Thread Number: 82510  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Replacement Motor for 1977 Norge Wards Burpilator
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Post# 1065683   4/2/2020 at 20:56 (1,083 days old) by Robinbird (Wisconsin)        

Hi everyone,
I'm a new member and could use some help please. I have a Mongomery Wards 20 cycle washer model LNC-6837 (purchased new in 1977). The motor is on it's last leg. The motor thermal protector shut it down and I could smell it burning. After it cooled off I took off the front panel so I could check out what was happening. I turned the washer on in a spin cycle and the motor buzzed loudly, started smoking and shut off again. I'm a pretty good mechanic and I'd like to replace the motor and keep the machine going if possible. The washer is in pretty good condition otherwise and I like it. Anyway, is there a replacement motor that will fit this machine. I took the motor out and it's 3/4 HP with the following numbers on it... 33-7323 and 5KH41LT11AS. Please help.


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Post# 1065687 , Reply# 1   4/2/2020 at 21:27 (1,083 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
Welcome! What a great vintage washer you have there. Here is a link to a motor that is listed as used but it looks like a new old stock or possibly one that was installed for a short period of time and then removed. This is an Emerson motor that is a direct replacement for the motor number you provided. First I would make sure the pump or the transmission is not causing a strain on the motor. Hope this helps.

CLICK HERE TO GO TO Repairguy's LINK on eBay

Post# 1065736 , Reply# 2   4/3/2020 at 10:33 (1,082 days old) by appnut (TX)        

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Robin, I'm so impressed you are the original owner. Drool!! Do you still have the original owner's manual and other associated paperwork?

Post# 1065741 , Reply# 3   4/3/2020 at 11:14 (1,082 days old) by turbokinetic (Northport, Alabama USA)        

The buzzing and smoking and shutting off is very likely due to the motor having worn bearings. This allows the rotor to drag inside the motor causing it to do what you are experiencing.

You really better jump on that motor from eBay. There are people who will buy that to hoard it and you'll miss out. 

Post# 1065761 , Reply# 4   4/3/2020 at 14:26 (1,082 days old) by Robinbird (Wisconsin)        

Repairguy, thanks for the helpful information and the link. I did check to see if the pump and the tub/transmission turn freely and they seem to turn just fine. I see a couple of other motor models on eBay that LOOK like they may work. One of them is a GE 5KH41LT15S and the other is an Emerson 33-9968. How can I tell if either of these will work?

Appnut, thanks. My parents were the original owners. I inherited the machine from them. They did save all the literature that came with the machine in an envelope. I'll post photos.

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Post# 1065762 , Reply# 5   4/3/2020 at 14:47 (1,082 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

Wow, that was not a cheap washer, particularly considering it was a Norge-sourced Signature/Wards.


My mom's '75 Kenmore which was just a notch below their priciest model cost $309.  I always knew Kenmore/Sears to be more costly than anything from Wards.  I guess that wasn't always the case.



Post# 1065765 , Reply# 6   4/3/2020 at 14:53 (1,082 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture
Robin thank you. Did your parents have the matching dryer at one point? My parents bought a top of the line Norge washer December 1963/64 and the matching dryer February 1964/65.

If you have pages in the guides with close-ups of the control panel and the option buttons to the left & right of the timer dial and respective description information, I'd love it.

Neighbor across the street had a 1971/72 Montgomery Wards washer that was probably 2-3 models below the Top of the Line like your parents bought.

Post# 1065770 , Reply# 7   4/3/2020 at 16:04 (1,082 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
I’m not sure what the difference would be but the 33-9968 motor crosses to a different one. The one in the link above directly crosses from the motor number you provided. Without seeing the other one I don’t know but in my opinion Emerson motors were better than GE in the sound and vibration department. As David (turbokinetic) mentioned above you’d better jump on this motor if you need it. The machines built like yours were discontinued in the early 80’s and parts such as the motor can be a little hard to locate these days.

Post# 1065787 , Reply# 8   4/3/2020 at 18:47 (1,082 days old) by Robinbird (Wisconsin)        

Appnut, Is this what you were thinking of?

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Post# 1065796 , Reply# 9   4/3/2020 at 19:44 (1,082 days old) by Robinbird (Wisconsin)        

I'm waiting to hear back from the person who has the one that you linked to. I can't tell if there are 2 studs or 4 studs on the bottom. The original has 4... which the base plate with the 3 pads bolts up to. I also found this cross reference and it shows the original motor 33-7323 crosses to a Mars 04007. When I check a 5KH41LT15S it also comes up as a Mars 04007. Does that mean that the 33-7323 interchanges with the 5KH41LT15S?


Post# 1065803 , Reply# 10   4/3/2020 at 20:54 (1,082 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
It’s very possible that these motors will cross reference. The one from the link I sent would have four studs unless someone cut them off for some odd reason. The 3/4 horse motors on the Norge machines were common for Norge. FYI: Montgomery Wards never made an appliance as Sears did not either. They both put their names on common branded appliances. Sears Kenmore washers and dryers were built by Whirlpool for many years. The one you have is a Norge with the Montgomery Ward badge.

