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Post# 886325   6/21/2016 at 16:18 (2,865 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        

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Now here are some questions for any helpful expert. First off, I need to connect the thing to power.

 

The machine has been working on a US  20 amp, 250 volt, 60 Hz. circuit(the kind used for large powerful air conditioners) for 20 years even though it is officially rated at 50 Hz.. Martin (the husband) assured me that the machine operates on both and he fitted it with one of those plugs that looks like an emoticon winking at you with mouth open. I assume it's two hot poles with a ground pin.

My question that you might be able to answer for me if you'd be so kind is: can I just adapt my 220 volt, 30 amp dryer outlet (3 pole) to this kind of plug to operate this machine, or am I going to have to hire an electrician to run a whole new line from the box? I've fashioned many adapters successfully by taking dryer cords and attaching female outlets to the dryer ends of the cords and that's what I'm hoping I can do with this one. I guess my worry is that the 30 amp circuit might be too much for the Miele because they seem to be rated at 20 amps. What do I do with the neutral wire?

 

This German model is outfitted with a special electrical cold water inlet hose that automatically shuts off the flow of water when the machine finishes the cycle. It's their idea of a fail-safe to prevent a laundry room flood.  According to the owner, they kept this hose attached to the unit, even though they by-passed the whole thing because if they disconnected it, the machine read it as an error and didn't work.

 


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Post# 886326 , Reply# 1   6/21/2016 at 16:20 (2,865 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        

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Of course the manual is in German and I am translating it page by page with the help of Google translate (so much appliance jargon that the translater has NO CLUE to). There are two pressing questions that I'd like to put to y'all:

 

First, is there a secret way to open the door when the machine is unplugged?


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Post# 886328 , Reply# 2   6/21/2016 at 16:23 (2,865 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        

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Second question, I have pictured here the dispenser drawer and I am aware that the compartment on the RH side is for pre-wash detergent, the compartment on the LH side is for main wash detergent and that the horizontal compartment at the front is for fabric softener, but what's the little wheel with the numbers 1-4 do? Is it some way to change the amount of water that goes into the rinse dispenser? Is it a reminder of how many children are in the house???


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Post# 886331 , Reply# 3   6/21/2016 at 16:39 (2,865 days old) by luxflairguy (Wilmington NC)        
New to you Miele!

I'll answer both questions! See the little door down at the bottom on the left? Put a flathead screwdriver in the right side and swing the door out. You'll see a gray or yellow pull thingy in there. Pull it down and the door will swing open with a snap!
The little dial on the fabric softener lets you decide how little or how much fabric softener you want to use. Mine's at one, but I have never ever used fabric softener in my life! Greg




Post# 886332 , Reply# 4   6/21/2016 at 16:39 (2,865 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

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1. Yes, behind the little flap/door at the bottom there is a latch (sort of a ring where you can put your finger in) that you can use to open the door in case of an emergency. Sometimes you can't see it, on my Miele it's always hiding on the right, behind the front panel.

2. The little wheel does nothing. You can set it to remember the hardness of the water, but it isn't connected to anything. There are only a few models that have this wheel, soon after the introduction Miele changed the layout of the detergent drawer and the wheel disappeared as fast as it came.


Post# 886333 , Reply# 5   6/21/2016 at 16:42 (2,865 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

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BTW, it's perfectly OK to use a 20 Amps machine on a 30 Amps circuit. The other way around would lead to overheating of the circuit and the wires.

Post# 886335 , Reply# 6   6/21/2016 at 16:59 (2,865 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)        

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Ken, CONGRATULATIONS on the new-to-you Miele, I'm sure you will enjoy it!

 

I can't answer your question about wiring a different plug.   But I can tell the washer will work fine on a 20, 30, 40, 50 amp circuit, it's makes no difference, the washer will only pull as much power as it needs.   However it's better to have it on a 20, 25 or 30 amp circuit, because if something goes wonky and it starts drawing more current than it's supposed to, the breaker will trip and you'll know something is wrong. 

 

Congrats again and good luck!

Kevin

 

 


Post# 886337 , Reply# 7   6/21/2016 at 17:16 (2,865 days old) by luxflairguy (Wilmington NC)        

Louis! You're right! Its been years since I opened my literature!

