Thread Number: 78699
/ Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Maytag MVWP575GW - How to Get Hot Tap Water Wash |
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Post# 1027010 , Reply# 1   3/14/2019 at 04:00 (1,870 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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a few things that I have done to acquire a hot water wash.....
water heater setting.....140 or higher... remove the restrictor from the hot water side of the valve.... the most I see is a 10 degree drop.....my water heater is set at 160.... all brass valves, with or without individual valves, can be found at Lowes or HomeDepot... CLICK HERE TO GO TO Yogitunes's LINK
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Post# 1027118 , Reply# 3   3/15/2019 at 08:50 (1,869 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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it has become a dilemma for some with these new washers....
many are getting more harder to alter to our liking....some machines will even detect if both faucets are not turned on, or if the hoses are reversed... probably always best to turn off your faucets to the washer when it is not in use, unplugging the unit wouldn't hurt either... many have just added a 'Y' at the hot tap, with an extra hose, and manually added water to the machine.....purging the hot water line before starting wash is a benefit as well... the 'NORMAL' cycle on most of these machine by Gov't Regulations use the least amount of energy....ie, water temp and water levels.... you have to experiment with your machine to see what each cycle and option would give you.... I have one that is more precise to select the cycle by water level needed.....Normal = Mini, Casual/Easy Care = Medium, Towel/Sheets = Large |
Post# 1035543 , Reply# 10   6/17/2019 at 12:48 (1,775 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Greetings, Pinky. You seem to be misunderstanding the role of the thermistor in temperature control. It doesn't control the temperature directly. It only reports the temperature it senses (via the resistance reading) to the controller board. The controller board turns the valves on or off to attain an average temperature reading per its programming. If the board wants 85°F or 40°C or whatever target for the selected temperature ... let's say warm ... then it may initially run the hot valve until the thermistor reads too high on whatever swing range the programming allows, then it turns on the cold valve. When the temp reading drops below the "tolerance" range, it turns hot back on. The temperature of the water IN THE TUB averages to the target when fill is finished. Obviously, it can't get cooler than tap cold or hotter than tap hot. Depends on the specific machine's programming which valve is "favored" for a specific temp selection, and it may also vary from one cycle to another on the same machine. Some may favor cold for the warm setting and add hot as needed. Some may favor hot and add cold as needed. Most would reasonably favor cold for cold or cool and add hot as needed. Those resistance readings on the tech sheet typically do not reflect any of the temperature settings on the machine. Notice your sheet does not label any specific temperature settings by name to those three °C / resistance ranges. They're a reference for what the thermistor resistance should read at those stated room/ambient temperatures, for a service tech to test the thermistor with a volt/ohm meter. If it's out of the stated range ... for example if it reads 20K ohms at a 77°F room temperature or 100K ohms at 90°F, then the thermistor is bad and needs to be replaced. Room/ambient temperature may not be exactly at the points stated on the tech sheet so the resistance range has to be interpolated accordingly. Higher temperature lowers the resistance. Service literature for washers usually doesn't state what are the specific target temperatures for each selection on the machine. It may just say, for example, to set the machine for a warm fill, check that the temperature in the tub when it's finished is between 100°F and 85°F .. or something to that effect. |
Post# 1035596 , Reply# 13   6/18/2019 at 07:42 (1,774 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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So many misconceptions
turning the inlet valves on and off does not hurt them, they are also slow-close design so you should not have water hammer. Mechanical washer timers do not cost $100 anymore, try $200 or more. I have never seen a bad temperature thermistor on a washer. I am one of the majority of Americans that have and continue to vote for greater energy efficiency, climate change is real. John L. |
Post# 1035598 , Reply# 15   6/18/2019 at 08:32 (1,774 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)   |   | |
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Also, these new "disposable" appliances are not good for energy savings either. |
Post# 1035654 , Reply# 18   6/18/2019 at 16:41 (1,773 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)   |   | |
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In spite of the title, this thread has gone completely off topic. Thank you to all those that tried to help. It is very much appreciated. 😊 |
Post# 1035657 , Reply# 19   6/18/2019 at 17:10 (1,773 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Seems the reasonable workaround for your temp issue is manual control by way of a Y-connector on a single tap with hot/cold faucets, or whatever other arrangement you could muster-up. That would feed your choice of mixed temperature to both the hot and cold valves so that's what'd flow in regardless of which valve is active. |
Post# 1035695 , Reply# 21   6/19/2019 at 06:42 (1,773 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)   |   | |
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Oops. Forgot to add. If I get an error in the future with this setup, I will try relocating the thermistor to where it senses the air instead of water temp. |
Post# 1035755 , Reply# 23   6/20/2019 at 01:28 (1,772 days old) by MattL (Flushing, MI)   |   | |
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Thermisters are cheap to replace. |