Post# 1065811 , Reply# 11   4/3/2020 at 22:31 (1,081 days old) by Washerlover (Lake County, California: Wines With Altitude)        

washerlover's profile picture

Those motors are easy to change out...the trick is finding one.  I have a 1976 and 1980 Wards Signature but am not willing yet to part them out..!  They certainly are fun machines, to be sure! Once you find a new motor, it’s a slam dunk.  Fingers crossed for you because these machines rock!

Post# 1065817 , Reply# 12   4/3/2020 at 22:44 (1,081 days old) by appnut (TX)        

appnut's profile picture

Yes, thank you.  That's exactly what I want to see.  

Post# 1065819 , Reply# 13   4/3/2020 at 22:57 (1,081 days old) by Robinbird (Wisconsin)        

If the motor in the link has four studs I'll probably end up buying it then. The seller has a pretty firm no return policy so I want to make sure it's good. Seller also didn't take very good photos of it and only two studs are showing. Are there Norge models that are just like the Wards models but with the Norge name on them? I tried searching the internet to find one but couldn't come up with anything.

Post# 1065828 , Reply# 14   4/4/2020 at 01:16 (1,081 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

I would say an actual Norge wouldn't be much different from a Ward's except maybe for minor control panel treatments, particularly toward the end of Ward's sad existence (I grew up in a staunchly loyal Ward's household and witnessed my dad's colorful language many times when various appliances and power tools purchased from Ward's failed prematurely in one way or another).


Sears, on the other hand, had Whirlpool build washers for them that offered features and upgrades that were exclusive to the Kenmore badge, and it wasn't long before Kenmore consoles, agitators, etc. looked nothing like Whirlpool's.  Meanwhile, a Ward's washer and a Norge were practically identical under their respective lids.



Post# 1065891 , Reply# 15   4/4/2020 at 14:34 (1,081 days old) by Robinbird (Wisconsin)        

Thanks for the helpful information everyone. I just purchased the motor that Repairguy linked. I hope to be able to return the favor some day. I'll post an update after I install it. I tried the motor again and it seems to run fine with no load (belt removed) but overheats when a load is added. The shaft turns freely with no slop. I wonder if there is an internal short in the windings? Possibly from overheating during a heavy load or just a break down of the insulation on the wire over time? The windings look good from the outside but who knows what it looks like inside.


Post# 1066269 , Reply# 16   4/6/2020 at 19:29 (1,079 days old) by Robinbird (Wisconsin)        

Update. I don't have the new motor yet but I took the old one apart to see what went wrong. The windings are toast.

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Post# 1066273 , Reply# 17   4/6/2020 at 20:32 (1,079 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Burned Motor Windings

combo52's profile picture

Wow, yes the start windings are toast, most likely breakdown of the insulating coating, once it shorts in one place it keeps getting worse.


When you put the new motor in check the amp draw as the machine goes through a full cycle, it should never be drawing over around 9-12 amps while running with a load.


Norge had more than their share of problems with these 3/4 HP motors, the motors ran hot and often caused  timer contacts to fail from the heavy current draw. Norge was the only company that went to these power hungry 3/4 HP motors. 


The best thing to keep these machines running is to replace the 3/4 HP motor with the standard 1/2 HP motor, the machine will run just as well and have fewer electrical problems.


John L.

Post# 1066339 , Reply# 18   4/7/2020 at 09:37 (1,078 days old) by turbokinetic (Northport, Alabama USA)        
I see evidence.....

.... of why it died.  The bearings went dry, became worn until the rotor rubbed the stator, and locked the motor. See annotated picture. 


The "greasy" spots on the winding are where the failing bearing melted and then threw bits of the oil wick out of the bearing onto the winding. 

The real tell-tale thing is the shiny, burnished surface of the inside of the stator. This is where the rotor was rubbing on the stator and binding the motor so it could not rotate. 


This failure happens once the "lifetime lubricated" oil finally is gone. I always poke a hole in the oil wick covers and re-lube these motors when I get them, to hopefully prevent this failure. 

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Post# 1066486 , Reply# 19   4/8/2020 at 14:59 (1,077 days old) by Robinbird (Wisconsin)        

Thanks for the info, very good observations and diagnosis. Good idea about checking the amp draw. I wouldn't have thought of doing that. It does look like bearing failure was most likely the cause. My only doubt comes from the fact that, during disassembly, I had to rotate the shaft and rotor and it did rub against the stator a little. But I doubt it would have left as much wear as it has. I would not have thought it had a bad bearing before I disassembled it. The shaft spun freely and there was very little play. That is definitely felt from the bearing on the wire (excellent observation).
The new motor was just delivered and I have a question. The terminals on the new motor are labeled the same as the old but in a different configuration. The 1-5 terminals are clear but it's the terminals that are labeled "P" that I'm unsure about. Does it matter which P wire goes on which P terminal?

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Post# 1066530 , Reply# 20   4/8/2020 at 18:49 (1,077 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
Connecting Wiring To The New Motor

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It does not matter which P wire goes on each P terminal, just put one on each.


