2,957 days old) by cadman (Cedar Falls, IA)   |   | |
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I love GE, but they sure know how to squander a good thing. Or 'value-improve' a product to death.
People forget that at one time they accidentally stumbled into the computer business, designed and built some pretty decent mainframes that even had IBM running scared, and of course decided to only make a half-hearted attempt at keeping the business. The stories from the field engineers are cringe-worthy ; ) "Let's go to a cheaper plated screw to save a few cents in these 100-amp power supplies. Hmm, why are we having all these voltage spike failures? The design is the same." LOL. |
Post# 874003 , Reply# 5   3/23/2016 at 06:33 (2,956 days old) by joeypete (Concord, NH)   |   | |
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When I was a kid, we bought a house in 1987 that was built in the early 70's. It had what was probably the original GE dishwasher (in avocado green) with a porcelain enameled interior. That thing worked great despite having a huge rust spot on the inside of the door. I guess my parents weren't worried too much about it because they never replaced it. LOL. I don't remember how it cleaned though...
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Post# 874009 , Reply# 6   3/23/2016 at 06:58 (2,956 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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Post# 874010 , Reply# 7   3/23/2016 at 07:00 (2,956 days old) by joeypete (Concord, NH)   |   | |
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Post# 874013 , Reply# 8   3/23/2016 at 07:25 (2,956 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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Post# 874014 , Reply# 9   3/23/2016 at 07:32 (2,956 days old) by joeypete (Concord, NH)   |   | |
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Post# 874015 , Reply# 10   3/23/2016 at 07:47 (2,956 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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Post# 874017 , Reply# 11   3/23/2016 at 08:01 (2,956 days old) by turquoisedude (.)   |   | |
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Funnily enough, the Canadian-made GE dishwashers had porcelain tubs right into the late 1980s. My folks had a 1978 GE Contessa portable and my first house had a 1988 GE Potscrubber II, both of which had porcelain tubs. I have a feeling that the Canadian models were all based on the Hotpoint design (store brands Beaumark, and the 80s Vikings had porcelain tubs and were definitely Hotpoint-style machines). |
Post# 874029 , Reply# 12   3/23/2016 at 09:07 (2,956 days old) by MixGuy (St. Martinville, Louisiana)   |   | |
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I purchased a GE portable dishwasher having a white/light gray porcelain tub in 1983 that had 4 cycles and energy saving feature for heated dry (two other buttons). |
Post# 874035 , Reply# 13   3/23/2016 at 10:15 (2,956 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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Post# 874048 , Reply# 14   3/23/2016 at 11:46 (2,956 days old) by johnb300m (Chicago)   |   | |
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When I was a kid our house had an oooold GE with the fat steel wash arm and Plastisol interior. I remember my dad fixing several rust spots inside the sump with some kind of white epoxy. That was in the late 80s when the machine was already 10 years old.
That machine lasted until we moved in 1996! Other than being LOUD and rickety. That thing ran alllll those years. It looked like this: No features. Heat dry on or off. Dial Normal wash, short wash and rinse hold. But it had wood door inserts.
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Post# 874062 , Reply# 15   3/23/2016 at 12:53 (2,956 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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Post# 874064 , Reply# 16   3/23/2016 at 13:35 (2,956 days old) by johnb300m (Chicago)   |   | |
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Post# 874072 , Reply# 17   3/23/2016 at 15:31 (2,956 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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If Plastisol interior of dw is repaired promptly and well things generally tend to hold. My efforts on the Mobile Maid have served well going on over one year.
Of course the thing is to prevent tears and nicks in that lining from the start. This requires caution when loading/unloading anything with sharp edges like knives, forks, etc.... |
Post# 874073 , Reply# 18   3/23/2016 at 15:48 (2,956 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
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Post# 874076 , Reply# 19   3/23/2016 at 16:02 (2,956 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Much of the damage to Plastisol liners show the tell tale marks of cutlery. Slashes, gashes, that sort of thing.
