Thread Number: 75765  /  Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Removing a Neptune bearing the hard way
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Post# 995983   6/2/2018 at 13:35 by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

AFTER countless hours reading through Neptune related threads on this forum, I decided to go ahead and add a Neptune to the collection. I found a MAH4000 and MDE4000 for sale on Kijiji. The owner disclosed the bearings were bad in the machine hence the replacement. I watched a few YouTube videos of how people have done this, with and without a bearing puller. And in one video, the Neptunes rear bearing catastrophically failed to the point where the basket was no longer true, and was sagging. I thought "Gee, I sure hope that wont be my Neptune!"


Gee, it sure did.


So what do you do if the bearing puller wont, well cant, pull bearings?

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This post was last edited 06/02/2018 at 19:11

Post# 995985 , Reply# 1   6/2/2018 at 13:40 by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

The rear pulley didnt do too much damage to the rear of the outer tub so that was a win. So, knowing the rear bearing had been destroyed, how would I pull it, if all thats left is the outer race?


First things first we must remove the basket. This wont come out correctly as its no longer aligned with the front bearing if its sagging, so I supported the bottom of the tub with two sanding blocks and banged it out nicely. If you look closely in the first picture, you may be able to see the bearing ball cage on the bottom of the frame. 

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Post# 995986 , Reply# 2   6/2/2018 at 13:44 by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

In the first picture you can see the rear bearing. I found parts of it, such as the inner race and balls, all over the frame. This is our first challenge. In order to get the puller on the front bearing, we would have to cut the outer race out.


In the second picture you can see the front bearing with the seal still in place. This, was beyond a doubt, fused to the bearing holder. I tried hours of WD-40 soaking, hold time on the bearing puller in place with no avail. It, unfortunately, had to be banged out. Because the rear seal had gone on the inner bearing, and the inner race had so much play, a few slams with the cold chisel sent the inner race flying away.

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Post# 995987 , Reply# 3   6/2/2018 at 13:47 by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

The next step is to very carefully cut three straight slices on an angle on the outer races. Why angled? Whether youre coming from the front or back, you can chip away the race easier. Hit the race on a right angle on a section between the cut marks and you can chip away the race if its that stuck. Which the rear was.


Three slices because if you cold chisel or bang on the middle cut mark, you can split it right down the cut line and take most of the sections between the two outer cut lines with it.

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Post# 995988 , Reply# 4   6/2/2018 at 13:49 by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

Eventually this will work and the outer race will tap out nicely. All in all, this most invasive method took probably 10 minutes per bearing. After theyre out, the typical sand and wire wheel the bearing holders and rod out the drains is whats needed. You can then go about replacing the bearings as regular.

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Post# 995990 , Reply# 5   6/2/2018 at 13:54 by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

I bought two brand new SKF bearings from Motion Canada. They fit nicely, 6206 2RS and 6207 2RS.


Although this machine had the worst bearing mishap as I did have to silicone a bit of the rear outer tub, the machine has little mold and smelled just fine. I chalk it up to the fact the bleach dispenser cup has a white film on it, meaning the previous owner was not afraid of bleach. The control panel was also insanely clean. The only other thing I replaced was the wax motor, even though it was one of the black tip ones. The control board/R11 stuff is not burnt. And the motor has all phases functioning.


I love this machine already, cleans very very well, and the capacity is perfect. Having experience with front loaders before, this machine is sure no non-sense balancing. Glad to be apart of club Neptune.


Zero complaints.

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Post# 995995 , Reply# 6   6/2/2018 at 14:33 by IowaBear (Cedar Rapids, IA)        

iowabear's profile picture

Wow - congratulations on the repair and thank you for the detailed procedures and pictures.


I love my Neptune, it's an electronic control MAH6500.  12 years old, last year I needed to replace the motor control board and the main inlet water valve in the back, so far those are the only repairs.


I figured I would go back to a used DD one day, but maybe with all the knowledge people are sharing on this board I can keep it running for a lot longer.

Post# 996021 , Reply# 7   6/2/2018 at 18:29 by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

Thanks, Jim!


I hope you get to use your MAH6500 for a long time coming. Theyre such nice machines all around. And Im sure there is lot of people here willing to help if you need it!

Post# 996025 , Reply# 8   6/2/2018 at 19:03 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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all of mine are 5500 series, very little goes wrong with these outside of bearings/seals....

now those kits are so cheap, I have it down to just over an hour to complete, and I don't use a bearing puller....

Jim will just bring his machine to me for a rebuild, if not an exchange…lol

probably the only thing I miss is the Jet engine revving of the motor during the spin ramp up on the 3000 series....

Post# 996057 , Reply# 9   6/3/2018 at 06:33 by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

Do you just pound the bearings out, Martin?


I want to find a way to get it to do 1000rpm spin, that would be sweet.

Post# 996059 , Reply# 10   6/3/2018 at 07:36 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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yeah, just use a mallet and pound them then use the old bearing to pound the new bearing back in place...

the higher spin speeds are only available with the 6500 series and up...

