2 screws, a couple of wires, and a hose and clamp are what you need to deal with.

Thanks, Gordon!

You've got more than one thing going on Floyde... You should be able to turn the water off to the machine completely, so I'd suggest you call a plumber to have that situation looked at right away regardless of what we do with the washer. You have a flood risk if the water was all the way turned off.

Thanks for the model number, unfortunately that is the very first of the 1970 LK models, and it hadn't yet started to use the two coil very common valve, so we're stuck trying to find a very NLA 89867 three coil, non-thermostatic valve, OR your existing one needs to be cleaned and rebuilt, etc. There is either grit in both the house valve(s) and the washer valve, or something is deteriorating them to the point they are unable to stop water flow.

You need to figure out a way to get the water off, or you risk a flood because what is now a very slow drip may not stay that way. Once that is taken care of, perhaps John L or one of the other members here knows if a six-wire, three coil valve set-up can be converted into a four-wire two valve arrangement? I have never done that so I am unsure what would happen in trying to make that swap. Might need to check the search-olator to see if we've discussed that before.

Are you able to raise the top and take a picture of the valve in the left corner of the cabinet?


Get the house valves looked at Floyde!

Gordon

Very cool washer, Hi Floyd, the inlet valve can be rebuilt, you could even send it to me if you like. The last time I was at Modern Parts in Ohio they still had new valves in stock for these washers.

Or you can substitute the two coil valve Gordon mentioned [ I did this many times in the field ] To use the two coil valve you just connect the hot valve wire to hot on the new valve and you jump the cold and warm valve wires together and connect to the cold coil on the new valve.

With the two coil valve installed this way in your washer when the washer calls for hot water you will still get an all hot water fill, when the washer calls for medium you will get a warm wash fill, and anytime the washer calls for warm or cold water fill you will get all cold water.

Actually many users found this an improvement as these machines used a lot of hot as as they were originally manufactured.

And do get your homes shut-off valves for the washer replaced, you should be able to easily and instantly shut off the water to your washer.

John L.

If I get the part if any members in LA area can install I would be happy to pay the same I would pay a service technician to handle it. I'm not handy at all.

Floyd, the hot & cold water supply hoses connect TO the inlet valve at the back of the machine.

2 small bolts secure the inlet valve to the cabinet from the back where the hoses attach.

There are also 6 (color coded?) wires that connect to the valve, along with 1 hoses, which is accessed from INSIDE the washer (circled in RED below).

#1. Push the washer away from the wall so you can access the back of it.

#2. Unplug the washer, turn off the water and disconnect the hot & cold supply hoses.

#3. Beg, borrow or steal a 3/8" wrench or socket & ratchet OR a crescent wrench from someone and remove the 2 bolts (near where the hoses connect).

#4. Lift the lid of the washer like you did to take the photo and either have your partner hold it, or use a stick to hold it up.

#5.  Reach inside to the water inlet valve (circled in RED) and disconnect the hose from the valve.   If you cannot disconnect it at the valve, then using pliers, remove the clamp and carefully remove the hose at the tub (circled in BLUE).

#6.  Next, remove each the 6 wires from the inlet valve, BUT make note of what color wire is connected to which valve, this is very important!    It may require a little effort, but grip the connector and pull each wire away from the valve (while wiggling slightly) to slide the connector off.

#7. Remove the valve from the washer, take a photo and post it here.  I'm sure someone will be able to suggest how to proceed from here.   You can also try taking the valve to an appliance repair / parts store to see of they have a replacement.   If they do not have a 3 valve replacement (most likely) you can use a 2 valve replacement and connect the wires as John L (Combo52) outlined above.

TO RE-INSTALL THE VALVE Reverse these steps outlined above.

I know you are not handy (or willing to try) but if you follow the steps above, YOU CAN DO IT!

Kevin

What you performed, did not clean the valve. Just a coincidence that it stopped leaking.

Wow, a cream-puff repair on an almost 50 year old washer.  That probably doesn't mean much if you aren't handy in the first place, but having to simply change out a valve and replace a faucet washer...... ohhh,  if only the rest of life could be so easy.

To think of it, If this were my situation to deal with, it wouldn't even be considered a repair.  It would be almost thoughtlessly referred to as an "adjustment".  I guess I need to give myself more credit.  

There may have been a piece of calcium or rust in the valve, keeping it from closing completely. 

I've seen that happen.  You should check the wire screens inside the valves.  When you removed the hoses from the back of the washer, you can see if the screens are dirty or intact.  If they are missing, you should replace them.  Those screens keep large particles from getting into the valve body.  

Video on how to check/clean or replace screens. 

Another suggestion for you: if you are frequently leaving the house for several days or weeks at a time, I would turn off my water main, and gas when you leave.  Especially in an earthquake prone area.  It will give you piece of mind and may save your house from a flood or fire when you aren't there to do anything to protect your home.

I had a weekend home a while back, with a well pump.  I wired in a double throw switch for the double pole circuit that controlled the pump and had it installed right next to the door where it was easy to access.

If I had city water, I would have an easy to operate ball valve installed in an easy to access area, and use that to shut off and on the water.

It's also not a good idea to leave an electric water heater on when gone from the house.

Hi Floyd, glad your machine is working now, I have found in life that it is amazing how often something mechanical starts working again on its own.

But that said it is fairly likely to have a reacurrence of this problem. Your washer has a 45 YO inlet valve, it likely needs new rubber seats or a complete inlet valve if it shows any additional signs of problems.

Delaney's suggestion of being sure that the metal inlet valve screens are in place is a good one. The video he posted about cleaning the valve screens does not apply to your washer. Your washer has metal SS inlet screens, and SS valve screes should NOT be removed for cleaning unless you have the proper tool to reinstall without bending or distorting them which makes them useless after they get even slightly bent.

John L.