Thread Number: 79207  /  Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Kenmore/whirlpool 28102 leaking
[Down to Last]

Cool Washer Stuff on Amazon:
scroll >>> for more items
Post# 1031300   4/30/2019 at 00:30 by dartman (Portland Oregon)        

Well guys I finally tore down the 28102 I got in 2014 because the tub bearings were shot and very noisy and it finally started leaking. I got the full new shaft, bearings, and install tool. I started tearing it down Saturday, had to do other things and finished it Sunday. I am pretty sure both bearings were fully seated and then I tried to push in the rubber seal with grease on the inside and silicone on the outside. I couldn't get it to fully seat flush but it went as far as I could get it and was just over the outer shiny metal ring at the upper half of the shaft. Everything is spinning smooth and quiet now but I'm getting so far minor dripping from the outer cover for the motor with the magnets in it. Did I miss something or or is there a trick to getting the seal seated. I used the 3 inch pipe piece for shoving it down flush and even popped it with a shot dead blow hammer but it was still up maybe a quarter inch and I couldn't get it better but the silicone was oozing out and all that. So do these need to break in and seal or am I going to have to tear at least the drum out and try a new seal or tear it completely back down again and start over. I watched a few bearing replacement videos and tried to make sure everything went back like it came out and no left over parts. The old shaft was pretty nasty and beat up and especially the lower bearing was super crunchy. It hadn't appeared to be leaking before but was very dirty underneath and had finally leaked near the left corner.
Thanks for any help, Terry.

Post# 1031429 , Reply# 1   4/30/2019 at 22:59 by dartman (Portland Oregon)        
Top load HE

I don't think I made it clear this is one of the Whirlpool Maytag direct drive units known for early tub bearing failures due to moisture making its way down the shaft and into the bearings till they rust up and fail. I got it in 2014 and by about 2016 17 it started getting slightly noisy but never appeared to leak.

Post# 1031462 , Reply# 2   5/1/2019 at 11:14 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
I have a Maytag/Bravos sibling (serial 2011) waiting a few years for a bearing job.  It's partially disassembled but haven't worked-up the gumption to finish.  I used the board-and-jack method to handle the stuck basket, haven't had that issue with any of the F&P units I've refurbed.  None of the F&Ps -- circa 1999, 2004, 2005, 2008, and 2009 -- have as-yet evidenced bad bearings.

Post# 1031497 , Reply# 3   5/1/2019 at 19:36 by dartman (Portland Oregon)        

It mostly dripped a few drops as we ran a high water wash. Today we are running normal loads with a low drip pan under it and it's so far completely dry. I was like you, didn't really want to tear it completely down as it's a lot more involved then I'm used too. I don't think any of our old school direct drive whirlpool washers ever lost a bearing or leaked from the tub shaft even when they were banging badly from a worn transmission. I'm hoping maybe the seal had to wear and seat in now that it hasn't leaked for a few loads. I will say when they're working right they're dead quiet almost and everything is clean. If you've got the bearing install tool it's not as bad as it seems to tear it down and replace everything. I just don't know why the seal didn't go flush into the tub. Maybe something didn't fully seat or got out of place but it's not making any horrible mechanical noises so I think if it's decided to stop leaking it's good to go. I did have to do the jack and a 2x4 trick too but it sure worked slick. I would suggest just pulling the whole top and control panel off as it makes everything easier and safer. I was trying to make sure the door was taped closed and used a couple of bungee cords to hold it up and the whole top still flopped over on me. Luckily it didn't break the glass or damage the mounts beyond repair so I decided to just take it off and problem solved. You have to unplug a few harness plugs and like that then you can remove the whole thing.

Post# 1031544 , Reply# 4   5/2/2019 at 07:39 by combo52 (Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture

Hi Terry, I am glad it seems to be working now,


I could not comment or help with your orignal post because you did not include a good model #


PLEASE everyone if you are asking questions about a machine you are working on include a full model # off the tag on the appliance, if this is not possible a description of the appliance with approximate age helps and pictures are also wonderful.



