Thread Number: 78175  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
1987 Lady Kenmore 90 Series! Project/Restoration
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Post# 1022020   1/22/2019 at 10:20 (1,916 days old) by Jrsydevil (East Brunswick, NJ)        

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Hello everyone! This is my 1987 Lady Kenmore 90 Series Washing Machine, I recently purchased it for $100, everything works, including the Triple Dispenser! I'm proud to have this machine, as this was one of the dream machines I had been looking for. I plan on using it full time, however, It's in need of a very good cleaning. For 31 years of service, I'm impressed that everything works just fine! Just goes to show you how reliable these old machines are compared to todays HE machines in just 5 years! Right now I have some things taken apart like the cabinet, and the agitator. I'm gonna be posting questions and the progress of this machine on this thread. Once this project is complete I will make a youtube video of the washer running a load of clothes, with the operation of the triple dispenser feature! Stay tuned!

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Post# 1022027 , Reply# 1   1/22/2019 at 11:12 (1,916 days old) by Washerlover (The Big Island, Hawaiíi)        

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Congratulations! Looks like the model is circa 1986 after looking at the model number. Am assuming this is one of the first direct-drive Kenmores?

Post# 1022036 , Reply# 2   1/22/2019 at 12:13 (1,916 days old) by DADoES (TX,†U.S. of A.)        

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Washerlover: Am assuming this is one of the first direct-drive Kenmores?
1986 is 5 years in.† The first DDs were introduced under the Kenmore brand circa 1981.


Post# 1022040 , Reply# 3   1/22/2019 at 12:28 (1,916 days old) by Washerlover (The Big Island, Hawaiíi)        

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Interesting! So Kenmore/Whirlpool was making both belt- and direct-drives for a few years?

Post# 1022044 , Reply# 4   1/22/2019 at 12:36 (1,916 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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1986 is about correct for the introduction of the 27" direct drive units....

this was my first Lady Kenmore set I got in Platinum when they came out, as Sears was phasing out the belt drive machines....I had a choice of this, or a belt drive for half the price....I wanted the new design

only the Lady K had the chrome trim around the control panel, all other models were black...

mine had two water pressure switches, one regular, and one for overflow prevention...good and bad for if you overfilled by holding the water level switch it shut the machine down, and you didn't know why...siphon out some water manually to reset the switch and you were fine...



Auto Temp Control on these was ON all the time....this was a time when temps were boosted upwards.....the cold rinses were tempered a bit as well...

that agitator doesn't look like the original....the PLUS came out around 1989, and the TRIPLE came out around 1996...



Normal cycle was high speed wash and spin at this time frame....use Gentle cycle for lowest water level.....this was mainly where ShredMore got its name....

Ryan lucked out as the insert for liquid detergent is included....

taking the body off is slightly different with the dispenser setup.....remove the two screws on the control panel, lift/flip that up and out of the way, on the far left is a small plastic panel, slide that over, and disconnect the three hoses, insert flat screwdriver and remove the two snap clamps holding the body, and unplug the lid switch....then lift the body off the machine's base....some water will spill from the dispensers...


you may want to consider adding some insulation while its apart.....really quiets these machines down....


Post# 1022085 , Reply# 5   1/22/2019 at 17:59 (1,916 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
!987 LKM DD Washer

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Hi Ryan, these are great washers and very worthy of being an every day machine.

 

These DD WP built KMs were really the best conventional top load washers ever built, they greatly outperform MTs that for sure.

 

Your new machine was built the 22nd week of 1987, keep us posted I am completely familiar with this washer and would have about any part you might need for it.

 

John L.


Post# 1022113 , Reply# 6   1/22/2019 at 22:39 (1,916 days old) by jrsydevil (East Brunswick, NJ)        
Update #1

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Thank you everyone I appreciate all your feedback! Here's a current update on this project. So I've taken the cabinet off along with the 3 hoses going into the triple dispenser. (Way easier than I thought it was gonna be!) With the cabinet off I sprayed and wiped down the inside as it was full of dust and debris. I then took apart the triple dispenser along with the 3 hoses, and washed them down, now they're in a bucket soaking in hot water with bleach for a day. I also discovered the water spout has 2 orange wires going to it, I suppose this is for the Auto Temperature Control feature? I plan on cleaning the water spout, what would be the best suggestion to doing that since there's 2 wires going to it? Also Martin, I may consider putting insulation on this washer, where would I put some, inside the cabinet? Here's some pictures of what's going on.

