Thread Number: 66500  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Help with Maytag A606 with inner tub nut
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Post# 891260   7/27/2016 at 13:53 (2,829 days old) by MrMom (LA Calif)        

Hello to all. The new guy here. I have been a collector of old machines for 40 years However not washing machines But I can appreciate the old machines better than the throw away's they make now.
My mother bought only four washing machines in her life the first I have no idea what is was. The second was an A606 Maytag. When I got married in 1984 she asked if I wanted the 606 she was going to get a new maytag And so it arrived to my laundry room where it has ran for many years.
I have replaced the belts twice and the drain pump once. Now that I have a daughter and grand daughter using it on a weekly bases it is being used a heck of a lot more. it started making noises on the spin cycle and the tub was moving way to much even with a medium size load. I decided to check it out. I pulled the front cover and found the dampner pads had slipped out. So those have been ordered. I pulled the agitator and noticed a little oil on the spline. When I looked at the bottom of the agitator it had a couple of streaks of oil on it. I wiped off the spline and found that the lip for the snap ring that holds the seal down is eaten away and the snap ring was just sitting on top. I have read all over this site how to get this nut off of the inner tub, left handed threads ETC I bought the TB123A spanner wrench, I have beaten the living heck out of this with an 8 pound hammer So much so that I am starting to round the corners of the nut. I soaked it with liquid wrench Sunday then again Monday when I got home. I beat on it for half an hour. I decided to soak it again so it is waiting for me when I get home tonight. Does any one have any suggestion that I can try? I have in the passed used a dremel with a metal cutting disc to break loose large nuts on machines. I just would like a professionals opinion first
Thanks
Fred





Post# 891264 , Reply# 1   7/27/2016 at 14:09 (2,829 days old) by repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
My opinion is to cut it off! It is a lot easier and faster. Plus you won't accidentally chip the porcelain tub with the hammer. I usually use a wedged punch. One good hit on the top on opposite sides always breaks it in half. A new nut comes with a seal kit so for me it is no problem. Good luck!

Post# 891292 , Reply# 2   7/27/2016 at 16:43 (2,829 days old) by MrMom (LA Calif)        

Thank you for the reply I am going to do it tonight I have baseball gloves for hands Trying to hold that wrench with one hand and swinging a hammer with the other in a 4 cubic foot area I could just see me teaching one of the grand kids a new special word that I would be reminded of every time I saw my daughter in law.
Fred


Post# 891293 , Reply# 3   7/27/2016 at 16:49 (2,829 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
As I recall from the one time I did this job, there's an allen screw in the spanner nut that must be removed before it'll come off.


Post# 891295 , Reply# 4   7/27/2016 at 17:21 (2,829 days old) by MrMom (LA Calif)        

From everything I have read the outer tub seal has the set screw in it The inner tub does not But I will look closely before I do anything
Fred


Post# 891296 , Reply# 5   7/27/2016 at 17:38 (2,829 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Oh, right.  Cloudy memory and don't do the job every day.


Post# 891300 , Reply# 6   7/27/2016 at 17:47 (2,829 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

No  set screw on the spanner nut. If you're sure you are whacking it the right way, cut it off. I've never had one that tight, a chisel and punch usually get's them to turn.


Post# 891323 , Reply# 7   7/27/2016 at 21:03 (2,829 days old) by MrMom (LA Calif)        

Ever notice when you open the can at both ends the worms get out faster I took a cold chisel hit the nut 3 or 4 times on each side and it was off. Now I am looking at the cork covered nut I spray it with liquid wrench and while it is soaking I take the allen screw out I even make sure they didn't put one on top of the other so I know it's clear The last time anyone touched this was at the factory I banged on this thing for 10 minutes Clock wise. It finally started to move after making three revolutions I realized the whole shaft was turning. I got a 1 1/4 wooden dowel I put it between the tub braces and the hole in the back of the cabinet I banged on it again but nothing So I sprayed it again and started cleaning up 40 years of soap residue that's when the other end of the can opened I am posting a picture of the shaft and the new problem 40 years of soap residue must have sealed it and so goes my questions
How do I get that nut off can it be cut off also?
Can the outer tub be Heliarced, Brazed, Welded?
If not what is a fair price for the outer tub if I can find one local
Thank you for your reply's
Fred


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Post# 891470 , Reply# 8   7/28/2016 at 21:20 (2,828 days old) by MrMom (LA Calif)        

I dug out the seal at the top of the nut so I could get to the threads with some liquid wrench. I filled it up. While I was waiting I cleaned the tub completely needless to say I found a few more holes. I also did a lot of reading, lucky for me the paint store down the street has POR15 I bought a pint along with the metal prep. I have done some fiberglass work in the past, I have some cloth and resin so I am going to try that once I get this tub loose I tried the spanner wrench and the flat tip punch but it still won't move I'm going to let it soak over night. Anybody has an idea I'll try it
Thanks
Fred


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Post# 891498 , Reply# 9   7/29/2016 at 03:40 (2,827 days old) by brucelucenta ()        

Have you considered just getting another machine? Certainly would be easier than all of this it seems and there seem to be lots of them still out there for sale on craig's list and such. I did check craig's list and there seem to be several in your area that might be a good replacement.



