Thread Number: 73711  /  Tag: Air Conditioners
Honeywell thermostat
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Post# 973536   12/13/2017 at 20:16 (311 days old) by fan-of-fans (Florida)        

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I always liked the round Honeywell thermostats that you used to see, particularly when the house also had round a/c vents. I noticed they do still make these round thermostats, but of course they're plastic. There is a digital version too that works similarly by turning the dial and has a green backlight.

Post# 973550 , Reply# 1   12/13/2017 at 21:59 (311 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor)        

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I have 2 Honeywell round thermostats, one up, one down that were installed 22+ years ago. Being the wind chill with brutal temps is sub-zero right now, they kick on the boiler exactly where I leave them set and I am comfortable. I leave the temp set and dont want a digital up-down. Set it and forget it is what I do.

Post# 973551 , Reply# 2   12/13/2017 at 22:06 (311 days old) by johnrk (BP TX)        
My Home

was built in the mid 60's. When I bought it 20 years ago it still had the original round Honeywell thermostat, the one that they used to advertise in magazines. And yes, the vents in my ceilings are those round ones with a rod to pull with a knob on the end, to cut off the air flow. I love those round vents, too.

I miss seeing the huge ones that used to be in mid century department stores.

Post# 973555 , Reply# 3   12/13/2017 at 22:21 (311 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O )        

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Our house still has its original Honeywell roundie from 1958.. Since we have boiler heat there's no point in changing it to something more modern with setbacks and setting for non existant air conditioning , we have a mini split for that.

I put one of the new plastic roundies in moms house about 9 years ago and I had to get it in Michigan because all the ones in Ontario are in celcius. She didn't like celcius because there's not as many degree markers on the dials plus she was old and liked her Fahrenheit. lol

Post# 973557 , Reply# 4   12/13/2017 at 22:29 (311 days old) by johnrk (BP TX)        

What's a 'mini split'?

Post# 973565 , Reply# 5   12/13/2017 at 23:32 (311 days old) by GusHerb (Chicago/NWI)        

I have a collection of T87's and even some T86's and other various old thermostats. I love the styling and simplicity of the T87, and I love the complexity of the electromechanical setback thermostats.

I have installed and used a few of them here but ultimately technology wins out in this case. Digital thermostats, particularly Honeywell are just unbeatable in temperature control. The T87's are almost as good as a digital Honeywells for heating but fall way short for cooling. Plus I really like being able to control everything from my phone, which I can't do with a T87.

As for the digital Round models those were never a reliable thermostat, they used triacs for switching which often failed, and I've seen many where the thermistors have gone haywire. I always thought a digital thermostat the shape of a T87 was cool though, they even had a programmable one 15+ years back. The electronic T87N that replaced the T87F is fairly reliable though.

Post# 973569 , Reply# 6   12/13/2017 at 23:57 (311 days old) by petek (Ontari ari ari O )        

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Mini split, ductless a/c since we don't have forced air heating/ac


Post# 973701 , Reply# 7   12/14/2017 at 21:12 (310 days old) by fan-of-fans (Florida)        

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My grandmother's house had one of the metal round ones on her central a/c system.

I too miss the big round diffusers in stores. My local Winn Dixie and Bealls Outlet still have them despite the stores being remodeled. My old Publix used to have them also and some of the stores in that strip mall still have the smaller ones such as the barber shop, laundromat, and a space that I think is an office of some sort but has a post office walk up window.

And on Honeywells, my house used to have a rectangular Honeywell thermostat that was gold. It had a circle on the left of the face that showed the room temperature around its perimeter. It was replaced with a digital thermostat that says "Simple Comfort 2000" on it. It was an old Fedders HVAC system.

Post# 973824 , Reply# 8   12/15/2017 at 16:06 (309 days old) by gfm8959 (Long Island, NY)        

Do they really save fuel or is it better to "set and forget" at one constant setting??

Post# 973828 , Reply# 9   12/15/2017 at 16:45 (309 days old) by GusHerb (Chicago/NWI)        

That is purely dependent on the home itself, the length of the setback, the efficiency & sizing of the equipment and whether you're setting back in cooling or heating mode.

The best case for a setback is an average insulated to leaky/uninsulated home with an oversized 80-90% efficient forced air furnace. The worst case would be a well insulated/sealed home with radiant floor heat or any kind of radiators.

