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Thread Number: 82327
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Maytag A170 Skips Drain Cycle |
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| Post# 1063436 3/16/2020 at 19:02 (1,106 days old) by frank1492 (Worcester) | ||
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Hello, My A170 Maytag skips the drain cycle and causes motor overheating when attempting the spin cycle.Timer seems likely but suppose it could be a bad connection. Any other ideas? Where should I start looking first? Many thanks. Frank | ||
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Post# 1063446 , Reply# 1 3/16/2020 at 21:20 (1,106 days old) by combo52  (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Maytag Washer Problem | ||
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Post# 1063452 , Reply# 2 3/16/2020 at 22:23 (1,106 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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| Post# 1063453 , Reply# 3 3/16/2020 at 22:28 (1,106 days old) by frank1492 (Worcester) | ||
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A107 Sorry A107 not A170 | ||
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Post# 1063482 , Reply# 5 3/17/2020 at 03:58 (1,105 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD) |
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How do you get the water to drain out of the machine? If the motor does not work in the reverse or spin direction, you need a new motor. | ||
| Post# 1063489 , Reply# 6 3/17/2020 at 05:44 (1,105 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea)) | ||
 Skuze me, I've only changed belts on Maytags, but if the motor runs one direction, the exact same windings are used for reverse. Only the polarity of one winding changes, and the timer does that. If the motor fails to start and only sits there growling, the current through the one winding that is working doubles, quickly overheats and trips off.
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Post# 1063516 , Reply# 7 3/17/2020 at 11:00 (1,105 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Frank1492: The motor does run on spin. The spin begins slowly but the lights dim, the motor gets warm and trips the thermal cutoff.Does the behavior occur when set to spin *without* water or clothes? If so, remove the belts, set it to spin. Same behavior? Have you removed the machine's front panel to look for evidence of a bad tub seal/bearing ... such as obvious water dripping, telltale rust or a spattering around inside/down the sides of the cabinet at the level of the top of the transmission / bottom of the tub? | ||
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Post# 1063523 , Reply# 8 3/17/2020 at 11:36 (1,105 days old) by LowEfficiency (Iowa) |
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 >> The motor does run on spin. The spin begins slowly but the lights dim, the motor gets warm and trips >> the thermal cutoff. I did not know that spin and drain occur simultaneously and thought the full tub >> was causing the overload. It would sound like a bad motor except the agitation cycle is always normal. >> Any other ideas? Check for stuck clothing between the inner and outer tubs! If a piece of clothing works its way in there, it can make the inner tub jam up, and the motor won't be able to turn it (or turn it fast enough), leading to the motor cutting out when it trips the thermal overload. Here's a thread on my A209, which I bought with a similar issue. It had two socks stuck, one near the top of the tub, and another which had migrated half way down between the two tubs. "Maytag A209 - Anyone missing a sock?" www.automaticwasher.org/c... | ||
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Post# 1063535 , Reply# 9 3/17/2020 at 12:47 (1,105 days old) by eronie (Flushing Michigan) |
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Is the motor carriage bound up? It has to slide to allow the belt to slip at the start of spin to allow for the pump out. | ||
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Post# 1063572 , Reply# 13 3/17/2020 at 17:33 (1,105 days old) by Yogitunes (New Jersey) |
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with both belts off, the carriage springs still have tension pulling the motor fully backwards and causing the motors shaft to ride against the base plate causing a scraping/screeching noise....use a block of wood or just push it slightly forward...
depending on when your model was built the pulley may have to come off, and sometimes not, once you get the screws out, you will know which one you have......but anyway, there should be three tiny screws holding the carriage/motor to the base plate...pushing motor forward to gain access to the ones near the front, and then the one facing the rear... have seen motors run fine on their own, or just hooked up to the belts....then an issue surfaces when you put the weight of clothing/water against it...just one of those crazy things... | ||
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Post# 1063575 , Reply# 14 3/17/2020 at 17:51 (1,105 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Post# 1063605 , Reply# 17 3/17/2020 at 21:41 (1,105 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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MT Motor going Out On Overload At Spin Start If the motor works for wash it is NOT a bad motor, take the main drive belt off and examine it, is it greasy and sticky ?, Is the cloth coating worn off making it grab too much ? make sure there is no grease-oil on the pulleys, if so clean them.
If voltage dips to around 100 volts at spin start add a motor start capacitor, if it dips below around 100 volts fix wiring-circuit problem with your home.
Sometimes making the the pump belt slightly tighter will take a little tension off the main drive belt and allow the motor to start for spin [ Note at spin start the motor should get up to full speed in one second, the only strain is on the main drive belt as the water pumps out and the basket gets up to speed ] Be careful not to tighten the pump belt too tight or it will slip too much with heavy loads durning agitation.
As you are learning MT washers used a mickey mouse belt tension-clutch system that they really did not fix till around 2000, but you should be able to get it to work fairly well with enough tinkering.
John L. | ||
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Post# 1063635 , Reply# 18 3/18/2020 at 04:04 (1,104 days old) by eronie (Flushing Michigan) |
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Bad wall outlet? | ||
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Post# 1063641 , Reply# 19 3/18/2020 at 06:21 (1,104 days old) by retro-man (- boston,ma) |
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You are plugged directly to a wall outlet and not an extension cord or a power strip correct? Jon | ||
| Post# 1063728 , Reply# 21 3/18/2020 at 21:06 (1,104 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea)) | ||
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Congrats Frank. A lot of this diagnosis stuff is correlating what has gone before. Bad neutral isn't the first suspect in most cases, unless it's happened to your house before. Wonder is, your fridge will still start at 95V.
Last time, was it the utility? Or the house wiring? I know 'what' it is, but not why/how. | ||
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Post# 1063753 , Reply# 22 3/19/2020 at 06:14 (1,103 days old) by Tomturbomatic (Beltsville, MD) |
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Don't apologize. We had fun weighing in. Hope you will be spinning soon. | ||
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Post# 1063835 , Reply# 24 3/19/2020 at 19:16 (1,103 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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| Post# 1063844 , Reply# 25 3/19/2020 at 20:48 (1,103 days old) by frank1492 (Worcester) | ||
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A107 I never would use an extension cord. But thanks for the tip! | ||
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Post# 1064470 , Reply# 27 3/24/2020 at 19:04 (1,098 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay) |
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 I have a later model with the larger tub so this may not be a true like-for-like comparison, but with a full load my machine doesn't quite reach top spin speed by the time the spray rinse begins. After the spray rinse is over, it reaches full speed pretty quick. I've heard from others that their experience is the same.
With a standard tub however, and presuming there's no difference in timer increments between the two tub sizes, your machine may reach full speed before the spray rinse starts.
I can't imagine that any spin-drain machine made by any manufacturer could possibly reach full spin speed in one second flat. Where did you get that information from? The White House? | ||
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Post# 1064472 , Reply# 28 3/24/2020 at 19:18 (1,098 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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Full spin RPM is surely not attained in 1 second, LOL ... not even on an empty basket. Acceleration time when running a load of course varies per the volume of water to be drained, size of load and type of fabric, etc. Fill level is controlled by a pressure switch that responds to the depth of water in the tub ... via an air tube that comes up the (out)side of the tub, attaching to the pressure switch in the console. | ||
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Post# 1064800 , Reply# 30 3/27/2020 at 12:04 (1,095 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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One Second Start | ||
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