Thread Number: 79051  /  Tag: Refrigerators
My General Electric Refrigerator/Bottom Mount Freezer. P1
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Post# 1030013   4/16/2019 at 00:06 (415 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Part of the haul of vintage appliances from Newport, R.I. . Thanks to Jeannine (spacepig) for posting the ad, John (combo52) for letting me know, and a huge thank you to Scott (searsbest) for helping move and load those heavy appliances.

 

This is a General Electric Model TCF19DBC Serial # LB631067, If I am reading the code correctly, it was manufactured on January, 1969. As stated before, it is in remarkable condition for it's age. I was so impressed that I decided to replace my current G.E. Frost Guard with this one. The following are pictures taken in Brooklyn.




This post was last edited 04/16/2019 at 00:29



Post# 1030014 , Reply# 1   4/16/2019 at 00:14 (415 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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1

2

3


Post# 1030015 , Reply# 2   4/16/2019 at 00:23 (415 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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5

6

7

8

9

12

13


Post# 1030016 , Reply# 3   4/16/2019 at 00:27 (415 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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And that compressor, before and after.

 

14

15

16

17


Post# 1030017 , Reply# 4   4/16/2019 at 00:34 (415 days old) by ea56 (Cotati, Calif.)        

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That is a beautiful fridge Louie! They just donít make them like this anymore, and the condition of yours is flawless. I especially like those beautiful, blue, porcelain crisper drawers. Not like the plastic, throw away crap they make now. You ought to get many years of service from this one.

Congratulations on the score.

Eddie


Post# 1030019 , Reply# 5   4/16/2019 at 01:24 (415 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Eddie thank you...

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However, there is bad news. It doesn't work. Yup, from one bad G.E. to another. So here are the symptoms:

 

1) It lights up, fan in the refrigerator compartment goes on.

2) Fan in freezer compartment does not turn on.

3) Condenser fan does not turn on.

4) Compressor does not start.

5) Refrigerator compartment starts to get hot (sound familiar?). Like stuck on the defrost cycle.

6) Amp draw is 0.737

 

18

 

7) Should be 5.8

 

4

 

Soooo, there you have it. I am open to suggestions.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 


Post# 1030028 , Reply# 6   4/16/2019 at 06:52 (414 days old) by spacepig (Floridas Emerald Coast)        

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Oh no, Louis, I'm so sorry to hear this. The fridge looks beautiful. Hope it's an easy fix.

Post# 1030030 , Reply# 7   4/16/2019 at 07:09 (414 days old) by turquoisedude (Ogden & St-Liboire (where??), QC, Canada)        

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Louis, the fridge looks great, but I'm so disappointed to hear that it doesn't seem to be working!

It sounds as if there may be a couple of issues from what you are describing. Perhaps the defrost timer is stuck and forcing the system into a permanent-defrost cycle. There may be a way to manually advance it out of defrost mode.

There may also be an issue with a starting/running relay - I gave up too quickly on a really old Westinghouse fridge that wouldn't cool and it turned out to be a bad relay. I wish I knew more and could offer better suggestions, but I'm rooting for you! It's a beauty of a fridge for sure. Betty Draper would be proud.... LOL


Post# 1030065 , Reply# 8   4/16/2019 at 14:06 (414 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)        

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I bought a relay for my '57 Combination that it didn't need.  I don't know if it's the right replacement for this later fridge, but it's Louie's if he wants it.

 

I really, really hope the compressor didn't give up due to the condenser never having been cleaned.


Post# 1030085 , Reply# 9   4/16/2019 at 18:11 (414 days old) by turbokinetic (Northport, Alabama USA)        
Nonworking fridge....

Hey, it sounds like it's stuck in Defrost. If the compressor was bad, it would almost always do one of two things... A; click off and on with the overload. This would cause periodic dimming of the lights and clicking and humming off and on.

Or, it would actually run, and make a motor running sound without actually cooling.

For it to do "nothing" it's almost certainly an electrical problem in the fridge. I know that John (combo52) is much more well-versed in these than I am; but if I remember from reading his posts, the freezer fan stopping is a sigh of Defrost mode being active. If it didn't ever cycle on, then the timer may be stuck.


