Thread Number: 68243
/ Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Need to Decide on a washer |
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Post# 909738 , Reply# 1   12/5/2016 at 12:40 (2,710 days old) by Laundromat (Hilo, Hawaii)   |   | |
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IMHO. LG makes the best washers and dryers. I've had both their top and front loading models and they got my clothes really clean and fresh smelling, dried them fast and were fun to watch. I had one that needed an overhaul but lava and sand from the beach caused that.I found it at tube dump and LG sent the parts. The tub,bearings, pump,and drum were all replaced and $325 was the cost for all the parts.I sold it for $600.That was two years ago. No problems and a happy customer.
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Post# 909747 , Reply# 4   12/5/2016 at 13:16 (2,710 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
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Post# 909773 , Reply# 8   12/5/2016 at 16:58 (2,710 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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no need to wipe the machine down, leave doors/drawers open....
your into an HE world, a few things will have to change a bit over a regular TL machine.... basically, your allowed one cold wash, every tenth load, no more!....at least one load a week should be hot from the tap, or boosted if available, and BLEACH!, such as a white load... warm or hot washes, ALWAYS....and this means checking your temps...is warm really warm, or dubbed down to cool?...if your water heater is not set high enough, and especially in colder seasons, you may have to wash strictly in hot.... a good detergent, like Tide, Gain, Persil, etc.....even a few boosters if needed, color safe bleach, ammonia, borax.... for an HE machine, softener can be used, just diluted down....mix your bottle 50/50 with water, one tablespoon is more than enough.... getting past the mental part of what your used to with a standard TLer is not always easy, but giving any HE machine proper water temps/chemical, and let it do it's thing, it really can turn out clean laundry.... the hardest part is adapting to the machine..... if you do feel a need to change back.....just about any DirectDrive machine would fit the bill....will most likely be used, but are available in plentiful numbers...I have 3 sets available for sale if your interested... manufacturers have been slapping multiple names on machines for years....do you think Sears built Kenmore?... |
Post# 909831 , Reply# 11   12/6/2016 at 00:47 (2,709 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI)   |   | |
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What Yogi said can be boiled down to "Don't wash in cold water". Plain and simple.
I've had a front loader for 6 or 7 years, no issues, no mold and VERY clean clothes. But I have never used cold water. I will never consider anything but a front loader. |
Post# 909843 , Reply# 14   12/6/2016 at 05:30 (2,709 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
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Post# 909851 , Reply# 16   12/6/2016 at 06:35 (2,709 days old) by Gyrafoam (Wytheville, VA)   |   | |
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I adjusted the water level on all of our machines to get it back up to where it was meant to be. The Government interference causing SQ to back it off a bit every year. Ridiculous. |
Post# 909854 , Reply# 17   12/6/2016 at 07:05 (2,709 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
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Post# 909858 , Reply# 19   12/6/2016 at 08:15 (2,709 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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I am not trying to be rude, just the cold hard facts.....its not rocket science, and no magic wand....