If you have a furnace sized per Manual J and have a decently insulated home then an 8 hour setback of even a few degrees could wind up costing you more in fuel reheating the home than just leaving it set to what you desire all the time. You certainly don't wanna do more than a 3 degree setback with a properly sized forced air system, or hydronic system. In more than one case I've found it cheaper to leave the thermostat alone after replacing equipment with something more efficient and properly sizing it.

For A/C it's best to leave it alone in almost all cases.

Post# 973830 , Reply# 10   12/15/2017 at 16:52 (309 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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I collect Honeywell stuff, mostly thermostats!

I have a few that I'll probably never use but I like them anyway!

The round one in my kitchen is labeled as a Crane, I have a similar NOS cooling thermostat that I don't use since I don't have central a/c. There used to be an humidificator the humidistat was left there when the previous owners removed it. I have no idea how it worked since I have hot water heating, no ducting. I also have Honeywell Tap Lite switches.
The thermostat for the bedrooms is a rectangular Honeywell too. The one in the garage is newer round thermostat but still quite old. I also have an indoor/outdoor thermometer and quite a few old Honeywell thermometers.

I also have a few with a setback timer, including two round ones with a mechanical timer.

Here are a few pictures.

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Post# 973836 , Reply# 11   12/15/2017 at 17:17 (309 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

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Family's 1964 house had a Honeywell of this style.  Heat-only system.

Had separate Heat (left side) and Cool (right side) setpoint levers on top.  Cool was always at the max end of the range although it wouldn't do anything regardless of the setting.

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Post# 974018 , Reply# 12   12/16/2017 at 12:52 (309 days old) by GusHerb (Chicago/NWI)        

These are the two drawers dedicated to thermostats. I need to thin out some of the digital thermostats.

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Post# 974019 , Reply# 13   12/16/2017 at 13:04 (309 days old) by moparwash (Pittsburgh,PA -Next Wash-In...June 2019!)        
Digital Round

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Here is the Digital Round, that I replaced the non-digital one in 2007. It displays the room temperature, but when you turn the dial, it shows the set temperature and automatically lights up when you turn the knob. You can push the light button to light it up as well. 70-72 is good in the winter and 76-77 is good in the summer. When I got it, the instructions in English were missing, so it was either wing it on the installation (which was not hard), or learn Spanish!

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Post# 974036 , Reply# 14   12/16/2017 at 14:24 (309 days old) by cuffs054 (MONTICELLO, GA)        

My Aunt had an old Honeywell that I never understood how it functioned. It was tall and narrow with a metal case and no switches. It controlled a Frigidaire ground source, water cooled AC and propane furnace combo. To switch from c to h there was a large crank handle mounted near the top of the unit between the cooling and heating sides. When the handle was cranked it sounded very much like a large damper moved to block off either side. That was all there was for controls. The thermostat controlled both functions.

Post# 974048 , Reply# 15   12/16/2017 at 15:37 (308 days old) by IowaBear (Cedar Rapids, IA)        

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Phil - enjoyed seeing those photos.


I grew up with the rectangular gold Honeywell, #5 in your photo set.  It was in use from the time my family bought the home in 1970 to when the furnace was replaced in mid-2000s.  I think the furnace was nearly 50 years old when it was replaced but I'm not 100% sure.


Do you know year were those made?

Post# 974062 , Reply# 16   12/16/2017 at 16:10 (308 days old) by fan-of-fans (Florida)        

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Those rectangular Honeywells in reply 12 first picture look a lot like the one that was in this house, except it had a circular temperature gauge instead of in a line.

On the digital round thermostat, does the light stay on if you press the light button, or does it go off after a period of time?

Post# 974079 , Reply# 17   12/16/2017 at 17:14 (308 days old) by Moparwash (Pittsburgh,PA -Next Wash-In...June 2019!)        

