Thread Number: 79296  /  Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Front-Load Washers: A triumphant return and one still among the missing.
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Post# 1032225   5/9/2019 at 14:48 (1,757 days old) by joeekaitis (Rialto, California, USA)        

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Speed Queen home front loaders are back, with 1 model in 2 control panel configurations:

Frigidaire front loaders, whereabouts unknown:

Post# 1032256 , Reply# 1   5/9/2019 at 23:10 (1,757 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

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my only curiosity for the FL SQ....are they now available for the door to be ordered with a left hand or right hand swing?

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Post# 1032273 , Reply# 2   5/10/2019 at 06:33 (1,756 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Looking at webpage linked above

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It does appear there are two models; left and right hinged door.

Still no heater and cannot understand why for the life of me Alliance keeps resisting. Have used their commercial/laundromat washers and suppose results were good enough. But then again wouldn't put really soiled/stained wash in those machines where one wanted a truly "hot" wash.

Post# 1032276 , Reply# 3   5/10/2019 at 07:29 (1,756 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Current SQ FL Washers

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The stand alone models are now coming with the silly left hinged door [ it is silly how a less convenient design wins out in a market place at times ] You can order them with the more convenient RH door if you want.


As to why no heater I think they feel that few people want one, They were available 10 years ago and I only know of ONE AW member that actually ordered one. [ there are also three of us that have them because we got a discontinued model that had it ] But for me I almost never use it.


With today's detergents there is simply little or no need to heat things to 140 F or higher Great cleaning can happen at 120 F or even lower temperatures, and even 190F does not sanitize or whiten as well as a little LCB.


John L.

Post# 1032323 , Reply# 4   5/10/2019 at 16:29 (1,756 days old) by Brisnat81 (Brisbane Australia)        

John, I think the question is how do you get a 120f wash, when that’s the inlet water temp.

Here the tank is maintained at 140 but the water is tempered to 120f. If you apply that to a cold drum your never going to get close to 120. My understanding is that there is a push in the US to maintain tank temps at around 120as well.

My Miele’s are hot and cold fill, if I program a 140 wash, it primes the sump with cold and then filled exclusively with hot at 120. When the fill us finished the best temp I’ve been able to record is about 95f and then it heats to bring the temp back up.

How do you automatically get a hot wash at 120 if that’s the inlet temp and the target temp?



Post# 1032325 , Reply# 5   5/10/2019 at 17:05 (1,756 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa)        

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>> John, I think the question is how do you get a 120f wash, when that’s the inlet water temp.
>> My understanding is that there is a push in the US to maintain tank temps at around 120as well.

^^ Absolutely this, especially if your washer is a HE model, and is a distance away from the water heater.

The current push in the USA is strongly for below 120F on residential water heaters, especially for households with young children, due to the scalding risks of higher temperatures.

This is in contrast with the prior recommendations, to set water heaters to temperatures above 140F, to kill bacteria such as Legionella. I remember as a kid, families also routinely set their water heater temperatures quite high so that the last family member didn't have as cold of a shower in the morning.

Post# 1032328 , Reply# 6   5/10/2019 at 17:52 (1,756 days old) by peteski50 (New York)        
Speed Queen!

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On the website it displays a cycle named (Sanatize with Oxi) - I had assumed that meant they were adding the heater. If not I wonder what this cycle does. I checked the instruction manual and it is not updated to this newer model!
Can anyone add input?

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Post# 1032331 , Reply# 7   5/10/2019 at 18:36 (1,756 days old) by stricklybojack (South Hams Devon UK)        

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GE has the same feature described here...seems no on board heating as in coming water temp must be at least 120 degrees. See links:

CLICK HERE TO GO TO stricklybojack's LINK

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Post# 1032336 , Reply# 8   5/10/2019 at 19:55 (1,756 days old) by appnut (TX)        

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I'm sorry but I don't buy it at all.  And I bet our European bretheren won't either.  WP's new lower-end models also feature Sanitize with Oxi.  Fortunately the higher end models still heater water to a reasonable temperature.  When I use my Sanitize temperature, I see significantly improved heavy food and other soil stains vs. hot water at 127 to 130 degrees.  All I use is Tide With Bleach powder.  