Post# 1030088 , Reply# 10   4/16/2019 at 18:48 (414 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Thanks David...

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John (and Paul) were thinking the same thing...perhaps it is stuck on defrost mode. I'm going to attempt to advance the timer 1/8. It's located in the freezer compartment. If it's still a no go, the relay may be the culprit. I am hopeful.


Post# 1030132 , Reply# 11   4/17/2019 at 15:18 (413 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Tiny update...

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When freezer temp control is on and you hold in the door switch, you can hear a whine. But condenser fan, the compressor and freezer fan remain non operational. I'm waiting for the pain killers to kick in so I can get on my back and advance the defrost timer.

 

f2

f1

f5


Post# 1030211 , Reply# 12   4/18/2019 at 16:18 (412 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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The defrost timer moves freely, and I can hear it working. I advanced it, no change.

 

ff2

 

The freezer fan is toast. It has seized, can barely turn it, it's also seems to have broken loose from it's mounting.

 

ff1

 

 

 

 


Post# 1030213 , Reply# 13   4/18/2019 at 16:32 (412 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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I hear these fans are easily replaceable. So now I will need a part number.


Post# 1030227 , Reply# 14   4/18/2019 at 18:03 (412 days old) by turbokinetic (Northport, Alabama USA)        

Interesting about the fan. I bet that will be easy to change.

As for the timer, if there is no change when it's moved then the contacts are probably bad in the timer. It's likely not sending power to the compressor.


Post# 1030229 , Reply# 15   4/18/2019 at 18:30 (412 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Thanks David.

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Would a new,  generic defrost timer work or would I need to find a NOS replacement?


Post# 1030232 , Reply# 16   4/18/2019 at 19:34 (412 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Some shots of the defrost timer and freezer fan.

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Defrost timer:

 

ff8

ff7

 

There are aftermarket defrost timers that can work.

 

Freezer fan:

 

ff6

ff5

 

John (combo52) suggested to lubricate the shaft with Turbine oil.


Post# 1030233 , Reply# 17   4/18/2019 at 19:43 (412 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Looks like I found the correct timer...

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CLICK HERE TO GO TO Ultramatic's LINK on eBay

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Post# 1030261 , Reply# 18   4/19/2019 at 10:58 (411 days old) by Northwesty (Renton, WA)        
it

That old timer really is toast I would drill out those rivets and take a look inside. You might be able to tweak and clean it.

Post# 1030268 , Reply# 19   4/19/2019 at 12:43 (411 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
It's an idea Brian...

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However, John feels the defrost timer is most likely good. So I'm moving on to the compressor and the starter relay. Now where did I put that multimeter?


Post# 1030280 , Reply# 20   4/19/2019 at 14:40 (411 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Looks like the freezer evaporator fan is a goner. I lubricated it with a couple of drops of Turbine oil and it loosed it up considerably. However, when I connected it directly, all it did was hum, it would not even attempt to turn.

 

ff12

ff11


Post# 1030301 , Reply# 21   4/19/2019 at 19:30 (411 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
General Electric Evaporator Motor Mod. WR60X60

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I've found an NOS replacement evaporator motor for $59.95 and a modern replacement for $19.95.


Post# 1030308 , Reply# 22   4/19/2019 at 21:13 (411 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Well it's over. This refrigerator is too tall to fit under my kitchen wall cabinets, by an inch. I can't replace the cabinets so this was all for naught. Thank God I didn't buy parts. I still have a few options though. I'll keep you all posted.


Post# 1030330 , Reply# 23   4/20/2019 at 08:46 (410 days old) by spacepig (Floridas Emerald Coast)        

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Oh no! I'm so sorry to hear this Louis, especially after all of the time, energy, and resources you put into getting it.

Post# 1030332 , Reply# 24   4/20/2019 at 08:55 (410 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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I know Jeannine. I had so much going on that week, and I figured it would fit. Width wise I was spot on, but height wise missed it. Anyway, depending how the compressor checks out later today I'll decide what to do next. If there is a silver lining, at least these appliances were saved.


Post# 1030371 , Reply# 25   4/20/2019 at 20:09 (410 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Some good news...