Post# 1031642 , Reply# 5   5/3/2019 at 01:21 by dartman (Portland Oregon)        

Well, she ran another full water load and it appeared to leave a few dirty dried up drops on the drip pan but it was dry underneath when I checked after work. It's usable and mostly doesn't leak now and at least I have the tools now so I can replace the seal and bearings easily enough if it needs it again and just the bearings and seal is way cheaper then the whole package with the tool which still was very reasonable considering. Kinda wonder if a little leftover water was trapped somewhere in the tub I couldn't see that got flung out after it ran a while on the first run, or if the seal needs to seat a bit before it actually does it's job. I realized after I posted that all I gave was the model no. and it's old enough now most wouldn't know what type of washer it was so I added the description later but I can put in the serial and all that if needed. I also updated my original post about the noise starting in 2017 when a few here remembered the machine and had put bearings in them before but I waited till now to replace the parts.

Post# 1031648 , Reply# 6   5/3/2019 at 03:09 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
28102 is a partial model number ... actually more of a catalog number or stock number.

The full model is (presumably) 110.28102310

A partial entry of a model number typically works as a wild-card search at  It usually needs to start from the correct beginning of the model but a few characters in the middle may also work.  In this case it needs the leading 110. or at minimum 110.281 which brings up three models one of which is correct.  By your reference that it's a Whirlpool/Kenmore, anyone who knows Kenmore model coding would know the leading characters are 110.

Post# 1031752 , Reply# 7   5/4/2019 at 00:39 by dartman (Portland Oregon)        

yeah, it's 110 etc. It's on the lid and a few other places but when I got it as a refurb back in 2014 many users here had one or were aware of it just by the top load HE 28102 model. Too bad the seal and bearing design are so fragile as otherwise it's a great machine and has saved us a lot on our water bill and also cut down the amount of loads we had to run with the 4.5 cf tub. It also spins the clothes really fairly dry which cut down quite a bit on the next year 8cf Kenmore dryer dry time we matched it up with eventually.

Post# 1032923 , Reply# 8   5/18/2019 at 00:45 by dartman (Portland Oregon)        
Kit bit the dust

Well got home early this week and it was squeaking badly from around the shaft and was leaking enough to leave a few small puddles, plus very faint but obvious bearing noise already so going to have to replace the bearings yet again.
Obviously the seal needed to be seated all the way flush and the eBay generic all in one kit had crap Chinese bearings and seal. At least the bearing install tool is nice so I won't need that again.
I just ordered a WHIRLPOOL OEM shaft and bearing kit shipped for 58 bucks and I get to do it yet again but at least this time it will be factory parts and the sealant and lube they used as the old setup made horrible noises for a few years but didn't leak till just before I finally threw in the kit I had bought. So for anyone considering doing this repair, make sure to get the genuine Whirlpool kit or you might be redoing it a lot sooner then you should. The OEM kit should be no more then about 90 bucks, the bearing tool can be found very cheap and even the Chinese ones should be OK. You can buy the generic kits as low as 30 bucks but with all the effort to tear one of these down I now realize it wasn't worth the gamble as I didn't even get two weeks out of mine.

Post# 1033518 , Reply# 9   5/24/2019 at 01:12 by dartman (Portland Oregon)        
New oem whirlpool parts here tomorrow

Well got notification that my new Whirlpool rebuild kit will be here tomorrow 5/24 so soon will have to tear it back down and see what exactly failed and wasn't in place like it should have been. Funny thing is the weird shaft squeal went away again and the leak went back to minor drip amounts. I did pull the wash plate and nothing obviously stuck or damaged so possibly something got under the inner tub and wrapped up in the seal somehow and has come back loose and got spit out. I'm sure the bearings are already toast and will be interesting to see what the shaft, seal, and bearings look like in this short time. At least I saved the old parts so I can compare and make sure everything is lined up and exactly like what it had other than hopefully a improved rubber seal.

Post# 1033519 , Reply# 10   5/24/2019 at 03:12 by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
Pictures / documentation?

Forum Index:       Other Forums:                      

Comes to the Rescue!

The Discuss-o-Mat has stopped, buzzer is sounding!!!
If you would like to reply to this thread please log-in...

Discuss-O-MAT Log-In

New Members
Click Here To Sign Up.

Discuss-o-Mat Forums
Vintage Brochures, Service and Owners Manuals
Fun Vintage Washer Ephemera
See It Wash!
Video Downloads
Audio Downloads
Picture of the Day
Patent of the Day
Photos of our Collections
The Old Aberdeen Farm
Vintage Service Manuals
Vintage washer/dryer/dishwasher to sell?
Technical/service questions?
Looking for Parts?
Website related questions?
Digital Millennium Copyright Act Policy
Our Privacy Policy