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Thread Number: 76381
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
My New Whirlpool |
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| Post# 1002222 8/1/2018 at 23:42 (2,094 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
I know its not a rare find, but I'm excited to begin work on my new acquisition! A friend gave it to me today. It's been in her garage for years after she inherited it from her Grandmother. Beyond installing a new pump on a Whirlpool direct drive, I've not done much in the way of washer repairs. But I wanted to begin with a model that has greater potential for finding parts.
It fills and agitates but it doesn't spin, so I'll need to investigate that. I plan to disassemble it at least down to removing the agitator and wash baskets in order to give it a thorough cleaning. Then, I'll see what kind of other issues that need to be addressed, including cosmetic stuff. I'm guessing this model is circa the early to mid 1980s. | ||
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| Post# 1002225 , Reply# 1 8/1/2018 at 23:48 (2,094 days old) by Stricklybojack (South Hams Devon UK) | ||
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Post# 1002237 , Reply# 3 8/2/2018 at 06:30 (2,093 days old) by DADoES  (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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 The lid switch may be the fault if the motor does not run for drain or spin. It's not the problem if the motor does run but there's no spin. Give us the model and serial numbers to confirm the age. The model number is coded for the year of market introduction. The serial number is coded for the year and week of manufacture. | ||
| Post# 1002256 , Reply# 4 8/2/2018 at 10:06 (2,093 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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| Post# 1002262 , Reply# 5 8/2/2018 at 10:23 (2,093 days old) by IowaBear (Cedar Rapids, IA) | ||
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Post# 1002270 , Reply# 6 8/2/2018 at 10:56 (2,093 days old) by Washerlover (The Big Island, Hawai’i) |
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My ex-wife and I had the exact same model (and matching dryer) we bought brand new the year we were married: 1986. I was so surprised with the direct drive vs belt-drive. I had been in the “appliance closet” (along with being in the gay closet!) for a couple years and didn’t know about the change-over to direct drive. Still a pretty good washer, nonetheless.
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| Post# 1002286 , Reply# 7 8/2/2018 at 12:53 (2,093 days old) by Dustin92 (Jackson, MI) | ||
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If the motor runs, and it agitates and drains but won't spin or barely spins, you most likely have a bad clutch. Inexpensive part and super easy repair (even though you do have to pull the transmission) that took me less than half an hour the first time. Definitely worth fixing. | ||
| Post# 1002344 , Reply# 8 8/2/2018 at 20:10 (2,093 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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I finally had a chance to put it through its paces this evening and there is absolutely nothing wrong with it! I ran it through every cycle and it operates as it should. So I don't know exactly why she thought it wouldn't spin. However, it sat in a storage building for 20 years, following her grandmother's death. But it fired right up. I can only run cold water from a garden hose.
The model number is LA5500TWO. The serial number is C91227286.
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| Post# 1002345 , Reply# 9 8/2/2018 at 20:13 (2,093 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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I haven't seen any rust on the cabinet at all, even under the lid. Unfortunately, things were piled on it and the top has some deep scratches and discoloration. So I plan to remove the cabinet, sand and prime it, and then repaint it with some Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy. It should look virtually brand new after that!
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| Post# 1002346 , Reply# 10 8/2/2018 at 20:18 (2,093 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Once I get it repainted, I think I'll move it into the house and use it for a month or so. The wash basket is pretty small but with no kids at home, it will be just fine! I've never seen an agitator base quite like this one. I'm wondering if a fabric softener dispenser can be added.
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| Post# 1002347 , Reply# 11 8/2/2018 at 20:23 (2,093 days old) by IowaBear (Cedar Rapids, IA) | ||
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| Post# 1002348 , Reply# 12 8/2/2018 at 20:27 (2,093 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Post# 1002352 , Reply# 13 8/2/2018 at 21:23 (2,093 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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EurekaStar: One of the things that I really like about this washer is that it begins to spin as soon as the wash basket starts draining as well.It shouldn't do that. The motor should pause for a few seconds after the wash (and rinse) agitation, then it restarts and should drain without spinning for 2 mins, the motor pauses again and restarts for spin. Spinning immediately with water in the tub indicates the neutral drain components in the transmission are worn. There's a low-cost repair kit (WP part number 388253) available, requires pulling and opening the transmission to swap the parts. The non-spin situation may be erratic and related to this problem. LA5500TW0 ... maybe LA5500XTW0? W = 1990 model year. C91227286 12th week of 1989. | ||
| Post# 1002353 , Reply# 14 8/2/2018 at 21:26 (2,093 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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| Post# 1002355 , Reply# 15 8/2/2018 at 21:31 (2,093 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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@ DadoES | ||
| Post# 1002356 , Reply# 16 8/2/2018 at 21:32 (2,093 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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@ DadoES | ||
| Post# 1002358 , Reply# 17 8/2/2018 at 21:59 (2,093 days old) by IowaBear (Cedar Rapids, IA) | ||
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HD video that shows the repair. Doesn't look too bad, but a lot more work than just swapping the transmission.