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According to the multimeter, the compressor checked out OK. The starter relay wires were in bad shape. They literally crumbled. Unknown if there was a break before I pulled it off but I am willing to bet there was. If the refrigerator is salvageable, there is a way I can keep it, at least for the time being. I can remove my current G.E. refrigerator from the utility closet, put that in the kitchen, and place the Newport G.E. in the utility closet. No problem with room there. Next stop a starter relay and some new wiring.




This post was last edited 04/20/2019 at 21:34
Post# 1030382 , Reply# 26   4/20/2019 at 21:32 (410 days old) by spacepig (Floridas Emerald Coast)        

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Louis, glad to hear that there's still some hope for you and this fridge. Thanks for keeping us posted.

Post# 1030578 , Reply# 27   4/22/2019 at 19:35 (408 days old) by mtn1584 (USA)        
Where is your Maytag 806?

I have been waiting for pictures for a long time!
Is it finished? If not what are you using?
Mike


Post# 1030581 , Reply# 28   4/22/2019 at 19:52 (408 days old) by ken (Ulster Hgts, NY)        

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This might seem obvious but do you have the feet adjusted all the way in? If not might give the extra space you need to fit under the cabinets.

Post# 1030585 , Reply# 29   4/22/2019 at 21:24 (408 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Even with the feet off it is still too tall Ken.  Just ordered a new starter/relay. Hopefully the G.E. will be in service by this weekend. I desperately need a second refrigerator. My current one is packed.

 

Mike, I still have to remove the inner tub. Eventually I will get to it. I'm currently using a compact Magic Chef washer.


Post# 1030939 , Reply# 30   4/27/2019 at 01:10 (404 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Success!

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The compressor is running! I used the ubiquitous Supco 3 'n 1  starter/relay. Amp draw is around 4.0. Normal draw should be 5.6. I imagine the amp draw is lower because only the relay is connected to the compressor.

 

c2

c1


Post# 1030940 , Reply# 31   4/27/2019 at 01:26 (404 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Now...

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Can someone tell me what is this? It was located right next to the old starter/relay. One of the broken leads goes to the compressor fan.

 

c6

 

And this? Some sort of pig tail? The bottom 2 wires are the power cord.

 

c7

 

I need to splice in some new wiring, but before I cut, I need to know what is what.

 

 


Post# 1030984 , Reply# 32   4/27/2019 at 16:36 (403 days old) by spacepig (Floridas Emerald Coast)        

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Louis, thanks for keeping us updated on your fridge. Glad to hear you were able to get the compressor running. Jeannine

Post# 1030996 , Reply# 33   4/27/2019 at 18:08 (403 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Thanks Jeannine!

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I am sorting out the final wiring now.


Post# 1030997 , Reply# 34   4/27/2019 at 18:09 (403 days old) by turbokinetic (Northport, Alabama USA)        

Hi Louis! That's great news. That round thing with the broken terminal looks like the motor's overload breaker. The Supco device has its own breaker in it so that one will not be necessary.

Is that "pigtail" piece what broke off the overload breaker?


Post# 1030999 , Reply# 35   4/27/2019 at 18:21 (403 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Because I am using the 3'n1, I must find out where certain wires will go now.

 

This is the secondary relay that was located right next to the plug-in relay on the compressor: The numbers are to keep track of what wire went where originally.

 

c4

 

Notice tab #2 on relay seemed to have broken off. However I cannot find a wire that would had gone there.

 

#1 and  #2 wires go to the power cord.

 

b1

 

b2

b3

 

 

 

 


Post# 1031002 , Reply# 36   4/27/2019 at 18:36 (403 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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And here is the plugin relay that was substituted with the 3 'n 1:

 

Notice #3 wire tab has broken off as well.

a1

 

#3 wire is the pigtail that comes off the power cord.

a4

 

UPDATE: John (Combo52) has informed me there never was a #3 tab on the relay. So where would the #3 wire go to?

 

 

#4 wire goes to the condenser fan.

a5

 

Other images of the plugin relay.

a2

a3


Post# 1031003 , Reply# 37   4/27/2019 at 18:41 (403 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Hi Dave! I believe the #3 wire snapped off the plugin relay. So the wires that are no longer necessary for the overload relay, do I just cap them? There are a lot of bare wires where the insulation had just crumbled off. I've never seen such bad wiring.