I refuse to succumb to the cooler wash water temp pressure.  


I wonder what the Allergy Rinse will be.  Maybe actually a warm water rinse and extra water.  

Post# 1032343 , Reply# 9   5/10/2019 at 20:33 (1,756 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
*Oxi* means absolutely nothing

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It is not a registered or otherwise legally controlled word that must imply anything. Thus whatever associations consumers place upon the word is largely from their own minds, and or whatever marketing departments dream up.

Cannot understand why even cheap Asian front loaders offer heaters in their front loaders, yet Alliance still refuses to do so.

Myself and many others loathe chlorine bleach, so please don't say that is an option.

Post# 1032359 , Reply# 10   5/11/2019 at 00:39 (1,756 days old) by logixx (Germany)        
Allergy Rinse

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The Rinse buttons have been renamed. Second Rinse is now called Extra Rinse and Third Rinse is now Allergy Rinse.

Post# 1032365 , Reply# 11   5/11/2019 at 04:37 (1,755 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

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Chlorine bleach is not an option for more delicate whites besides that, chlorine make things yellow in the end. I've tried it a few times, but I didn't like it at all. Oxygen bleach does nothing against dustmites, so you need hot water for those cooties. 140F at least preferably maintained for at temp for an hour. I'm glad every washer overhere has a heater.

Post# 1033603 , Reply# 12   5/25/2019 at 16:07 (1,741 days old) by mrboilwash (Munich,Germany)        

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Is it possible that "Sanitize With Oxi" is just another expression for "Tap Hot" but without interference with energy regulations ?
Have my doubts about its effectiveness but it is still better than just having a dumbed down "hot".
Suppose we might see this more often in the future.

Post# 1033626 , Reply# 13   5/25/2019 at 21:21 (1,741 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

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Chlorine Bleach does not yellow clothing, and if you can't use CB a good clothes dryer easily gets hot enough and kills dust mites, heating a load of clothing and water with electricity to 140F and keeping it there for an hour uses a lot of power,


I dare say the majority of loads of clothing in Europe don't get this treatment, where as the majority of loads of clothing in North America get thrown in a dryer that easily kills dust mites.



Post# 1033641 , Reply# 14   5/26/2019 at 04:13 (1,740 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
"Chlorine Bleach does not yellow clothing...."

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Oh yes it can.

Sodium hypochlorite bleaches outright attack spandex, Lycra, silk, wool, causing among other things yellowing.

For cotton and linen fabrics "chlorine" bleach can cause yellowing via formation of oxycellulose. This occurs when too strong a solution, and or at too high temperatures, and or chlorine bleach remains in textiles that are subsequently subjected to high heat (clothes dryer and or ironing). The reaction is a response to a tendering of the fabric which produces the yellow shade.

Fabrics treated with sodium hypochlorite bleaches also can yellow if exposed to ultraviolet light such as rays from sun.

Chlorine bleach is difficult to near impossible to rinse out of fabrics. Cotton and perhaps linen especially have an affinity for the substance. Hence in commercial/industrial laundries several rinses follow the "bleach" bath. Then a final sour/anti-chlor rinse to ensure all traces of bleach are removed.

OTOH the standard one rinse (most American top loaders) or even several in a front loader may not cut it. If you can still smell chlorine bleach on textiles, it still remains.

There is a reason why European laundries and households long have avoided "eau de Javel", chloride of lime, chlorine bleaches for laundry use. It harms textiles in the long run. Some situations have no choice, such as hospital/healthcare laundries who aren't using thermal disinfection methods. You do find chlorine bleach in say France and other parts of Europe, but in the household cleaning supply section, not laundry.

Post# 1033643 , Reply# 15   5/26/2019 at 04:52 (1,740 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        
Majority of clothing

Though our household is different to many, things have changed over the last 10 or so years since heatpump dryers got quickly mainstream.

