Thread Number: 79452  /  Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Miele W1930 washer water intake problems
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Post# 1033660   5/26/2019 at 10:22 (1,731 days old) by drhardee ( Columbia, SC)        

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I'm looking for some advice from the Miele washer experts here. My (now) 15 year old Miele W1930 washer has recently developed a water intake problem. When filling with cold water; for example, a cold/lukewarm wash or any rinse cycle, the "water intake problem" light will rapidly flash. Some times, the washer will continue to slowly fill and resume the cycle, and sometimes, it'll shut off mid-fill; perhaps that's built in to the diagnostics when the pressure is too critically low for operation.I then have to drain and spin and hope that something got clean somehow.

What I've done thus far is removed the cold fill hose from the spigot, and thoroughly cleaned the penny-sized white plastic mesh filter on the spigot end of the hose. I also changed the supplied black rubber washer, since it had been grossly flattened from 15 years of use (with no leaks!) and had gotten much larger; perhaps, I thought, further restricting the water flow into the valve. No such easy fix luck. The owner's manual indicates that I should NOT attempt to remove the second filter within the water intake valve (?), so I have not done so.

My question is: where do I go from here? Is the cold water intake valve shot? Is it just the filter that might need replacing, or is the secondary water intake valve filter built into the water intake valve? Are these water valves/filters/whatever still available on a 2004 model washer? I really don't want to ponder a replacement Miele set for 2019.

The washer and matching T1520 dryer have never given me a minutes' problem, unlike the Premiere Plus Miele dishwasher that's long gone from the scene.

Post# 1033663 , Reply# 1   5/26/2019 at 10:43 (1,731 days old) by henene4 (Heidenheim a.d. Brenz (Germany))        

Check your faucet first.

Otherwise you'll probably have to replace the cold water valve assembly, don't think you can replace the rinse valve on its own.

Post# 1033686 , Reply# 2   5/26/2019 at 17:53 (1,731 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Been there, and done that.

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With my Miele; most likely yes the cold water intake valve is going or nearly shot. It will have to be replaced.

Post# 1033693 , Reply# 3   5/26/2019 at 20:35 (1,731 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Likley Bad Inlet Valve

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Common problem with any washer-DW after a  good deal of time, only now you will find out the difference of owning a Miele washer and a popular WP built machine where the inlet valve is less than a $40 part.


John L.

Post# 1033696 , Reply# 4   5/26/2019 at 21:23 (1,731 days old) by gizmo (Victoria, Australia)        

first things first...

Turn off the tap and take the hose off the back of the machine. there is a small plastic filter screen where the hose screws on to the inlet valve. It is set into the valve. These get blocked with muck over the years.
Mostly they have a little raised bit in the middle, you grip that with a pair of pliers and pull the screen out. clean it with your partner's toothbrush, then refit to the machine and test it.

If that doesn't work, then the valve is failing. They have a rubber diaphragm in each of the inlet valves. (Mieles usually have a triple valve, so your one inlet connection feeds three solenoid valves in the one assembly.) These are NOT a special Miele part, they are a generic European triple valve. Get a price from Miele for a new one, if the price is OK then go ahead and order it. In the likely event that the price is horrific, you could try ordering one online from Europe / UK. I'm not sure if your machine will have 240 volt or 120 volt valves, but it will be labelled on the valve. If 240, you can order the whole assembly from Europe, non-genuine branded ones will be way cheaper and just as good. No-one sells the rubber diaphragms separately.

I often swap the diaphragms over from valves salvaged from dead machines of all brands, the valves Miele use have the same diaphragms as many other machines, I tend to use Fisher Paykel or any European brand as they are mostly compatible.

Good luck with it.

Post# 1033728 , Reply# 5   5/27/2019 at 07:26 (1,731 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
IIRC you washer has the single three-way solenoid

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This happens to all of us Miele owners sooner or later. Fifteen years is getting on for a Miele washer, so it isn't uncommon for something to need attention.

Repair is common enough, and you can search archives for those who have gone before you in this endeavor.

Happily unless am mistaken yes, your washer takes 220v solenoid valve that can be sourced from Europe (generic or Miele) usually for far less than they want from MieleUSA. But do give them a call and check with parts to see if they even still have water valves for your machine in stock. Also confirm part number so you will know what to order if chose to look elsewhere.

IIRC machine is aborting cycles because when machine fills too slow it simply "times out" of the allotted period allowed.

Often these valves go rather slowly. That is sometimes things will open/function. Others not, and or the thing will open slowly at first. Finally things just stop all together. That and or again you'll be waiting so long that machine may simply give up.

Post# 1033735 , Reply# 6   5/27/2019 at 10:40 (1,730 days old) by drhardee ( Columbia, SC)        

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John L.,
What you say is invariably true; but, I don't believe I'd have gotten 15 un-interrupted YEARS of service from a Ken-Tag-Whirl-Frigid-LG-GE-Pool. Maybe, just maybe with a Speed Queen FL, but then I can't crank up the water heating to 190 F with one of them..... True cost of ownership, and all of that. I'll see what I see, and report back.