Post# 1031057 , Reply# 38   4/28/2019 at 05:41 (402 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
There Is Hope

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Regarding reply #30, 4 amps is about right, 5 or 6 would be too high except under extreme operating conditions.

 

Plug the ref in and let the compressor run for a while and see if it starts to cool on the freezers evaporator and the condenser should get pretty or even hot to the touch as well, if so you have a good chance it still has a decent R-12 charge in it.

 

John


Post# 1031062 , Reply# 39   4/28/2019 at 06:43 (402 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Thanks John!

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Now where do I connect the condenser fan's #4 wire?


Post# 1031177 , Reply# 40   4/29/2019 at 05:00 (401 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Well, good news and bad news...

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First the good news. It's cooling like nobodies business!

 

The bad news, the condenser fan will not come on.

 

I capped two wires that originally went to the overload relay. I am curious, what is the white arrow pointing to? One of the capped wires originated from there.

q1

 


Post# 1031178 , Reply# 41   4/29/2019 at 05:04 (401 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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And the dead fan.  It was removed, cleaned and oiled. I hooked it up directly, and it tested fine. Placement of the starter relay and wiring is only temporary.

 

q2


Post# 1031179 , Reply# 42   4/29/2019 at 05:15 (401 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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I ran the fridge (sans condenser fan) for about 20 minutes. The compressor was getting noisier and you can smell a hot odor, not burning, but when something is getting too hot. Temperature in the refrigerator section dropped from 78F to 60F in that time period. There is no evaporator fan in the freezer section since I am still waiting for a replacement motor (supposedly arriving today). Regardless the freezer was getting cold. Amp usage hovered around 4.6. If anything, it seems the refrigerator still has a good charge in it.




This post was last edited 04/29/2019 at 09:42
Post# 1031286 , Reply# 43   4/29/2019 at 21:24 (401 days old) by turbokinetic (Northport, Alabama USA)        

Hey that valve with the arrow appears to be the hot-gas defrost valve. It is similar to a reversing valve on a heat-pump where it sends pressurized refrigerant in the reverse direction, to the evaporator, to melt the frost.

These compressors are known for wearing out, so please give it some cooling air. These really aren't meant to run for any amount of time w/o a fan.

EDIT: As for the hot smell, the Supco start device uses a heat-operated starting circuit cut-out device. It is a solid-state device made of a ceramic material which becomes less conductive when hot. The current passing through it heats it up, and after a predetermined amount of time, it becomes effectively an open circuit. The device stays extremely hot while the compressor is running, and may smell a little when new. It's called a PTC thermistor, by the way.


Post# 1031330 , Reply# 44   4/30/2019 at 08:45 (400 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Hey Dave! Thanks for your input. So the hot gas defrost valve had a wire going to a relay that has now been removed (because of the 3'n1). Is it OK to leave that wire capped? Or does it need to be connected somewhere else?


Post# 1031340 , Reply# 45   4/30/2019 at 10:21 (400 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Hot Gas Defrost valve Wiring

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Hi Louis, this part still must be wired to the refs wiring harness for he ref to fully work properly

At this point try to get a wiring diagram for this ref, this will help a lot.

John


Post# 1031347 , Reply# 46   4/30/2019 at 12:05 (400 days old) by kenwashesmonday (Haledon, NJ)        

I don't believe it's been mentioned that, once you get the condenser fan running, it's very important to replace the cardboard rear cover or it will overheat.


Post# 1031351 , Reply# 47   4/30/2019 at 12:35 (400 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Hi John! Yeah I was afraid of that. Even though there is one wire (blue) that is connected. running through the back of the refrigerator. I sorta' suspected that other wire needed to be placed as well. Now, to find a wiring diagram for this model. I suspect this will be a daunting task.


Post# 1031352 , Reply# 48   4/30/2019 at 12:38 (400 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Hi Ken!

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Thanks! I am aware of the importance of putting back the cover. The cover helps keep the airflow towards the compressor and condenser.


Post# 1031370 , Reply# 49   4/30/2019 at 16:23 (400 days old) by Searsbest (Attleboro, Ma)        
GE Bottom mount

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Louis, it was an absolute pleasure to help you rescue those appliances! Glad to see that refrigerator come back to life!

