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Thread Number: 67848
/ Tag: Ranges, Stoves, Ovens
Frigidaire Flair Electric Range 1961? 1962? |
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| Post# 905580 11/5/2016 at 17:18 (2,740 days old) by Artistathand (Winchester VA) | ||
Hi,
I am new here. I am so happy to have found this site. I see this is full of info on Frigidaire Flair Ranges, one of which I own and am trying to maintain after just finding out parts are not made anymore! Grumble grumble I inherited my beauty in 2007. I searched here for info and thought I owned a 1961 model but after some discussion, a member say's it is a 1962. The model number is RCDB 640-1 I need to replace the small front burner. I had replaced one in the back with out incident in 2007. No problems...just put it in. I have since been warned that there is something that could make surface coils blow. Does anyone understand what that might be? Is it connected to the speed heat? Does mine have speed heat? Are there things that should be tested before I spend at least $100.00 on a new burner? I have found a new one if someone doesn't buy it before I can figure this all out. I downloaded some schematics from a 1960 manual. That is another thing....I imagine all the parts are specific to each year stove? I would deeply appreciate ANY help. Thank you Thank you thank you Susan 
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| Post# 905693 , Reply# 2 11/6/2016 at 13:20 (2,739 days old) by Artistathand (Winchester VA) | ||
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Frigidaire Flair Electric Range
I am over the moon that I don't have this troublesome speed heat or the heat minder unit (what ever that is)
So the stove would indicate if it has speed heat on the face near the control. This aluminum thing you talk about on the burner is not removable is it? I had someone comment on how fast I was able to boil water, of course that depends on how much water you are boiling but that put fear in me that I may have this speed heat going on. I am sighing in relief. This particular burner was constantly used by my grandmother so I think with the age of the stove and the over use, it finally gave up. Thank you for letting me know about the surface, as you can see there is a stain of some sort on the cover face that was probably the result of a chemical cleaner. I think that is what happened to the hood. I want to refinish it at some point if I can keep the old girl alive. I pray the ovens will keep going too. Everything works except the timer. Well...we have never tested the time cooker. I think that part scared my mother a little bit. The oven turns itself on? Yikes! These units were way ahead of their time, for sure. Thanks you SO much for the help! THANK YOU FOR SHARING ALL YOUR KNOWLEDGE AND EXPERIENCE. This means so much. Susan | ||
| Post# 905703 , Reply# 3 11/6/2016 at 14:33 (2,739 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada) | ||
Susan, Just like Tom said, the Custom Imperial is the model that potentially had the Speed Heat burner, and when it did, it was labeled on the control panel (those like my Canadian Custom Imperials didn't have the Speed Heat).
Your model is a 1961 model as you expected, I have an earlier model that was made in late-1961 when most of the 1962 Frigidaire models were already introduced so I guess yours could also be from that period. The Tech Talk manual that covers this model was published in April of 1961 (volume XII, no.8), just a few months before most 1962 models were introduced. There are probably date codes on many things like the burner switches but there could be dates stamped near the bake element connectors which are easier to see. This model still had the GE/Telechron timer, some places fix them. The 1962 models switched to the International Register timers. Your non-working burner could have a few causes, the burner itself could be bad but the problem could be the wiring, the infinite switch or the drawer safety switch as well. That safety switches disables the burners by pairs when the drawer is half-closed (so the rear burners can't be turned on while partially covered by the cover) or completely closed (all 4 burners shouldn't work). These safety switches have contacts for each burner so even if the one on the right still works, that doesn't mean the switch is fine. Here are Custom Imperial from the same period and that show "infinite heat" left front burner controls, they don't have a Speed Heat either. 
But the US-made Custom Imperials do.
