Thread Number: 78130  /  Tag: Vintage Dryers
From Red Lion, PA. to Brooklyn, NY. A 1972 Maytag DE806
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Post# 1021541   1/17/2019 at 23:08 (1,921 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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A rebuilding of previous threads, "From the Cellar to the 19th Floor: The Maytag's New Home P1" and "1972 A806 and a DE806 Rescued. Part Two." The washer and dryer threads have been separated.  From Red Lion, PA. to Brooklyn, NY. A 1972 Maytag A806 and From Red Lion, PA. to Brooklyn, NY. A 1972 Maytag DE806 respectively. Once again, many thanks to our webmaster Robert for his assistance.





Post# 1021542 , Reply# 1   1/17/2019 at 23:12 (1,921 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Originally posted on 4/4/2018

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Formally "From the Cellar to the 19th Floor: The Maytag's New Home P1"

 

Finally, my dream set!

 

The Maytag's were in the basement of an old Victorian house in Red Lion, PA. The house had been closed up for decades and was dilapidated. The guy who had just bought it believes the machines had not been touched since the house was closed up. After a complete going through, these will ultimately become my daily drivers.

 

Original thread: A Maytag A-806 an a DE-806 Matched Set!

www.automaticwasher.org/c...


Post# 1021544 , Reply# 2   1/17/2019 at 23:15 (1,921 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Maytag A806 thread:

www.automaticwasher.org/c...


Post# 1021546 , Reply# 3   1/17/2019 at 23:34 (1,921 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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DE 1

DE 3

DE 4

DE 5

DE 6


Post# 1021589 , Reply# 4   1/18/2019 at 12:31 (1,920 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
EEEK!

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DE 7

DE 8

DE 9

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Post# 1021590 , Reply# 5   1/18/2019 at 12:34 (1,920 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

ultramatic's profile picture

 

 

DE 15

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Post# 1021591 , Reply# 6   1/18/2019 at 12:42 (1,920 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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DE 18

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 DE 30


Post# 1021593 , Reply# 7   1/18/2019 at 12:49 (1,920 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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DE 23

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Post# 1021594 , Reply# 8   1/18/2019 at 12:57 (1,920 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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DE 31

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Post# 1021595 , Reply# 9   1/18/2019 at 13:06 (1,920 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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DE 36

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Post# 1021596 , Reply# 10   1/18/2019 at 13:24 (1,920 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        
OH DAMN!

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I see the teardown & transformation has begun! I have full confidence in you Ultramatic/Louis, and I can't wait to see when you're all done with this dryer! You make the lil portables you've refurbished, look brand spanking new, I know this full size Maytag is going to turn out AMAZING!
:o)

On this side of the computer screen cheering for you...
;o)


Post# 1021609 , Reply# 11   1/18/2019 at 15:46 (1,920 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Hey thanks Christina! I actually finished the dryer sometime ago. I am now rebuilding the old thread because it was a real mess. That's why I am reposting these past images. Once I'm done reposting, I will give a complete update on the DE806. smile


Post# 1021612 , Reply# 12   1/18/2019 at 16:04 (1,920 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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DE 42

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DE 53

 


Post# 1021613 , Reply# 13   1/18/2019 at 16:16 (1,920 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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DE 54

DE 55

DE 56

DE 59

DE 58

 

Temporary 115V connection:

DE 61


Post# 1021614 , Reply# 14   1/18/2019 at 16:23 (1,920 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Voila!

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We have lift off.

 

DE Video


Post# 1021615 , Reply# 15   1/18/2019 at 16:31 (1,920 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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The DE806 has been working flawlessly for a few months now. It is still running on 115V for the time being. It takes about 2 cycles for clothes to be completely dry of course, but still it can run circles around my old Whirlpool convertible dryer. And that end of cycle bell! Loud! And I love it! I will be posting updated images soon with some obligatory evening shots. Most of all, I'd like to thank all those who gave me encouragement and advice for this undertaking!


Post# 1021630 , Reply# 16   1/18/2019 at 20:00 (1,920 days old) by hippiedoll ( arizona )        
oh wow!!

