Thread Number: 81173  /  Tag: Modern Automatic Washers
WP Direct Drive Clicking/tapping
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Post# 1051856   11/21/2019 at 11:20 (1,561 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)        

I have a WP direct drive washer that I did alot of work on after buying it used about 2 years ago. I've replaced the following:

Pump, motor coupler, clutch assembly, neutral drain assembly in gearcase, water level switch, water temp switch (w/auto water temp sensing), 3 suspension springs, 3 crescent shaped tub wear pads.

Model # Is GSW9800PW2 (Appliance 411 says mfg in 2005)

Have said all that, here is my current problem:

The washer completes all parts of the cycle, which I can watch with the lid up because I've permanently bypassed the lid switch on the machine. During draining, I hear a faint tapping sound, after the motor pauses, and restarts to spin, I can hear the exact same tapping pattern, except it's MUCH louder when spinning. Does anyone have any idea where I should start looking to attempt to solve this issue?

I'm disabled and have a very difficult time tearing things apart, and would like some pointers before I call a friend over to help me tackle this.

I think I'd scream bloody murder if I had to go back to a crappy HE machine!

Post# 1051858 , Reply# 1   11/21/2019 at 11:48 (1,561 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)        

Forgot to add that I also replaced the counterbalance spring at the same time I replaced the 3 suspension springs.

Post# 1051861 , Reply# 2   11/21/2019 at 12:42 (1,561 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
if only during drain/spin portions of the cycle.....I would venture first into the clutch...

but if anything, I would remove the body, and try to pin point where exactly the noise is coming from.....

pump could be another issue.....something like a little pin in there rattling around...

Post# 1051867 , Reply# 3   11/21/2019 at 14:37 (1,561 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)        

Does anyone know if the clutch is actually spinning during the drain portion of a cycle? After the motor pauses after neutral drain, and restarts... the very second it restarts to being spinning the tub, I hear the tapping/clicking sound. From that second the speed/pattern of the sound does not speed up/slow down. I did however, switch the spin speed from high to low, then back to high in the middle of a spin, and the clicking pattern slows. When switching back to high speed spin, the pattern speeds up instantly, not gradually, so I'm almost positive it doesn't have anything to do with the speed in which the tub is spinning. Any additional insight before I get someone to help me tear this thing down would be wonderful. Thanks a million for helping.

Post# 1051871 , Reply# 4   11/21/2019 at 16:52 (1,561 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
The neutral drain mechanism inside the transmissions locks the spin gear against turning, so the spin gear and clutch housing do not turn during neutral drain.  The lock releases when the motor pauses between neutral drain and spin.  The spin gear and clutch housing then turn when the motor restarts for spin.  The clutch band releases the brake and turns the spin tube to rotate the basket.

Post# 1051880 , Reply# 5   11/21/2019 at 19:07 (1,561 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Strange Noise On A DD Washer

combo52's profile picture

I am going to bet that the motor is causing the noise, If the noise is not that bad just keep using it till it either gets too loud or the machine stops working.


If you really want to try fixing take the cabinet off and see where it is coming from, if it sounds like it is coming from the motor install a substitute  motor to be sure.    


John L.

Post# 1051930 , Reply# 6   11/22/2019 at 10:16 (1,560 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)        

I've done a quick video to give a better idea of what I'm talking about. If anyone has any insight, please let me know. You can hear the thumping/knocking sound the instant the machine starts up. I will eventually get some folks over to help me remove the cabinet and see if I can possibly narrow this down; however, I wouldn't mind some expert input.

Thanks a million for all of the help.

Post# 1051932 , Reply# 7   11/22/2019 at 10:40 (1,560 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)        

Added another video (at the above link) showing agitation which sounds perfectly normal to me.

Post# 1051934 , Reply# 8   11/22/2019 at 10:44 (1,560 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)        

Sorry for so many posts, cant delete. I had to create an updated link for both videos to show up.

Thanks again for all help! :)

Post# 1051938 , Reply# 9   11/22/2019 at 11:22 (1,560 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
The rhythm of the "knocking" during the spin video is at the same rate as the oscillation of agitation so presumably it's coming from the transmission.

The internal oscillating parts of the transmission move the same during neutral drain & spin as they do during agitation ... only the agitator shaft itself is disengaged.

Doesn't necessarily mean there's a problem.  Maybe your transmission is just a little more prominent on the oscillation noise.

Combo52 can offer a more expert diagnosis.

Post# 1051942 , Reply# 10   11/22/2019 at 12:08 (1,560 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)        
85w-140 vs 75w-90 gear oil

When I replaced the neutral drain assembly, I drained the oil, cleaned everything with a paint brush and paint thinner, let it completely dry. By accident when I picked up the gear oil at Walmart, I grabbed 85w-140 gear oil, instead of 75w-90 that is recommended. I had the transmission already sealed up with RTV silicone before I realized that I got the wrong oil.