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The light goes out after about 5 seconds

Post# 974088 , Reply# 18   12/16/2017 at 18:04 (308 days old) by GusHerb (Chicago/NWI)        

You would be describing the T872, the predecessor to the T874's you see in my other photos. The predecessor to the T872 is the T870 pictured in reply #11

The T870 was made in the 1960s, followed by the T872 in the 70s, and the T874 in the 80s til around 2006 give or take a year. The most noteworthy difference between the T872 and T874 was that the heat and cool lever were together in the T872 and separate in the T874. The T874 was Honeywells top of the line non programmable mechanical thermostat, mainly used in commercial settings where multistage equipment was used, requiring a thermostat that could control multiple stages of heating/cooling. It was just about the most accurate mechanical thermostat ever produced as well.

The particular T872 in my collection was made the 24th week of 1977.

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Post# 974117 , Reply# 19   12/16/2017 at 20:44 (308 days old) by GusHerb (Chicago/NWI)        

Two of my electromechanical programmable thermostats shown here, and a few of my oldest ones as well. The Carrier was the one that controlled my grandmas 1960 Carrier furnace, I imagine it came in the box with the furnace.

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Post# 974339 , Reply# 20   12/17/2017 at 20:42 (307 days old) by cuffs054 (MONTICELLO, GA)        

GusHerb, the unit in pic 6 far left looks like the one on my Aunts HVAC unit. Can you help me understand how it controlled both function with no other controls?

Post# 974347 , Reply# 21   12/17/2017 at 21:46 (307 days old) by GusHerb (Chicago/NWI)        

The thermostat would've had three wires and been a heat/cool model. The mode selection would've been controlled elsewhere. These were uncommon but did exist, the most recent example is a Honeywell zone system from the 80s-90s called TrolATemp where a "master" thermostat controlled the system mode and the others were called "slave" thermostats. The slaves had three wires run to them and could do heat or cool.

The thermostat in the top right is another like the type you describe, except it is heat only, just like the one before that you pointed out.

The other Honeywells are T86's, the low temp one is an early T87. Two of the T86's were the original smaller dial design, one is for electric heat only, and the other has a positive off switch. Those are the only two smaller dial ones I have.

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Post# 974350 , Reply# 22   12/17/2017 at 22:22 (307 days old) by diesirae7 (Central Illinois)        

collection you have! I've saved a few, there is a heating supply store here that still has new ones in stock, if you are looking for a certain one I can see if they have it. They also have lots of vintage NOS plumbing, like sinks and toilets still new in the box from the 1970s.

Post# 974353 , Reply# 23   12/17/2017 at 22:42 (307 days old) by GusHerb (Chicago/NWI)        

Wow! Sounds like I need to make a trip!

Post# 974450 , Reply# 24   12/18/2017 at 12:15 (307 days old) by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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This thread came at an opportune time as I just got three used round, mechanical, heat only Honeywell thermostats that I installed and have a few questions I hope someone here might answer.

The one Im having most trouble with is a T87F2873. It has provision for three wire hookup. Base plate states Red to R, White to Y and Blue to W. The system is hot water radiator and uses only two wires. Only way thermostat works is hooking wires to R and Y but it operates backwards. If I turn the set temp lower than the room temp it turns circulator on. If I turn the set temp higher than the room temp it turns circulator off. I knew it wouldn’t make a difference but I reversed the wires and it operated the same.

The other two I installed are not the exact same model as above (I don’t have the model number of them while I write this) and seem to be working okay but there are a couple things Ive noticed with them. Number one will allow the room temp to drop at least three degrees below the set temp and not call for heat. Just how much its allowing the room temp to drop before turning the circulator on Im not sure. How many degrees is acceptable? Should it be calling for heat when the room temp drops exactly to the set temp?

Number two consistently shows a room temp 6-8 degrees above the set temp. I realize that after being satisfied and turning the circulator off the room temp will continue to rise some but this is not the case. Im finding the higher room temps with the baseboard cold to the touch. So it seems the thermostat is keeping the room temp higher than what its set for.

What is the adjustment made with the copper colored pointer at the 5 o’clock position? The scale below the pointer has numbers 1.2, .8, .6, .5, .4, .3, .2, .15, .12, .10. At the right end of the scale is the word LONGER with an arrow pointing towards the left. For some reason the pointer on the T87F2873 will not move the full range of the scale like it does on the other two.

Thanks for any info anyone here might be able to give me.