View Full Size
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Post# 905743 , Reply# 4 11/6/2016 at 19:54 (2,739 days old) by panthera  (Rocky Mountains) |
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Hi and Welcome! We have a '1961' Flair which has many systems which depart from both the 1961 and 1962 technical descriptions in the repair manuals. It's either one of the very first or has had much service in its long (and wonderful) life. So - for what it's worth, a few suggestions more: 1) Remember to always pull the plug before working on your Flair. A lot of controls only turn off one side of the 240 line on these ranges - leaving components very much 'live' and waiting to bite or damage some extremely-hard-to-replace part. 2) Be thankful you don't have the speed-heat system. It's a great idea on paper. Not so hot (couldn't resist) in real life. Or, too hot. Either way. 3) You've already gotten a list of what could be wrong. Generally speaking, the hidden weak point in the pull-out drawer system is at the Molex connectors at the very back. It's not uncommon for wires to still be attached by the insulation whilst the wire inside has broken off. I'd check there before I went after any of the other problems. 4) Since you don't have the speed-heat system, you can always swap the various parts against each other until you find what's gone wrong.
A fifth and much overlooked note - the range top is NOT stainless steel, it's nickel (some say chrome, my chemistry set says otherwise on ours) plated steel and is easily destroyed by scrubbing with anything you wouldn't use on a glass-ceramic top modern range. Be especially careful not to leave acidic foods on the top.
Keep us up to date and ask questions - I ask the most unusual questions here and am always helped. If only to get me to be quiet.... | ||
| Post# 906304 , Reply# 5 11/10/2016 at 10:34 (2,736 days old) by Artistathand (Winchester VA) | ||
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Frigidaire Flair Electric Range 1961? 1962?
Again, I am so glad to have found this site and all you wonderful people.
I love seeing the photos. Thank you for showing me the speed heat indication on these. I AM glad I don't have the speed heat as I DO see, it isn't too hot.....teeheeee. So.... the "infinite heat" indication is just something marketing wanted to print on the stove to sound marvelous? I understand the tray workings in that, there is a safety switch with closing and you don't have to open the drawer all the way but it is a very good thing to talk about ALL of the little intricate elements of these stoves. Thank you. Now that I say that, I didn't think about an issue of a safety switch not allowing the burner to work regardless of having the stove open or not. But I haven't closed my stove since 2007, I figured the less wear, the better. Though that is an OOOOHHHHH highlight of showing the stove off. Maybe somebody can clarify this but I was thinking it rolled the electric connection when the drawer is opened and closed? If it doesn't wear anything but the drawer, I might start closing it again.....but there is this new found issue with those safety switches...hmmm. OK The Burner. I bought a new one on eBay. Yes brand spankin new. We received it Nov 9 and we were able to install it late last night. It doesn't lay flat like it should in the opening....not bad but not flat AND it doesn't seem to be heating like it should. It DOES HEAT so the wiring seems like it is fine. The middle section shows red ( if the lights are out.) Once during a trial the whole burner acted like it was going to glow red but ( with the lights out ) but didn't quite make it. There may be something in the switch that doesn't want to stay connected? The contact or points? Whatever the proper lingo would be. I am thinking along this line because of the variance in the burner going red, is there a cycling going on in there that is defective? What do you all think? We had the old burner tested at the hardware store where they originally said, they could find us a new one and the old one was declared dead. We haven't explored the reason this new burner isn't heating enough and I haven't gotten back to the fellow that seems very intent on selling good stuff. We haven't had this burner on a meter or anything. The burners don't have break-in periods do they? The big one we replaced in 2007 when parts were still available from the company worked fine right away. We were thinking of hooking up this new burner in the back where we know everything is working fine. If the new burner heats well in the back, it is something in the stove. SIGH~~ If not I will get back with my seller. Thank you again for all the tech talk and again anything new, anyone can add about the burner situation is greatly appreciated! OH....more info in case someone out there reading has a stove that won't respond at ALL. Before I had this beauty as mine, in my younger days, I ran into someone that had a similar stove that came with HIS house. I told him how wonderful they were. He said, he was going to get rid of it because he couldn't get anything to work on it. I grew up with this kind of stove, so after looking at the control face, I told him the setting on the time cook was not on manual. After changing that to manual he was a happy camper. It is nice to have manuals. Sincerely, Susan | ||
| Post# 906309 , Reply# 6 11/10/2016 at 11:37 (2,735 days old) by Artistathand (Winchester VA) | ||
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Frigidaire Flair Electric Range 1961? 1962?
