Thread Number: 79634
/ Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
GE Top Loader Lid Switch
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|Post# 1035367   6/14/2019 at 18:38 (1,722 days old) by HotWater (New York )
Hello. I recently purchased a GE “Portable” Top Loading Washer, and was wondering if anyone could help me in figuring out the location or disabling the built in lid switch on the machine. My first thought was it was a magnet of some sort (the lid is magnetic only in one corner) and attempted to place a earth magnet near the location. Needless to say, that didn’t work at all. My best guess is that it might be located in the hinge, but was wondering if any of you knew.
It’s a GE Top Loading Impeller Machine
Model # GNW128PSMWW
It does in my opinion seem like a perfectly normal GE TL Washer that has been slightly modified, but I suspect it has been made by some other company and resold under the Whirlpool, Black & Decker, and Haier brand.
I appreciate any help. :-)
|Post# 1035372 , Reply# 1   6/14/2019 at 19:36 (1,722 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)
Parts diagram indicates it is a magnetic (reed) switch.
Item #30 (p/n WH44X27476). Somewhere under the top deck at whichever edge of the lid ... possibly on the left side. The location of the magnet on the lid is the clue, you may need a stronger tricker-magnet.
Model GNW128PSM0WW Lid & Controls
|Post# 1035374 , Reply# 2   6/14/2019 at 20:08 (1,722 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)
|Post# 1035778 , Reply# 3   6/20/2019 at 08:51 (1,716 days old) by HotWater (New York )
Well... I've now tried a combination of fridge, hard drive, and earth magnets... and the damn thing won't budge. The more I've played around with it, I begin to notice that there is a "click" sound when the cover is 96% closed. It's in the hinges and I'm convinced that this somehow operates as a lid switch, and controls the washer.
It's not the end of the world... but I was really hoping that I could find a way to see this thing wash, and add clothes as it's filling. The darkened lid, while "modern"... makes everything opaque. I just do not think there is much I can do from this point. I have no ideas on how to bypass it.
Question though for Yogitunes. Was that Magicchef a recent model? Do you remember what year you purchased it? I'm convinced there are only one or two factories for these things, and the portables are all similar.
@DaDoes, I really appreciate you finding those schematics and trying to help. I couldn't find those with any searching.
|Post# 1035787 , Reply# 4   6/20/2019 at 10:43 (1,716 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)
the only way to know, is by gaining access to lifting the top, and/or rear panel...
the Avanti had only one regular switch connected to the lid hinge on the left....
yet the MC had this, plus the reed/magnetic switch on the right hand side of the door opening....
I had to install two switches to operate/by-pass this with the lid open...
|Post# 1035794 , Reply# 5   6/20/2019 at 12:20 (1,716 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)
Would somebody be able to post some color pictures on where to look, so I know what I am looking for? I have some difficulty seeing the details of things on those exploded diagrams.
I have a Magic Chef 1.6 MCSTCW16W4 . This little gem works great for delicates and smaller loads. It is the most recent model with the soft close lid. I have not found a way to bypass the lid lock yet. Also, what lid switch might work to bypass this? The biggest reason I want to do this is because I like to use hot water in it, but I am concerned about the steam damaging the electronic control panel.
Some other information that may be helpful. It appears to be a vmw design with a tub brake. It is also affected the new DOE requirements. Even on large load, the tub only fills halfway. I just add a 2 gallon bucket of water. I also have the best temperature control if I just hook it up to the sink and run one hose to the cold inlet valve (or similar setup). Great niche washer especially for only $200. I cannot comment in regard to how durable it is since I have not had it long.
|Post# 1036021 , Reply# 6   6/21/2019 at 23:03 (1,714 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)
The wiring diagram provides some information about the lid switch. I also attached pictures of the drain filter, bottom of washer, and how to access the water level sensor. Unfortunately, I do not have an allen wrench that fits. Part of me wants to try turning it clockwise??? just a smidge. I believe that is how I did it for my LG (but there was a YouTube video for that). Anyway, I thought some of you washer enthusiasts might be interested in seeing some pictures of the miniature marvel.
|Post# 1036028 , Reply# 7   6/22/2019 at 04:33 (1,714 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)
I have the same Magic Chef and I love it.