I posted on here about that, asking if I should drain and refill the transmission with the correct weight oil, and all of the responses said to just let it be as long as the machine is indoors, and not outside or in a garage exposed to cold temps in the winter. It's indoors, so I never bothered to change it back to 75w-90 gear oil. The neutral drain assembly and heavy weight oil has been in the machine for almost 2 years, and the machine is used to do 7-10 loads every week.

This "knocking" noise is something recent within the past week or so. I'm wondering if the heavy 85w-140 oil has done something negative to the transmission???

Post# 1052080 , Reply# 11   11/23/2019 at 13:25 (1,559 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)        
Replacement Gearcase?

@DADoES; If you wanted to stay with the traditional agitator washer of yester-year, would you be looking into getting a refurbished (~$120.00) gearcase for this machine?

Post# 1052138 , Reply# 12   11/24/2019 at 10:27 (1,558 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)        
Whirlpool DD vs New Samsung HE

At this point, as bad as the quality of newer machines are, I'm currently pulled between repair of my Direct Drive, OR getting a good deal on a Samsung HE top loader during the Black Friday sales...

Any input/opinions would be greatly appreciated.

Post# 1052143 , Reply# 13   11/24/2019 at 11:57 (1,558 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
well thats up to you to decide which is the better route to take....

for the most part, DirectDrives are not extinct....their all over CL, and used appliance dealers have an abundance of them.....

you could probably get a newer one for well under 200.00...and most likely with a warranty....

some used appliance dealers will sell you parts if needed...

some will even take a trade in.....

Post# 1052166 , Reply# 14   11/24/2019 at 13:50 (1,558 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
Is it actually malfunctioning, or just making the noise of concern?

If you can get a transmission for $120, perhaps do that to have it on-hand and continue to use the machine as-is until something does malfunction, on the presumption that the transmission may be the cause of the malfunction?

Or, you've already done more repairs by far than the typical consumer would be willing to tackle ... including opening and going into the transmission, so you can do that again if it becomes necessary.

Only you can decide if you want to put up the effort to keep the machine running vs. 1) finding another and perhaps doing some repairs/refurb on it, or 2) dumping it for something newfangled.  :-)

Post# 1052185 , Reply# 15   11/24/2019 at 16:46 (1,558 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Strange Noise On A DD Washer

combo52's profile picture

I could never get your link to open so I have not heard the noise, in general I would keep using it till it gets pretty loud.


Or go buy the new Chinese washer China needs money more than you do, LOL.


John L.

Post# 1052267 , Reply# 16   11/25/2019 at 10:35 (1,557 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)        

@DADoES: Yes, the washer completes the cycle, however the noise has gotten louder than it was in the video.

@combo52: Below is a new link of the machine spinning. If I buy new which would you recommend Samsung vs GE?

Post# 1052307 , Reply# 17   11/25/2019 at 19:01 (1,557 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Strange Noise On A DD Washer

combo52's profile picture

Hi I finely got you video to play, yes the noise is a transmission problem.


As far as new machines if you want a traditional agitator top load washer get the SQ TC5000, or the MT commercial style washer with the 5 year warranty, if you want the best all around washer get a SQ Front Load  just get a good used machine, if you like what you have put in another transmission.


John L.

Post# 1052381 , Reply# 18   11/26/2019 at 14:48 (1,556 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)        

Well, with $$ being an issue, I've decided on a GE 4.5 cu ft top load model # GTW685BSLWS. It's coming today, got a pretty good deal at $548.00. Would LOVE to have a SQ FL. Maybe one day. At lease this GE has a true dual-action agitator, unlike almost all other HE top loaders; and a feature that I thought was long gone -- a warm rinse option.

I'm absolutely not going to send my WP DD to the landfill, as I will eventually put a transmission in it as a backup machine for when this GE gives up the ghost, or the repair cost will be too high to justify repair.

Wish me luck; hopefully I don't end up pulling my hair out,

Quick question: Is a Whirlpool 7.0 cu ft. dryer large enough for this washer?

Post# 1052408 , Reply# 19   11/26/2019 at 19:20 (1,556 days old) by pierreandreply4 (St-Bruno de montarville (province of quebec) canada)        

pierreandreply4's profile picture
shanenc14 if i link you to a site from canada would you have ship an older direct drive washer from canada to your home adresse for you to use as a daily driver or for donating parts? here is the link its on the southshore of montreal


Post# 1052416 , Reply# 20   11/26/2019 at 22:15 (1,556 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        

combo52's profile picture

Hi Shane, The 7 CF WP dryer is plenty big enough to dry any load from the new GE.


Keep us posted how the new GE TL washer works out, we have only had two of these in our shop and I did not use them much.


The 4.5 CF GE will not likely wash any more or even as much as you're 3.2 CF DD washer did. The GE does not fill nearly as full as the WP DD and without a tub brake the GE cannot turn over big loads nearly as well as the WP.


Please post your experiences when you have had it for awhile.


John L.

Post# 1052419 , Reply# 21   11/26/2019 at 23:00 (1,556 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
Shane, just to say ... interesting that $$ is a concern but $548 for a new GE is workable and $120 (that you quoted) for a DD transmission is not.