I forgot all about the info on cleaning the cook top.
Thank you for that too! Yeah, this one has scratches and I am sure it had abrasives used on it. I have used Bonami before to clean it up but usually use soap and water or windex. Windex ok? I sometimes end the cleaning with just water and wipe it dry. I too thought the surface was stainless steel till I had a small magnet drop on it from the refrigerator. I said, HEY, this ain't no stainless steel! You also need to be careful if you wipe up as you cook, OH BOY does that surface get HOT! Sincerely, Susan | ||
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Post# 906310 , Reply# 7 11/10/2016 at 11:58 (2,735 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains) |
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Windex is fine. My grandparents' maid used windex and elbow grease to clean their Flair and it looked great when it was replaced (stupidly) in 2001. If that burner is not heating red all the way through, it could be a problem but I'd try something else first before you move it. Put a really thin aluminium or stainless steel (thin, thin, thin) flat bottomed pan on it. Fill it with a few inches of water. Turn the burner to high and watch which areas bubble compared to a burner known to work well. If it does heat evenly, then don't worry about it. If not, then it's time to see if something isn't wrong, somewhere. A funny failure, though. Never seen one like it before. | ||
| Post# 906416 , Reply# 8 11/10/2016 at 22:44 (2,735 days old) by Artistathand (Winchester VA) | ||
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Frigidaire Flair Electric Range 1961? 1962?
It is a late night check on the link and I appreciate the idea.
I wanted to mess with this burner today but we were too busy. I am glad I didn't because I will do as you suggest. I need to try something tomorrow. I have a thin aluminum pan that will work. Yeah, it is weird.... When we first put it in, we only tested to see if heat was coming from it and it was. The thing doesn't lie flat either. Everything is attached correctly but we thought that maybe with time it will level out. Then later, I tried to boil water with it and it just doesn't heat up much. It appeared to heat only within the middle arc of the coil. I turned it off after seeing how sluggish it was attempting to heat up. I didn't want to harm anything by leaving it on high while it didn't appear to get any hotter. Again, it heats up, just not as hot as the others. When my husband came home, I turned it on to show him the problem and that is when it turned red throughout the whole coil like the heat was traveling around the way it should....of course you can only see this red when the lights are out. I was wondering maybe the reason this burner was still new, was that it had an issue. Maybe it was a return at one time? Nothing against the seller but just something that time has forgotten. Another thing we could try is we didn't use the new wires that came with it. We just hooked it up to the old ones. On to testing. Thank you, Susan | ||
| Post# 906480 , Reply# 9 11/11/2016 at 06:55 (2,735 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada) | ||
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It's normal for the part that contacts the pan to stay dark while the part that doesn't gets bright. If you turn the burner on with nothing on it, it should glow red uniformly. Don't expect these burners to be very fast, they have a large mass and they take a while to heat up and cool down. This slower response, and the way they can warp and not contact the pans evenly are reasons why some people don't like them or don't get used to them. If it's seriously warped or if the star-shaped support under it is damaged (could also be warped or rusted) you might want to replace them. I rarely use burners on the HIGH setting for a long time, I don't use my range to boil water and I don't like frying stuff or anything that splashes so I'm not bothered by these characteristics of my burners. Those on the range that I use daily aren't warped and they work fine for me but I'm sure that others used to something else would complain!
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Post# 906503 , Reply# 10 11/11/2016 at 09:05 (2,735 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains) |
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Another thought - Do you have a volt-ohm-meter? Digital or analog? You can pick one up that's good enough for this purpose at Harbor Freight for less than $10 if you don't. 1) With one wire disconnected from the burner, measure the resistance across the two terminals. You should get something within plus or minus five of about 45 ohms. 2) Check if there's anything but infinite resistance between the surface of the burner and either terminal.* If there's anything but infinite resistance, the burner is bad and must be thrown away. 3) I keep assuming this is a two contact Frigidaire original part - would you mind posting a picture? We may all have made a simple mistake.
Best of luck - you're going down the right paths.
