Thread Number: 78222
/ Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
used miele washer recommendations for usa
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|Post# 1022513   1/26/2019 at 09:33 (1,860 days old) by jbellafesta (Pittsburgh, PA)
I'm curious which US Miele washer models members would recommend to buy used in terms of reliability, performance, and servicability. Is there a strong preference for 240v machines for wash performance and times?
|Post# 1022515 , Reply# 1   1/26/2019 at 09:46 (1,860 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)
Unless you can find one in near mint condition I'd avoid the W700, W1065, W1070 series. MieleUSA no longer stocks parts and supplies are running low to nil for many.
The 1900 series is also going that way (MieleUSA no longer is ordering parts from Germany, so what is in warehouses is all that will be).
This being said the 12xx, 11XX, 30XX and even 4XXX series of washers are all good, it just depends upon what features you are looking for in a washer.
Personal favorite is the W1926 and W1986 as they seemed to get everything right in terms of capacity, features and a few other boxes ticked.
|Post# 1022522 , Reply# 2   1/26/2019 at 10:47 (1,860 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))
If hot water supply is questionable and many high temperature cycles are run in short amounts of time, the higher heating power does help a ton.
Also, 190F washes (or anything above 170F for that matter) require the higher heating power.
Otherwise no, 120V is perfectly fine for basically everything.
|Post# 1022535 , Reply# 3   1/26/2019 at 12:26 (1,860 days old) by SGT10 (California )
I would stay away from 4840. Not their best effort. I have had 2 die premature deaths (after 8 years, and paying repair bills along the way. Bearings went).
|Post# 1022605 , Reply# 4   1/26/2019 at 20:53 (1,860 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)
In somehow not designing certain parts (including bearings) up to commercial/industrial standards to handle the heavy loads/duty cycles they knew (or should have known) consumers would subject those machines.
It was a sin that the "smaller" 3XXX series washers introduced at same time actually held *more* capacity wise than their larger (by footprint) cousins.
For one thing one could load the 3XXX washer suds container to capacity just like Miele washers of old. Meanwhile Miele was telling 4XXX users to only load the drum three-quarters full at max. How does that work? People were paying a premium for a supposed uber sized washer that didn't hold anymore than its lower priced cousin.
Obviously (IMHO) Miele took some of the money out of the 4XXX washers to bring them in at a certain price point. They know how to build commercial quality washing machines for large to huge loads, they've been doing so for their professional offerings for years.
|Post# 1022724 , Reply# 5   1/27/2019 at 22:49 (1,859 days old) by askolover (South of Nash Vegas, TN)
|Post# 1022727 , Reply# 6   1/27/2019 at 23:11 (1,859 days old) by FreshNclean (WA)
Yeah I wished the they brought a 240v w1 version. I guess they might not to cannabolized the sales of their little giant series .
|Post# 1022733 , Reply# 7   1/27/2019 at 23:45 (1,859 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)
Often enough; eBay is done with 208v-240v for residential washers in USA. Standard advice from MieleUSA now is one wishes such a thing go with the Little Giant line.
OTOH it almost doesn't make much sense for Miele to make themselves stand out in a crowded appliance market by sticking with 120v/220v connections for their North American washing machines. Lord knows it didn't do them any favors before in terms of overall market penetration; and that was before Maytag, Whirlpool and Electrolux (among others) entered the H-axis market.
Earlier models of Miele washing machines sold in North America needed that 3200 watts of heating power (2x 1500 watt heaters) because of much higher wash cycle water use. Just as in Europe today Miele and other front loaders use less water for most wash cycles, this translates into less heating power required.
For the North American market Miele washers are considered "compact". Designed and largely marketed to those with space challenges who need something with a small footprint. This can and often means urban dwellers of multifamily housing. Such persons often do not have direct control of electrical supply.
From white glove condo/co-op buildings to rentals no end of potential Miele buyers were told "no", they couldn't have their electrical service upgraded to meet requirements. This is one reason why so many older 120/220v Miele washers sit on eBay, CL and elsewhere often even when going for very little money. People just don't have the proper electrical connections, nor can they obtain.
You can't even run those machines off a step-up transformer because of the dual 120v/220v requirement.
