I think products have become highly scented because it's now cheap for manufacturers to make them that way and people actually prefer them (or equate highly-scented with "more powerful.")  The original Tide liquid is P&G's latest victim.  Over at the Tide website there's plenty of outrage and all P&G will say is that most consumers prefer an "intense" fragrance.

The Tide Powder with Bleach is still lightly scented but I now expect it to be turned into unbearable perfume at any time and any box I buy could be my last.

As far as energy efficiency goes, appliance manufacturing is now in the hands of a few global corporations.  A temporary pause in the USA's standards isn't going to change much, if anything.

Flash drying - at least that's what I recall the owner's manual for the Bosch SHU43C sez.  Frankly I think it dries well enough. The only water left behind is that caught in the concave bottoms of certain items like cups and wine glasses. Simple enough just to tip them over, and maybe wipe a little off with a clean towel.

Then again, I chose the longest and hottest cycle (pot scrubber) so when the cycle is over, there's a cloud of steam if you open it right away. I'm not sure if things dry faster with the DW open or closed.

As for cleaning, it's rare that everything doesn't come out spotless. The only time I had trouble with it was when the drain pump needed replacement. Before the Bosch I had a Frigidaire which was a nightmare. It lasted about five years, and I picked up the Bosch as a customer return at Sears. No regrets.

With modern appliances.  It's their planned obsolesce.  There used to be a day when 15-20 years was a good life for a water using appliance.   Many real Kitchenaids have lived 30 or more years. 

Now if you get five, you have  quality machine.

The problem for me with super-long cycles is that two loads usually need to be run when I have company. I try to do a load of cookware before the meal, but that doesn’t always play out. Back at the house (and the warehouse apt.) there could easily be three or even four loads when making big meals for 8+. It’s in those cases where cycle time can really add up.

And to answer the question I know is coming: Washing anything by hand is cheating!!

Now that my life has been downsized, there are no more 2 or 3 entree buffets with multiple sides + desserts.  We usually just go out to eat if there are more than four of us, LOL.

No hand washing is allowed at my house.  I'm one of those "strange" people that won't use anything unless it's been washed in the dishwasher.  In the process of preparing things for a company meal, or something similar, I have been known to "sort" dishware and give first priority any/everything that can be washed with simply using the 1-hour cycle.

The one time I haver used the delay start feature was two years ago.  When I awoke the next morning, that was when the diverter/distribution valve decided to tank.  I'm too skiddish to tempt fate again and have that happen all over again.  I just don't fall asleep very easily knowing the dishwasher is still running.  I've ceased using the dry cycle most of the time as it's just about finished with the final rinse by the time I'm ready to go to bed.  That way I can open the door and let everything flash/steam dry over night.  

Every dishwasher I’ve had in the last 10 years has had an impressively effective short cycle. That really keeps things moving in multiple/consecutive loads situations.  

I used to entertain 2-3 times a week—often with multiple entree buffets—so the dishwasher had to do multiple loads frequently.  An effective short cycle (usually 45-75 minutes) was an important feature.

A TOL KitchenAid was advertised for $499 in 1980 in my local paper.  That would be just over $1500 today.

For a long time I've been of the opinion that paying more often just gets you more features, not more reliability.  But who knows?

I would love to see a real parts breakdown and reliability study of the various WP models today:

Cheap $300 Whirlpool

Mid-range $600 Maytag

High-end $1500 KitchenAid

And see what lasted longer.

I don't think we can say this is true across the board with all manufacturers but it's been my experience that it's usually true.  

My most recent experience of this was when I was shopping for a dishwasher.  I noticed that just in the BOSCH line alone those machines that costs less had racks that were not as adjustable as those in the higher cost models (feature) and noticed that the lower end models had a plastic bottom while the higher end were all stainless (build quality?).  Does this matter in the long run?  Each person will have a different answer because we all use different criteria to evaluate.  I wanted the third rack, etc. so I had to pay a little more to get it.

Another example for us last year was when one of our door openers went out.  Since both were almost 20 years old we decided to replace both which is not an inexpensive endeavor (and I'm a little OCD and wanted them to match :) ).  I did a lot of research and found big differences in the features and build quality among the lower end models through to the higher end.  In the end I went for the better warranty (I got ten years), what is supposed to be a better drive mechanism and had the WiFi abilities I wanted.  I also was able to purchase from a local Overheard door franchise which I try to do whenever I can.  And because it wasn't a big box store I was able to negotiate a better price since I was buying two instead of one.  I try to support local when I can vs. the big box stores.

Would likely be the $299 machine, the highest end models differently have many more problems.

Likewise the lower end Bosch DWs are considerably longer lived and less problem prone than their high end models, however Bosch DWs are much flimsier than WP built machines, the number of broken handles, rack wheels and even bent doors we see on Bosch DWs shows that they are not a good choice for rentals and student housing situations, LOL

With appliances like water heaters , furnaces and central A?C units the more expensive models will generally last longer and cost less to operate.

Garbage disposers are a good example of getting what you paid for, aTOL ISE disposer will cost 3 or 4 times as much as a Bager but will last 2-3 times as long and will not clog your drains.

Range hoods are another good example of getting a much better product if you pay more.

John L.

It's my impression that warranties on water heaters have mostly to do with the number and quality of the anode rods in the heaters. More anode rod means less corrosion of the glass lined steel tank, and a longer tank life.

There may be other bells and whistles, of course, to go along with a higher price.

I'm keeping my 40 year old water heater going by replacing the anode rod every 10 years or so. I also flush it out every three or four years. It's probably due now. Seems to run fine. The only hiccup in the last 20 years has been the pilot got plugged up and the entire thing stopped producing hot water. That was about two years ago. There's no sediment trap in the gas line to the heater, which means some gunk got into the pilot circuit. It wasn't hard to fix once I figured out what the problem was, and it's been running fine since. Nope, haven't put a sediment trap in the line yet. Lazy.

I did add another layer of insulation to the tank, and some foam insulation on the hot water pipes under the house. I think it helps. We'll see.

Better water heaters have two or more anode rods. One as a free standing one, which is basic. The other one is incorporated into the cold water inlet (a long pipe called a dip tube that puts cold water to the bottom of the tank, so it gets heated faster without unduly cooling the entire tankful). Although on my water heater, the dip tube is plastic. I know that because I replaced it at one point.

There are also two types of anode rods. The most common around here are magnesium, and they have a little raised dot in the center of the anode rod attachment nut at the top of the water heater. The other type is aluminum, and has a flat nut. I think the magnesium ones are better, but in some locations aluminum is used because the magnesium isn't as well suited to the water quality. And aluminum rods are cheaper.