*Technically versed, I'm trying to keep this simple, so don't lecture, OK? KISS is a good principle for troubleshooting. | ||
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Post# 906577 , Reply# 11 11/11/2016 at 19:19 (2,734 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Electric Surface Elements There is nothing wrong with your new 6" element.
When you use an element on high NONE of it should be red hot if you have a proper pan on it, so the first thing to check is the pan perfectly flat. If it is, it is possible the the element is bent a little, on FDEs you can bend the center up or down slightly to make them flat, try checking for flatness with a ruler etc.
If the entire element is tilted it probably is not installed properly in it mounting bracket. | ||
| Post# 906584 , Reply# 12 11/11/2016 at 20:01 (2,734 days old) by Artistathand (Winchester VA) | ||
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Frigidaire Flair Electric Range 1961? 1962?
The case of the lukewarm burner -
I tried the tests...well my husband tried the tests that you talked about and I think a few more. Our original bad coil, was really dead. We tested the new one that doesn't heat right and everything seemed to test fine...CRAZY. We decided to do the swap. We took the small one already fine and working on the stove, from the back and put it in the front where the new one wasn't working. The new one went in the back where there was no question if there was a bad wire or switch...etc....I should have stopped with "the swap"......sorry, you know what I mean. LOW and BEHOLD the new burner acted the same in the new spot in the back and wouldn't heat all the way. The front switch and old back coil acted just fine in the front questionable spot. So... it all points to the new burner. It has something going on. He had original instructions in the box from Frigidaire but it wasn't in a brand box. Maybe it just doesn't fit this model or maybe it is just bad. I will show you the photos of the ends and the poor settling of the burner. The fellow was oh so kind and apologized. I am going to send it back to him for my refund. He said, that was the only new one he had left but he has many used ones. I am opening another question.... Has anyone ever bought a used burner and had success with it lasting ? I was thrilled to find a new one since the part was so pricey. I was afraid to buy a used one and then have it burn out in a short time. You don't know what a used one has gone through but..... the new one didn't work did it? I guess that is what we all deal with now, right? Photos When the burner didn't set right, I thought it was because the tab that holds the bracket allowing you to raise the burner was spaced differently. You can see which is the new one that didn't work, it is much cleaner. The one that was in the back must be an original because it had a plug in system on the end and the dark plastic part was much shorter than even the one of ours that went bad. It seems we have 2 original burners.. Thank you for ALL this help again. I can't stop saying how appreciative I am. Sincerely, Susan | ||
| Post# 906599 , Reply# 13 11/11/2016 at 23:36 (2,734 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada) | ||
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Is the mounting bracket for the burner hinge still solidly welded to the range top? On most Frigidaire ranges and cooktops, they were attached with screws but on Flairs, they were spot welded. One of my Flairs had a missing Radiantube 8" burner that had been replaced by Chromalox burner. The mounting bracket had been removed so I had to weld another one to it and I then installed a used burner of the correct type. It worked fine ever since. If the bracket is not holding the burner properly, I suggest drilling where the spot welds were and use some screws to hold it correctly instead of welding it like I did.
Is the burner support in good shape? | ||
| Post# 906624 , Reply# 14 11/12/2016 at 07:03 (2,734 days old) by Artistathand (Winchester VA) | ||
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Frigidaire Flair Electric Range 1961? 1962?
On my Flair they are all attached with screws. When we did the swap out that I mentioned above, testing burners, the new burner sat cockeyed in the other back opening as well.
As far as I can tell, all the burner supports are in good shape. I guess I am looking at a used burner coil. Since this other one didn't work and is going back. It must not have fit this model? Susan | ||
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Post# 906659 , Reply# 15 11/12/2016 at 14:18 (2,733 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains) |
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Regarding 'used' burners Generally speaking, burners are very reliable. I'd not worry too overmuch. Hmm, silly question, but we're trying to learn from you - the more we all know about these ranges, the better - are working with 240V or 208v? Anyway, as long as the burner isn't run without load for any length of time, they rarely fail. Except for the Westinghouse 'Corox' burners. We've had two fail in only 63 years. | ||
| Post# 906718 , Reply# 16 11/12/2016 at 21:45 (2,733 days old) by Artistathand (Winchester VA) | ||
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Frigidaire Flair Electric Range 1961? 1962?