no matter what, your going to spend time and money if you stay in your direction = but that's senseless!...and there's no need to... we sure don't do it...there are a lot of experts here who know what their talking about, we hear these types of stories all the time.... we know how machines get scummed up, filthy, moldly, mildewed....hate to tell you, it ain't the machine!... and we KNOW how to correct it...a little effort to bring them back, and they stay that way from there on... you only have one set to care for....many of us have a lot in our collection, we don't spend hours cleaning and scrubbing and a slave to our machines.....some windex and wax, and they stay bright for months....inside and out!... and you don't need to run any sort of 'clean washer' cycle....in fact, mine don't even have one, and doesn't need it either! for the most grimy of machines, bathroom cleaner with bleach and mildew/mold remover, and a heavy dose of pool chlorine on a long hot cycle....once and done, never needed again.....total cost under $10.00 these are just my front loaders, only one set was bought brand new in 2001, the rest came in all grimed up....can you find the new ones? |
Post# 909870 , Reply# 22   12/6/2016 at 09:22 (2,709 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA)   |   | |
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Post# 909875 , Reply# 23   12/6/2016 at 10:03 (2,709 days old) by brucelucenta ()   |   | |
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If Speed Queen would join the 21st century and put a heat boost on their front loaders, I would be interested in one the next time around. |
Post# 909896 , Reply# 24   12/6/2016 at 12:39 (2,709 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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you do realize a few things,
continue with the excess of cold washes, will only return the same mold concerns....the bellows is not the only thing that the mold has attached to, dispenser areas, hoses, the outside of the tub, plus the outter tub....if you only think its contained to one area, guess again... piling is caused by excessive rubbing of a traditional agitator, you wont have that with a front loader... a dryer, even on low temps, is going to run in areas of 140 to 160....so your subjecting those sheets in temps higher than washing in hot water... the coral color left behind on your sinks and showers is most likely PH levels out of whack....I get that too when my tanks run out....but it doesn't affect washing results, it does however kill any scents from detergents... are all your neighbors having the same issues with their washers, or just your location?.. sheets are finicky in a dryer....some will ball up, especially Queen/King with elastic all around the fitted sheet.....usually best to dry the sheets/pillowcases alone... adjusting water levels is done at your own risk.... |
Post# 909899 , Reply# 25   12/6/2016 at 12:50 (2,709 days old) by washman (o)   |   | |
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The choice is yours. Or as Packard Motor Car once advertised "...........ask the man who owns one". |
Post# 909929 , Reply# 29   12/6/2016 at 15:54 (2,709 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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yeah, finding pool chlorine at this time of year, going to be slim....
in any case, I get it at Lowes, you don't have to buy a big bucket, they are available as a small pouch, I think it holds like 2 or 3 cups....around 5.00... your next best bet.....Cascade Platinum powder dishwasher detergent...like your dishwasher, works best on hottest temps....and longest exposure normally 1 to 2 cups, depending on how bad the machine is, hottest wash cycle/option....and you may have to repeat this more than once....stopping the machine to let soak, the longer is has to work on the grime, the better.... might even be best to boil water on your stove, and then add that to the machine... |
Post# 909935 , Reply# 30   12/6/2016 at 16:28 (2,709 days old) by brucelucenta ()   |   | |
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Doesn't it have a heat boost option? |
Post# 909984 , Reply# 33   12/7/2016 at 05:32 (2,708 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)   |   | |
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I've had my Asko for just short of 20 years! I have never had to buy any of the washer cleaner treatments nor does it smell. I use fabric softener in every load, I have a water softener, and I use Clorox and very hot water in all my white loads. I don't think I've ever washed a load in cold water since I bought it new in 1997. The door is always left open. I can look through the spin holes in the drum to the stainless exterior tub and see that it's still shiny with no scummy buildup.
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Post# 910002 , Reply# 35   12/7/2016 at 08:13 (2,708 days old) by mayken4now (Panama City, Florida)   |   | |
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Steve (Gyrafoam) "Washers have become sewers for laundry."
Has to be one of the wittiest folks I have ever had the pleasure of meeting in person from AW!
OMG Steve, LMAO, you are hysterical, but ya know what?????????????????? Straight to the point and you are ALWAYS exactly correct. Your descriptions are perfect and fit every circumstance.
Good luck Ms. Lisa! You asked, they/we responded |
Post# 910004 , Reply# 36   12/7/2016 at 08:21 (2,708 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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yeah, I agree, the cost of a FLer, hoping in todays standards, you get 10 years out of it, only to finally pay for itself....where are your savings?