Thank heaven today we have epoxies that are streets ahead of what was available then. JB Weld products are a godsend. Also think today's much less aggressive dishwasher detergents (formulated without heavy dosages of chlorine bleach) are easier on that plastic interior. |
Post# 874094 , Reply# 21   3/23/2016 at 18:10 (2,956 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Hi Joe, GE never had a drop door DW with a porclean interior with the exception of the low end rebadged Hotpoint style models that they started selling in the early 80s when GE switched their entire DW line to all plastic tub models. The main reason GE started selling these low end HP style porclean DWs was GE was worried about lousing builder sales because their DWs had an all plastic tub and they worried about acceptance with builders and consumers alike.
The one thing you can credit GE with is they put millions of built-in DWs into American homes, The US quickly had the highest percentage of homes that had DWs in the world and still has the highest percentage today.
The GE Plastic-sol DWs were cheap to build throughout the 60s-70s, the plastic-sol coated steel tubs were far cheaper to make than porclean on steel and saved GE hundreds of thousands of dollars in loses due to shipping and other handling damage due to chipped tubs that often caused entire new DWs to be scraped.
Stainless Steel was out of the question for home machines in the 60s due to cost and scarcity of nickle to make SS. The only company that made real SS DW tubs in the US was KA and it was a one hundred option only on their TOL models 15-18 series DWs. [ Thermador did build expensive SS DWs in the mid to late 60s, the TD-WK DWs that came later were not real SS ]
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Post# 874111 , Reply# 22   3/23/2016 at 19:04 (2,956 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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Post# 874126 , Reply# 23   3/23/2016 at 21:25 (2,955 days old) by Johnb300m (Chicago)   |   | |
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Post# 874138 , Reply# 25   3/23/2016 at 22:14 (2,955 days old) by jamiel (Detroit, Michigan and Palm Springs, CA)   |   | |
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A few observations...the Canadian design had as an uplevel option the enhanced filtering which was in the uplevel US permatuf machines...wasn't the same back-of-tub design, but was common. Note also the location of the silverware in a GE didn't rub the silverware against the tub side. Finally, the point here about the initial quality experience of plastisol being better...a cracked porcelain tub in shipping would be fatal...same shock on a plastisol tub would be unnoticeable.
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Post# 874142 , Reply# 26   3/23/2016 at 23:19 (2,955 days old) by gansky1 (Omaha, The Home of the TV Dinner!)   |   | |
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My mother's cousin had a BOL GE d/w with Plastisol, builder grade with dial lower on the door panel, below the latch/handle. Harvest gold, early 70's. She piled that machine full, never rinsed and loved the results. When it finally gave up she bought another GE, BOL with the HP porcelain tank and had no complaints. We had lots of big family dinners at their house, Bob would have been heaven. I was never as happy with the outcome of either of those GE normal cycles compared with our '81 Maytag Jetclean, but she was fine with it as were millions of people just happy to have a dishwasher in their new apartment.
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Post# 874159 , Reply# 27   3/24/2016 at 06:01 (2,955 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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Post# 874160 , Reply# 28   3/24/2016 at 06:03 (2,955 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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Post# 874161 , Reply# 29   3/24/2016 at 06:17 (2,955 days old) by joeypete (Concord, NH)   |   | |
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Post# 874190 , Reply# 30   3/24/2016 at 09:35 (2,955 days old) by johnb300m (Chicago)   |   | |
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Post# 874217 , Reply# 31   3/24/2016 at 13:19 (2,955 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
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Post# 874231 , Reply# 32   3/24/2016 at 14:22 (2,955 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Normal: WRWRRD
China/Crystal: RWRRD Pots/Pans: WRWRRD On the last two heating element is shut off after five minutes of drying. Normal gives 22 minutes of heating drying. China/Crystal skips first wash by asking user to turn dial past that mark. Since the detergent dispenser is only tripped for main wash in theory first "wash" could be a rinse if nothing is added. Have to dig out my Hotpoint under counter convertible and built in service/parts manuals to see their cycles. |
Post# 874241 , Reply# 33   3/24/2016 at 15:51 (2,955 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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Is was W-R-R-MW-R-R:
products.geappliances.com/Marketi... It then went to W-R-R-MW-R-R-R in the late 80s: products.geappliances.com/Marketi... Why GE eliminated one of post main wash rinses on all porcelain tubs and Permatufs between 1979 and 1987 is one of the biggest mysteries in my book. (I really wonder about it lol) It looks like it was a water conservation attempt only to maybe have customers complain of detergent residue? |
Post# 874243 , Reply# 34   3/24/2016 at 15:53 (2,955 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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Post# 874270 , Reply# 35   3/24/2016 at 17:48 (2,955 days old) by neptunebob (Pittsburgh, PA)   |   | |
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Post# 874289 , Reply# 36   3/24/2016 at 19:38 (2,955 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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Post# 874323 , Reply# 38   3/25/2016 at 03:59 (2,954 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)   |   | |
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Remember these GE dishwashers only heated the water for main wash cycle *and* the heating unit wasn't very powerful (hence the poor drying of later models). Nor did they have built in food disposers (macerators). Finally they had to make due with the very caustic but lacking enzyme detergents of the period.