So are the options are to order the neutral drain kit for $30 or just replace the transmission for $150?
The DD that came with my house had this problem (went right to spin without drain period) and it operated for some time that way. (Only doing laundry for two.) I think eventually (after 3 years) it got to the point where occasionally it would stall and wouldn't spin and opening and closing the lid (or using the timer) would "restart" it and it would spin and continue the cycle. I can't remember exactly, it's been quite a while ago. CLICK HERE TO GO TO IowaBear's LINK | ||
| Post# 1002363 , Reply# 18 8/2/2018 at 22:58 (2,093 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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@ IowaBear
Thank you! I love Youtube! It looks like a straightforward repair. I found another video that shows how to remove the transmission. Once everything is out, it makes sense to install a new motor coupler just to be safe. Although, the clutch assembly looks like a pretty solid part and should hopefully be good.
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Post# 1002389 , Reply# 19 8/3/2018 at 10:03 (2,092 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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To clarify about neutral drain (as you may know) ... the transmission must operate in agitate mode (~1 minute should normally be enough, longer may be needed when the parts get worn or in cold ambient temperatures if the transmission oil is thickened) before a drain period occurs to preset the neutral drain components. It won't neutral drain if the timer is set directly to the drain period after a cycle (or spin) has ended (without agitation occurring first). There's really no need to change the motor coupler unless it's broken, cracked, loose on the motor or transmission shaft, or otherwise obviously deteriorated in some way. However, you may want to change it anyway if the machine still has the old-style coupler that's all plastic (without metal inserts). The newer style fits tighter, requires more "pounding" to get properly seated (must be flush with the ends of the shafts). Be sure to pound directly on the metal insert, not on the plastic part (I use a hex socket of appropriate size). | ||
| Post# 1002398 , Reply# 20 8/3/2018 at 10:42 (2,092 days old) by IowaBear (Cedar Rapids, IA) | ||
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When the neutral drain components start to wear, exactly what is happening? I cannot remember if my machine always failed the neutral drain or just most of the time.
How bad is it when the neutral drain doesn't work consistently? Obviously it puts a lot of stress on the rest of the machine but mine kept on chugging away until I replaced it (and I did full loads most of the time.)
I've linked to a video that shows the neutral drain. I like this guys videos. Not thrilled about the computer generated speech but they are good otherwise. CLICK HERE TO GO TO IowaBear's LINK | ||
| Post# 1002429 , Reply# 21 8/3/2018 at 14:47 (2,092 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Post# 1002432 , Reply# 22 8/3/2018 at 15:11 (2,092 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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I did that repair on one a few weeks ago. I also changed the agitator shaft so more disassembly was involved and it was a bit messy. Changing the oil and cleaning out the residue may not be necessary for just the neutral drain components but still is a good idea. 90-weight gear oil can be had at an auto supply. | ||
| Post# 1002516 , Reply# 23 8/4/2018 at 12:31 (2,091 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Agitator Dogs | ||
| Post# 1002519 , Reply# 24 8/4/2018 at 12:57 (2,091 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Post# 1002534 , Reply# 25 8/4/2018 at 14:13 (2,091 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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| Post# 1002557 , Reply# 26 8/4/2018 at 16:25 (2,091 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Painting Question
Unfortunately, the porcelain top has a few deep scratches, along with some minor ones. Would it be best to sand those out and spray the surface will Rustoleum Appliance Epoxy or to try and touch them up? I've never painted a porcelain surface before. I'm assuming the entire surface would need a light sanding to provide a good surface for the epoxy to adhere to. It is in such good condition otherwise and I'd really like to make it look as close to new as possible.
(That's what happens from years of sitting in a garage with other stuff being stacked on it!) Thanks in advance for any thoughts and advice! | ||
| Post# 1002865 , Reply# 27 8/7/2018 at 19:19 (2,088 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Lint Filter?
I finally got the wash basket off this evening with a new spanner wrench and a little coaxing. I was surprised to find this on the bottom of the basket. A couple of questions: 1) What is it? The lint filter? 2) Is it designed to come off? I don't see it on any parts diagrams.
I'm concerned that it might be quite brittle with age. The only thing that I can think to do is treat it with CLR and soak it in hot water. I see some rust on the bottom of the basket but I'm sure there's more under this filter. Therefore, I want to remove it in order to take care of the rust. Thanks for any answers and help!