Post# 1033977 , Reply# 7   5/30/2019 at 14:54 (1,727 days old) by jerrod6 (Southeastern Pennsylvania)        

I had the 1986 model. It had 3 different valves in one unit and different valves operated based on what part of the cycle it was in. Perhaps 1 for the main wash, two for the rinse and then there was a 3rd one for the fabric softener cup. The last time I replaced the valve it was $300, but that was years ago. I wouldn't be surprised if it is up in price by now if they even have it. So as Laundress suggests try asking about it, and then look into the prices in Europe. The valves are 220V.

Post# 1034068 , Reply# 8   5/31/2019 at 13:57 (1,726 days old) by RevvinKevin (Tinseltown - Shakey Town - La-La Land)        

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I went through the same exact thing with my W1926... and yes it was the 3 way cold inlet valve.  


FYI Make sure to take the top off your washer and check the valve (and other components) for correct voltage requirements.  While yes they require 220/240V power, the majority of electrical components inside are 120V, the only thing which requires 220/240V is the heater.   Stamped right on my drain pump motor is "120V".   My cold (triple) inlet valve is also 120V.


Good lock with it!


Post# 1034119 , Reply# 9   6/1/2019 at 08:54 (1,725 days old) by drhardee ( Columbia, SC)        
Sooooo.....the water inlet valve was available from MieleUSA

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After a 10 minute hold time from the Miele USA parts department, I did discover to my mild delight that:

a- I was still a registered Miele customer from days of yore.
b- The 240 v. 3-way (3801391) cold water valve was available @ a "bargain" price of $285.00; $305.00 with shipping.

Today's task is to enlist the help of my hunky neighbor man to get the stack mounted dryer off the top of the washer, so I can R+R the valve. I did have the presence of mind several years ago to purchase a repair manual for this washer (thank Goddess!), and the process is simple, according to the manual.

$305.00 is a lot of money to pay for a plastic water valve, true, but if I can repair this machine and get a few more years out of it, all will be worth it. It's the first money I've had to spend on it ever.

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Post# 1034132 , Reply# 10   6/1/2019 at 12:58 (1,725 days old) by drhardee ( Columbia, SC)        
FIXED !! At least I'm hoping so...

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An hour and a half, a busted knuckle and sliced forearm later, Tyler, the cute neighbor and I re-assemble the washer after removing and replacing the water valve.

The R+R process itself was comparatively easy, and I'm amazed that I had the tools to do this with. Then, disaster struck. I dropped a hose clamp down into the dark innards of the machine, and sliced my arm and knuckle reaching down into the bowels of the beast to retrieve that (I'm certain) specialty German hose clamp. After retrieving the clamp and buttoning everything back up, we shifted the 350+ lbs of combination machine back into place and reattached the hoses and electricity.

The water intake sound (with cold water) sounds like it did prior to the "Late Troubles". I'm washing a maiden load to see if my luck holds. Tyler was hot and sweaty as well, and I asked if he'd like to strip everything off and let me wash him, erm, his sweaty man clothes. He demurred, and said that he was getting in the neighbor's pool with his wife instead. Sigh...I tried, and he's a good sport.

Photo 1 is my normally "cherub-like demeanor" (thanks to the late comic John Pinette for that comment)prior to starting the job.

Photo 2 is Tyler, the cute neighbor, ready to start work, so he can go drink beer and cool off in the pool later.

Photo 3 is the top of the washer removed, exposing yet another stainless steel water and sound insulating cover over the innards of the machine...German over-building.

Photo 4 is reinstalling the new valve, just prior to the effing clamp taking a header into the bowels of Mt. Doom.

Photo 5 is last clamp retrieved and about to be tightened on the last marked hose. The repair manual said to mark the hoses and inlet ports to make sure that hoses went back onto the correct inlets, and I'm so glad I did that.

Photo 6 is the total absence of my aforementioned "cherub-like demeanor" after listening to 20 minutes of helpful chimed-in comments from my legally blind husband, who is cooking dinner in the background. I'm ready to throw him, and the moussaka he's preparing, into the neighbor's pool. Jeebus! Shut up already! But, he thinks he's helping.

Photo 7 is the buttoned-up washer awaiting Tyler and I hefting the T-1520 dryer back into position. The screws that hold the stacking brackets were entirely too short, so I substituted much longer wood screws into the wooden top of the washer to hold the stacking kit. Good and snug now!

Photo 8 is the Miele "easy install" electric box that allows both the washer and dryer to plug into one 240v dryer connection.

Photo 9 - Good times - Back in place ! Test load with empty machine run and drained out.

Photo 10 is the maiden load of whites (at 140F) to test the water valve during the rinse portion.

I figure I saved myself at least $300.00 by not having to call a Miele tech, or a washer tech out to do this job, which I certainly would have done had I not had the repair manual. Let's see if the repair holds.

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Post# 1034160 , Reply# 11   6/1/2019 at 17:53 (1,725 days old) by Launderess (Quiet Please, There´s a Lady on Stage)        
Good For You!

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Told you the job wasn't difficult, well once one gets lid off machine....

Always like to put a cloth or something under hoses or area working under when dealing with the Miele in hopes of avoiding just that scenario. Unlike my AEG where the back can be taken off, these old Miele washers do not allow. Everything is either front, top or maybe rear access. Of course Miele tech would have had extra bits and likely left the part where it fell. Then later upon moving washer found thing lying on floor or something....

Good thing about buying a Miele part is they are warranted for first year or so, and should last fifteen years (or thereabouts) depending upon use levels and a few other factors. So this repair should see you through another twenty years.

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