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Thread Number: 80155
/ Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
Is there anyway to stop Speed Queen INDEXING? |
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| Post# 1040985 , Reply# 1 8/7/2019 at 21:28 (1,991 days old) by ladd (Maryland) | ||
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I have a one month old TC5000 that does some indexing. I've read that it will get better as the machine breaks in, but don't really know how putting some wear on the brakes will make them grab better. | ||
Post# 1040997 , Reply# 2 8/7/2019 at 23:27 (1,991 days old) by Frigilux  (The Minnesota Prairie) |
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My 2017 Series 9 SQ still indexes a little—maybe about a 10th of a turn; noticeably less than during the first year, at any rate, back when it actually was hindering rollover on large loads.
I’ve always enjoyed watching indexing tubs, so it’s a win-win for me. After nearly 30 years of front-loaders the SQ’s indexing and spin-drains complete my old-school top-loader experience. I know John L. (combo52) has posted how to stop the indexing. Maybe he’ll see this and weigh-in on it. Otherwise, search SQ threads about indexing. It’s in there somewhere. | ||
| Post# 1040999 , Reply# 3 8/7/2019 at 23:38 (1,991 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york) | ||
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Thanks guys, I'll take a look at that | ||
| Post# 1041003 , Reply# 5 8/8/2019 at 02:16 (1,991 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york) | ||
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Beside, the indexing, can anyone also explain why Speed Queen for years haven't CORRECTED the water level load size selector MISPRINT...the 'medium' selection is in place of LARGE...here's a pic of the medium setting water level...it's clearly an amount of water for a 'LARGE' setting
View Full Size
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| Post# 1041008 , Reply# 6 8/8/2019 at 04:54 (1,991 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york) | ||
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here's a video of the transmission INDEXING..."Speed Queen AWN542 noise" youtube CLICK HERE TO GO TO scrubflex's LINK | ||
| Post# 1041012 , Reply# 7 8/8/2019 at 05:41 (1,991 days old) by mrb627 (Buford, GA) | ||
Brake Slip
Initially, it was told that the break pads were factory coated with a lubricant of some type to prevent corrosion which might occur between factory assembly and final installation at the purchaser's location. Perhaps when machines are shipped around the world on tankers, the salt air can cause issues. Cleaning the brake pads with a solvent was said to correct the issue.
Malcolm | ||
| Post# 1041029 , Reply# 8 8/8/2019 at 09:04 (1,991 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york) | ||
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Hi Malcolm, I suppose the tub indexing complaint percentage isn't high enough to consider a solution...indexing has been a issue for years...has anyone tried to clean the brake pads? | ||
| Post# 1041032 , Reply# 9 8/8/2019 at 10:24 (1,991 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa) | ||
 >> ... but don't really know how putting some wear on the brakes will make them grab better. There are volumes to read if you are really interested... but two things to highlight: Despite our best manufacturing tolerances, brake pads and drums/discs are never "perfectly" matched in shape and flatness. Therefore, when put in contact with each other, there will be ridges, bumps, high spots, or just slightly mismatched shaping which prevent complete and even contact between the two surfaces. Under the initial usage, these high spots and ridges will see a disproportionate amount of pressure & friction, resulting in them wearing down faster than the rest of the surface. Over time (a comparatively short time), this is a self-solving problem, as the materials wear to conform to each other for a better fit. So upon initial use, the brake is less effective... but after a short period of usage, the characteristics will have improved and stabilized considerably as the surfaces conform and make better contact. A second factor is the initial conditioning of the drum/disc. Upon initial use, there is a transfer of material from the brake pads to the drum/disc, which alters the friction properties of the drum/disc. If you've ever changed the brakes on a vehicle, you might be familiar with the process of "bedding in" your brakes. A search for "adherent friction" will give all kinds of information on this subject, and how the initial cycling of a brake changes the properties of the surfaces. (Note: I'm not sure that either of these are explanations of why the Speed Queens are indexing, just posting them as examples of why braking systems could be less effective when new, but improve with usage.) | ||
| Post# 1041034 , Reply# 10 8/8/2019 at 10:42 (1,991 days old) by eurekastar (Amarillo, Texas) | ||
 If you look at the brake rotor on a Speed Queen and the brake pads, it makes sense that a break in period is needed. The rotor is round and the pads are flat. So it makes sense (to me at least) that it takes time for the pads to wear enough to provide grip. Since Speed Queen is designed for commercial applications first (like a laundromat) which would see constant use throughout the day, the break in period would be shorter than my Speed Queen which sees maybe five to seven loads throughout a week. | ||