I wasn't expecting much from that washer when I purchased it. It was my very first washer here in the USA and I bought it when I was still living in an Extended Stay America in Dallas.
I thought it would be small like the Mini Haier and when the unit arrived it shocked me with its size. I almost returned it because it would be nearly impossible to smuggle it into the hotel and hide it in the closed. It turned out that the manager was super nice, he saw the FedEx driver unloading it in the truck and made a signal to me. he texted me "turn around because of the cameras, I'll open the emergency door for you".
Anyway, back to the washer. It's a very fun washer, the wash action is very dramatic and it does what a washer should do: Wash clean, rinse properly and spin. I thought it would last 1 year, if lucky, but it turned out it's reaching its 4th anniversary with no issues at all, including a road trip from Dallas to Los Angeles laying in a Honda Fit.
I also lived in hotels for 1 year after I arrived in Los Angeles and it followed me. I'm surprised it survived so many loadings and unloadings in my car.
Someday i'll buy the 2.2 cu ft model and replace it by the newer model that has a different (much nicer) design. I just hope the cycles are the same.
Regarding the lid switch, try moving the magnet very slowly around the frame or try to find where the magnet is on the lid. You may also need a stronger magnet.
Silly me, until now I always postponed opening it to adjust the water level. It's not horrible, but I can raise it 1 or 2 inches to wash even bigger loads.
It's small, but the capacity is impressively generous for its size and it REALLY cleans super dirty clothes.
Don't forget to remove the restrictors in the valves. It's behind the screen.
The only cycle I hate is the "normal" because it doesn't rinse. It does a "pee" rinse (That thing can't even be considered a spray rinse). The other cycles I love, specially the quick cycle (10 minutes) which is great when i just want to rinse.
Most of the times I simply hit power and start.
Until today I'm using mine with a magnet on the lid frame because I was lazy enough to open it and bypass the lid sensor. AS the subject came up, maybe this weekend I'll finally do it and MAYBE adjust the water level.
|Post# 1036082 , Reply# 8   6/22/2019 at 09:46 (1,714 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)
I have attached a cycle guide and control panel from the instruction book for the newer model washer.
I removed the screens and washers, but I do not see a restrictor. Sometimes, I cannot see finer details well. Maybe I missed it. I attached some pictures.
I think??? this one blends hot and cold water. I only hook a hose to the cold inlet valve and control the faucet either at the kitchen sink or at the washer outlet box (here I would mix a cold and hot line).
For those who may use a permanent hookup. I don't recommend using a washer outlet box faucet to control temperatures unless the faucets would be easy to replace if they start leaking. At least on the older ones, these faucets do not simply screw in. It requires a plumber and some drywall work to replace. The newer ones have "shark bite" attachments and may have an easy to remove panel instead of cutting up the drywall.
The older model of any washers will probably work better and will last longer. These new energy requirements were not thought out resulting in products that are less user friendly and do not work as well and cheaper build quality. I would venture a guess that most people are more concerned about saving money and will look for ways to reduce their hot water usage or water usage for those reasons. So add those additional features, but leave the options of deep fill and tap hot when needed.
|Post# 1036085 , Reply# 9   6/22/2019 at 09:51 (1,714 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)
I wish I could go back and edit...
The newer model does a rinse water level that seems to be equal to the wash level.
|Post# 1036153 , Reply# 10   6/23/2019 at 04:07 (1,713 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)
After you remove the screen filter, use thin nose pliers, and grab the very first thing you touch in the valve and pull.
Its impressive how it fills much faster. I mean, REALLY faster if you wave a wonderful water pressure.
My washer hookup is new, if someday the valves fail, I can easily replace them. Or even better, just call the landlord and let him deal with it lol.