For main wash cycle the first "wash" used incoming tap water of 140F-160F, however that water would have been tempered by the cold water sitting in sump (from last cycle) and the cold interior of dw and dishes themselves. This combined with detergent would help to shift protein soils before temps of subsequent cycles cooked them onto dishes. The second cycle (rinse) helped remove more soil and flush away debris. By the time of main event (wash cycle) the unit was sufficiently heated that incoming water would remain (more or less) at required temperature for the duration of short wash cycle. The heaters in these Mobile Maids is at best to keep water temps from dropping. The main wash is too short and heater too puny for it to raise temps that much if any. The next two short rinses do just that; carry away soil, detergent, muck, etc.. with the last adding rinse agent to promote drying. According to my copies of Hotpoint parts and service manuals (from the 1960's) techs were warned against substituting a higher wattage (more powerful) heating element due to risk of damaging the Plastisol liner. Consumer Reports of the 1950's gave GE dishwashers very good ratings for cleaning, but poor for drying. |
Post# 874348 , Reply# 39   3/25/2016 at 07:43 (2,954 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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The first rinse is actually intended as a wash if you read the operating instructions, there is also a pre-wash detergent cup next to the closed cup to help the user to measure detergent for the pre-wash.
IMEO it is never a good idea to run a DW with soiled dishes and no detergent, it just leads to strange gunky build-ups in hidden areas of the DW.
All the GE-HP-GE MM models being discussed in this thread DO have soft-food-disposers built into the pump assembles.
John L. |
Post# 874355 , Reply# 40   3/25/2016 at 09:09 (2,954 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains)   |   | |
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Multiple rinses - both before the main wash as well as after. Laundress has already described the logic behind the pre-wash rinses. There's a set of reasons for the post-wash rinses, too. BOL GE had neither filters nor 'power showers', just a bottom wash arm and a tower-of-power with a special top part which, under proper conditions, distributed enough water straight up into a special molding to splash a little bit onto the glasses and bowls on the upper rack. One ill-placed bowl, cup, whatever and that third level 'wash' was gone. So - yibblets and ick all over the place. The three rinses often as not got enough clear water splashed around to remove them. Second reason, dangerous to consume as today's detergents are, the chlorine bleach/extremely caustic detergents of that era really needed to be gone from your cooking and eating utensils. The design of the GE sump is such that there's a fair amount of water left in it from each previous cycle. Not the liter which some hysterical anti-GE fanatics claim, but enough that the first rinse after the wash wasn't a rinse, it was a second (third if you count pre-wash) wash. Just a short, weak wash, but a wash none-the-less. So, you really have one clear rinse and one heated (more or less) final rinse with rinse-aid. Something the eco-freaks also forget: This water is not hard to treat, it's easy as pie to 'recycle' at the water treatment plant. The only way to (just barely) get by with one single rinse is with a system of brilliant filters, perfect spray distribution and really hot wash/rinse such as the real KitchenAides had.