but yeah, for doing a lot of wash, the only savings I see, or rather the advantage to a FLer, is HOT WATER.....if your not using it, a FLer is worthless...detergent used to be a savings, until the special HE formulas came out, making them cost more.....no savings there... I went from a childhood one cycle wonder filter flo, to a TOL Kenmore with every bell and whistle on it.....for what?.....only to return to using Normal cycle, warm wash, cold rinse....never touching the other cycles.....I just don't see a need for all the fancy cycles and options.... plain jane machines seemed to last longer as well.... |
Post# 910024 , Reply# 38   12/7/2016 at 12:51 (2,708 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)   |   | |
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I too totally agree with Martin (Yogi). I have owned 6 different FL's over the years and my current washer is an LG WM3170CW that I have used for over 18 mo. I have never had an issue with mold or odors from any FL I've owned. I wash just about every load in hot, maybe 3 times a year I'll do a load in warm, but never cold. I use bleach in every load of whites and always use fabric softener. At the end of every use I take a clean wash cloth and dry the door window, gasket and dispenser drawer and leave the door and dispenser open while the clothes are drying. On the LG there is a magnet that keeps the door slighly ajar when not in use and I think this also helps keep the machine aired out.
And I also agree with Martin about the simple BOL machines being more practical. I almost never use any of the specialized cycles. I programmed my LG favorite cycle for the Perm Press cycle (it uses more water), hot wash normal soil level and water plus. This way I just have to press 3 buttons and the cycle begins. The only thing that I would change about the LG is make it less sensitive to finding a "sweet spot" for going into a spin. Seems like it could be programmed to begin at a slow spin speed to get the load distrubuted evenly and gradually pick up speed until it reaches the max spin speed for the cycle. The long time that it takes to go into a spin sometimes seems like a real waste of time. Eddie |
Post# 910057 , Reply# 42   12/7/2016 at 18:13 (2,708 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)   |   | |
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I know some of the newer FL models have a vent fan built into them, but I came across a universal retrofit fan online a few days ago. Anybody used one here? We don't need it since we always leave the door open but it might help some. One is velcro, the other is magnetic. A person doesn't have to spend a lot of money on their product, a small computer fan would work if one is a little handy.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO askolover's LINK |
Post# 910077 , Reply# 43   12/7/2016 at 20:53 (2,707 days old) by whirlykenmore78 (Prior Lake MN (GMT-0500 CDT.))   |   | |
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My SQ set came home last April (Front Loaders) see pic, and I couldn't be happier. There is NOTHING on the market toady to compare with SQ. Enjoy the SQ it will serve you well for years. Let's see some pics, here's one of my set WK78
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Post# 910094 , Reply# 46   12/8/2016 at 00:36 (2,707 days old) by Spinmon (st. charles mo )   |   | |
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Looks like I need to update my 'background'! '55-'96 Whirlpool,yes. Current,no way. |
Post# 910115 , Reply# 47   12/8/2016 at 07:03 (2,707 days old) by mrboilwash (Munich,Germany)   |   | |
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I`d keep it. Tossing such a nice and expensive washer after not even 4 years would be a "sin".
