Thread Number: 81173
/ Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
WP Direct Drive Clicking/tapping |
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Post# 1051858 , Reply# 1   11/21/2019 at 11:48 (1,758 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)   |   | |
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Forgot to add that I also replaced the counterbalance spring at the same time I replaced the 3 suspension springs. |
Post# 1051861 , Reply# 2   11/21/2019 at 12:42 (1,758 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 1051871 , Reply# 4   11/21/2019 at 16:52 (1,758 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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The neutral drain mechanism inside the transmissions locks the spin gear against turning, so the spin gear and clutch housing do not turn during neutral drain. The lock releases when the motor pauses between neutral drain and spin. The spin gear and clutch housing then turn when the motor restarts for spin. The clutch band releases the brake and turns the spin tube to rotate the basket. |
Post# 1051880 , Reply# 5   11/21/2019 at 19:07 (1,758 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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I am going to bet that the motor is causing the noise, If the noise is not that bad just keep using it till it either gets too loud or the machine stops working.
If you really want to try fixing take the cabinet off and see where it is coming from, if it sounds like it is coming from the motor install a substitute motor to be sure.
John L. |
Post# 1051932 , Reply# 7   11/22/2019 at 10:40 (1,757 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)   |   | |
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Added another video (at the above link) showing agitation which sounds perfectly normal to me. |
Post# 1051938 , Reply# 9   11/22/2019 at 11:22 (1,757 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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The rhythm of the "knocking" during the spin video is at the same rate as the oscillation of agitation so presumably it's coming from the transmission. The internal oscillating parts of the transmission move the same during neutral drain & spin as they do during agitation ... only the agitator shaft itself is disengaged. Doesn't necessarily mean there's a problem. Maybe your transmission is just a little more prominent on the oscillation noise. Combo52 can offer a more expert diagnosis. |
Post# 1052080 , Reply# 11   11/23/2019 at 13:25 (1,756 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)   |   | |
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@DADoES; If you wanted to stay with the traditional agitator washer of yester-year, would you be looking into getting a refurbished (~$120.00) gearcase for this machine? |
Post# 1052138 , Reply# 12   11/24/2019 at 10:27 (1,755 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)   |   | |
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At this point, as bad as the quality of newer machines are, I'm currently pulled between repair of my Direct Drive, OR getting a good deal on a Samsung HE top loader during the Black Friday sales... Any input/opinions would be greatly appreciated. |
Post# 1052143 , Reply# 13   11/24/2019 at 11:57 (1,755 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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well thats up to you to decide which is the better route to take....
for the most part, DirectDrives are not extinct....their all over CL, and used appliance dealers have an abundance of them..... you could probably get a newer one for well under 200.00...and most likely with a warranty.... some used appliance dealers will sell you parts if needed... some will even take a trade in..... |
Post# 1052166 , Reply# 14   11/24/2019 at 13:50 (1,755 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Is it actually malfunctioning, or just making the noise of concern? If you can get a transmission for $120, perhaps do that to have it on-hand and continue to use the machine as-is until something does malfunction, on the presumption that the transmission may be the cause of the malfunction? Or, you've already done more repairs by far than the typical consumer would be willing to tackle ... including opening and going into the transmission, so you can do that again if it becomes necessary. Only you can decide if you want to put up the effort to keep the machine running vs. 1) finding another and perhaps doing some repairs/refurb on it, or 2) dumping it for something newfangled. :-) |
Post# 1052185 , Reply# 15   11/24/2019 at 16:46 (1,755 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Post# 1052307 , Reply# 17   11/25/2019 at 19:01 (1,754 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Hi I finely got you video to play, yes the noise is a transmission problem.
As far as new machines if you want a traditional agitator top load washer get the SQ TC5000, or the MT commercial style washer with the 5 year warranty, if you want the best all around washer get a SQ Front Load just get a good used machine, if you like what you have put in another transmission.
John L. |
Post# 1052408 , Reply# 19   11/26/2019 at 19:20 (1,753 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)   |   | |
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shanenc14 if i link you to a site from canada would you have ship an older direct drive washer from canada to your home adresse for you to use as a daily driver or for donating parts? here is the link its on the southshore of montreal
www.econopluselectromenag... |
Post# 1052416 , Reply# 20   11/26/2019 at 22:15 (1,753 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Hi Shane, The 7 CF WP dryer is plenty big enough to dry any load from the new GE.
Keep us posted how the new GE TL washer works out, we have only had two of these in our shop and I did not use them much.
The 4.5 CF GE will not likely wash any more or even as much as you're 3.2 CF DD washer did. The GE does not fill nearly as full as the WP DD and without a tub brake the GE cannot turn over big loads nearly as well as the WP.
Please post your experiences when you have had it for awhile.
John L. |
Post# 1052419 , Reply# 21   11/26/2019 at 23:00 (1,753 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Post# 1052468 , Reply# 23   11/27/2019 at 12:53 (1,752 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)   |   | |
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Post# 1052472 , Reply# 24   11/27/2019 at 15:56 (1,752 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)   |   | |
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Post# 1052578 , Reply# 25   11/28/2019 at 09:30 (1,751 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)   |   | |
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I plan to get one directly through GE because they allow you to split the cost of the extended warranty into 4 monthly payments. |
Post# 1052627 , Reply# 26   11/28/2019 at 18:48 (1,751 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)   |   | |
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Hi Shane, how many people are you washing for and how many loads a week do you do?
Unless you are doing in excess of 10 large loads a week you probably should skip the contract.
If you must get one do get it directly from GE the after market contracts usually offer inferior service.
But in most cases service contracts only return about 25% of what you spend on them, you will actually make out better playing the state lottery where the average return on your money is close to 50%.
The best thing you can do to keep an appliance running in a trouble free manor is to be sure that it is installed properly and use it properly [ keep it clean, use plenty of good detergent, little or no cold water washing etc ]
You are also not a great candidate for a SC because you are very capable of fixing many things yourself and these new GE washers are very easy to work on, and most parts are pretty resumable in cost.
John L. |
Post# 1052771 , Reply# 28   11/30/2019 at 11:52 (1,749 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)   |   | |
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Just discovered that the GE service contact requires a $50.00 deductible... not sure how I feel about that. |
Post# 1052786 , Reply# 29   11/30/2019 at 16:48 (1,749 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)   |   | |
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I do wash in cooler temps most of the time. Will running the "Basket Clean" cycle, which uses 100% hot water (Heater set to 150F) and fills the drum to capacity combined with 2 - 3 cups of bleach on a monthly basis take care of any build-up/bacterial issues? |