| Post# 1041137 , Reply# 13 8/8/2019 at 22:45 (1,990 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa) | ||
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>> how dangerous is it if new vehicle brakes have ANY slippage...(that's risking people lives)
Vehicle brakes actually *are* designed to slip! If they didn't, they would grab and lock up, which would make for extremely dangerous handling on the roads! Anytime you slow down without fully stopping, those brakes are slipping, and they are designed to do that day in day out for tens of thousands of miles. A closer comparison for the washing machine perhaps is the vehicle's parking brake, which is usually used as the functional equivalent to a wheel chock. But even they are still designed to allow slippage, as your parking/emergency brake is your last level of the redundant braking systems in your car... and should your primary hydraulic brakes fail while driving, that emergency brake is designed to allow for a safe controlled stop. | ||
| Post# 1041146 , Reply# 14 8/8/2019 at 23:50 (1,990 days old) by Spinmon (st. charles mo ) | ||
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The indexing will diminish. If you're not getting good turnover in the Queen,you have too many items in there! Why wear out your clothes and the machine while getting poorer wash/rinse? "Overstuffed" IS overloaded. Load properly and enjoy. | ||
| Post# 1041157 , Reply# 15 8/9/2019 at 03:39 (1,990 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york) | ||
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Okay and true...thanks everyone | ||
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Post# 1041175 , Reply# 16 8/9/2019 at 07:29 (1,990 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Indexing SQ TL Washers Hi Harry, you are way over thinking this issue, of the 1000s of SQ TL washers we have sold or serviced no customer has ever brought up this issue, it does not affect performance in any real way.
That said and while this is a great washer for most users it is still a crude machine and I will never have one in my laundry room.
If you want perfection in a traditional TL washer rebuild a WP-KM-KA top loader from approximately 1985-1995 , you could also do a WP-KM BD or a MT DC or a GE FF washer but with a few more trade-offs in performance and difficulty because of age in restoring them.
John L. | ||
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Post# 1041190 , Reply# 18 8/9/2019 at 12:47 (1,990 days old) by GusHerb (Chicago/NWI) |
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The best (and only solution) is to keep using it and not worry about it. The more you use it the faster it will go away. It took over 6 mos for it to go away on mine and it gets used a good amount. | ||
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Post# 1041383 , Reply# 20 8/11/2019 at 05:09 (1,988 days old) by appnut (TX) |
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Post# 1041385 , Reply# 21 8/11/2019 at 05:21 (1,988 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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 Busted WP Gold .... if the motor runs and it drains then the coupler may be the issue. If the motor doesn't run (hums for a bit then may shut off on thermal overheat until it cools and tries to run again) ... then could be a loose/burned wire or bad capacitor, bad speed switch (if equipped - problem occurs on all speed choices, or all cycles if speed is in the timer?), or bad timer, or a sock or some such jammed in the pump, or a mechanical problem with the transmission. | ||
| Post# 1041427 , Reply# 22 8/11/2019 at 11:45 (1,988 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york) | ||
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Double checked---powers on (hum) and fills in the wash and rinse cycles...no sound in agitate or spin cycle...don't believe there's a chance of sock in the pump because basic loads aren't large enough and the neutral drain...which also stopped working...started spin draining | ||
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Post# 1041430 , Reply# 23 8/11/2019 at 12:27 (1,988 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Humming sound during filling is the water valve solenoids. The motor doesn't receive power, of course, until the target water level is reached for agitation to start. Silence from the drive motor during agitation (AFTER the target water level is reached) and during drain/spin = motor not receiving power. First thing I'd check is the lid switch if this is a model that doesn't agitate with the lid open (or does the lid switch stop only spin/drain?). Next thing is check the wires on the motor. Proceed from there accordingly per the results. | ||
| Post# 1041433 , Reply# 24 8/11/2019 at 13:11 (1,988 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york) | ||
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Thanks DaDoES, installed a new lid switch already...no agitation or spinning...drained tub with bucket last time I tried to use it...what do I need to look for regarding motor wires | ||
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Post# 1041450 , Reply# 25 8/11/2019 at 18:48 (1,988 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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| Post# 1041753 , Reply# 27 8/14/2019 at 16:03 (1,985 days old) by scrubflex (bronx, new york) | ||
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A712 problem solved | ||
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