Post# 886339 , Reply# 8   6/21/2016 at 17:49 (2,865 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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My Miele actually has a big dryer type plug on it from the factory.  You could make an adapter for it using a dryer cord and attaching it to the proper receptacle on the other end or you could change the plug itself to fit the dryer outlet.


Post# 886349 , Reply# 9   6/21/2016 at 19:19 (2,865 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Power Requirements For Your New Miele Washer

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It will run fine on your 240 volt [ you do not have 220 volts ] 30 amp circuit BUT you should add extra fuses for 20 amps for greatest safety. The neutral just becomes a cabinet ground.

 

If the machine was not modified for 60 cycle power it will tumble and spin 15% faster and while this can be a good thing for the spin cycle it may tumble too fast for best washing, but really no 24" washer really cleans as well as FL washers with diameter larger tubs where you get a higher drop. I have had a 1984 German 24" Frigidaire branded washer [ this is a German labeled cold water supply only machine ] at my W Va house for more than 20 years and it works OK, but it has always tumbled too fast, the clothing really clings to the cylinder.


Post# 886353 , Reply# 10   6/21/2016 at 19:37 (2,865 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

The tumbling speed thing is true for a dryer without speed control of any sorts, but these washers have variable speed motors (though I'm not sure how they managed it). Thus, the electronics should regulate the speeds accordingly...

Post# 886365 , Reply# 11   6/21/2016 at 23:09 (2,865 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI)        

It may be easier to simply change the cord than finding a matching outlet.  Kind of a toss up, either way it will work.  Enjoy the machine!


Post# 886366 , Reply# 12   6/21/2016 at 23:55 (2,865 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

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There are two speeds in every tumble spequence and a pause, IIRC every 30 seconds which is regulated by the electronics in your machine. 40 rpm for wetting and 55 rpm for cleaning. I don't think this is affected by the 60 cycle power. But if it does, you will get 48 rpm and 66 rpm, the 48 rpm will still give a decent tumble. On 66 rpm the clothes might stick to the side of the drum a bit, but I don't expect this to happen.



This post was last edited 06/22/2016 at 00:43
Post# 886392 , Reply# 13   6/22/2016 at 08:40 (2,864 days old) by miele_ge (Danbury, Connecticut)        
still have the dryer here and 1918 washer if you want them

miele_ge's profile picture
Just let me know.

Congrats.


Post# 886400 , Reply# 14   6/22/2016 at 09:42 (2,864 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
Good information

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Big thanks to all of you who've chimed in and I will keep you posted.

 

Here's an illustration of exactly what I have and what I'm planning on doing with the cord. I understand that with a conventional 240V, 30amp US dryer connection you have two hot leads, one red, one black each 120v that add up to 240 and that the dryer can use them singly with the neutral lead to power the electrics, or doubly to power the heating coils, but I don't quite remember whether that white neutral lead can be used as a ground? My question still, (even though a couple of you have answered it) is whether I connect the green ground wire on the Miele to the white neutral on the US connection, or whether I just tape off the white lead, and connect the green wire on the Miele to another ground such as a cold water pipe?


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Post# 886416 , Reply# 15   6/22/2016 at 11:09 (2,864 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

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Green wire gets connected to white wire


Post# 886572 , Reply# 16   6/23/2016 at 09:35 (2,863 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        

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Thank you John.


Post# 887071 , Reply# 17   6/26/2016 at 19:15 (2,860 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
Here we go!

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Well, the adapter cord, after several false moves, is ready for action:


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Post# 887072 , Reply# 18   6/26/2016 at 19:16 (2,860 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
First test

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Plugged the male end into the dryer outlet; still alive and nothing has tripped or sparked:


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Post# 887073 , Reply# 19   6/26/2016 at 19:17 (2,860 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
Take the second step

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Plugged the Miele into the female end; still alive, machine is dormant and waiting:


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Post# 887074 , Reply# 20   6/26/2016 at 19:18 (2,860 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
Eureka!

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Set the dial for my first "Kochwasche" and she starts up without a hitch!