To buy or not to buy....
Bad burner, Better burner 240V I am sorry that I didn't show the end of those elements in the photos very well. After I posted the pictures, I see the ends were not showing enough. Thank you, I guess I am helping too because that WAS crazy about the burner panning out good on a meter and not in the stove! This seller has been great and he just told me that the new burner was tested that way, meter only. The used ones, of course come right from the stoves. Good to hear they can last a while. I feel better buying used even though that is the only option. I am looking at buying a used one from the same fellow. I hope it sets well in the stove. I need a little study time to figure out which one I want. It seems matching part numbers means nothing. I can't remember the exact words he used but when I was trying to match parts numbers with this first burner, he said something like, if I had 2 wires coming out of the end it would work. There were so many parts numbers. After seeing I still have 2 original coils and 2 replacement coils on mine, I can understand that. The replacement coils that I know came from Frigidaire had different "looks" at the plug, still 2 wires but probably had different numbers simply because they were bought at a much later date. ( though I didn't check that when we had the other one out of the stove. ) Even if it doesn't matter I still like that the used burner I am eyeing has all the same numbers as my old one, only the first three are different. I would like to understand what you mean by "run without a load" Sincerely, Susan | ||
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Post# 906723 , Reply# 17 11/12/2016 at 22:01 (2,733 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains) |
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Run without a load or run dry | ||
| Post# 906727 , Reply# 18 11/12/2016 at 22:42 (2,733 days old) by Artistathand (Winchester VA) | ||
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Frigidaire Flair Electric Range 1961? 1962?
Burner...
OHHHHhhh Got it! I am still looking at 2 used burners and trying to decide which one to buy. I can't make up my mind. They are seemingly the same...sheesh, they probably ARE the same. I don't want another one that fits or sits cockeyed. I think I am tired. Fiddle Dee Dee, I will choose tomorrow. Keep those fingers crossed haha thanks! | ||
| Post# 906853 , Reply# 19 11/13/2016 at 22:01 (2,732 days old) by Artistathand (Winchester VA) | ||
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Frigidaire Flair Electric Range 1961? 1962? | ||
| Post# 907308 , Reply# 20 11/16/2016 at 18:56 (2,729 days old) by Artistathand (Winchester VA) | ||
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Frigidaire Flair Electric Range Bad Burner Better Burner
The new used burner is WORKING!!!!
WOOOOOOOOOOOHOOOOOOOOO It fit better AND heated up red beautifully on high! I remember your caution and only had it on red long enough to see it was working and I turned it on med for a bit before cranking it to high. I am VERY happy! Ok, here we go..... This is some Mysterious weird stuff. This wonderful guy on eBay that has been working with me got the new burner back that I returned. Remember he said, he originally tested it on a meter but not on a stove? Upon receiving it back, he tested it again on the meter and it was still fine. He then ran current to it and it got cherry red!!! What the??? VERY strange! And First... Remember how it also stuck up and wouldn't seat properly in my Flair ? I sent him some photos of the poor seating In our many discussions, he mentioned that he had noticed maybe the reason that new burner didn't seat well was that it had a "long neck" on it and my old one was a "short neck." I mention this as someone in our thread was helping me on ideas of the brackets and such in these Flairs. The new burner didn't seat well in either of the 6 inch openings on my stove. Has anybody heard of a short neck, long neck coil? I know I thought that the tab that held the bracket on the new coil seemed to be about 5mm off from the tab on my old dead coil. This measurement is from the end of the plastic head to the little tab that holds the bracket. I am not sure what the actual measurements are on the one I sent back but I have the ones from the stove and I will measure those if I ever need another burner. I evidently did need