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See...
Now that looks nice!
:o)


Post# 1045467 , Reply# 17   9/20/2019 at 00:47 (1,676 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Something odd. When I originally started using the dryer, it usually would take a few cycles (Permanent Press or Regular) to get the clothes completely dry because it was running on 115V. It's still on 115V but now it does not go off until the clothes are completely dry.  I no longer have to reset the dryer very 12 minutes or so. Nothing has changed. Was/is there an issue with the moisture sensors?


Post# 1045488 , Reply# 18   9/20/2019 at 10:26 (1,676 days old) by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        

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Not entirely sure what it is, but when I first got my Maytag DG810 dryer that goes with my A810 Maytag washer, I had no direct gas hook up for it so I just decided to air dry a load of sheets, and believe it or not they were completely dry when I got them out. My DG810 uses a similar moisture sensor system like the HOH dryers but it just has the one sensor, and seems to work well with larger loads for some reason.

Post# 1045492 , Reply# 19   9/20/2019 at 11:50 (1,675 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

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>> I no longer have to reset the dryer very 12 minutes or so. Nothing has changed.
>> Was/is there an issue with the moisture sensors?

Sounds suspiciously like there had been a problem, which has now fixed itself.

As part of the electronic control diagnostics, Maytag's service literature states that the dryer should turn off in approximately 9-12 minutes with the yellow wire disconnected (ie: disconnecting the circuit of the slip ring & baffles).

So if your dryer was turning off in ~12 minutes each time, instead of when the clothes were dry, it sounds like you had an open circuit somewhere in the baffle circuit.

It's good that you're finally seeing how well the dryer can work, but if it were mine and a loose connection was suspected, I'd take both the top cover and the back panel off, and check that all of the wiring connectors are firmly seated, just to be safe! You might also inspect the brush on the slip ring.


Post# 1045495 , Reply# 20   9/20/2019 at 12:03 (1,675 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Thanks guys for the imput.

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I will indeed open up the cabinet to check for something loose.


Post# 1045677 , Reply# 21   9/22/2019 at 19:25 (1,673 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
DE806 Dryer

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Hi Louis, glad it is working properly now, I would leave it alone, it is likely that the sensor circuit brush and slip-ring was not making a good connection and broke-in after a lot of running time, you are not likely to find anything wrong by taking it apart, if it starts not working again then I would take a look.

 

John L.


Post# 1045690 , Reply# 22   9/22/2019 at 20:46 (1,673 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Thanks John.

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So far, so good.


Post# 1049646 , Reply# 23   11/1/2019 at 17:37 (1,633 days old) by juliegott (Red Hill, PA)        
DE 806

Hi Louis,

I was so glad to see that you and I share a dream- I acquired a matching set in Red Hill, PA. about a year ago. I was so lucky to find the pair a few blocks from my home off of Craig's list. They were in mint condition- not a speck of rust- I think-due to the fact of being located in an upstairs, first floor room, instead of a damp basement.
I recently had a flood and had to disassemble the A806 washer -and dry it out completely- the dryer was not wired yet, so I let that go for a month until I checked for water damage. I got it to run, but then smelled a burning material, which I believe was the front felt seal, since it came out in pieces with black scorch marks.
I put on a new seal (HAha-I used wooden clothepins to hold mine in place), 2 new belts-then put everything together. It ran, but drum didn't turn,nor the drum belt. The motor belt does move. I have tried repositioning pulley.
I thought something may be between drum and shaft or bottom right pulley is not lined up correctly.
I also tried to get the square bolt out of top pulley, but can not budge it. I've greased it inside and out but still can't break it free.
How did you get your's out ? I see you showed the round part of wrench placed around it, but nothing works for me. I do not have a torch, but I may try a hand steamer on the bolt itself. I assume I'm going counter clockwise ?
Also- I noticed the washer on the pulley has a worn flat edge (this may not be visible in pic, since it's in the bottom part of picture frame). Might this be the reason for drum not turning ?
Any advice would greatly be appreciated.
Thanks


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 4         View Full Size
Post# 1049754 , Reply# 24   11/3/2019 at 07:58 (1,632 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Removing the bolt on the drum pulley on a HOH dryer

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You just need a very good Vice-Grip pliers or a small pipe wrench, these are tight but I have never had any real trouble removing or reinstalling one.