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Post# 887075 , Reply# 21   6/26/2016 at 19:22 (2,860 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
My first Miele load since 1978

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My usual load of white towels and I'm thrilled. Fills with cold water but after 20 minutes the glass in the porthole is hot to the touch. What an elegant little machine. Now I know how "Normal Boys"(as my dear father would say), feel when they drive home their first Porsche. Right now it's working on it's last rinse and getting ready for that 1600 rpm "schleudlern". I'm really going to need some help from some of you German speakers. Google translate does not recognize appliance terms.

 

Thanks to everybody for your help and advice!


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Post# 887116 , Reply# 22   6/27/2016 at 06:54 (2,859 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
Worth the money, if you have it.

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This is truly No-Fucking-Around-Laundering; I am impressed. Those German engineers consulted my Grandmother before they designed this washer.

 

If this thing were twice as large as it is, it would be the perfect washing machine.

 

Now that the virgin load is done, a couple of questions:

 

  1. What's the deal with chlorine bleach and Mieles? Will Clorox really damage the machine, as the manuals say? What if I want to use a little of it to sanitize the interior?
  2. When the machine came to the end of the cycle and the countdown reached "0", the machine didn't turn off by itself. It continued to tumble the wash periodically(I don't exactly know how long; I got distracted) and the display remained on for at least 1 hour. I guess there are designed for the user to manually turn the machine off when laundry is done?

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Post# 887120 , Reply# 23   6/27/2016 at 07:59 (2,859 days old) by miele_ge (Danbury, Connecticut)        
i think i can answer your questions

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1. I think the LCB prohibition is due to the high temps the machine is capable of. Cannot imagine bringing a solution of LCB to a near boil would be good for the air or components of the machine. I have had Miele laundry for around 16 years and have never had the need for LCB. The temps reached in the Kochwasche cycle will certainly sanitize the machine as well as remove stains, and I have never had a mold problem or funky smell in either machine. I only use Persil powder detergents and no FS.

2. My 1986 will tumble the load for a time (I think its about an hour but not sure) to prevent creasing after the wash is complete. You shouldn't have to do anything special other than take the laundry out of the machine when finished. I don't usually turn off the power switch, but you can.

Glad you got it up and running. You are right, there is really no comparison to these 220 Volt Miele machines!

I still have that dryer waiting for a mate - it is free for the taking.

Alan


Post# 887123 , Reply# 24   6/27/2016 at 08:15 (2,859 days old) by aussie-plugs (Melbourne, Australia)        
German/English

The buttons left to right are:
Door
On/Off
Soak
Pre-Wash
"Water-plus" (higher water level?)
Short (wash)

The lights next to the time display indicate what time it's showing. The top one is:
Delayed Start time (probably hours/minutes until cycle starts - no idea what you press to set this time though)
The lower one is:
Remaining time (until end of cycle)

Perhaps the button between these lights and the display determines which you're seeing, but I wonder how you set the desired delayed start?

"Schleudern" is to spin. You can select the speed, or "Spuelstop" (pause after final rinse with water in tub", or "ohne Endschleudern" (without final spin), which probably just drains at the end, without spinning

I really can't read the "Ablauf" column of lights/labels, but I'm happy to give it a go if you upload a clearer photo.

In the meantime, keep having fun with your new machine. It looks great!

Nick


Post# 887128 , Reply# 25   6/27/2016 at 08:53 (2,859 days old) by vacbear58 (Sutton In Ashfield, East Midlands, UK)        
Miele

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I can only reinforce what Alan and Nick have already said. My Miele washer is rather newer but I can add a couple more points:

Soak is presented as a more ecological alternative to pre-wash - it may be possible to re-programme the length, mine is as it came from the factory at two hours. I don't think I have used prewash once in the 12 years I have had my machine, nor the short option - I now use the soak occasionally, particularly on whites, in my former, all electric home I used it regularly to delay the "proper" start to the wash till after the cheap, night rate, electric tariff kicked in.

I normally use the "water plus" option to assist with rinsing. If you live in a soft water area you will be amazed how little detergent you need - I have soft water and a full whites load will come out spotless with one (UK Persil) gel pod.

You really should not need to use LCB in your wash with heating the water from cold and the occasional use of high temperature washes should put paid to any sanatise concerns you might have. I use mine as follows:

Shirts - permanent press 40 degrees
Colourfast Cottons (inc. socks) cottons 40 degrees
Whites: T shirts & underwear - cottons 60 degrees
Bedding - depending on whether its white or coloured these usually get included in the whites or coloured loads - as I live alone they help make up a full load.
Towels - 75 degree - i dont actually consider I need to wash them this hot but it my way of doing a "maintenance" wash for the machine.