Post# 974473 , Reply# 25   12/18/2017 at 15:53 (306 days old) by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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Okay. Did some checking online and looks like thermostat should be hooked to R and W for heat only. Im sure I tried that but will try again and see what I get. As far as adjustment scale at 5 o'clock position I see that is to be set on the number that corresponds to the current rating of the primary control of the system. Something must be jammed or broken in thermostat that's not allowing the pointer to be moved full length of the scale.

Post# 974508 , Reply# 26   12/18/2017 at 18:33 (306 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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Ken, if your baseplate has no switch for heat/cool, you want the wires to be connected to the two lower left terminals of the baseplate, the upper right terminal is for cooling. If for some reason, the thermostat doesn't work with these terminals connected, there must be a problem with it.

As for the anticipator, from what range can you adjust it? This model should be adjustable from 0.1 to 1.2 according to this:

As for your thermostats keeping the room too cool or too hot, first, verify that the red pointer shows the actual room temperature accurately (with at least another thermometer as a reference next to it). If it does, then the angle of the baseplate might have to be adjusted a bit so the mercury switch trips at the correct temperature (that might cause the thermostat not to be perfectly level but if it's more accurate like that, that's better!). And you have to make sure that the anticipator works and that it's set correctly so the system cycles on and off the appropriate time to maintain the room temperature. On my system, they should be set at 0.4 but I set them at slightly shorter settings around 0.35. The temperature is constant and follows the pointer setting on my old thermostats, at 0.4, the cycles are a bit too long and they'll still call for heat for a long time and the room temp would rise a bit above the set temperature.

On most of my old thermostats, I had to adjust the thermometers so the pointer shows the correct room temperature and I didn't install them perfectly level to compensate for wear(?) or incorrect adjustment of the bi-metal. I had a few with anticipators that either didn't set low enough or didn't seem to work at all but most worked just fine.

Post# 974525 , Reply# 27   12/18/2017 at 20:00 (306 days old) by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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Thanks for the info. The two left terminals are R and W. I will try them and see what I get. The pointer on the anticipator has very little travel. Only from .275 (the line right of .3) to half way between .2 and .15.

I know the anticipator isn't set correctly on the other two. I will do that and then see how they act.

Post# 974538 , Reply# 28   12/18/2017 at 23:07 (306 days old) by diesirae7 (Central Illinois)        
Heat anticipator

That is actually a mini heater in the thermostat, once a call for heat it slowly warms to shut the thermostat off before the room reaches temperature, the furnace will continue to blow out heat after its off and reach the temperature the thermostat is set at. Those numbers on the slide are milliamps, it must be set to the milliamp draw of the gas valve, which would require a milliamp meter installed at the thermostat to see what the amp draw of your gas valve is, sometimes the gas valve will have it printed on the body, one thing you can look for if you don't have a milliamp meter. Even new digital thermostats have this option, in a series of numbers called differential or something like that. Also its very important to level the sub-base of the mercury thermostats for them to work properly.
This post made me check my old thermostat drawer in the shop, looks like I have about 4 Honeywell Rounds, I've always saved them after replacing thermostats for people. I have a really neat Lennox brushed aluminum rectangle thermostat from the 50s in a box somewhere, I'll have to try and find it.

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Post# 974549 , Reply# 29   12/19/2017 at 00:33 (306 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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I assume the thermostats have to be set to the current draw of the gas valve (in amps) on single zone systems that don’t use switching relays? My system uses 3 RA832A switching relays and they apparently require the thermostats to be set at 0.4 amps. At least, that’s what I understand from the first picture below.

I also took a few pics showing different thermostats in a 1965 Honeywell Tradeline catalog and a picture of a few more thermostats I have.

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Post# 974555 , Reply# 30   12/19/2017 at 01:07 (306 days old) by diesirae7 (Central Illinois)        

correct, in using the switching relays, one would need to set it at what the manufacturer recommends. What make are your zone valves? I've had to replace two of them in a three zone system I service in a large two story home built in 1904, they are Taco brand, they complained of no heat in certain areas of the home, found two bad power heads, they failed in the closed position. This is a hot water system as well, I do service two residential steam boilers, rare these days but very neat to work on, and very HOT heat indeed!

Post# 974558 , Reply# 31   12/19/2017 at 01:30 (306 days old) by GusHerb (Chicago/NWI)        

Phil, I'm gonna be studying those catalog pages for awhile, that looks awesome!