First of all you need to clean it thoroughly. Run the longest possible cycle empty with at least 2 cups of bleach. Do you have a sanitize or clean washer cycle? Those would be just perfect. Don`t forget to wipe down the rubber boot and the detergent drawer with bleach then rinse well. Next I would run another hot long cycle with dishwasher detergent. Put 3-4 dishwasher tabs into an old sock and place it directly into the drum. This way you keep the tabs from being caught in the door seal before they dissolve. Now that your washer is clean and free of mold you can keep it this way by following a few simple rules. No special pampering is required. #1 Detergent Don`t skimp on the quantity of a good detergent. Respect dosing instuctions. While it is true that FLs use less water and so the detergent gets less diluted you also have to consider the fact that the amount of soil the detergent has to deal with will still be the same. If there is any kind of nasty build up in a washer it is always the result of constant underdosing. A build up from using too much detergent is a total myth in my opinion. Go easy on the fabric softener, though. #2 Length of cycle If you dose correcty and still find your clothes aren`t as clean as you`d like them you might have used the wrong cycle. Front loades are very gentle on clothing compared to toploades but they require a longer washtime to get great results. Don`t be afraid of using long cycles intended for heavy soiled clothes even when washing daily loads. Your clothes will still last much longer than in any toploader. #3 Temperature Go easy on the number of cold wash cycles. If you cannot or don`t want to use chorine bleach on a regular basis you could use the sanitize cycle at least sometimes for sturdy things like towels or sheets. Don`t take the care labels too seriously use common sense instead. #4 Ventilation Leave at least the door and when possible the detergent drawer open when the washer is not in use. There shouldn`t be any need to wipe dry anything, just let it airdry and leave open. Doesn`t look good but it is essential for a happy front loader. If you follow a few simple rules you`re gonna love your FL. Promise! |
Post# 910118 , Reply# 48   12/8/2016 at 07:17 (2,707 days old) by joeypete (Concord, NH)   |   | |
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Post# 910146 , Reply# 50   12/8/2016 at 12:10 (2,707 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O )   |   | |
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Have you had your water properly tested by a lab. From the sounds of it sounds to me like you have a high iron content if you're getting that light reddish (coral colored?) residue. Many people try or are told to solve the iron issue with a water softener which helps somewhat but doesn't work anywhere near as good as a dedicated whole house iron filter (which looks somewhat like a water softener) . Plus with an iron filter there's no salt to add etc.. |
Post# 910288 , Reply# 51   12/9/2016 at 06:37 (2,706 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Hi Stefan, [ mrboilwash ] Your advice is 100% on the money, I should print it out and give it out to our customers.
Hi Lisa, you are correct that you should not use a lot of bleach if your waste water goes into a septic tank, but using a little is going to be less harmful than going back to a TL washer where you a dumping 50 gallons of water into the ST every load instead of 15 gallons. A FL washer like yours only needs a 1/4 cup of bleach to do its work compared to over 1 cup in a TL washer and it is OK to bleach dark clothing and certainly the dogs towels etc.
Yesterday I was working on 1990 Maytag TL washer on Capital Hill and it was a stinky-slimy-moldy mess we were scraping mold and gunk from under the tub cover and top of the wash tub with a putty knife, that was gross.
The problem with going back to a TL washer is you have to use a lot more detergent and about 6 times as much hot water to get close to the cleaning efficiency of a FL washer, none of witch is good for the septic tank or your budget. |
Post# 910346 , Reply# 54   12/9/2016 at 12:45 (2,706 days old) by Kb0nes (Burnsville, MN)   |   | |
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When running cycles to clean the machine don't run the machine empty, wash a full load of absorbant rags or old towels. Without any laundry to hold water to spin out, you will have minimal incidental splash in the top of the drum. A full load will spin out water all over the drum.
Another helpful hint is to switch detergents frequently, different formulations work better against different deposits. With proper usage a front load machine will never get smelly. Any you get to enjoy the improved performance a front load machine offers in cleaning ability, capacity, efficiency and increased garment life. No doubt the Speed Queen top loaders are solid machines, but I'd never choose one, especially on a septic system. |
Post# 910398 , Reply# 55   12/9/2016 at 19:17 (2,706 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Your Maytag used the quoted amount of water for a full cycle ... two fills, one for wash & one for rinse, so only half the total is for the wash water.
My guess is that the quoted SQ water use is for the Normal Eco cycle which does not run a full-fill rinse, so you're closer with it on a single fill to the Maytag amount than you think in regards to detergent dosing requirements. |
Post# 910466 , Reply# 56   12/10/2016 at 10:21 (2,705 days old) by Johnb300m (Chicago)   |   | |
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I really must disagree here with the claim of putting articles into a Clean Washer cycle.