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Post# 1022118 , Reply# 7   1/22/2019 at 23:09 (1,916 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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many times you can disconnect the spout, and pop it open, just scrub it real good.....sometimes soaking in a heavy concentration of vinegar will help...

that balance ring can be removed and clean under that area as well....I think I would pull the whole tub as well...



I use egg crate foam, and glue to the interior of the cabinet.....cutting out areas where the pump would be.....

many of the Quiet Pak series had a fiber board panel that snapped in the bottom, certain areas covered in foam.....which you can actually make yourself...

also the newer models used a pump with a backflow valve, which silenced the cavitation noise while agitating.....it will fit yours too, but you must also change the lower hose to fit...










Post# 1022120 , Reply# 8   1/22/2019 at 23:17 (1,916 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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I have this Limited set in Ebony from 1998....3 speed...but with the larger base Kitchen Aid agitator inside...







Post# 1022215 , Reply# 9   1/23/2019 at 19:45 (1,915 days old) by jrsydevil (East Brunswick, NJ)        
Update #2

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That's pretty cool Martin! So right now the water spout is getting cleaned, and I've taken out the porcelain tub, the bottom, the inside of the shaft, and the transmission shaft are pretty rusty, is there something that can be done about it?? And I'm also cleaning the plastic filter that came from the bottom of the tub. Pretty happy it stayed in one piece!

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Post# 1022224 , Reply# 10   1/23/2019 at 20:52 (1,915 days old) by DADoES (TX,†U.S. of A.)        

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Clean the basket to determine how much of that is muck and scum and how much is rust/deterioration.

Replacement baskets are available.† All the major parts, including the tub support/centerpost, are available depending on how far you want to go ($pend) on a rebuild.

POR15 is a rust treatment product that's often touted but applying it up into the neck of the basket would be a challenge.† It's also technically a primer and a topcoat should be applied for long-term durability.† It deteriorates on exposure to UV but that's not an issue on interior parts of a washer.

Another consideration is finding a donor machine with a better-condition basket.

I would leave the filter off.† It doesn't do much and tends to hold some (damp) lint which contributes to the rusting.


Post# 1022225 , Reply# 11   1/23/2019 at 21:00 (1,915 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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as Glenn mentioned....a FREE newer donor machine may not be a bad idea....

CLICK HERE TO GO TO Yogitunes's LINK on New York Craigslist


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Post# 1022227 , Reply# 12   1/23/2019 at 21:08 (1,915 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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spare parts....and a close matching dryer?.....

available options!


CLICK HERE TO GO TO Yogitunes's LINK on Newjersey Craigslist


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Post# 1022271 , Reply# 13   1/24/2019 at 08:51 (1,915 days old) by Jrsydevil (East Brunswick, NJ)        

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Thanks for the information Glenn! I'm gonna try to clean out the porcelain tub and see how it turns out, also this weekend I'm going to my uncles house, I just remembered that he has the exact same model washer in his basement that's been taken apart, and out of service for probably 15 years. The cabinet, the back panel, the agitator, and the console are gone, but he still has the porcelain tub, I'm gonna check it out and see what kind of condition it's in, and probably hold on to it as a spare. Thank you for the links Martin, always appreciated!

Post# 1022306 , Reply# 14   1/24/2019 at 16:58 (1,914 days old) by chetlaham (United States)        

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I agree that a parts donor would be best. You could even lift out the whole tub and transmission assembly out off the pedestal and put in the one from the donor. But of course that takes all the fun away.

BTW, get a pic of the tech sheet, that looks like a busy one.


Congrats on finding this machine, it is one of the best washers ever made if not the best ever made.


Post# 1022410 , Reply# 15   1/25/2019 at 09:06 (1,914 days old) by Jrsydevil (East Brunswick, NJ)        

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Here's the diagram! Is it legible?

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Post# 1022415 , Reply# 16   1/25/2019 at 10:53 (1,913 days old) by Jrsydevil (East Brunswick, NJ)        
Update #3

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I took some time yesterday to clean the transmission shaft, and the plastic tub. I used a sturdy brush to get rid of all the gunk and rust on the shaft. And I used some cleaner spray w/ bleach and some Fantastik on the plastic tub, what do you think?

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Post# 1022418 , Reply# 17   1/25/2019 at 11:09 (1,913 days old) by Jrsydevil (East Brunswick, NJ)        
Update #3

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I took some time yesterday to clean the transmission shaft, and the plastic tub. I used a sturdy brush to get rid of all the gunk and rust on the shaft. And I used some cleaner spray w/ bleach and some Fantastik on the plastic tub, what do you think?