Since dryers got quick and efficent, those who do use their dryer use it basicly for everything.
But its is true that does barely ever get close to 140F.

However basicly any machine can happily wash at 140F for 30min to an hour and still use less then 30min of US vented dryer use for quite sizeable loads.
Probably even a boilwash would use less then 1 equivalent load in a US dryer.

But most laundry gets done at either 86F or 104F, yeah.

Post# 1033645 , Reply# 16   5/26/2019 at 05:28 (1,740 days old) by neptunebob (Pittsburgh, PA)        
"Chlorine Bleach does not yellow clothing...."

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Chlorine is hard on swimwear, which is why you have to get new swimwear every year.  It's especially hard on Speedos.

Post# 1033679 , Reply# 17   5/26/2019 at 16:09 (1,740 days old) by dylanmitchell (Southern California)        
SQ FR7 and FF7 vs pre 2017 FL's?

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How's the FRY and FFY vs 2017 and earlier SQ FL's? Is it a match for something like the AFNE9BSP113TW01?

The new SQ TL TR3/TR5/TR7 are very differenct than the 2017 and prior TL's and don't clean. What's the consensus on the FR7/FF7 do they clean and how different are they vs 2017 and prior FL's?

Sanitize with Oxi button annoys me. I prefer Biz and it's like those four lower remote buttons on my Roku I can't reprogram.

Sanitize with Oxi= Oxi + 120-degree water (from a water heater) + a special button. I do hot water + Biz + Soak and don't need a button with a product tie in.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO dylanmitchell's LINK

This post was last edited 05/26/2019 at 16:42
Post# 1033729 , Reply# 18   5/27/2019 at 07:33 (1,739 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Have said this before

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To sanitize a surface or something merely means to reduce harmful pathogens to levels not likely to cause illness. Washing one's hands is a way of sanitation. Merely washing laundry with detergent and water also sanitizes as it removes dirt, germs and whatever from fabrics, they then go down the drain with water. Still alive perhaps but never the less fabric is now "sanitary".

You need hot water temps at or > 140F or even better 160F to remotely really get at germ killing power. Adding oxygen bleach at 120F is likely better than nothing, but still believe this is more marketing hype than anything else.

Post# 1033754 , Reply# 19   5/27/2019 at 19:53 (1,739 days old) by Lorainfurniture (Cleveland )        

All living complex organisms die after 120 degrees. All bacteria/viruses/ etc dies at 165.

As John said , bleach is basically your only shot at truly disinfecting , or just save yourself a lot of trouble and dry on high heat which will totally eradicate everything.

Post# 1033764 , Reply# 20   5/27/2019 at 21:24 (1,739 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        

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Perhaps for domestic use, and certainly in the USA that might prove true, but certainly isn't across the board.

In Europe and or commercial/institutional use state of the art for some time now has been activated oxygen bleaching systems that will deliver same sanitation/disinfecting properties of chlorine bleach, but without any of the drawbacks.


Have mentioned this previously; peracetic acid formed by bleach activator (TAED usually) and oxygen bleach (sodium perborate or percarbonate), and or stand alone solution is a powerful disinfectant, fungicide, etc.... Breweries, poultry plants and others use peracetic acid to disinfect without the cons of using chlorine based products.

Then of course there are the quat based laundry sanitizers used in final rinse. Persil, Dettol, Lysol among other brand names.

Chlorine bleach remains the standard or go to option (at least in United States) because it is cheap, easily accessible and the old reliable standby that most are familiar with, and or can wrap their heads around.

Post# 1033780 , Reply# 21   5/28/2019 at 01:56 (1,739 days old) by foraloysius (Leeuwarden, Friesland, the Netherlands)        

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Well, I'm certainly not going to wash my dark blue cotton satin bed linens with chlorine bleach. And I prefer getting the dustmites out in the wash cycle, not in the dry cycle with my dustmite allergy. I have a heatpump dryer, I can't count on the dryer for getting the dustmites killed. And bed linens smelling like chlorine bleach would be the last thing I would want. I don't need an asthma attack because of those linens bleached.

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