Post# 1031419 , Reply# 50   4/30/2019 at 21:01 (400 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Thanks Scott!

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I owe it all to you buddy!


Post# 1031524 , Reply# 51   5/2/2019 at 00:27 (399 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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The condenser fan is working (loose connection, DOH!).

 

f1

 

In addition, the NOS freezer evaporator fan has been installed and working.

 

I covered up the back, and it's cooling. We'll see where we are in awhile.

 

Here's a close-up of the hot gas defrost valve. No luck in finding a wiring schematic for this model so far. The wire that was capped went to the overload relay.

 

f2


Post# 1031527 , Reply# 52   5/2/2019 at 01:32 (399 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
After an hour of operation...

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Temperature in refrigerator section has dropped to 38F. Freezer is ice cold. As I feared, the compressor has not cycled off yet. I really need to resolve the the hot gas defrost valve issue.

 

Anyone have any idea where that wire would go?

 

Or perhaps it is the defrost timer?




This post was last edited 05/02/2019 at 05:46
Post# 1031529 , Reply# 53   5/2/2019 at 02:02 (399 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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OK, I raised the thermostats in the refrigerator and freezer sections. The evaporator fans turned off. Temp in refrigerator section now reads 44F. However the condenser fan is still on, and I think the compressor is still running. AMP. draw is 4.1. 


Post# 1031533 , Reply# 54   5/2/2019 at 05:35 (398 days old) by turbokinetic (Northport, Alabama USA)        

In agreement with John, it sounds like a wiring diagram is in order for you!

Probably the broken wire to the defrost valve was a neutral connection.

I believe that the defrost system was actuated by a timer and cycled off by temperature. If the defrost valve never shifts over, the compressor will keep running. This is because the temperature switch to end the defrost cycle will never change state and allow the timer to move past defrost.

If the fans in the cabinet are both stopped that would possibly indicate this is your issue.

Again hopefully a wiring diagram can be found.

I love the style of this one, just don't have experience with anything this "new" LOL!


Post# 1031534 , Reply# 55   5/2/2019 at 06:02 (398 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Hi Dave!

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What if I reconnected that capped wire to the original overload relay?

 

G.E. Guardette 3ARG1C28

w1

w2

w3


Post# 1031757 , Reply# 56   5/4/2019 at 05:18 (396 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Well I reconnected the wires to the Guardet overload relay (using new wires), annnd nothing. Compressor and condenser fan do not cycle off. Still cooling fine, evaporator fans cycle on and off. Bad overload relay? Something else?


Post# 1031766 , Reply# 57   5/4/2019 at 08:21 (396 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Oh boy!

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It just keeps getting better and better. Both evaporator fans have stopped working. Refrigerator temp at 60F and rising. Freezer still cold. Ice frozen solid, not melting. Compressor and condenser fan are still on. AMP. draw is 4.0.


Post# 1031805 , Reply# 58   5/4/2019 at 17:17 (396 days old) by turbokinetic (Northport, Alabama USA)        

So frustrating!

Hope a wiring diagram can be found!


Post# 1031819 , Reply# 59   5/4/2019 at 19:43 (396 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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John suggested something is miswired with the 3 'n 1. Here we go again. How I wish I could find the schismatic.


Post# 1031824 , Reply# 60   5/4/2019 at 20:57 (396 days old) by spacepig (Floridas Emerald Coast)        
Louis,

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What age of refrigerator do you think would be comparable? I have a service manual for a '61, and I can check behind my '65 to see if there is a schematic.

Jeannine


Post# 1031826 , Reply# 61   5/4/2019 at 21:09 (396 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Hi Jennine. I would imagine the 1965 is the closest to mine if you have it. I now believe mine is a 1968 model. Judging from the amount of bare/broken wiring I found, I'd say this refrigerator has been out of service for many years, which may explain why it's so pristine. So far, every time I put in my model number I have gotten nothing.