To go a bit deeper on heat anticipation, here is an article about it:
To match the heat anticipator to the amp draw will give about 6 CPH which is good for older lower efficiency forced air systems. I personally like to go about 3 CPH for forced air, and for hot water anywhere from 1-3 CPH. So to get 3 CPH on a heat anticipator you multiply the measured amp draw by 1.2. To achieve 1 CPH you set the anticipator to its max setting of 1.2 amps.

I would use an amp meter to check amp draw vs going off of the zone valve/gas valve as the real draw can differ from the nameplate. I would also wait til the system has been functioning for a few minutes. For example, on my Trane's, I don't achieve full amp draw until the gas valve opens. They also both draw .7 amps which differs from their recommendation of setting to .4 amps. To get the 3 CPH I want I would need to set the anticipator to .84 in that case.

Post# 974559 , Reply# 32   12/19/2017 at 01:45 (306 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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There are no zone valves in my heating system, I have two old Taco Perfecta 152 circulators (the one for the garage is a newer and smaller 007).

The 152 circulators are early wet rotor circulators from the late 1950s or early 1960s, they still have a removable back cover and there's also a bleeding screw on this cover. The model 195 that followed still had a bleeding screw but no cover at the back.

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Post# 974560 , Reply# 33   12/19/2017 at 01:51 (306 days old) by diesirae7 (Central Illinois)        
Very nice!

Always nice to see a clean boiler room! There should be a Taco air scoop in a horizontal run out of the boiler to catch air and a self venting brass valve on it. Also a good idea to open the bleeders on the radiators once a season to make sure there is no air in the system.

Post# 974561 , Reply# 34   12/19/2017 at 02:19 (306 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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Jonathan, I have some Honeywell T-832A round thermostats that have weird anticipators, away from the bi-metal coil. I don't quite understand how they work!

I partially dismantle one to fix the setback timer mechanism and I took pictures of it while parts were removed...

The pictures show two different thermostat, both were new in box. The first one (T832A 1000 in the 3 first pictures) doesn't have a on/off switch and it's anticipator can't be set lower than 0.4 amps. I tried it briefly and my heating system would stop much too late with the anticipator set at 0.4 amps so I replaced it with a regular thermostat and I didn't bother trying the other one once I fixed it's mechanical timer. That one (T832A-1083 in pictures 4-5) has an anticipator that can be set to 0.1 amps. They both have wires that run from the anticipator to the bi-metal coil.

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Post# 974562 , Reply# 35   12/19/2017 at 02:37 (306 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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I just replaced the 4 Vent-O-Mist valves this week as some were corroded and occasionally leaking and I didn't trust leaving them open, I added a 9AS automatic shortstop to each.

Pictures 1 to 6 show how it was before and 7 to 11 show the new valves. I don't have a Taco air scoop but there's an American air purger that I guess is similar on the picture 11.

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Post# 974603 , Reply# 36   12/19/2017 at 11:02 (306 days old) by GusHerb (Chicago/NWI)        

Those T832A's are fascinating thermostats, looking through those catalog pages I see so many redundant items it would make a bean counter these days cringe. Yet these companies back then seemed to have no issue making a bunch of redundant or semi redundant products. Looking at old Kohler and American Standard catalogs I'd see the same.

I would imagine they're relying on the conductivity of the metal in that thermostat to transfer heat to the bimetal coil. Like the way a cooling anticipator in the T87 works, which is just a resistor in the subbase with a contact that contacts the shaft of the bimetal coil in turn heating it up when the system is in cool mode but not calling for cooling. That leads me to something I noticed when I was trying to use a T87 for cooling, if the room was within a couple degrees of setpoint and I turned the thermostat to cool for the first time in awhile I'd have to wait for that resistor to warm up in order to get the A/C to come on by itself. While the T87, when leveled and anticipator adjusted correctly did a great job with heating, I found it lousy with cooling. It was very slow to react to load changes as the day carried on and sun beat down on the house, it would just let the room temperature climb while not really cycling any longer than at night when it would overcool by a degree or two.

Post# 974604 , Reply# 37   12/19/2017 at 11:06 (306 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

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I meant Maid-O-Mist in my previous post!