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Post# 1022436 , Reply# 18   1/25/2019 at 14:11 (1,913 days old) by chetlaham (United States)        

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Yes, thats it! No worries, I can read it.

Post# 1022440 , Reply# 19   1/25/2019 at 15:01 (1,913 days old) by neptunebob (Pittsburgh, PA)        

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Jerseydevil, now that you have done such a good job on the washer, could you please clean the ring-around-the-toilet in the background?


Post# 1022446 , Reply# 20   1/25/2019 at 15:36 (1,913 days old) by DADoES (TX,†U.S. of A.)        

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I'd be concerned about leaking developing at the tub/centerpost donut seal, what with the rusting in-progress there.† Neighbors of my parents called me several months ago with a substantial leak from their 1998 WP.† I found a hefty flow coming from under the tub.† Did not disassemble to check (they opted to replace the machine) but I suspect centerpost rust-through.

It also doesn't look good at the top seal.

Close-up pics of those areas would clarify.

The agitator splines are good.


Post# 1022964 , Reply# 21   1/29/2019 at 21:36 (1,909 days old) by jrsydevil (East Brunswick, NJ)        

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Here's some close up pictures of the seal. What are your thoughts on the remaining rust on the centerpost?

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Post# 1022983 , Reply# 22   1/30/2019 at 00:25 (1,909 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

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If it was one of my machines, I would go ahead and pull the outer tub and replace the tub seal. I would polish the rust off of the center post first which makes it much easier to remove the tub. Then you can see what the area where the seal is actually looks like. If itís not too bad I would sand the remaining area of the center post and coat it. If itís too bad and you want to have this machine for the long run, I would replace center post tub support assembly, which comes with new bearings already installed, and also a new basket drive. Support part number is w10863713(63740) and basket drive is w10820043(285792). Congrats on a great kenmore find and good luck!

Post# 1022986 , Reply# 23   1/30/2019 at 01:54 (1,909 days old) by toploadloyalist (San Luis Obispo, CA)        

Was 1987 the year Kenmore debuted their rubber hockey puck-like control knobs, or the year before?

Post# 1023644 , Reply# 24   2/5/2019 at 09:43 (1,902 days old) by Jrsydevil (East Brunswick, NJ)        

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I got the plastic tub removed, along with the tub seal, it held up pretty well, (of course before I began wedging it with a flathead) I'm going to be replacing the seal, and I want your opinion on the centerpost, I used a sand sponge to try and clean it. Still a bit of rust on it thats hard to get off, what would be the solution to that? And once its nice and clean what should I use to coat it?

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Post# 1023647 , Reply# 25   2/5/2019 at 10:51 (1,902 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

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Looking good! Personally I use 3m industrial 800 sealant but everybody has their own opinion on this.

Post# 1023716 , Reply# 26   2/5/2019 at 21:47 (1,902 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

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More important than the outside of the center-post is the condition of the spin tube and the agitator shaft, both look rusted. The first thing I do is take rags and clean both these shafts above the seals, and if there is rust on these items and especially if it extends below the seal lip the machine will not last long at all unless these seals and shafts are replaced.

 

John L.


Post# 1025066 , Reply# 27   2/18/2019 at 22:10 (1,889 days old) by jrsydevil (East Brunswick, NJ)        
Update #4

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Hey guys, I've been a little busy for a while. But here's an update.
I finally bought myself a spanner wrench online to make life easier! And I got a hold of my uncles old washing machine which is a Lady Kenmore 90 series as well! Which has been out of service for 15-20 years. I took the inner tub out of that washer and it looks a lot better than the one from my washer! What do you think? Also here are some closer pics of the spin tube and shaft after cleaning them with a rag. I may leave them as is for now, if problems come along down the road I'll get them taken care of. And the lid switch is broken and needs to be replaced. This project will now be in full swing since I got the tools and parts necessary.


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Post# 1025345 , Reply# 28   2/22/2019 at 10:37 (1,885 days old) by Jrsydevil (East Brunswick, NJ)        

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Hey guys so I got the inner tub cleaned, I'll get pictures of it later, but I noticed there's just little rust on some of the holes inside the tub, and a part of the white paint missing on one area. Is there any I can touch it up so it looks nice? If so, what should I use, and would there be any steps for it??

Post# 1025469 , Reply# 29   2/23/2019 at 23:58 (1,884 days old) by jrsydevil (East Brunswick, NJ)        

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Here's some pictures..