This post was last edited 07/29/2016 at 06:14
Post# 891510 , Reply# 10   7/29/2016 at 07:17 (2,827 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Stuck Basket Mount

combo52's profile picture

I assume you removed the set screw, but in many cases I have to also cut this part off,with a dremill type hand grinder you can cut two deep cuts in it and then break it off.

 

It is fairly to patch and repair the outer tub, your tub should be saveable.


Post# 891513 , Reply# 11   7/29/2016 at 08:34 (2,827 days old) by jimmler (Nipomo, CA)        

jimmler's profile picture
I have had much better luck with PB Blaster as a penetrant. Most any hardware store carries it.

Post# 891522 , Reply# 12   7/29/2016 at 10:06 (2,827 days old) by MrMom (LA Calif)        

Hello
I have worked on older machines for a long time I just can't give up and I have almost 125.00 in parts sitting on the floor. I take it as a challenge, I know a futile one some times but I have to try. I am going to look for the PB blaster. I have a couple dremels and cutting wheels so tonight when I get home I will give it a go
Thanks for the input I'll keep you posted
Fred


Post# 891542 , Reply# 13   7/29/2016 at 12:17 (2,827 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
 
Satisfaction at a job done can be a sufficient reason to proceed.  :-)


Post# 891545 , Reply# 14   7/29/2016 at 12:34 (2,827 days old) by Lowefficiency (Iowa)        

lowefficiency's profile picture
Keep at it!

If there is one thing I learned from restoring old cars, it's that parts won't be available forever, and neither will the knowledge of how to repair things. Sometimes your only choice is to fix what you have, and you can't count on replacement parts or assemblies to get you through, so you can't be destructive in the disassembly.

And just like what you're saying here- the special tools, a repair guide, or set of instructions written when an item was produced isn't necessarily the correct process to follow anymore after 40+ years. (For example, just look at the pictures of broken agitators from using the factory pullers, and the "new" tools and processes people now use to remove them safely.)

Someday, there will be a time, when someone else is struggling the same way. And there's a good chance they will find this thread in a Google search, and gain a huge benefit from the insight here. So pressing on, and documenting what works and what doesn't, is a great benefit to the community!


Post# 891597 , Reply# 15   7/29/2016 at 20:34 (2,827 days old) by MrMom (LA Calif)        

Thanks Loweff1ciency Cars huh hole different site but I have a 61 Porsche roadster and a 62 Harley panhead and yup machined many one off's
Well spent the better part of 2 hours cutting measuring and cutting some more I was kind of flying blind I didn't know how deep to go but I got it off Now I have a couple questions I'm hoping maybe the real repair guys might be able to tell me. I have a bearing stuck on the spindle Yes I can cut it but the new part doesn't have this also there is a fluted rubber plug stuck in the hole of the tub Again I don't have a new one of those either Are these part of the original seals that they don't use or make anymore? and we just get along without them
Going to work on this tomorrow and Sunday going to make an all out assault
Thank you for the input
Fred


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Post# 891657 , Reply# 16   7/30/2016 at 10:10 (2,826 days old) by MrMom (LA Calif)        

I was reading this morning before I went at this project. The rubber is the Tub bearing boot. I am still not sure of the bearing at the top, But I am going to inspect the boot real close, I believe I am going to go the extra mile and replace it seeing how it is the most difficult to get to and a chain is only as strong as it's weakest link Which would make that the old Tub bearing seal
Fred


Post# 892087 , Reply# 17   8/1/2016 at 18:07 (2,824 days old) by MrMom (LA Calif)        

Well i have it all back together But I need some input When it is in damp dry spin how much movment should there be in the tub The inner tub it not hitting the outer tub and the machine cabinet is not really moving but the tub is shaking at top speed I read some where here about the tub hole should be centered in the cabinet hole when it stops spinning When i spin out the water with the tub empty the tub leans towrds me when it stops. I read to tighten the rear springs to pull it back but I have done this three times and I think the inner tub is off center But I can't find a way to tell what is center and what is balanced Anybody?
Thanks
Fred