 

But you should take the blower out to lubricate the bearing in it and the main drum bearing as well, use a light oil on the BB and a heavy grease on the main drum bearing.

 

John L.


Post# 1049805 , Reply# 25   11/3/2019 at 17:18 (1,631 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Hi Julie. I have to agree with you, Maytag 806's are among the best out there. As for the tight bolt, you may try tapping it lightly to get it going. Remember Righty-Tighty, Lefty-Lucy. As for lubrication I used Zoom Spout oil on the wick on the drum shaft bearing, and greased the pulley tensioner. I found this thread (link) helpful when refurbishing my 806. Once I greased and reinstalled the belts, it was very tight. It took a lot of effort just to move it by hand. Perhaps you are experiencing the same thing. Anyway, keep us posted!



CLICK HERE TO GO TO Ultramatic's LINK

Post# 1053108 , Reply# 26   12/4/2019 at 00:36 (1,601 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Loud!

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The DE806 has developed a low rumbling sound, along with a sight squeak. When I was rebuilding it, I used Zoom oil and the correct grease to lube the tensioner. I'm going to have to open it up again. Sigh.


Post# 1053113 , Reply# 27   12/4/2019 at 01:14 (1,601 days old) by DaveAMKrayoGuy (Oak Park, MI)        

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A lot of pics of that work in progress, and enough to make a record number...

Keep up the good work...



ó Dave


Post# 1053117 , Reply# 28   12/4/2019 at 05:20 (1,601 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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you'll figure it out in no time.....your just at the fine tuning stage

that is just a beautiful machine all cleaned and lit up.....

amazing what a few sprays of windex, cleaning cloths, and elbow grease can do for a machine....

some should take notes!


Post# 1082509 , Reply# 29   7/26/2020 at 16:53 (1,365 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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A question on temperatures. What would be the "Low Heat" setting? Damp Dry?


Post# 1082533 , Reply# 30   7/26/2020 at 18:59 (1,365 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
DE806 Dryer Temperature

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There is only one drying temperature, IF the electronic control is working properly on damp dry the clothes probably would only reach around 100F but the dryer will stop with very damp clothing.

 

On PP the sensor takes the clothing to a lower moisture level so the clothing end up getting hotter on PP, many customers dried everything on PP as the regular did not always get things as dry as many users wanted.

 

John L.


Post# 1082563 , Reply# 31   7/27/2020 at 00:02 (1,365 days old) by chetlaham (United States)        

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Why is green used as a current carrying conductor?

Post# 1082568 , Reply# 32   7/27/2020 at 01:44 (1,365 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Thanks John

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Yeah, I thought so. Very true about using the Permanent Press cycle. I use it all the time because it dries the best. I have some cotton blankets that stipulate to dry in "Low Heat". I've been reluctant to put them in the Maytag.


Post# 1082587 , Reply# 33   7/27/2020 at 06:11 (1,365 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Drying Cotton @ Low Heat ??

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Most Washing Instructions on clothing today are incorrect, just use your common sense when washing and drying clothing.

 

The problem with the dry @ low heat instruction is they don't say what is low heat, I would dry them on normal and if not completely dry lay them out to finish drying before storing them away.

 

John L.


Post# 1082590 , Reply# 34   7/27/2020 at 06:23 (1,365 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Yup. That's what the tag says. Well, no matter how much could it shrink?


  View Full Size
Post# 1086189 , Reply# 35   8/23/2020 at 17:25 (1,337 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Something I had forgotten to mention. At the end of every cycle, the bell would ring as normal. But once in awhile, the bell rings and the cycle will continue, usually for a half hour more, then it will shut off. The bell does not ring again. What could be causing this?


Post# 1086191 , Reply# 36   8/23/2020 at 17:44 (1,337 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

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The bell only rings once on these machines before shutting off. The cool down thermostat is responsible for cutting power to the motor once temps hit 120F and below. Check that the paper clip linkage is free working smoothly and the tab it's connect to. That tab itself can break or start to crumble where the linkage connects. That sliding mechanism on the control board can become loosey goosey after a gazillion cycles and cause intermittent operation.