a short necked coil for my stove, not a long necked coil cause this used one I just bought fits great and Works great. This used burner coil that is working for me now is a tiny bit thinner like my old dead burner coil too. BUT ---- Do you all think this could be the reason the burner wouldn’t work properly in my stove? Now...this is only coming from my brain. Is there something with the plug in the longer neck coil that would not jive with my stove, where a short neck coil was what I needed? Maybe the longer neck was made for a newer model than mine? We checked the wiring and hook ups 2 x’s on that new burner before we moved it to the back of our stove and the burner that we already had that worked from the back, worked in the front where the new burner would not. The new burner would not work properly either place. I am very pleased I have 4 burners again but this is such a mystery. I want this whole thing to be of help in case anyone else comes across this same thing. I am going to use this short neck, long neck thing if I need another burner. Confused but Happy, Short necked Susan | ||
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Post# 907367 , Reply# 21 11/17/2016 at 08:31 (2,729 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains) |
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I'm so glad it's working! | ||
| Post# 908990 , Reply# 23 11/29/2016 at 11:08 (2,716 days old) by artistathand (Winchester VA) | ||
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Frigidaire Flair Electric Range Short Necked Susan
TeeHee,
Glad to perk up the day for you. We gotta keep it light where ever we can. I am very happy to be a four burner lady again, despite the short neck. Whatever works! I had the ole girl's guns a blazing on Thanksgiving. We usually don't do a big dinner. This year we did and I was thankful she was up to it. I didn't take pictures but should have. The traditional turkey wouldn't have looked very traditional in the oven though. We went easy street and bought one of those big turkey breasts from a box store. None the less, it was delicious! We had cornbread and biscuits too. I love those double ovens, I use them all the time. I use the ovens for more than foods too. I make leather masks and I heat the leather ever so slightly so it will become more malleable and keep its shape. I hope if it comes to needing oven parts, they will be out there available somewhere also. Knowing what I do now, I am thinking about a second hand stove or oven for this leather purpose. I don't want to strain the Flair ovens with the extra use and cleanings. | ||
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Post# 908991 , Reply# 24 11/29/2016 at 11:17 (2,716 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains) |
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Susan, | ||
| Post# 909151 , Reply# 25 11/30/2016 at 17:49 (2,715 days old) by artistathand (Winchester VA) | ||
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Frigidaire Flair Electric Range Room in kitchen
I was thinking of the comment on having enough room, that leaving the stove open is an option.
These were definitely made as space savers. I remember my neighbor had a knockoff of the Frigidaire with a burner tray like this. I can't remember who made it? Sears? Not sure. She had to close hers after cooking or she couldn't really get into her living room very well. I guess it was also an issue of... the cooking is starting, in the kitchen or out of the kitchen. We are lucky enough to have room to leave ours open despite the "efficiency" of this house. I wonder how many companies out there copied these stoves? | ||
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Post# 909169 , Reply# 27 11/30/2016 at 20:42 (2,715 days old) by DaveAMKrayoGuy (Oak Park, MI) |
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| Post# 909172 , Reply# 28 11/30/2016 at 21:51 (2,715 days old) by norgeway (mocksville n c ) | ||
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Forgot that!!Yes it was called the Continental. It was nice because there was a shelf behind the units you could keep things warm on. | ||
| Post# 909221 , Reply# 29 12/1/2016 at 09:52 (2,715 days old) by artistathand (Winchester VA) | ||
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Frigidaire Flair Electric Range SO many
Wow, I had no idea there were so many of these types of stoves.