As for the heat anticipator, I'm wondering how it works in this T-832A thermostat (which is heat-only) but it certainly didn't work too well in the one I tried! The anticipator not only is located far away at the top of the thermostat, it's insulated from the timer mechanism (in the metal housing) which doesn't even extend below the bi-metal coil. I guess the amount of heat from this that gets to the coil is very small! And since it's wired to the coil, I'm wondering if there's some resistive material that might generate heat on the bi-metal coil itself?

I should try the other one I got with the anticipator that can be set at a lower (shorter) setting but that means changing the mounting plate again as those thermostats are much larger than the regular T86/T87 and they use a different mounting plate.

This post was last edited 12/19/2017 at 17:22
Post# 974606 , Reply# 38   12/19/2017 at 11:27 (306 days old) by Maytagbear (N.E. Ohio)        

the heat only Roundie at my previous apartment !!!!! Do not miss the landlord, or the unreliable furnace, but at least the thermostat and I were on good terms!

This place has an electronic programmable by a company I have never encountered before, "PRO." The office manager made a copy of the instructions, but I still do not understand the blasted thing!! I have read the instructions more than once.....


Post# 974607 , Reply# 39   12/19/2017 at 11:31 (306 days old) by GusHerb (Chicago/NWI)        
Pro1 IAQ?

I tried their T701 single stage non programmable. I must've gotten a dud because set to 70 it let the house get to 66 before turning the heat on, then would let it get up to 74 or so before shutting it off. That was the first thermostat I ever got rid of...
I still have a T755S sitting in my drawer that seemed ok though.
The casings seem sturdy but I'm skeptical about the electronics.

Upon testing a few years ago I found many issues with accuracy among various models.
The only two brands that really are acceptable are Emerson and Honeywell, and even then different Emerson models vary temperature readings by a few degrees. I honestly don't know how any variation is considered acceptable considering that they've made some models read inaccurately for years.

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This post was last edited 12/19/2017 at 20:39
Post# 974609 , Reply# 40   12/19/2017 at 11:40 (306 days old) by Maytagbear (N.E. Ohio)        
That's IT

Oh, how I dislike it!!!

Thank you, GusHerb.


Post# 974678 , Reply# 41   12/19/2017 at 22:46 (305 days old) by GusHerb (Chicago/NWI)        

Picked up the new Emerson 80 series thermostat and a Honeywell T4. The Honeywell is shockingly complex for a $40 thermostat, many features for what it is and many installation options. The Emerson has a surprisingly high contrast display, brighter backlight and built in level. They both have quieter relays than older models.

Gonna see how accurately they read temperature...

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Post# 974680 , Reply# 42   12/19/2017 at 22:50 (305 days old) by diesirae7 (Central Illinois)        

Digital has come a long way for sure...

Post# 974697 , Reply# 43   12/20/2017 at 01:31 (305 days old) by GusHerb (Chicago/NWI)        

Preliminary results look good.

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Post# 975137 , Reply# 44   12/23/2017 at 10:02 (302 days old) by TheSpiritOf76 (wichita kansas, Historic Midtowne.)        
I have this....

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Honeywell that has been in my house since the 40's. Its heat only (some of you may remember being introduced to Big Bertha). I love the look of it, I really don't think I would have another.

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Post# 975206 , Reply# 45   12/23/2017 at 18:16 (301 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
We have four Emerson Sensi thermostats at work.  They work pretty nicely.  Support two-stage cool and heat.  The WiFi app allows access to auto heat/cool switching which the buttons on the 'stat itself doesn't.  The only way to program a schedule is via the app.  The app has a keylock function which makes the buttons on the base non-responsive as a security measure.  A new feature added recently is geofencing, which triggers heating or cooling setback/recovery when the homeowner is +/- 3 miles distance from homebase (although it's useless for a business situation).  I'm the only employee who has the app so nobody else has control of the systems.

Dislikes:  Neither the base unit nor the remote app has indication of 1st/2nd stage operation.  They updated the WiFi app recently to force arrangement of the programmed days into alphabetic order instead of as entered, which throws me off kilter because I want them in order of F-Sa-Su-M-Tu-Th which is logical for the business week.  It also now combines days that are the same.  I need them all to remain separate because a couple/few given days may be the same this week but different next week and it's an ass-pain to re-separate them when necessary.  The work-around is to program extra temp points (even if it doesn't involve a change) so all the days are different.  Would be nice if fan on or auto could be programmed on the schedules.