Post# 1086226 , Reply# 37   8/23/2020 at 21:29 (1,337 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Thanks Dan!

 


Post# 1132221 , Reply# 38   10/28/2021 at 19:02 (906 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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After 3 years of faithful service, I decided to open up the rear panel for a look see. Quite dusty, but not as bad as I thought it would be. Still operating on 115V service. I'll do some vacuuming and add some sound mats before putting it back in service.

 

DE 62

 

DE 63


Post# 1132256 , Reply# 39   10/29/2021 at 09:54 (906 days old) by mtn1584 (USA)        

Go Louie!
Btw how do you like the SQ?
Mike


Post# 1132408 , Reply# 40   10/31/2021 at 14:34 (903 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Mike I am very happy with it. I like I only have to press power, then start and it automatically reuses the last cycle. No reprogramming. The laundry comes out very clean and a little dryer after the spin compared to the Kenmore Elite. The only thing, as I mentioned earlier, I wish it had more wash options. Eventually I'll get the matching dryer.


Post# 1195347 , Reply# 41   12/13/2023 at 22:24 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        
Old thread

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Is this the correct way to connect an electric HOH to 120v? Just double checking, zoomed in on Louisís video and this appears is to how his DE806 is wired up.

  View Full Size
Post# 1195361 , Reply# 42   12/14/2023 at 06:45 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
It is functionally, correct

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And is one of at least two ways to put a 120 V cord on a 240 V dryer

Normally you would connect the green wire directly to the frame of the machine and remove the ground strap leave all the other wires where they were from the factory But move the blue wire to the center post where the white wires are and attach the white wire to the center post and the black wire to the post on the right side, the way Louie has it it will work fine, but he has his polarity backwards, with it this way, he could be electrocuted, changing the lightbulb, if he forgets to unplug the machine and touches the edge of the bulb.

John


Post# 1198093 , Reply# 43   1/27/2024 at 20:08 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Today I noticed a faint ozone odor coming from the dryer. That usually means the motor windings are beginning to overheat, wire insulation melting or the heating element. It continues to work fine. Tomorrow I'll be opening it up to see where the smell is coming from, and correct it if possible. Also need to give it a thorough cleaning and change the fluorescent lamp.


Post# 1198095 , Reply# 44   1/27/2024 at 21:08 by qsd-dan (West)        

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Remove the belts and carefully spin all of the pulleys, including the motor, and confirm they turn easily. Something may be binding up.

If that checks out okay, it may be burned contacts on the start switch.

Whatever it's, hopefully it's simple.


Post# 1198096 , Reply# 45   1/27/2024 at 21:24 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Ozone smell from an electric dryer

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You would have to have a continuous arcing going on to produce ozone. It would not be ever caused by motor windings, or even the start switch in the dryer, you probably should check the dryer out but I donít think youíre smelling ozone.

There are all kinds of smells a dryer could make, however, most common would be something in the household environment, being drawn over the heating element that can make all kinds of interesting smells that can cause concern.

And of course, the motor windings themselves could be starting to overheat from blocked air passages or insulation breakdown, which will cause them to short slightly, and start to earn the insulation on them.

John


Post# 1198109 , Reply# 46   1/28/2024 at 01:04 by chetlaham (United States)        

chetlaham's profile picture
Ultramatic, thank you for making this thread. This dryer is so cool and the concept of using a thyristor, solenoid actuated cycle termination and metal moisture strip has me wanting to know more. Do have the service manual to this dryer by chance or know where to find it?

BTW I find the choice of wiring colors in this machine fascinating and rather eye candy. Like the green for the motor and blue and yellow as the hots on the terminal block. The twirls around some of the wires. Whom ever was tasked in wiring this dryer had fun- I wish I could have been there.


Post# 1198342 , Reply# 47   1/31/2024 at 12:55 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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The issue seems to be emanating from the timer. It had developed an issue lately that you had to push and hold the start button for the dryer to start. Now the dryer suddenly stopped working and will not start. I'll open it up today to see if it's something I want to tackle.