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| Post# 1002866 , Reply# 28 8/7/2018 at 19:27 (2,088 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Well, I see it on this parts diagram but it seems that another part (style) is being substituted. It looks like they just insert into the four holes beneath the agitator as a substitute for the filter on the bottom of the wash basket.
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Post# 1002874 , Reply# 29 8/7/2018 at 20:07 (2,088 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Lint filter, yes. There are holes in the base of the basket, little fins under the agitator help move water through the filter fingers, then the lint is supposed to flush off during spin extraction. It is removable but there were different designs through the years and some can be tricky. There may be a retaining wire/spring up inside the neck of the basket that keeps two (or four?) anchor tabs locked into holes in the basket neck. I had one saved from a refurbed Kenmore as an example but can't find it, so here's a parts diagram capture indicating the tabs. If it's of this type you may have to either press all four tabs at the same time from inside the basket while pulling on it from the bottom, or try to reach into the neck from the bottom to find and release the spring clip. One of the tabs broke off the one I had.
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Post# 1002875 , Reply# 30 8/7/2018 at 20:10 (2,088 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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| Post# 1002877 , Reply# 31 8/7/2018 at 20:13 (2,088 days old) by Stricklybojack (South Hams Devon UK) | ||
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There are four tabs that hold the filter to the wash basket; I broke one, three work just as well. Here is a link to my thread on cleaning up a DD machine including discussion of the filter. CLICK HERE TO GO TO Stricklybojack's LINK | ||
| Post# 1002896 , Reply# 32 8/7/2018 at 21:17 (2,088 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Thanks!
Thanks for all the info! I would not have known about the retaining! I did get the retaining ring off; however, when I started lifting the filter out, it broke into three pieces. It was pretty brittle. Fortunately, the rust is pretty minor and limited to a few of the drain holes at the bottom around the perimeter. I think I'll order a new set of those fancy new filter plugs!
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| Post# 1002899 , Reply# 33 8/7/2018 at 22:07 (2,088 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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@ Stricklybojack | ||
| Post# 1003237 , Reply# 34 8/10/2018 at 22:12 (2,085 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Progress!
This photo makes me look like a messy repair technician (which I am!), but progress is being made! All the filth on the floor came from inside the machine. Tomorrow, I'll install the new neutral drain kit in the transmission and touch up some rusty spots on the spin basket, washer frame, and cabinet. If I have time, I'll proceed to touching up the paint on the cabinet.
By the time it's all done, I think these are the things that will be done. 1) Thorough cleaning and paint restoration 2) Rust abatement inside cabinet, spin basket, and frame 3) Install new agitator dogs 4) Install new motor coupler 5) Install new clutch assembly 6) Install neutral drain kit in transmission 7) Install new drive block and spanner nut 8) Install new fabric soften dispenser I also purchased a new drain pump. However, the old pump is working just fine, with no signs of leaking. I also decided to change out the motor coupler and clutch assembly while I have it apart. Rust is pretty minimal throughout the washer. That's one of the benefits of living in a dry climate!
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| Post# 1003431 , Reply# 35 8/12/2018 at 16:55 (2,083 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Success!!!
I installed the neutral drain kit yesterday and got the transmission installed today. It works as it should. HOWEVER, when it shifts into spin, it makes a brief growling noise but when it gets up to full spin speed the noise quickly goes away. I wonder if it's something I did in the transmission or if jostled something else around in the re-installation. I REALLY don't want to take the transmission apart again!
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Post# 1003448 , Reply# 36 8/12/2018 at 21:04 (2,083 days old) by whirlykenmore78 (Prior Lake MN (GMT-0500 CDT.)) |
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They typically growl:
When doing neutral drain, this is normal. If you hear a rhythmic growl during the first increment after wash or rinse and it goes away after the motor stops/starts again to engage spin nothing is wrong. If there is another noise beyond this there may be a problem. Can you post a video to YT and post a link here so we can hear the noise?.
WK78 | ||
| Post# 1003458 , Reply# 37 8/12/2018 at 22:27 (2,083 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Thanks WK78 | ||
| Post# 1003568 , Reply# 38 8/13/2018 at 19:13 (2,082 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
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Video with sound
I uploaded a Youtube video of the washer shifting into spin. This is the Permanent Press Cycle. It first shifts into low speed spin, stops, then shifts into high speed spin. I didn't notice the noise until I installed the neutral drain kit. However, I suspect it's the clutch assembly.
CLICK HERE TO GO TO eurekastar's LINK | ||
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