Thread Number: 68170
/ Tag: Vintage Dryers
Any info on this Kenmore Dryer is appreciated |
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Post# 908933 , Reply# 1   11/28/2016 at 21:33 (2,705 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)   |   | |
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Post# 908936 , Reply# 2   11/28/2016 at 22:01 (2,705 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Post# 908937 , Reply# 3   11/28/2016 at 22:17 (2,705 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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I went to www.SearsPartsDirect.com... and typed in MOST of the model #, 110.71178 , and got these diagrams. Tons of parts are interchangeable,but more importantly this shows the insides so you can clean the blower and all the tubes inside, not just the exterior vent. But start there.
Sears sold Whirpool-built dryers for decades, under the name Kenmore, the insides are remarkably similar. These diagrams show how the front comes off, how the blower is right behind the motor in the lower right corner, etc. While cleaning, get a few drops of oil on the motor bearings at both ends. Also, wipe clean any thermostats you get near, they can get quite covered in lint through the years. Take more pictures and let us know how it goes. Also, with the lower front kick panel removed, take a picture- in the dark-- of the flame. These machines, with minor repair, run for decades. |
Post# 908939 , Reply# 4   11/28/2016 at 22:46 (2,705 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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Post# 908957 , Reply# 6   11/29/2016 at 05:49 (2,705 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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It's a somewhat unusual model that I don't recall seeing previously. I noticed the timer is on the Timed Cycle in the picture. Is that what you normally use? Why not the Automatic All Fabric Cycle, which uses the electronic sensor to automatically adjust running time per the load characteristics and selected dryness level (Dryest = maximum, 6 = minimum, 3 or 4 would be considered "normal" dry)? Does the Automatic cycle not work?
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Post# 908966 , Reply# 7   11/29/2016 at 07:20 (2,705 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Try running the dryer with the vent disconnected for several loads and see if it works normally, if not you may have weak gas valve coils on the gas burner assembly.
There is an excellent repair guy named Bob who is pretty close to you that really knows these older model dryers, His company is Bobs Appliance Service Ph # 216-521-9353 |
Post# 909023 , Reply# 8   11/29/2016 at 17:16 (2,704 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)   |   | |
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Post# 909536 , Reply# 10   12/3/2016 at 23:33 (2,700 days old) by rp2813 (Sannazay)   |   | |
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Post# 909576 , Reply# 11   12/4/2016 at 10:21 (2,699 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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Post# 912998 , Reply# 12   12/29/2016 at 12:18 (2,674 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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And home in the garage, but I think I found the entire problem, worst lint filter I've ever seen, check out the before and after pics, 2 each(somehow I uploaded 5?) I soaked it in PineSol about a half hour, then scrubbed with a fingernail brush, it had goop caked on the screen, and it turned on the filter light the instant I put the filter in.
There's also PLENTY of lint inside the base of the machine, I doubt it was cleaned since 1971, a fire waiting to happen for sure. Now that the screen is clean, it no longer trips the FILTER light, which is cool for sure. It's gonna wait in the garage a bit with no gas, my basement has enough winter projects already half done (also known as never finished). |
Post# 912999 , Reply# 13   12/29/2016 at 12:28 (2,674 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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Check out where the Buzzer dial is, never saw it there before(Pic upside down, the switch is underneath the filter door). And what does the Normal versus KNITS Wrinkle Guard switch do? I know it's just on/off for extra tumbling, would NORMAL be extra tumble or Knits? The other way just ends without continued tumbling. I'm guessing KNITS gives the continued tumble. And that LINT light really works, it was on non-stop until I cleaned that filter.
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Post# 913000 , Reply# 14   12/29/2016 at 12:34 (2,674 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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Check out the PULSER TIMER. What does that mean or do?