Post# 1031829 , Reply# 62   5/4/2019 at 21:25 (396 days old) by spacepig (Floridas Emerald Coast)        

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Louis, I don't think there's anything on the back of the '65, but I can look tomorrow. I also have a '64 Americana, and I'll check it, too. Jeannine

Post# 1031832 , Reply# 63   5/4/2019 at 23:24 (396 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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It's OK Jeannine. No worries. But you did give me an idea to look at schismatics of other G.E. 's. 


Post# 1031864 , Reply# 64   5/5/2019 at 11:11 (395 days old) by spacepig (Floridas Emerald Coast)        

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Hi Louis, Unfortunately, I have not had much luck. Neither of the Americanas have a wiring diagram on the back, nor did the 1965. I did attach pictures from the 1961 manual for model number TC-469V which is top fridge with swing out shelves and bottom freezer, although it may be too old to be similar. These are just the diagrams, there are a few other pages about electrical parts that I can scan for you. I've also attached pictures of the compressor from one of the Americanas, and also of the 1965 Coppertone when we had the back off to blow out the dust before installing it in the house. Not sure if any of this is helpful.

  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 7         View Full Size
Post# 1031879 , Reply# 65   5/5/2019 at 15:07 (395 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Wiring Diagrams For GE FG Hot Gas Defrost Ref

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Thanks Jeannine, Your 61 diagram is the one needed except the compressor is the older one that has four terminals instead of three like Louie's, so the wiring between the older style relay and condenser fan motor are different, but that does not matter as Louie is using the newer 3 in 1 relay.

 

John


Post# 1031921 , Reply# 66   5/6/2019 at 03:22 (394 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Jeannine, THANK YOU!

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I already caught where I made a mistake with a wire (hot gas defroster). I'll keep you all posted!


Post# 1038386 , Reply# 67   7/16/2019 at 02:58 (323 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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A quickie. It's a 19 C model (18.8C). Date of manufacture was June, 1965 not January, 1969. (by 1968, models had wheels and wood tone door handles). 


Post# 1039887 , Reply# 68   7/29/2019 at 17:26 (310 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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OK, so I did a tracing of the wiring. Some of the wiring goes to places deep inside the refrigerator. The brown wire is still a mystery.

 

1965 General Electric Wiring


Post# 1039888 , Reply# 69   7/29/2019 at 17:28 (310 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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1965 General Electric Refrigerator


Post# 1039890 , Reply# 70   7/29/2019 at 18:19 (310 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Some detailed pictures:

 

ge1

 

GE2

 

GE3

 

GE4

 

GE5

 

GE6

 

GE7


Post# 1039892 , Reply# 71   7/29/2019 at 18:24 (310 days old) by turbokinetic (Northport, Alabama USA)        
Maybe onto something....

Louis, it seems that the wiring diagrams are very similar for the defrost and compressor control on most of these. Please see this drawing.

It seems the brown wire is supposed to be the Line side of the power cord, only. It needs to go to the power cord but not be tied together with anything else.

The white (ivory) wire was part of the original 3-wire condenser fan circuit which you will not use. Isolate it.

Remove all the connections in the compressor compartment except the single wire to the defrost coil.

Connect the power cord line side to the Brown wire.

From the Orange wire coming out of the cabinet, connect the following things together:
-Orange wire from cabinet
-One of the Supco power input wires.
-One of the fan motor wires.
-Power cord Neutral side.

From the Black wire coming out of the cabinet, connect the following things together:
-Black wire coming out of the cabinet.
-Remaining Supco power input wire.
-Remaining fan motor wire.
-Remaining Defrost coil wire.



  View Full Size
Post# 1039895 , Reply# 72   7/29/2019 at 18:50 (310 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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General overview:

 

Overview

 

 


Post# 1039896 , Reply# 73   7/29/2019 at 18:50 (310 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Hi David. So the line wire is the HOT wire correct?


Post# 1039899 , Reply# 74   7/29/2019 at 19:09 (310 days old) by turbokinetic (Northport, Alabama USA)        

Yes, I probably meant to type "live" there. Got a few things going on at same time and typing too fast.

If you have a 3-wire grounded cord, it is the black wire. If it's a two-wire polarized cord, it's the smooth wire, going to the "smaller" pin on the plug.

The Neutral is the White wire on a 3-wire cord; or for a 2-wire cord, the grooved wire, going to the larger pin on the plug.