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Post# 975372 , Reply# 46   12/24/2017 at 21:36 (300 days old) by Mayguy (Minnesota)        

The T87 were good. My parents has one, but over time, it had too wide of a swing, so I repalced it with another one, some off brand digtial in the 80's, and did ok till mid 90's when new Trane was installed.

I have the Honeywell VisionPro IAQ, that controls my Trane XV90 two stage, humidifier, a/c, fresh air damper, and blower speed for dehumid. Been super pleased with that for the last 14 years.

I do the set back at night and when we are away in the day time.. For our Minnesota winter, I only pay a $54 a month budget plan gas bill. I have all gas appliances on the house w/ 3 of us.

Post# 975624 , Reply# 47   12/26/2017 at 18:52 (298 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture
Gas must be really cheap in Minnesota! I pay $262/month (OK that's just Canadian dollars!) on a budget plan (and my water heaters, cooking appliances and dryers are all electric).

Apparently, gas is more expensive here in Quebec than elsewhere in the States or the in rest of Canada. But gas is still supposed to be cheaper for heating than our relatively cheap electricity (85% of households here use electricity for heating vs 3% for natural gas mainly because it's not widely distributed in Quebec). I don't have a very efficient boiler (82%) so there shouldn't be a big difference between gas and electricity in my case.

How much gas do you use during a year?
I used about 3500 cubic meters (or 123601 cu-ft) of gas this year (heating from October 15th to May 15th) to keep the temperature to an average of 65-68° (and I keep my garage at the minimum setting on the thermostat which is 50°).

Post# 975631 , Reply# 48   12/26/2017 at 20:46 (298 days old) by wayupnorth (On a lake between Bangor and Bar Harbor)        

wayupnorth's profile picture
Where I am its only propane and pay thru the nose for it. 4 bucks a gallon to top off my tank which runs 2 gas heaters, used mostly in spring or fall and a gas stove, because I dont use enough gas to get a discount. No natural gas here. I have an oil boiler for heat and hot water with the original Honeywell thermostats set at 55 down and 65 up, never touched and 2 330 gallon oil tanks that last me a full year. Last year it took 570 gallons and I bet this heating season will go up.

Post# 975682 , Reply# 49   12/27/2017 at 05:51 (298 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, the Netherlands)        

foraloysius's profile picture
Here's a Dutch ad from 1976 with a semi-automatic Honeywell. It had two temperature options and with the round dial you chose the hours you wanted the lower temperature. IIRC there was a programmable version too.

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Post# 975755 , Reply# 50   12/27/2017 at 13:55 (298 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture
This Semi-Automatic Chronotherm is the equivalent of my older Semi-Automatic T-832A thermostats. It has a mechanical 12 hour setback timer for systems that didn't have the required extra wiring to power the electric clock version.

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Post# 977693 , Reply# 51   1/9/2018 at 21:40 (284 days old) by Northwesty (Renton, WA)        
I think

Henry Dreyfuss was the designer of that Honeywell...

Post# 977696 , Reply# 52   1/9/2018 at 22:31 (284 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture
Henry Dreyfuss designed a few things for Honeywell including the round thermostat.

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Post# 977702 , Reply# 53   1/9/2018 at 23:18 (284 days old) by PhilR (Quebec Canada)        

philr's profile picture
One of the thermostats I have at home is the early T86 model like the one pictured on the box in my previous post (for the current electronic round thermostats), I also have Tap-Lite switches that were also designed by Dreyfuss, it's shown on their boxes.

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Post# 977772 , Reply# 54   1/10/2018 at 16:14 (283 days old) by Supersuds (Knoxville, Tenn.)        

supersuds's profile picture
I've never seen a Taplite, but they look neat!

Post# 977784 , Reply# 55   1/10/2018 at 18:14 (283 days old) by CircleW (NE Cincinnati OH area)        

Henry Dreyfuss' most well known designs are the Western Electric 302 & 500 series telephones.

My house was built in 1952, and I always thought the Honeywell round thermostat was original to it, but above it says it was introduced in '53. Perhaps the original owners changed it out, or maybe my parents did when I was very young (we moved there right after I turned 2). A newer model with sub-base was installed when we got central air in '74.

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