In actuality Miele solved the power problem for their washers internally. Where needed small step-up transformers boost 120v power to what is required. This gives Miele the ability to still build machines across several country platforms with minimum of differences.
|Post# 1023129 , Reply# 8   1/31/2019 at 06:17 (1,855 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)
Those parts of the country fortunate enough not to force everyone into high density housing powered by antiquated electrical systems can easily operate a Miele pair on the dryer circuit furnished with the house. I say to hell with the glamour of big city life if I cannot have the laundry equipment I want. Washer and dryer connections were always the first thing I checked along with an electric range or the ability to install one when looking for a long term living situation.
I don't understand the comment about the higher water amounts to be heated with the earlier series Mieles. My 1900 series machines use enough water in the wash cycle to saturate the load and maybe a gallon beyond that judging by what drains out into the laundry sink. An equal amount of water is spun out of heavy fabrics compared to what drains out in the initial drain phase after the wash.
|Post# 1023131 , Reply# 9   1/31/2019 at 07:06 (1,855 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))
Not quite, closer to about 3gal.
Over here, usage on the later machines with the smaller drum was about 50l for a 10lbs load with 4 low level fills.
That's about 14gal.
And it is true that previous 3 dial machines sometimes had about 1000W more heating power (3.6kW total) and ran on 220V 16A circuits over here.
|Post# 1023132 , Reply# 10   1/31/2019 at 07:33 (1,855 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)
Not because of the 208-240 volt requirement as much as few people want one, they are too expensive to repair and too hard to even find someone willing to repair them at all.
Try selling a used Sub-Zero or even a 10 YO Mercedes, it will often cost you more to buy a 10 YO Toyota, people buying used are looking for bargain and something that works.
95% of US homes that can have laundry appliances have 209-240 volt power available.
Main bearings in washing machines NEVER fail because they are too small and not up to the job, They fail because the water seal fails and water seals most often fail because of poor customer usage-laundry habits.
I have had customers that had as many as three similar washers with bearing or spider failures while the customer in the condo next door has never had a problem with the first washer.
The customer with all the failures says I only wash in cold water, I only use a tiny amount of detergent, I NEVER use chlorine bleach, and I have just bought my 3rd washer in 15 years, LOL.
|Post# 1023161 , Reply# 11   1/31/2019 at 11:06 (1,855 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)
Miele W1065/W1070: www.manualslib.com/manual...
It seems by the 19XX series things were brought down to about 13 gallons per load (Cottons).
My W1070 has three water levels:
Low - Cottons/Permanent Press wash
Medium - Delicates wash
High - Woolens wash
All rinses are done at high level regardless of cycle chosen. One can decrease water usage by pressing the "one-half" button which rinses at lower levels. This button is also used for starching, and Miele suggests using enough product for five gallons of water.
Extended pre-soak is at high level. Normal pre-wash is at whatever level for cycle selected (Normal/Cottons, Permanent Press, Delicates). Pre-wash is disabled IIRC for Woolens.
The Miele can and will overflow sink when draining if water does not leave quick enough (clogged or slow sink filter for instance), after the wash cycle. It most surely will and faster the same for any of the rinses if one doesn't keep an eye on things.
OTOH there is never any danger of this happening from Lavamat. From wash and any of the rinses water barely reaches one-third up the way in sink. Only time there is the remote chance of overflow is if sink drain filter is clogged and water from two or more drain cycles cannot evacuate totally before another begins.
The Lavamat also will not top up with water once a certain level has been reached. Attempting to do so manually may trigger the overflow sensors, then machine will simply drain and throw a fault code. What the Lavamat will do is display a message indicating percentage of overload (120%, 130%, etc...)
The older Miele OTOH will stop and top up at any point in cycle it detects water level has dropped. If this occurs several minutes before draining, so be it. Machine also will turn on the thermostat to heat that newly added water if necessary.
|Post# 1023165 , Reply# 12   1/31/2019 at 11:46 (1,855 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD)
Those three washers in 15 years killed themselves just to escape the awful situation and fetid smell inside. How anyone can claim to be wearing clean clothes that came out of a washer that smells like a sewer is beyond me.