Especially if you use the designated "basket clean" or "clean washer" cycle. My Maxima spins the basket very quickly in both directions to wash water up around the boot and around the whole tub. Washers today will often SENSE whether there are clothing in this cycle. If it senses articles in the clean washer cycle, it will stop and error out. RUN THIS CYCLE EMPTY with designated machine cleaner, dishwaher tabs or just pure chlorine bleach. For front loaders, I highly recommend (from experience) if you're using Tide or OxiClean machine cleaners, use less than the recommended dosage. These suds up far more than Whirlpool's "Affresh." And I had suds pouring out the back of my machine through the vents. You've been warned. Good luck. |
Post# 910469 , Reply# 57   12/10/2016 at 10:37 (2,705 days old) by Frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)   |   | |
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I was going to mention the same thing, John. And thanks for the tip about not using Tide Washing Machine Cleaner in the Maytag Maxima. Since procuring one about a year-and-a-half ago, I switched from the Tide product to Affresh, as per machine instructions. The manual also states the machine will abort the cycle if it senses anything in the tub.
The 'clean' cycle on my 2010 Frigidaire was very anemic. Not enough water; not enough action to scrub the boot or outer tub. Phil's advice about filling the tub with rags would have worked perfectly with that machine. The Maxima, on the other hand is definitely a hurricane in a box! There's no doubt scrubbing water action is reaching the top of the outer tub. I've only run the 'clean' cycle three times in a year-and-a-half, primarily to watch the dramatic water action, LOL. I use chlorine bleach and boosted hot water temps frequently, so doubt there's much build-up. No tell-tale funky smells, at any rate. |
Post# 910473 , Reply# 58   12/10/2016 at 10:57 (2,705 days old) by msmaiden (new england)   |   | |
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I am not on a well but on town water. I want a machine that will actually fill up. I realize others have to consider how much they use ie my own mother has a well. The eco cycle is an option for those who need it. |
Post# 910494 , Reply# 59   12/10/2016 at 12:23 (2,705 days old) by mark_wpduet (Lexington KY)   |   | |
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I didn't realize you had a Maxima - Anyway - My duet is before FL machines started having designated clean washer cycles - I later found out mine has one built in but you have to enter a sequence to get it to work - I only use LCB when using the clean washer cycle. It fills with a LOT of water and rotates the drum really FAST, almost literally spinning with a tub full of water (both directions) - the ONLY problem with mine is it doesn't use HOT water, only warm....so it doesn't do as good of a job as later machines with some built in ones. I don't even think the heater is even active in mine during the clean washer cycle.....I hardly ever use it anyway, but I have used it a few times. It's pretty wild to watch. Good to know about the machine cleaners and not using too much.
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Post# 910889 , Reply# 62   12/13/2016 at 04:01 (2,702 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)   |   | |
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I think they say not to cut them open because they are supposed to open themselves in the wash. I used them for a long time (have some now) and have never had a problem with them not dissolving...but I have never washed a load in cold water. Every load I wash is either in very warm or hot. I don't know what would cause them to not dissolve properly.
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Post# 910891 , Reply# 63   12/13/2016 at 04:21 (2,702 days old) by LordKenmore (The Laundry Room)   |   | |
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I'm not sure about Method detergent. I had a small supply (trial bottle from Target), and I felt that it seemed like there was some buildup in the washer tub. Not sure if it was Method, the washer (which was a piece of junk), or just my bad luck... I'd try it again, but I'd be careful to keep an eye and nose out for signs of buildup.
I think some have argued that using different detergents might help keep the machine cleaner.
I do tend to like using different detergents...but part of that is I get bored with the same detergent. Plus there is something to say for detergents for different jobs. |
Post# 910935 , Reply# 66   12/13/2016 at 10:50 (2,702 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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110!.....theres part of your issue right there.....120 is usually the minimum, but not by a long shot, although its a scald safe zone, not all bacteria is killed in your water tank alone, and think, you may be drinking this....