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Post# 913017 , Reply# 16   12/29/2016 at 13:57 (2,674 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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It was nice to meet you, and I'm glad I got this machine and you're glad you got a new one! Find a new repairman next time, they should NEVER have left 45 years of lint in the dryer. All in all, it's a perfect find for me. There's no such thing as a spotlessly clean 45 year old dryer, it'll be a good project to tear it apart, get all the lint out of all the tubes and blower, and clean up the motor and lube it. Keith, I liked your neighborhood, looks peaceful and family-oriented. Thanks for your help this morning-- Mark |
Post# 913023 , Reply# 17   12/29/2016 at 14:40 (2,674 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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Don't feel bad about that filter. Numerous folks here talked about airflow and vents and no one ever asked what condition the filter was in, me included. Next time I'll remember. And your paid repairman never looked at it either, so don't try him again. With normal lint removed, most used filters should look like a dusty window screen, able to see through it damn well but wishing there wasn't so much dust coming into the house!
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Post# 913034 , Reply# 19   12/29/2016 at 16:26 (2,674 days old) by pulltostart (Mobile, AL)   |   | |
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I don't think that rocker switch is connected to the "Wrinkle Guard" feature, it just happens to be next to that proclamation on the panel; just as the start button has no relationship to the "Soft Heat" badge on the other side.
My guess is it either changes temperature settings or set-points or similar during the Automatic cycle. I'm definitely not an appliance repairman and others on here are much more well-informed. Maybe one of them can clear up your question.
lawrence |
Post# 913077 , Reply# 20   12/29/2016 at 23:13 (2,674 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 969818 , Reply# 21   11/25/2017 at 07:07 (2,344 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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And runs wonderfully, but also needs to be taken apart and de-linted EVREYWHERE. What I don't understand is that there are both moisture sensors in the drum(rear bulkhead) AND a timer knob where the schematic shows 45 minutes of timer running when the thermo is not calling for heat. That suggests a routine timer-versus-heat set-up, but then why the moisture sensors?
It also has a pulse timer, about every minute it tumbles to prevent wrinkling, and an adjustable buzzer, and Hi-Low-Air, etc, pretty deluxe. And both a drum light and a console light!
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Post# 969827 , Reply# 22   11/25/2017 at 08:04 (2,344 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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that pulse timer, which is usually mounted on the upper right hand bulkhead is for the Wrinkle Guard.....
an added feature back then....not incorporated into the regular timer yet.... I am going to speculate the 'normal/knit' switch is for temps, high/low... for service techs, were not required to clean the lint out of a machine, for say, if you called in for a broken belt, or heating issue... speaking of which, lets take this machine for example....lint light on all the time....were there to fix just that, the light, most likely just clean the lint screen as Mark did, the port that activates the light, and that's it!... they can mention that the lint needs cleaned out, but most times, if it wasn't requested beforehand, another service call is required.... now if and when you called for service, you requested the machine to be cleaned out of all lint, lubricate the rollers and such, that's a woile other charge....cleaning out the vent line from the dryer to the point it exits the house, some places don't do that, or it will be another extra charge.... same thing applies for a washer...lets say it required a belt or pump replacement....that's all that is to be completed....test to make sure it works, and then move on......cleaning the detergent build up, the ring around the tub/agitator....not part of the service call.... this is the same thing when having a new machine delivered....usually with a gas dryer, the delivery guys wont touch it, you must call a plumber for that...with an electric, only a new plug can be installed by them....its a liability thing... they may remove the old appliance, and possible broom clean the area.....but no more....and the machine gets hooked back up to the existing vent lint, if clogged, that's the responsibility of the homeowner, not the delivery crew..... your given 'X' amount of work orders, and a time frame for each one....if you spend too much time at one place, they will call you, as to what is taking so long.... as with any business, time is money...... local guys may have some lead way....theres many reasons why some places will charge 85.00 for a service charge, and others 200.00+ just to show up.... |
Post# 969828 , Reply# 23   11/25/2017 at 08:11 (2,344 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Post# 969829 , Reply# 24   11/25/2017 at 08:20 (2,343 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Bob, there's an Air/Heat toggle switch at bottom of the console on the left side. Presumably the moisture sensor controls the timer motor on the Automatic All Fabric Cycle, in the same the way the thermostat does for auto-dry when a direct moisture sensor is not involved -- timer stalls when damp clothes close the circuit across the sensor bars, timer runs when the circuit is open. Common method for moisture-sensor models that have a mechanical timer instead of fully electronic controls. |
Post# 969833 , Reply# 25   11/25/2017 at 08:52 (2,343 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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DIRTIEST LINT FIRE TRAP I EVER SAW, now that I started dis-assembly. 46 years old, holy crap. Martin, you are correct. The previous owner said it was serviced, and there's clearly a clean and neat crimp on a wire to the door switch. Other than that, no one EVER cleaned this thing up.