If I want a quicker wash for any reason I will normally use one of the permanent press cycles and, if necessary, give the clothes an extra spin afterwards as it only has a short spin.

If you make sure you dry the door boot and leave the door and drawer open for a couple of hours after you have finished the laundry you should have no mould issues.

I wonder if the button to the right of the time display is to set the delayed start?

I am glad you are pleased with your Miele washer, i hope you get many years use from it

Al


Post# 887139 , Reply# 26   6/27/2016 at 10:01 (2,859 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        
German translation

Cycle groups, clockwise direction:
Cottons\Normal
Permanent Press\Easy Care
Delicates
Wool
Mini\Quick
Starching
Extra Spin
Drain
Extra Rinse

Spin Speeds:
As labeled
Rinse Hold (Interim spins, but pauses before the final spin; spinning either by moving the selector to the desired spin speed or selecting Extra Spin)
No spin (That means no spins at all)

Options right to left:
Short
Water Plus
Prewash
Soak (should be 2 hours)
Power
Door

The time delay is selected via that unlabeled button.

The cycle status lights top to bottom are:
On
Prewash\Soak
Main Wash
Rinse 1/2
Rinse 3 (and 4, I think)
Rinse Hold
Drain
Spin
Crease Guard \ End


The most bottom 2 indicators are the water intake \ drain alerts. The PC one is the optical interface for service technicians.

Temperarures can be transfered via Google. C in F.


Post# 887141 , Reply# 27   6/27/2016 at 10:05 (2,859 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        
LCB

Usually not needed, but we used it at all temperature ranges without problems. There is a syphon-type design integrated in the pipe between the drawer and the tub, thus there is some seperation there. But if you use LCB, you will get some smell of it for sure.

Post# 887153 , Reply# 28   6/27/2016 at 11:56 (2,859 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        

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Is there a way to get a reading of the actual water temperature that's in the tub?


Post# 887171 , Reply# 29   6/27/2016 at 13:43 (2,859 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

No, not without a probe or something, but this series will reach basicly any temp you set spot on...

Post# 887183 , Reply# 30   6/27/2016 at 16:16 (2,859 days old) by miele_ge (Danbury, Connecticut)        
Henrik, question for you

miele_ge's profile picture
Do you have a dispenser for LCB on your Miele? Both of mine (1918 and 1986) do not. I do know that the 110 volt machines made for the US market do allow for LCB and have a dispenser for it.

If you don't have a dispenser, do you add it via the soap compartments or into the tub itself?

Regards,

Alan


Post# 887190 , Reply# 31   6/27/2016 at 16:40 (2,859 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

We had a W961 until a few years ago.

There was no dispenser. Either it was used seperatly during the prewash or if incorporated in the main wash, I added it via the drawer and flushed it with a bit of water, but only after the detergent was flushed in.


Post# 887546 , Reply# 32   6/30/2016 at 09:11 (2,856 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        

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One more question for the European Miele experts. I think "spulstop" means "rinse stop", but I'm wondering what this button does:


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Post# 887549 , Reply# 33   6/30/2016 at 09:24 (2,856 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)        

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Rinse hold? My 1986 has a fine rinse button which is just a rinse cycle.

Post# 887551 , Reply# 34   6/30/2016 at 09:28 (2,856 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        
Rinse hold

As I wrote above: All interim spins should occur, but before the final spin, the machine stops with the rinse water still in the drum.

Post# 887558 , Reply# 35   6/30/2016 at 10:45 (2,856 days old) by bajaespuma (Connecticut)        
Now I get it.

bajaespuma's profile picture

Thanks, Henrik, I read that but didn't understand it at first. And it makes sense for washing stuff like a plastic shower curtain that won't be happy with a final spin.


Post# 887576 , Reply# 36   6/30/2016 at 12:15 (2,856 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

For shower curtains, no spin would be better, as it cancels all spins, including the spins between rinses.

Its better if you have crease sensitive laundry that you can't get out of the machine right away or if a cycle is limited to a lower spin speed but you like a fast spin speed anyway.
I use it for synthetic curtains or shirts.



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