Today I tried to raise the water level in the magic chef. It raised like 1 inch only.
|Post# 1036155 , Reply# 11   6/23/2019 at 04:12 (1,713 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)
Btw, I have "only" 16 washers connected to only one hookup (and a world of hoses and Y connectors) and two washers sharing the drain standpipe and all the others draining in the laundry sink.
Of course I have to keep an eye open because they can't drain all at the same time, but I learned how to start the washers at a certain sequence e to synchronize the drain times.
|Post# 1036159 , Reply# 12   6/23/2019 at 06:25 (1,713 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)
Did your water sensor level part on the Magic Chef look like the one I posted a picture of? If so, do you remember what the size of the tool was? The tool I need in an allen wrench (I think it goes by allen key or hex key too). I just want to raise the large load level from 1/2 tub to 3/4 tub. Even an inch would help. I try to limit my load to 5 to 6 lbs. or less and no more than 3/4 full loosely placed around the tub in a ring for that washer. The big box hardware stores are almost an hour away for me.
Thanks for the tip. I will see if it applies to this Magic Chef model. It does not look like they are controlling the hot that way, and it seems to fill quickly. Maytag controls temp with a thermistor (not really an issue for the main cycles), but it does seem like the Normal (half load) runs off cold inlet valve only on mine and not even the extra dumbed down "Hot" and "Cold" settings Maytag says I should have. Anyway, lack of hot water only was the only difference in why my dog bedding (done on Normal) was no longer coming out clean even though everything else was the same. I realized that at some point after I changed my original setup around.
Wow. 16 washers to one hookup?
The plumbing in my house is getting old. The original ones were "sweated in" and required a plumber to replace. When I had mine replaced, I got a washer box outlet with PEX and SharkBite connections and quarter turn ball valves. Also, the dry wall was replaced with a removable panel. I should be able to replace them myself next time. Controlling the temp from the washer outlet box is not something I would recommend to others even with this setup. If they leak, there is no shutoff to them except at the street meter. I am thinking of using a solid brass adapter and just adding some more of the same faucets and then adding my solid brass Y to that. It will not look pretty. Sigh. The new DOE stuff has just made things more complicated for me. I will replace hoses and those brass adapters/Y every five years.
Completely off subject. I would lean toward the TC5 now ONLY for this ONE reason (temp controlled half loads). It was not available when I made my purchase. This is ridiculous the hoops consumers have to jump through now. I still count my blessings that thanks to some great reviews, I did not end up with a washer that had no water or agitation too!
|Post# 1036169 , Reply# 13   6/23/2019 at 08:46 (1,713 days old) by sfh074 ( )
Thread hi-jack! Maybe HotWater should start a new thread to get the answer he is looking for .... the reason he started this thread in the first place?
|Post# 1036170 , Reply# 14   6/23/2019 at 09:22 (1,713 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)
your not filling in enough information.....
how many lid switch units does you machine have?....if it has two, using a magnet only while the lid is open, still wont work if the other is not bypassed...
on the diagram, 30 is the reed switch....
35 and 36 appear to be the OOB switch....
what is 37, pressure switch?
and what about 2....what does that do?...
your going to have to pop those top panels and have a look to see what your dealing with...your going to have to in any case if you want to by-pass them...
who knows, by now, there could be 3 or 4 lid switches, anything is possible...
never had to adjust water levels, all filled to the top for full level selections on the ones I have...
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|Post# 1036186 , Reply# 15   6/23/2019 at 12:27 (1,713 days old) by PinkPower4 (USA)
Please accept my apology.
A lot of the portable washers seem to be made very similar with just a different name stamped on them. The original poster has a higher end one, so he may not have the water level issue. The hot water one should be easy for that person to resolve too. I did not realize that in the beginning.
When I was digging around for lid switch info, I came across some other stuff that I thought may be helpful not only to that person or others including me.
I can tell you after taking mine apart, it is easier to resolve as many of the issues as you can at one time. Maybe it isn't for others, so separate posts would work better. I multi-task a lot, and sometimes I don't do a good job.
It looks like even with a paid account, one doesn't have much time to delete something when they realize it's off topic. I will keep this in mind in the future. Again, please accept my apologies.