Post# 892129 , Reply# 18   8/1/2016 at 21:55 (2,824 days old) by MrMom (LA Calif)        

I am going to keep going on this But if anyone wants to give there opinion on the post above I'm here
First off I have never worked with POR15 it is some strange stuff for sure Looks like thin paint but if you get it on you hands and your sweating it acts like grease or oil it stains the skin but from what I have read it dries by humidity and heat To much dry heat and it takes for ever to cure To much moisture and it breaks down. But I got the hang of it. I used the metal prep they sell and kept all of the tub wet for all of 45 min.'s Once that was done I washed and dried the tub POR15 says bone dry. I decided to go with JB weld I let that set up for 3 hr's then I painted the whole inside of the tub even around the rim. We are in the 90's here with 55% humidity So as the instruction said slight finger drag and it's time to re-coat 3 coats in all.
Now the inner tub had a problem at the hub The porcelain was chipped and it was starting to rust I used metal prep on it then I took some JB weld and filled it in a little higher than the rim I took some sand paper to bring it down as close to level as I could Then I took 900 grit wrapped it around a block of wood in a circular motion The sand paper only being on the JB weld once I used a straight edge and a flash light to make sure it was all the same all the way around. I contoured it to match the hub. Then I painted it with POR15 I know it looks a little bad because it's thin I couldn't keep it from running So it is all back together but I still have this spin problem. Is it possible to reset the inner tub again with out taking all apart? and is there a way to know when it's straight


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Post# 892141 , Reply# 19   8/2/2016 at 00:45 (2,823 days old) by Stan (Napa CA)        
Wow

stan's profile picture
Looks really good Fred. You did a good job cutting that off too
Wish I knew more about Maytag automatics..but someone will stop by and will know about centering that tub. Did u reuse the old rubber seal? Is it holding water?


Post# 892156 , Reply# 20   8/2/2016 at 05:57 (2,823 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Recentering the Inner Wash Basket

combo52's profile picture

You can raise the washer top and take off the tub cover and watch the basket as it starts to spin and see if it is off-center. If so just remove the agitator and loosen the tub mounting ring and try re-centering the basket and re-tightening until the basket spins as centered as possible.

 

Sometimes the basket will rub on the outer tub near the top of the outer tub or the tub cover because the tub cover is out of round, this can happen as you tighten the clamping band around the tub cover. When you reassemble this clamping band have everything clean wet and soapy and tighten both screws as evenly as possible.

 

John L.


Post# 892212 , Reply# 21   8/2/2016 at 11:44 (2,823 days old) by MrMom (LA Calif)        

Hello Stan yes so far it holds. I have filled it and spun it out 4 times. The first time I filled it I did do a rookie mistake not checking all my fittings. The first fill water was running out I thought for sure the tub was leaking. I dropped to the floor with my flashlight just to find I forgot to tighten the clamp on the tub to pump hose. like I said rookie mistake
Thanks John
Never even thought of that Leave the top off and watch it spin Perfect I have noticed standing in front of the machine when it stops spinning the outer tub leans toward
5 O:Clock ever time And I have spun this thing 20 times I tightened the spring on the opposite side a couple of times But it still does it and I don't think that is the problem The inner tub is out for sure I think I am going to try putting a piece of tape on the inner tub Put it in spin let it go around for a few seconds then shut it off if it stops approximately in the same place each time and it still leans toward 5 O:Clock I going to loosen the nut and move it slightly the opposite direction. However there are so many things that are not constant there's nothing fixed or anything you can use for a bench mark The outer tub moves. The shaft moves It's not like spinning a lathe or balancing a car tire There's no 0 zero point
I am going to give it a run tonight
Thank you for the input
Fred


Post# 892364 , Reply# 22   8/3/2016 at 10:57 (2,822 days old) by MrMom (LA Calif)        