BTW, lists $112.62 for a transmission (+$30 shipping).

Post# 1052447 , Reply# 22   11/27/2019 at 10:36 (1,555 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)        

Got approved for a CC w/ 12 months zero interest, otherwise the new machine would have been totally out of the question. My main concern was that the DD transmission wouldn't have held up the 2-3 months it would have taken me to save up to order a refurb. Being disabled and on SS benefits is no fun, for sure.

Post# 1052468 , Reply# 23   11/27/2019 at 12:53 (1,555 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
Acknowledged.  :-(  Hope you can get the balance paid without interest kicking-in.

Post# 1052472 , Reply# 24   11/27/2019 at 15:56 (1,555 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey)        

yogitunes's profile picture
am hoping you got an extended warranty....

with todays products, better safe than sorry.....

Post# 1052578 , Reply# 25   11/28/2019 at 09:30 (1,554 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)        

I plan to get one directly through GE because they allow you to split the cost of the extended warranty into 4 monthly payments.

Post# 1052627 , Reply# 26   11/28/2019 at 18:48 (1,554 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Service Contracts For Home Appliances

combo52's profile picture

Hi Shane, how many people are you washing for and how many loads a week do you do?


Unless you are doing in excess of 10 large loads a week you probably should skip the contract.


If you must get one do get it directly from GE the after market contracts usually offer inferior service.


But in most cases service contracts only return about 25% of what you spend on them, you will actually make out better playing the state lottery where the average return on your money is close to 50%.


The best thing you can do to keep an appliance running in a trouble free manor is to be sure that it is installed properly and use it properly [ keep it clean, use plenty of good detergent, little or no cold water washing etc ]


You are also not a great candidate for a SC because you are very capable of fixing many things yourself and these new GE washers are very easy to work on, and most parts are pretty resumable in cost.


John L.

Post# 1052770 , Reply# 27   11/30/2019 at 11:50 (1,552 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)        
Service Contract vs DIY

Hi John,

My machine is currently handling laundry for 5 people, so the machine gets a decent workout.

My current concern is, even at the age of 37, the state of my disability, in the next couple years will couple very well prevent me from doing most of the things that I'm thankfully able to do now. I have two diseases are are listed on NORD (National Organization for Rare Disorders), so there isn't much known about where things are headed from a medical standpoint.

I contacted GE by phone, and they said that as long as I sign up for a service contract PRIOR to the end of the 1 year standard coverage, then I can add up to 5 additional years of coverage.

I have looked at the price of parts of the machine and they are pretty cheap, so I may proceed with caution over the next 8 months or so before deciding to get the extended service contact through GE.

BTW, GE's SCs are handled by a company called Assurant. Never heard of them, so I'm not sure of their reliability.

Post# 1052771 , Reply# 28   11/30/2019 at 11:52 (1,552 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)        

Just discovered that the GE service contact requires a $50.00 deductible... not sure how I feel about that.

Post# 1052786 , Reply# 29   11/30/2019 at 16:48 (1,552 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)        
Cold/Cool Wash

I do wash in cooler temps most of the time.

Will running the "Basket Clean" cycle, which uses 100% hot water (Heater set to 150F) and fills the drum to capacity combined with 2 - 3 cups of bleach on a monthly basis take care of any build-up/bacterial issues?

Post# 1052824 , Reply# 30   12/1/2019 at 06:21 (1,551 days old) by thomasortega (El Pueblo de Nuestra Señora de Los Angeles de Porciúncula)        

"Will running the "Basket Clean" cycle, which uses 100% hot water (Heater set to 150F) and fills the drum to capacity combined with 2 - 3 cups of bleach on a monthly basis take care of any build-up/bacterial issues?"


Modern washers already dumb down the temperatures. For most washers, Hot means warm, warm means cold, cold means "on the rocks".

Use Hot as much as you can, of course, respecting the maximum wash temperature the garments can resist.

If possible, also stay away from liquid or "pods" detergents.

Post# 1052853 , Reply# 31   12/1/2019 at 13:43 (1,551 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)        
True 100% Hot H2O

I can confirm that the Basket Clean cycle uses 100% hot water, because if I open the lid and put my finger in the water, it's blistering hot, and it drains my hot water heater. I know, I was shocked that it actually uses 100% hot on the clean basket cycle.

Knowing this, would this be OK and still use cooler wash temps in an attempt to save on electricity?

Post# 1052854 , Reply# 32   12/1/2019 at 13:49 (1,551 days old) by shanenc14 (Tennessee, USA)        
New GE Model

This is the link to the model I purchased. So far, although only having the machine a short time, it is the closest you're going to get to a traditional top loader with a dual action agitator. You can actually hold the Deep Fill button for 3 seconds, and it will fill to capacity, or press Deep Fill once, and each time the machine will add 6 gallons of water.

Cleaning is surprisingly really good thus far... we'll see how things are 6-8 months from now.

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