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Post# 1025480 , Reply# 30   2/24/2019 at 07:14 (1,884 days old) by Combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Chipped and rusted wash basket

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You can paint them with Epoxy paint, or marine paint but youíre better off looking for another basket in the long run.

Post# 1025506 , Reply# 31   2/24/2019 at 13:05 (1,883 days old) by DADoES (TX,†U.S. of A.)        

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Doesn't seem bad at all to me but maybe my standards are low based on what's common around here, LOL.


Post# 1198313 , Reply# 32   1/30/2024 at 17:30 by ScantPear1985 (Colorado )        
Tripple dispenser especially the detergent dispenser.

Hey yall, i have a washer model just like this and another washer that is the same but it is the kenmore elite version that has the triple dispensers similar to the calypso washers. I need help with customizing something on the older one, the lady kenmore i have which is not getting only hot and only cold in the tripple dispensers mainly the detergent dispenser. The reason why i am wanting to do this is because when i use a hot or cold water wash, the detergent dispenser flushes with warm no matter what. that means if i pause it a bunch of times when it is filling for the wash because of me remembering things at least several times that i forgot to add to the wash load originally, i would stop the washer each time i do so. When i keep having doing that a bunch of times, the warm water will start filling into the machine through the detergent dispenser each time i start it back up on a wash cycle fill and it will of curse give me warm water every time even if i have the water temperature switch selected on hot only or cold only. I need help to find what wires to work with for splicing and wiring in to make it flush with what temperature i have selected on the temperature switch. My 1999 kenmore elite which has the newer triple dispensers like the claypso has flushes the temperature switch selected water temperature through the detergent dispenser. Why not my older ldy kenmore. It should be the same as my kenmore elite. That means i will need help working in the wiring diagram to find out which wires to splice and wire cap with. I appreciate any help towards making that cosomization/repair work. I trued calling a friend and he was telling me just leave it as is. But thats not why i need to do this. Just because it is filling through a dispenser does not mean it needs to not give me the temperature i have told the machine to give me. I may have misspelled words because i typing hates me for whatever readon do bare with me as well.

Post# 1198325 , Reply# 33   1/30/2024 at 19:54 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
First triple dispenser, direct drive washers

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These machines had a different main inlet valve. All the water that supplied to the dispensers is always warm. Thereís no way to electrically rewire this. If this bothers you when youíre doing a hot wash, turn off the cold water so the washer fills for wash if youíre doing a cold wash Turn off the hot water.

And of course donít turn the machine on and off start it and let it go through the cycle. Otherwise, as you found out, it will keep adding water through the dispenser for a minute or two each time.

John


Post# 1198747 , Reply# 34   2/7/2024 at 16:14 by dominic20 (Souix falls)        
hey nice find

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dds are very easy fi fix except removing the tranie also a friend of mine had one like that a 70 series

Post# 1198763 , Reply# 35   2/7/2024 at 20:56 by chetlaham (United States)        
Interesting

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As elegant as Kenmore's approach of having dedicated valves for the dispensers is, they should have placed the flood switch in the combined neutral of the dispenser valves vs the main incoming line. If someone kept setting the knob from the start of the cycle the machine could ever fill tripping the flood switch leaving the user with a tub full of water and no way to drain it out. Not very smart IMO. I wonder why they did it that way.

Post# 1198779 , Reply# 36   2/8/2024 at 06:39 by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Early Kenmore, triple dispensers

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Not really likely to overflow even at full water level you would have to set it through 10 more dispense Ashens to get the machine to overflow, and since this machine will operate with the lid open, you would see that youíre causing a mess and it wouldnít be a big flood even if you did it, this would be like standing there and holding the little fingertip water dispenser models where you could wet an item for spot scrubbing, so long that the tub would fill up and overflow I donít think itís ever happened.

Reply number 34, hi Dominic, itís actually very easy to change the transmission and a direct drive washer. It was the easiest modern washer ever to change the transmission in the only other machine that came close were the GE filter flows were quite easy to do it transmission swap

Probably the next easiest machine would be a whirlpool belt drive washer. They werenít too bad to change. To change the transmission in most other machines were so labor-intensive it was almost never done generally when you had a Westinghouse WCI, Norge and several other machines transmission fail It was the end of the washer 90% of the time nobody wanted to pay for the labor for changing a transmission even Maytag you generally never changed the transmission on thankfully, for Maytag, they didnít have much trouble in the early years of the machines life.

John




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