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Thread Number: 64820
/ Tag: Wringer Washers
Maytag Wringers... All You Need to Know! |
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Post# 874748 , Reply# 1 3/28/2016 at 21:23 (2,962 days old) by Kenmore71  (Minneapolis, MN) |
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I have a lot of questions as some of your information is just wrong.
1. Buy whatever model you want. Every model has its plusses and minuses. The E was likely the most popular and always the most expensive in the Maytag wringer line-up. 2. The cast tub was abandoned in about 1950 for the spun aluminum tub. There are VERY few remaining Es and E2s with cast tubs remaining but there are likely tens of thousands of post-1950 machines out there with spun tubs that are just fine. They were not any more prone to pitting than the cast tubs. All aluminum tubs CAN and DO pit. 3. Maytag switched from the cast aluminum agitator (gyrator) in mid-1949 when they introduced their automatic washer line which also featured a red bakelite agitator. The black bakelite agitator came in 1955 and the turquoise polypropylene agitator came in 1966. 4. This is true. 5. The Maytag wringer time did release the gyrator lever and left the motor running. If the motor is running you can always start the wringer by pushing the lever. You did not need to reset the timer in order to start the wringer. 6. Installing a toggle switch certainly makes some sense from a practical point of of view, but it does alter the appearance of the machine. Personally, the sight of such an addition would make me cringe. Any sort of external switch box would do the same thing without altering the machine. | ||
| Post# 874801 , Reply# 2 3/29/2016 at 10:45 (2,961 days old) by e2l-arry (LAKEWOOD COLORADO) | ||
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Having refurbished my own E2LP that was manufactured in 1964 and using it for 4 years, I 100% agree with Kenmore71. | ||
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Post# 874855 , Reply# 4 3/29/2016 at 16:01 (2,961 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.) |
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I totally agree with Geoff in reply #3, especially about the Model J. I've used both the J and E models and I much prefer the J for the same reasons as Geoff stated. If I had the set up for a wringer I would definately have one and probably use it exclusively. I find the whole process of doing laundry in a wringer to be very relaxing, and almost "Zen" like. And the added bonus is that you can get a full weeks wash done in just about an hr. Drying does take a little longer because wringers do leave more water than spinning, but to me it would be worth it.
Eddie This post was last edited 03/29/2016 at 16:56 | ||
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Post# 874858 , Reply# 5 3/29/2016 at 16:43 (2,961 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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Having dealt with an aluminum tub in the Hoover TT
Would likely choose porcelain tub wringer washer if one was going to purchase.
Metals react with many common laundry day chemicals such as bleaches and various alkaline substances. This could make prolonged soaking in a metal tub wringer or one with an agitator of same not a good idea. It took just one wash using some vintage Cheer detergent (with colour-guard) to dull the once shiny as new tub of the Hoover. As for the balance of the OP's post do not believe it is fair nor wise to bounce in here with proclamations and laying down laws. Especially when there are members who have been using/around Maytag wringer washers since they were out of short pants (if not before), and either still use them today or at least recently. Then you have to add those who worked in sales and repair of same. Maytag obviously built three different models of washers to suit various markets. It must have worked because they were the market leader for conventional washers for almost their entire duration of production. For the record Maytag produced various wringer washers pre-1940 that held the same or so as those made afterwards. Oh and according to my sources the Model "E" was introduced in 1939. www.maytagclub.com/page-16.htm... Did it ever occur to the OP that the reason Maytag went with the push/pull knob was that women could stop the machine with their knees? Wet/soapy hands, having a child in one's arms, an emergency, etc... all reasons why the beauty of being able to shut off the motor with one jab of the knee would be welcome. Since these washers by and large were not grounded can foresee all sorts of disasters if someone with wet hands reached down and touched a toggle switch if there was stray current roaming about the washer. | ||
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Post# 874907 , Reply# 7 3/29/2016 at 21:30 (2,961 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.) |
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Geoff | ||
| Post# 875072 , Reply# 8 3/30/2016 at 23:28 (2,960 days old) by bradross (New Westminster, BC., Canada) | ||
Regarding capacity and Gyrafoam action ... 
Capacity -
As some of you know, I have two vintage 1935 Model 30s and a 1977 Model E2LP. Geoff has posted the capacity in past posts and if memory serves me correctly, the Model 30 is 17 gallons and the Models E and J are 18 gallons. Not much of a capacity difference. The Model N is a 16 gallon capacity, being the smallest of all models. Gyrafoam Action - I use my Model 30WP most frequently and the updated "convex" aluminum gyratator does the same amazing job as the later aluminum or Bakelite versions in Models 32L/E/J/N. I believe the very early models of the "30", as well as the older Models "80", "90", and "A" had a "concave" gyratator that wasn't quite as effective. However, even those original versions do a good job of roll-over. The annoying thing about the earlier version is that it holds water in the four cavities, and when you remove it from the tub it can spill on the floor (speaking from experience, when I give demos of the Model 90 that I restored at the railway museum!) The photo shows the "concave" gyratator on the left, and the updated "convex" version on the right (standard for later models 30 and 32).
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Post# 875725 , Reply# 10 4/5/2016 at 17:46 (2,954 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage) |
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If by Bendix
We are speaking of front loading type of washer, well it wouldn't give good results would it? Problem was soap was still the dominate laundry "detergent" and that substance does not play well in H-Axis washing machines.
It is worth noting commercial/industrial laundries used soap and H-Axis washing machines, but they got much better results. This usually could be put down to more control over the cycles including timing, and the ability of steam heated water and or nearly unlimited supplies of hot to boiling. | ||
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Post# 875762 , Reply# 11 4/5/2016 at 21:41 (2,954 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor, Maine) |
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Post# 875783 , Reply# 12 4/6/2016 at 07:01 (2,954 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Locked Up MT WW Transmission There may not be a way to repair it without taking it apart and at the very least seals and possibly other parts.
The most likely area these size up is the agitator shaft seals get worn and let a little water into the gear case. If you think this might be the case you could try turning the washer up-side-down for at least a few weeks in the warmest area possible and [ maybe ] some oil will get into the agitator shaft bushings and you might be able to get it loose enough to run again.
Good Luck, John L. | ||
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