It won't really matter much on this one because the original cord was non-polarized.


Post# 1039909 , Reply# 75   7/29/2019 at 20:59 (310 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Thanks a million David.

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Well, it's all connected. All fans are running and it's beginning to cool. Let's see in a few hours. Fingers crossed.


Post# 1039917 , Reply# 76   7/29/2019 at 22:10 (310 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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46F so far in the refrigerator section. Freezer is COLD. Amp. draw is hovering around 4.9.


Post# 1039949 , Reply# 77   7/30/2019 at 04:37 (309 days old) by turbokinetic (Northport, Alabama USA)        
Hopeful...

.... that this morning brings a really good outcome!

Post# 1039950 , Reply# 78   7/30/2019 at 04:40 (309 days old) by turbokinetic (Northport, Alabama USA)        
One thing I noticed....

... in the pictures you posted; did you remove the insulation from the lower part of the fridge under the rear cover? If that was missing to start with, you need to replace it with more fiberglass padding. If that space is open without insulation there will be a good chance for frost or moisture buildup in there; plus a bad loss of efficiency.

Post# 1039952 , Reply# 79   7/30/2019 at 05:26 (309 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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It's working beautifully. Refrigerator temperature is 37F @ #5 on the thermostat. Freezer ice trays have all set and it's cycling correctly. Did I mention it's whisper quiet?

 

David, I can't thank you enough. Your expertise saved yet another vintage refrigerator. Man, you're on a roll!

 

I also want to thank wholeheartedly John (Combo52), for all his advice and help.

 

A big thank you to Jeannine for the schematics.  And thanks everyone for their advice and encouragement.  Next stop, COSTCO!

 

BTW, David, yes, I had removed a large, one piece fiberglass mat from the back of the refrigerator in order to see where the wiring was going. It was far easier to remove than to put back! I'll post a few more pictures of the compressor compartment before I button it up.


Post# 1039957 , Reply# 80   7/30/2019 at 06:22 (309 days old) by turbokinetic (Northport, Alabama USA)        

Glad it's working correctly for you!

The real test will be after a few weeks to see that it's defrosting correctly as well. I believe you have it connected right so that if the defrost control is good, it will work.

John L also got me interested in these fridges, to a degree where I notice threads with folks asking for help with them. Without his info on the defrost control, I would probably not have got John G's fridge fixed; and therefore would not have had the experience to assist you remotely.


Post# 1039958 , Reply# 81   7/30/2019 at 06:26 (309 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        
Yay, Another GE Frost Guard Refrigerator Saved

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Yay Louie and David, you got it going, A big Thank You to David who has more patience than I do, It is often harder for me to explain something to some one else. I knew once you got the compressor to run with the 3-in-1 relay that this ref would be OK, by this time period these GE refs were pretty bulletproof.

 

As David suggested put all insulation back and be sure the black metal rear cover is sealed perfectly to the cabinet, even tiny air leaks will cause problems in time with frost and moisture in the insulation. Probably fresh new soft Permagum is the best choice.

 

John L.


Post# 1039959 , Reply# 82   7/30/2019 at 06:36 (309 days old) by spacepig (Floridas Emerald Coast)        
Louis,

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So glad that it appears to be up and running as it should be. Fingers crossed that it will go on to live a long life.

This has also reaffirmed for me that I need to get at least a couple of my guys up to David, or convince him that he needs an all expenses paid trip to Florida for a few days--lol.


Post# 1039962 , Reply# 83   7/30/2019 at 06:53 (309 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Hey thanks for the suggestion of Permagum John. I was wondering what I was going to use to reseal the back panel.


Post# 1040219 , Reply# 84   7/31/2019 at 20:45 (308 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Final reassembly of rear panels.

 

GE55

 

Yes, that is a trash bag. Because the rear panel was not sealed properly, the fiberglass insulation was damp. After drying it out, as a extra measure, I added the plastic to protect the insulation. As John suggested, I applied Permagum to seal the rear panel tightly againt the refrigerator back.

GE66

GE77

 

Supco 3 and 1 starter relay in it's permanent location, wiring tidied up.

GE33

GE44

 

All buttoned up.