if your machine has a heater, highly recommended it is used, as much as possible.... none of mine have a heater, for some, it works well, as it only climbs to about 140 on most machines......my water heater is set at 160..... you have to consider, how cold is your incoming water, mixed with a low temp hot side, there can't be much of a warm temp.....AND, how far is your tank from the washer?.....are you purging the water line before starting the washer?.... most of the newer HE machines are using only around 3 gallons for a fill up....that's nothing if hot water is used.... plus you have to get past the mental thoughts of using an HE machine.....think of it as washing your hands, your not adding a lot of water and a bit of soap, its the other way around, a heavy concentration of soap, a little bit of water, and once cleaned, then a good rinse... HE machines work well as a heavy chemical lather, gentle tumbling, even a soak period....and then several rinses to get rid of all the dirty water.... not saying that some of us have the same thought process.....all I can say, as my machines drain into a sink......wash water comes out dirty, the last rinse is clear, and the clothes are clean......puzzling, but I can't argue with the results... |
Post# 910936 , Reply# 67   12/13/2016 at 10:55 (2,702 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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I had a curious thought.......I took a mason jar, added ice and water, and one TIDE pod.....shook it up for a while....to my surprise, it wouldn't dissolve!...
my thought was any contact with water and it would burst open, guess I was wrong....definitely needs a warm to hot supply to bust it open.... cant seem to find Tide Cold Water liquid on the shelves anymore, at least in my area....wonder why?
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Post# 910937 , Reply# 68   12/13/2016 at 10:59 (2,702 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Post# 910962 , Reply# 69   12/13/2016 at 13:33 (2,702 days old) by appnut (TX)   |   | |
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Post# 910979 , Reply# 70   12/13/2016 at 14:27 (2,702 days old) by Frigilux (The Minnesota Prairie)   |   | |
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Great experiment with the Tide Pod, Martin! Cold tap water is around 43 degrees in the dead of a Minnesota winter. Not quite ice cold, but close. Back in my pod days, I washed the occasional load in temp-controlled cold (around 60 degrees) with no problems. Gotta admit, I love letting my Maytag Maxima 8100 dose the (liquid) detergent according to sensed load size, soil level, etc. It does a great job. Pods will work in the Maytag---as with the 2010 Frigidaire, the tub doesn't rotate until water begins to enter---but I'm a liquids guy, now.
Persil ProClean 2-in-1 Tide Stain Release HE Tide Cold Water Clean HE Woolite For Darks (my beloved Perwoll Black Intensive has become hard to get and very expensive) |
Post# 911018 , Reply# 71   12/13/2016 at 19:28 (2,702 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)   |   | |
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Post# 911483 , Reply# 72   12/17/2016 at 09:28 (2,698 days old) by AquaCycle (West Yorkshire, UK)   |   | |
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Just some input from someone who has never owned a toploader (because we just don't have them here!)...
I have never ever had a washer go moldy on me. It's become more of a problem in recent years in the UK (never used to be) for a number of reasons. The rise in popularity of cool temperature washes and liquid detergents is directly responsible. Constant washing with a liquid detergent at low temperatures will cause the rubber seal on a front load washer to go moldy. It doesn't matter what washing machine you get, it will happen. Whilst I appreciate that cool water washes and liquid detergents have their place, you can't use them exclusively. The best thing to do is, once a week as your final wash, gather all your towels and cloths and wash them on a long hot wash (minimum 60 degrees) with a good bleach-containing powder detergent. Doesn't matter if they're coloured towels, oxy bleach doesn't cause any noticeable fading for a long time. Towels should have a hot wash anyway, but the combination of the hot water and powder detergent will keep the machine clean and fresh. The science is quite simply - powder detergents contain oxy bleach whilst liquids don't. So all the bacteria on your clothes - from underwear, arm pits, socks, bedding, cleaning cloths etc isn't being killed. Infact, you're creating a lovely damp environment for it to thrive on. So all the bacteria on your underwear is transfering to all your other laundry because it's not being killed in the washing machine. My mother in law's washer absolute stank and was moldy around the door seal. As soon as she ditched liquids and pods and went back to using powder, the mold disappeared. My FL Miele is 7 years old and there's not a spec of mold on it. |