Post# 996075 , Reply# 11   6/3/2018 at 09:43 by RP2813 (The Big Blue Bubble)        

rp2813's profile picture
This is excellent information!

I'm a Neptune convert after using the one that came with our new house. No nonsense is so right, and I love the whine as the tub finishes its final spin. All that's missing is the sound of 150 seat belts being unfastened.

Post# 996081 , Reply# 12   6/3/2018 at 10:37 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
FL Neptune Bearing replacement

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Hi Kevin, what type of water seal did you use on your rebuild, the orignal type was a very flawed face type lip seal.


Later MTs went to a more conventional lip type seal like everyone else in the world.


When we were at the orignal service training for the MAH3000s I took one look at the face type lip seal and told the MT reps that it would have very poor durability and guess what they changed it to a more durable conventional lip seal several years later.


I told MT the same thing when we did the training on the TL MT Amana-Tags, on this machine they used a proper lip seal  that rode on an aluminum hub instead of a more durable SS sleeve, and we all know how that worked out, tens of thousands of otherwise good washers thrown away in less than ten years, many times less that 5 years, LOL


When ever MT brought out a new appliance they were always riddled with design flaws that affected durability, to MTs credit they did try hard to redesign and fix problems but it always seemed to me they did not have very good engineers when someone like me could take one good look and spot the problems that were going to happen when they were put into use.


I could easily list about 30 problems I saw while working for MT that they later corrected once the appliances were out in the field.


John L.

Post# 996087 , Reply# 13   6/3/2018 at 12:40 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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that's the only thing, yet fortunate when you order new seals, both are included...

you just have to match what was on your machine, and use that same type again....

even with sealed bearings, I open them up and add more grease....

plus clean all areas real good, and apply grease on all surfaces and shaft...

music to ones ear when all is done, and it spins smooth and quiet...

Post# 996089 , Reply# 14   6/3/2018 at 13:12 by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

Hey John,


Unfortunately the lip seal revision wont/wouldnt fit. I thought about it but on the 4000s, and probably the 3000s too, there is a 1/4 inch grove milled in to the spiders shaft where the forward half of the lip seal sits,  thats not there on the newer machines like the 5500, 6500, and 7500 and the newer style seal wont seat properly.


Martin! I was wondering if a friend of mine may be able to do some programming on the circuit board to change it to 1000rpm. Hes big in to electronic repair. If he can I for sure will post a guide.

Post# 996149 , Reply# 15   6/4/2018 at 09:16 by swestoyz (Cedar Falls, Iowa)        

swestoyz's profile picture
Great job on bringing back to life a very nice looking Neptune set! I personally haven't done a bearing job (yet) as both my previous 3000 and current 7500 had good bearings from the start, but I do appreciate the nitty gritty photos and talking points.

My wife had used a POS early 2000's GE top loader in her apartment for several years before we dated. Switching to Neptune after she moved in was certainly was a step-up - she LOVES it!

While I love the 7500 the high spin speed really isn't needed. It doesn't hit 1000 RPM until the last two minutes of the final spin and often times if the load isn't balanced just right it performs and award-winning jig on the laundry room floor!


(the photo below isn't showcasing the Maytag, but it's the only one I have readily on hand)

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Post# 996212 , Reply# 16   6/4/2018 at 21:11 by speedqueen (Harrison Twp, Michigan)        

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Ben, what year is the RCA Whirlpool in the picture?

Post# 996218 , Reply# 17   6/4/2018 at 22:07 by peteski50 (New York)        

peteski50's profile picture
That is one beautiful whirlpool - I think it is a 1961

Post# 996222 , Reply# 18   6/4/2018 at 22:29 by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

Thanks Ben!


Yes, that RCA Whirlpool is beautiful. Do you have a close up? Money shot?

Post# 996285 , Reply# 19   6/5/2018 at 13:48 by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

Also, whats the Maytag Neptune etiquette? Door open, or door closed when its not needed?

Post# 996291 , Reply# 20   6/5/2018 at 14:38 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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depends on your habits.....

I never leave the door open, nor the dispenser lid....

note: Neptunes don't have a 'clean washer' cycle, never had a reason to need one...

occasionally you will want to rinse out the dispenser tray, and a nice polish and buff keeps them looking like new...

Post# 996300 , Reply# 21   6/5/2018 at 17:24 by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

I always left the door open on my GE FL and used the clean washer cycle as per the manuals instructions. when I lived in Calgary. It was a property I was renting.


But there is nothing in the MAH4000s manual about leaving the door open or clean cycles, just to like you said, clean the dispenser cups. I personally dont think you need one if youre using detergent and bleach properly.

Post# 996313 , Reply# 22   6/5/2018 at 19:36 by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
always keep Cold washes to a minimum....use Hot or Warm, and purge your lines first

this will also help keep your dryer drum from turning blue...that has always been a big clue to the washing habits of its owner...

Good Luck with your new toy...

Post# 996316 , Reply# 23   6/5/2018 at 20:26 by potatochips (Nova Scotia)        

Funny you should mention the blue hue, its non existent in this dryer.


Thanks for your help, Martin.

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