GE@@

GE11


Post# 1040236 , Reply# 85   8/1/2019 at 04:56 (307 days old) by turbokinetic (Northport, Alabama USA)        

Awe yeah that looks very good! The new permagum really will help minimize the frost buildup, as well!

Post# 1040276 , Reply# 86   8/1/2019 at 10:51 (307 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Freezer is registering 40F. Ice is melting. It was fine this morning. I hear it clicking, as like starting then stopping. The refrigerator section seems to be OK. Defrost timer? Low refrigerant? Dying compressor? Don't quit on me now Spacemaker.


Post# 1040278 , Reply# 87   8/1/2019 at 11:12 (307 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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I spoke with David, seems like I got the relay in a starting loop by not waiting 5 minutes to plug in the refrigerator again. I'm unplugging it now and will wait 10 minutes in order for it to reset. If that doesn't work, I'll need to reorder another 3'n1.


Post# 1040329 , Reply# 88   8/1/2019 at 18:47 (307 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Bummer.

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No dice. The 3n'1 has failed. Just ordered a new one.


Post# 1040368 , Reply# 89   8/2/2019 at 04:40 (306 days old) by turbokinetic (Northport, Alabama USA)        
Frustrating!

These 3-in-1 devices and other Supco start devices are supposed to be equipped with a specially calibrated overload breaker. It is designed to have a long reset time. If the overload trips, it should stay off for at least 5 minutes. This is to allow for the start device to reset; and for pressure to equalize in the compressor. If it tries to restart too soon, it will not be able to start. Louis's overload was cycling off and on every few seconds and not allowing any time to reset.

Post# 1040581 , Reply# 90   8/3/2019 at 21:45 (305 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Take two...

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New Supco 3n'1 installed. Started up fine. Amp draw is a steady 4.7. We'll see in a few hours.

 

GENERAL ELECTRIC Space Maker


Post# 1040617 , Reply# 91   8/4/2019 at 07:55 (304 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Currently temperature in refrigerator section is 31F @ the #7 setting. Ice in the freezer is rock solid. It is cycling normally. So far so good.

 

General Electric Test


Post# 1040618 , Reply# 92   8/4/2019 at 08:09 (304 days old) by ozzie908 (Lincoln UK)        
I have to ask

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How its grounded on a 2 core flex?

Is it on a separate wire or just not grounded?

Austin


Post# 1040622 , Reply# 93   8/4/2019 at 08:30 (304 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        

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The 3-in-1 relay is in a plastic housing and does not require grounding, the compressor is grounded along with the rest of the refs cabinet.

 

Hi Louie, I am concerned about the amp draw, is 4.7 for the entire ref or just the compressor ?, 4.7 is pretty high for even this old compressor.

 

John L.


Post# 1040631 , Reply# 94   8/4/2019 at 08:46 (304 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Hi John. It's for the entire refrigerator when the compressor is on. According to the tag, the refrigerator is rated for 5.8 amp draw.


Post# 1040650 , Reply# 95   8/4/2019 at 11:33 (304 days old) by turbokinetic (Northport, Alabama USA)        

Glad that the new start device solved the problem. I have a feeling the original could have been a knock-off.

Post# 1040670 , Reply# 96   8/4/2019 at 14:47 (304 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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I read somewhere that Amazon was having issues with vendors selling knockoffs. Nevertheless I sent a complaint about the failed starter-relay and gave it a bad review.


Post# 1040718 , Reply# 97   8/4/2019 at 20:49 (304 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        
Still working flawlessly...

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So I decided to give the interior a deep clean. However, I am having trouble removing the glass shelf over the vegetable bins. I see no screws or tabs. Any suggestions?

 

General Electric Drawers


Post# 1040722 , Reply# 98   8/4/2019 at 21:10 (304 days old) by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        

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Removing crisper cover etc

 

It just pulls out, lifts up etc, they often get stuck with years of sticky spills etc, poor lots of really warm water all around the cover and this should loosen it up.

 

John L.


Post# 1040724 , Reply# 99   8/4/2019 at 21:25 (304 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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Right as usual John. Thanks!

 

General Electric drawer removal


Post# 1040727 , Reply# 100   8/4/2019 at 22:20 (304 days old) by Ultramatic (New York City)        

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