John
Your frek-in ingenious. I had all these plans in my head. I decided to just try the simple one first your suggestion. I have a couple of bubble levels I use, I put them on the cabinet top. I discovered the machine was way out of level. I lifted the machine almost a 1/4" off the ground in the front before it was level. So I adjusted the feet until the cabinet was level. I took the cabinet top and the top of the outer tub off and hit the spin cycle. I could see right off what the problem was. I have read that the outer tub is not perfectly round but I took out my calipers, Using the end that sticks out the bottom as a gauge. I decided to quarter the outer rim. 12 O;Clock 6 3 and 9
I took measurements. Then let it spin again, took measurements and then spun it again. I did it four times. I was getting about 1 1/2" at 11 O;Clock and 1" at 5 O;Clock
I loosened the nut on the tub and nudged it toward 11 then went around the rim. I kept doing this until I was even all the way around. Once I had it even all the way around I tightened the nut down and hit spin. At first it had a little wobble. If I had to put a figure to it Lets say top speed is 3000 RPM When I hit the button at the start up about 500 RPM there was a wobble which I thought meant trouble. However as it went faster the wobble disappeared By 1800 RPM (or half speed) then it flattened out and spun true at top speed it didn't move at all. I was so impressed. I turned it on and off a few times before I put the outer tub top back on. I use my fingers as a gauge between the top and the inner tub when I had three fingers flat on the top of the inner tub all the way around I tightened it down turning the screws an even amount until it was tight. Once I did that I spun it again to make sure no rubbing just spun like a top.
Now the rookie mistake. I lifted the lid and noticed the tub liked to lean forward every time it stopped. So on to the springs for a little adjustment. I tightened the two in the back until it stopped dead center. However the rookie here didn't realize that when you put the two screws back in that holds the top to the cabinet all that adjusting of the springs was way wrong. Once I got those two screws in tight now the tub leaned to the back. So under I went and pretty much put the spring tension back the way it was. I couldn't wait to show the wife. I called her over and said "watch this" the tub took off like a top not a shake or shimmy. She said "Oh you took the fun out of it" Ahh I didn't get that but I guess it's an inside joke between her and the washer. Anyway I have this thing running like a champ. I have a couple of tweeks here and there. One of my concerns is the timer acts odd I might look at that tonight. And I might just do the laundry, Oh at least a couple of loads just to watch it run
Fred





Post# 892536 , Reply# 23   8/4/2016 at 17:10 (2,821 days old) by MrMom (LA Calif)        

Hello all
I might start a knew thread with this one if no one reply's But it is related to this machine and I was trying to keep it all together
Everything is working great Except the timer is off or out of time or I can't explain it other than this My timer has two sides Regular wash cycle and permanent press cycle Both sides work great. However when I put it on regular wash it fills the tub goes through all of the different segments But when it get's to the last cycle "Damp Dry" it clicks closer and closer to off But it clicks off then immediately starts the permanent press fill cycle I mean it is so fast as I stand there and watch it The timer goes click off click fill Can i get into this timer or is it one of these plastic sealed things that I am going to possibly break with no replacement and therefor wasting the last week of rebuilding the machine??
Thank you for your reply's
Fred


Post# 893156 , Reply# 24   8/9/2016 at 10:50 (2,816 days old) by MrMom (LA Calif)        
I think I'm done with this one

Well I took the timer out. I spent a little time looking it over and took a couple of pictures before I started pulling wires off. I did notice they were all numbered and I made sure the wire number matched the location it was plugged into. I took the motor off and bent the metal tabs on the top and bottom so I could get the plates loose. Not the face or back just the top and bottom. After sitting there turning the shaft by hand and watching the cams go round I tried to get an idea of what contact engaged what cycle. when I got to the last spin cycle (damp dry) it seemed to bind a little then click as in the off position but then there was a little click at the same time I took that to be starting the permanent press cycle Just like it was when it was all plugged in, It would start to fill again. There's a large gear about the size of a half dollar that the motor drives, Then there is a pinion gear and then the shaft is driven from that. It was pretty dusty inside and dry There was a small amount of grease on the shaft when you pulled it out to turn the machine on. I decided to put a drop of 3 in 1 motor oil on the shaft of the large gear that the motor engaged to. Then a drop on the back of the shaft where it comes thru the back of the plate. as I turned the shaft it started to loosen up and I could get the whole thing to turn by using my thumb on the large gear the motor drives. Once I got it back together I plugged all the wires back in and mounted it back into the cabinet At first I thought I really didn't do anything other than waste 2 hours but when I ran a wash cycle I saw that the timer was moving a lot easier and more accurately moving from cycle to cycle and not jumping ahead. When it got to the last spin it shut off and that was it. I ran another cycle with the same out come. I did 6 loads of laundry yesterday, After the third load I started walking away when I started the next load. When I return the machine had gone thru the cycles and shut off. I'm going to keep an eye on it but I think the lack of lubrication was causing the motor to push harder than it needed to, Causing the timer to jump from cycle to cycle and the start of the permanent press being so close to the off of the regular wash caused it to jump instead of just clicking
off. I think this machine is good to go for a few years at least I hope. I've learned a lot and it is always interesting to me how the older machines work. I have always said simple is better for me I mean you buy a new washer and it has 16 buttoms and 4 dials. With mine you push 3 buttons Water temp, Reg or gental, how full, pull the button out. Even I can do it
Fred



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