So that's this weekend's project, and it ran damn fine to begin with!!!! Wp/KM knew how to build a dryer, and I really think that with a COMPLETE delint and lube, this is a fine machine, probably one or 2 steps down from a Lady. Look at the flammable mess surrounding the burner assembly. And clogging the inlet to the drum. |
Post# 969867 , Reply# 26   11/25/2017 at 13:13 (2,343 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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I deserve a coca cola
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Post# 972231 , Reply# 27   12/7/2017 at 20:59 (2,331 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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So, I did a total cleanout, de-lint, lube, installed a new gasket where the exhaust port hits the rear bulkhead, a re-glued nice gasket where the exhaust upright hits the blower housing, a new glow bar igniter. I forgot the drum bulb so far, and the flourescent bulb, I'll get them soon. This 46 year old machine dries evenly, perfectly, buzzes when done, runs for around 30 seconds every minute after the cycle is done for wrinkle prevention( and buzzes each time) and is a workhorse of fine 70's Kenmore/Whirlpool engineering. Hot damn it's like brand new!
Problem: How do I re-install the darn lower front? These weird clips just don't want to go in, they pop out in a second after they get mangled and lose their springiness. Have I got them in right? This is all that's left to complete a makeover rebuild. And those burned out bulbs. |
Post# 972300 , Reply# 28   12/8/2017 at 07:16 (2,331 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Great job Mark, WP sells a clip kit to reattach these lower front panels.
PS your Wrinkle-Guard cycle should tumble for 10 seconds every 5 minutes for a total of about two hours unless you remove the clothing sooner, the WG cycle was a great idea that really helped prevent wrinkling and even if the clothes were left in the dryer for the full 2 1/2 hours it only resulted in the dryer running without heat for about 5 minutes.
John L. |
Post# 1064758 , Reply# 29   3/27/2020 at 04:05 (1,491 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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This GREAT drier needs a new motor, I've got an Ebay one and will work on it today. While I'm at it, I want to swap out the low temp cycling thermostat for an adjustable one, see pics. Which of these 3 should I be replacing? The one on the lower left, red label with a white line though it, says 135 degrees. Is that likely the HIGH or the LOW?
This post was last edited 03/27/2020 at 04:25 |
Post# 1064776 , Reply# 30   3/27/2020 at 09:45 (1,490 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 1064813 , Reply# 31   3/27/2020 at 14:08 (1,490 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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Post# 1064847 , Reply# 32   3/27/2020 at 19:54 (1,490 days old) by bendixmark (Winchester Mass)   |   | |
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Those adjustable thermostats are bad news.I had one nearly burn up a customers dryer.For that matter aftermarket thermostats tend to be cheap junk.I only use whirlpool originals. |
Post# 1064854 , Reply# 33   3/27/2020 at 21:28 (1,490 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 1064978 , Reply# 34   3/28/2020 at 20:49 (1,489 days old) by akronman (Akron/Cleveland Ohio)   |   | |
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Open 120, Close 105, non-adjustable. It was in my basement! She's up and running again, cycles very low temp on the new thermo. And I installed a new flourescent bulb, all is good.
My favorite thing about this drier, besides how wonderfully it works, is the adjustable buzzer. Other old driers don't buzz, or buzz even if it's just socks and underwear. This one, I decide for each load! Thanks to John--- Mark
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