A 500 watt element will heat the water during a potscrubber cycle about 10 degrees. That's the whole amount! These machines were running 11 to 18 minutes (correct me if I'm wrong) short of that, the most the element could do was to keep the water at the incoming temperature.
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Post# 874372 , Reply# 41   3/25/2016 at 11:39 (2,954 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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GEs always had a strange timing sequence, even in the 70s which I will get to. The multiple water change outs were for three reasons imo: carry over water, no filter and temperature. GE machines always had the highest carry over water for vintage machines and still do to this day for modern ones. The carry over lowers water temperature and brings over extra soil/detergent residue to the new fill, so extra water is required to compensate. Over the years GE reduced the size of the sump inlet (plastisol machines had massive sunken inlets), smaller sump boots and smaller pump bodies in an effort to lower the total water usage.
Heres where it gets strange. First, GE has always stated the extra open detergent cup was for a Pre-wash, however GE machines in most cases had a very short first prewashes with the following ones actually being much longer. For example, mid 80s porcelain Hotpoints had a 1 1/2 minute prewash (end of fill to pull in of drain solenoid), while the second prewash was 3 1/2 minutes long. The 3rd before the main wash was 1 1/2 minutes long. It always boggled my mind why the mid prewash was the longest. Early to mid 80s BOL Perma-Tufs had 3 equal 2 minute prewashes before the main wash. However in the late 80s the sequence was tweaked. GE made the first prewash 3 1/2 minutes long, the second one 1 1/2 minutes with a reduced fill. So far so good and it makes sense. However, get this, the 3rd prewash is 4 1/2 minutes long... By then most of the detergent has been flushed out, so why make this the longest prewash? Why not have the 4 1/2 minute prewash at the start? Better yet why not have the first prewash at 5 1/2 minutes and then have the other two 1 1/2 minutes just to flush everything out while bring the machine up to temp? Also interesting is the rinse paradox which I guess was a failed attempt at water conservation. In the 70s GE machines had 7 water change outs in normal cycle with each fill around 2.5 gallons. Then starting with their porcelain Hotpoints it went down to 6 water change outs and each fill was reduced to about 1.9 gallons for a total water usage around 11.4 gallons per cycle. This then carried on to their first model C Perma-Tufs. In the late 80s GE made a change. First, their Perma-Tufs added an third partial post main wash rinse. I say partial, because it was only a 45 second fill rather then the typical 64-66 second fill with a rapid pump out after. If anything it was simply like a purge. They then took 2 seconds away from each fill, and made the second prewash fill 56 minutes. IMO this was to shift water consumption to the added rinse. 5 fills were shortened by 2 seconds giving a total bought time of 10 seconds; the 2nd prewash from 66 to 56 giving 10 seconds so in total 20 seconds of fill time removed from all 6 fills. 15 seconds were added to those 20 seconds to give a 45 second post main wash rinse (purge). Assuming a fill rate of about 0.0287 gallons per second, 15 seconds adds an extra 0.43 gallons of water. This brought the total water usage from 11.4 gallons to 12.1 gallons on the late 80s Perma-Tufs. For the porcelain Hotpoints they simply shifted one prewash to the post main wash rinse give a sequence of W-R-MW-R-R-R at 11 gallons of water, latter shortened a bit to 10.7 gallons in the earlly 90s before finally being discontinued. In order to compensate for the extra rinse and extended prewash times on the Perma-Tufs, they took 5 minutes away from the dry time. In fact, normally the heater contact opens during the pump out, but they omitted that so drying can take a head start. The motor on earlly Perma-tufs shut off at about 51 minutes and then 57 minutes on the latter versions. Those extra 5 minutes of drying really made the difference. I guess GE then had complaints about drying as there late 90s models all got their 35 minute dry time back. Anyway, to support everything I said here are the cycle sequences to a GSD500D, GSD500G, and a 1985 BOL porcelain Hotpoint. |
Post# 874373 , Reply# 42   3/25/2016 at 11:40 (2,954 days old) by chetlaham (United States)   |   | |
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