Post# 1198348 , Reply# 48   1/31/2024 at 14:51 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        

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It sounds like something is not too happy. Hopefully itís something simple, but will have to look into it to look into why itís suddenly having issues.

Post# 1198349 , Reply# 49   1/31/2024 at 15:21 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Now it's working again when you push the start knob. I believe this may be a separate issue from the ozone smell. 


Post# 1199943 , Reply# 50   2/22/2024 at 14:47 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Well then, so this was the culprit of the smell. This does not bode well.

 

DE-806


Post# 1199944 , Reply# 51   2/22/2024 at 14:59 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Time to replace the outlet and the power cord. And I'll keep checking everything else from there.


Post# 1199958 , Reply# 52   2/22/2024 at 18:45 by qsd-dan (West)        

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Most likely a bad connection on that leg of the prong. If you have a fine metal file, you can polish that prong (I'd do the other, too) and reuse it. A new outlet is a must though.

Post# 1199963 , Reply# 53   2/22/2024 at 19:46 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
This is a common problem with 120 V dryers

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Because they run such a long period of time drawing full amperage,

This should not be on a ground fault outlet theyíre not durable enough for this type of current draw definitely get a 20 amp outlet even if itís only on a 15 amp circuit.

When you replace the cord on the dryer be sure itís a minimum of 14 gauge but it would be far better to get a 12 gauge cord then youíll never have this problem again.

Glad the dryer itself isnít burning up. I was skeptical when you said you smelled the arking from the outlet may have made an ozone type smell.

John


Post# 1199970 , Reply# 54   2/22/2024 at 20:59 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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I went with a Leviton GFWT2-W GFCI receptacle rated 20-amps. And a 10 gauge cord/plug. Overkill? Perhaps. This is a 20-amp circuit. And for kicks, I am replacing the original fluorescent bulb with an LED equivalent.  But I am not out of the woods yet. There are other issues that need to be addressed.

 


Post# 1200154 , Reply# 55   2/25/2024 at 10:21 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Thicker is always better.

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New 10 gauge wire and plug.

 

DE806 Wire and plug


Post# 1201271 , Reply# 56   3/10/2024 at 17:34 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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I followed the wiring diagram for the DE806 and no dice. Will not turn on. The outlet is good.

 

Maytag DE806

 

Maytag DE806 2


Post# 1201286 , Reply# 57   3/10/2024 at 19:07 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Thanks to a member of a group on FB, I corrected the wiring.

 

Maytag DE806 (1972) Correct wiring for 120V

 

Maytag DE806 (1972)


Post# 1201287 , Reply# 58   3/10/2024 at 19:10 by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Now for the intermittent heating and the drum light failing to come on.


Post# 1202128 , Reply# 59   3/22/2024 at 22:46 by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Update:

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A member from my Facebook group suggested to wipe down the metal bars on the baffles of the drum with rubbing alcohol. Well that cured the dryer shutting off prematurely. I'm surprised it was such a simple fix. Now it continues to run until the clothes are almost totally dry (Permanent Press) and the bell rings correctly. However it barely gets warm, not hot. After the cycle ended I ran it again on Permanent Press. This time it ran for 10 minutes or so, but it got HOT. The clothes were totally dry. This is how the dryer used to work originally. Could it be the cycling thermostat is failing? They are still readily available. Or perhaps the High Limit thermostat? Tomorrow I am opening the dryer up for some cleaning and lubrication.

 

I still have to check the drum light bulb on why it does not light, and to check whether the drum seal needs to be replaced.


Post# 1202134 , Reply# 60   3/22/2024 at 23:43 by Maytag85 (Sean A806)        

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Do you hear an audible click from the high limit thermostat when it cycles the heating element off? If itís cycling on the high limit thermostat despite having clear and unobstructed venting, it may mean the high limit thermostat is getting on the weak side. Some of the 06 series HOH dryers built from 1966 to 1975 use a L150-20 high limit thermostat, others used a L200-30 (L190-40 will work as well).


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