 Any Bearing play or side to side looseness in a motor like this and its done, a little shaft end-play usually does not hurt but if you can feel any side to side wear you will be lucky if it works at all and it usually will not last long.


How did you take the old motor apart ? as these are welded together.


John L.

Post# 1066548 , Reply# 21   4/8/2020 at 19:33 (1,077 days old) by Robinbird (Wisconsin)        

Combo52, thanks for the help. Yeah, there sure isn't much clearance between the rotor and stator... any amount of play and they are likely to hit. As you know, the two halves are welded together with what looks like a spot weld but is most likely a plug weld (hole and weld). I drilled the welds out with a 1/2" bit. Had to pry up a little on each to make sure it was free. Thanks again for the help on the wiring. I'm planning on doing the install in about an hour. I'll post back here withthe results later.

Post# 1066582 , Reply# 22   4/9/2020 at 00:32 (1,076 days old) by Robinbird (Wisconsin)        

A big THANK YOU to EVERYONE for the help. Special mention goes to Repairguy... not only for talking me into buying the correct motor but leading me to it in the first place. I would not have found it without your help. Like you said... it looks like the motor was never used.


Post# 1066590 , Reply# 23   4/9/2020 at 04:12 (1,076 days old) by chaskelljr2 (Washington, D. C.)        

@ Robinbird:

So, that means your Norge/Montgomery Wards Signature washer is back up and is working again?

If so, congratulations.


Post# 1066593 , Reply# 24   4/9/2020 at 05:48 (1,076 days old) by eronie (Flushing Michigan)        

Pix please!

Post# 1066602 , Reply# 25   4/9/2020 at 07:59 (1,076 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas)        

repairguy's profile picture
Congrats! Glad to hear you have this great vintage washer back in operation again. I agree that some good pics of the machine are in order.

Post# 1066650 , Reply# 26   4/9/2020 at 14:40 (1,076 days old) by turbokinetic (Northport, Alabama USA)        

Glad you got it going! 

Post# 1066651 , Reply# 27   4/9/2020 at 14:58 (1,076 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

AW to the rescue yet again!  I've lost count of success stories like this!


Even though I'm not a Norge/Wards fan, I'm still on board with saving a viable machine that has performed well for decades.   Your washer can outperform anything on the market today, including the exalted Speed Queens.

Post# 1066675 , Reply# 28   4/9/2020 at 17:43 (1,076 days old) by Robinbird (Wisconsin)        

Yes, the machine is working fine. I took one brief video last night of it working. I'll do a better one next time I do a batch of clothes. 43 years of continuous use and it's still going. I almost decided to buy a new machine but I'm glad I didn't. Some of the new stuff seems poorly made.



Post# 1066680 , Reply# 29   4/9/2020 at 18:35 (1,076 days old) by Washerlover (Lake County, California: Wines With Altitude)        
1/2 HP vs 3/4 HP?

washerlover's profile picture

Thanks, John L., for enlightening me on the motor size for Norge/Wards.  I didn’t think one could just swap out a higher with a lower HP motor and the machine will still work fine?  Did Norge manufacture 1/2 HP motors — I only thought they made 3/4 HP..?

Post# 1066732 , Reply# 30   4/10/2020 at 07:26 (1,075 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
1/2 Vs 3/4 HP Motors

combo52's profile picture

Norge only used 1/2 HP motors on their large washers from about 1964 till sometime in the 70s when they started calling the same size washer 20 pound capacity.


When Norge came out with their big washer they called it a 15# machine, then soon the called it a 16# capacity, then it jumped to 18#s. 


Several washer makers in the US were in a capacity race and I guess that NORGE was going to win when they again relabeled their  washer again this time jumping from 18 to 20 pounds. The washer was so over stuffed with 20 pounds of clothing that motor would overheat and trip the overload with that much in it. So they they actually had to put a 3/4 HP motor in the machine to get a UL approval.


Hi Todd, but in answer to your question some 1/2 HP motors are interchangeable with the 3/4 HP motors, it depends on the age of the washer and motor as they changed their wiring a little over the span of these washers. And the 1/2 HP motor will work just fine and draw less power and you will have less likelihood of burned up timer and pressure switch contacts [ unless you want to try stuffing 20 pounds of clothing in your washer ] LOL


John L.

Post# 1066774 , Reply# 31   4/10/2020 at 14:16 (1,075 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)        

rp2813's profile picture

Wow, I know from first hand experience that Norges are loud, but that beast is hella LOUD!

Post# 1066779 , Reply# 32   4/10/2020 at 14:47 (1,075 days old) by Robinbird (Wisconsin)        

It's not in that bad of condition considering it's been used for 43 years. Some of the woodgrain finish is flaking off and there's a little chip in the porcelain enamel top but other than that not too bad.

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Post# 1066783 , Reply# 33   4/10/2020 at 15:04 (1,075 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.)        

dadoes's profile picture
I always found Wards mid- and top-of-line machines to be handsome units, and the TOLs had tons of buttons ... but I never could get a grip on how they figured so many cycles, LOL.

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