Sounds like you have just scratched the surface. I do believe I was right then about the neighbors being a Sears. Along with being space savers, I heard these were a less expensive or less intensive design to imitate the wall ovens. Anyone have photos of any of these favorites named above? But there is Google, now that I know who made them. That warming shelf sounds like an excellent idea. I see those sometimes on some of the newer stoves. One of my relatives bought a new stove about 3 years ago. I don't know the brand but it is one of the smooth solid electric cooktop programmable models that are popular now. She was showing me all the features and I noticed it brought up warming tray in the program panel. We searched and found out it was under the oven and she was using it for storage. She loves that feature and uses it all the time now. | ||
| Post# 1081373 , Reply# 30 7/17/2020 at 11:35 (1,391 days old) by Artistathand (Winchester VA) | ||
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Frigidaire Flair Electric Range Short Necked Susie
Hello,
Long time no speak! I guess signing in would have been a good thing. Duh I hope all is well with everyone out there. I'm thinking that staying home and using our wonderful old ovens is probably being done now more than ever. A short recap of me if my feed doesn't show up... I have the Frigidaire Deluxe Electric Range with 2 ovens with a pull out tray. I shared info and you all helped with the dilemma I had with one burnt out burner. With all that solved, I have purchased another single wall oven that appears to be the same as my stove in the kitchen. It a summer kitchen/art oven that has been installed in my garage. I have used it 3 times for food cooking and it is running about 28 degrees hotter than it should. My question is - not surprisingly - is there a way these can be adjusted? I haven't explored enough to see if there is a senser that needs replacing. Each time I used the oven, I needed 400 degrees. Each time it seemed to get hotter by around 28 degrees. I can remember and calibrate in my head but I wondered if there was an adjustment. I can easily get into this one for service. I couldn't read that serial number in this shot. I don't think it will help but it is 40007013 Thank you all Susie | ||
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Post# 1081412 , Reply# 31 7/17/2020 at 16:15 (1,390 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Temperature Adjustment On A FD Oven
These can be adjusted, review the instructions in a service manual for 60s FD ovens.
If it is only off 28 degrees I would not brother trying adjusting the thermostat, often the tiny adjustment screw in the thermostats shaft is sized after 50+ years and you may easily either ruin the TS or make it worse, just set it a little lower than needed. John L. | ||
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Post# 1081446 , Reply# 32 7/17/2020 at 19:37 (1,390 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI) |
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I tuned up the oven temps in my '59 Custom Imperial range with out issue. the set screw moved easily in my case,ymmv... | ||
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Post# 1081592 , Reply# 33 7/19/2020 at 09:22 (1,389 days old) by panthera (Rocky Mountains) |
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All well here, suggestion Generally speaking, these ovens are well known for their inaccurate thermostats. I've read that swings of 25F were normal for that time - and 28F, if it's consistent, is close enough. I'd leave it be and not risk a greater problem, personally. One of our Custom Imperials runs about that much hot in the right oven - I just treat it as if it were a convection oven and things turn out just fine (temp lowered by about that much). The other one and both left ovens run fairly close to the desired temp, but swing a lot between cycles. If you do decide to adjust, you might want to be super careful with that screw. If it doesn't respond easily (and it takes very little movement to make a big adjustment), I'd leave it be. I would not use my usual threadlocker treatment on it.
We've been using one of the Custom Imperials a lot this summer and my husband is finally getting used to the 'never run on high' settings for the burners after much burned everything. Having grown up with one, I have had the opposite problem adjusting to GE Calrods - tend to start at too low of a heat.
And, to repeat myself yet again - never, ever believe what anyone tells you about a certain 'date'/model meaning absolutely anything with a General Motors Frigidaire appliance. GM not only made flying, undocumented changes, they also used older parts as well as newer, undocumented parts in their appliances all the time.
We have a 1967 Custom Deluxe refrigerator (pretty close to bottom of the line) which runs perfectly and has a far more elaborate automatic defrosting system than the manual claims it has. Either replaced sometime in the past or GM just happened to have the parts on hand and threw them in. We have a 1957/58/59 Thumper which has parts that any expert here will tell you can not and were not ever used by the factory in those years...and yet, there they are and no tool marks to show they were changed out.
What you have before you in one of these wonderful appliances is reality, not what somebody 'knows' was the right part for a given model/year.
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| Post# 1081618 , Reply# 34 7/19/2020 at 13:15 (1,388 days old) by Artistathand (Winchester VA) | ||
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Frigidaire Flair Electric Range Short Necked Susie
Thank you all!
And good to communicate again. I appreciate the time and information. I was thinking of just leaving it alone too but my husband is a spot on guy. I am going to convince him to leave it for now, though my curiosity is piqued on how it is done. I may secretly look at a manual...hehehehe but still leave things if they stay at the 28 degrees. I want more time to judge if it is consistent at the 28 degrees that I think it is even at a lower temp, though if it was inconsistent I wouldn't think the range of the heating would make a difference. I love that these older appliances are being appreciated. I am guessing they all need to be treated like an old friend, accepting each others quirks. Thank you again, Short Necked Susie | ||
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