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Thread Number: 79734
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Kenmore All in One AKA Frigidaire Skinny Mini |
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Post# 1036333 , Reply# 1 6/25/2019 at 05:04 (1,781 days old) by thomasortega  (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula) |
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Post# 1036335 , Reply# 2 6/25/2019 at 06:33 (1,781 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD) |
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That pos washer is famous for sudslocking. If you look at the way the pump is configured, it is obvious as to why. It is normal operation for the 110 volt model to prevent dryer heater operation when the washer motor is on. A 20 amp circuit can only handle so much load. | ||
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Post# 1036337 , Reply# 3 6/25/2019 at 06:46 (1,781 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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WCI Kenmore All In One
Hi Thomas, This machine has a relay that cuts off the dryers heater and timer motor whenever the washers motor is running, it is built this way so the entire machine can run on a 120 volt 15 Amp outlet.
This washer still has a main motor driven water pump so it only does a spin drain, WCI had a terrible time getting these washers to pump out as the pump would air-lock easily, when they finely switched to an electric drain pump in the early 90s it really helped this problem. Your machine was built in December of 1987, All WCI-FD major appliances have the manufacturing date printed on the model # tag, they have since some time in the 80s, didn't you work for FD at one time? Note: There were no 110 volt washers built after some time in the 1950s, using the correct terminology is important if you want to sound credible to the hundreds of people who might read your posts. John L. This post was last edited 06/25/2019 at 07:05 | ||
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Post# 1036410 , Reply# 7 6/26/2019 at 06:42 (1,780 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey) |
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Post# 1036414 , Reply# 8 6/26/2019 at 07:52 (1,780 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Removing The Washers front panel | ||
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Post# 1036444 , Reply# 9 6/26/2019 at 17:42 (1,780 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula) |
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How's the aluminum trim secured? just a sticky tape or there is any sort of clamp? I mean, I'm asking everything because i don't want to ruin the aluminum thing as the washer looks in absolutely perfect cosmetic (and operational) conditions. But I want to bypass the lid lock. | ||
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Post# 1036447 , Reply# 10 6/26/2019 at 18:11 (1,780 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey) |
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Post# 1036453 , Reply# 11 6/26/2019 at 18:47 (1,780 days old) by Wiskybill (Canton, Ohio) |
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Thomas... This the original agi-tub version. Don't know if yours is still the same. Trim snaps over the nylon washer under the screws. Pry carefully. You don't want to bend the trim. Hope this helps. Bill
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Post# 1036460 , Reply# 12 6/26/2019 at 22:39 (1,779 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula) |
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WOW. Thank you so much! Mine is not the Agitub (I wish it was) but it is enough to give me some ideas. | ||
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Post# 1036465 , Reply# 13 6/27/2019 at 02:33 (1,779 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula) |
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YAY! Lid switch bypassed... Finally! | ||
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Post# 1036473 , Reply# 14 6/27/2019 at 06:53 (1,779 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Yay, Lid Sw Bypassed Now you can watch the pathetic turn-over as it tries to turn over larger items with its silly indexing tub.
We saved one of the first 24" SMs and one of the last with the electric drain pump for the museum, but I skipped over this generation because the pump will suds-lock too easily [ even with plain water in it, it struggles to pump out at times ] WCIs cure was to make the last spin cycle almost 15 minutes long and if the machine struggles long enough it seems to eventually get the final water out, with the spin after the wash cycle they just let it start the deep rinse with the outer tub full of suds.
Does yours have the really long final spin cycle ? Once WCI starting building these with the GE name on them GE went over to WCI and tried to improve the product. After they started making the GE machines GE insisted the plastic top, lid and door on the dryer be replaced with metal because of all the serious fires that these machines had caused.
The main washer motors would overheat and melt the plastic splash cover set it on fire and then the entire outer tub would be ablaze then the washers top & lid, the dryer door and then good by to your home, the smoke damage alone was terrible from more than 10 pounds of burning plastic.
I remember in the 80s when we were buying returned-damaged appliances from a local Sears outlet and there was a corner with a 1/2 dozen of these KM All-In-Ones with yellow tape all over and around them that had caught fire, we were told not to touch them as they were in litigation etc.
John L. This post was last edited 06/27/2019 at 07:09 | ||
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