Thread Number: 82840
/ Tag: Vintage Dishwashers
NEED HELP w/KDP-18.....TRIPPING GFI |
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Post# 1070363   5/1/2020 at 22:04 (1,060 days old) by newvista58 ![]() |
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Hi Gang,
I ran this KDP-18 today, as I'm finally unpacking my dishware. It ran perfectly fine. A little while later, I started another load. Some where in the wash cycle, close to opening the 2nd dispenser it Tripped the GFI. I reset the GFI and started the Wash cycle again. It ran about 10-15 Seconds, then tripped the GFI again. I looked inside and there was standing water. I reset the GFI, but this time I pushed the "Cancel Drain", button. DEAD Short - GFI Instantaneously tripped. Am I correct in Thinking the Drain Solenoid is Bad? Am I on the right track. If so, Does anyone know the Part # for a new one? I'm also thinking I should get Fill Solenoid, as well, to keep as a spare. Anyone know that part #,as well. Also, should I consider keeping spare timers, or pump/motor parts in stock. Thank you everyone, Any help would be Greatly Appreciated. Best Always, Louis |
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Post# 1070521 , Reply# 2   5/2/2020 at 18:44 (1,059 days old) by newvista58 ![]() |
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It was a fact of the KA being plugged into a GFI, when it shouldn't be, as explained to me by my electrician.
A lot of appliances develop a Current Leakage of over 5ma, which is the threshold where Cardiac Arrest could be triggered, and where a GFI is set to withstand, no more. As some appliances age the insulating ability of the chassis/wiring lessens. The machine still operates normally and risk of shock is greatly eliminated as long as polarity of plug is maintained. Since these DW's were originally hard wired, this situation never presented itself. I found the explanation interesting, so I thought, I would share it. Thank You for pointing me in the right direction. The DW works fine when plugged into a standard outlet. It ran a complete cycle perfectly. Thanks again. Louis |
Post# 1070541 , Reply# 4   5/2/2020 at 21:43 (1,059 days old) by combo52 ![]() |
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![]() Hi Louis, As Steve suggested you probably have a slight leak at the detergent dispenser.
This DW should be hard wired and not on a GFI, there is zero chance of getting a shock from this DW in normal use if properly grounded.
No major appliance with a grounded cord should ever bee on a GFI in a house especially a refrigerator or freezer, we see people coming home to a thawed out freezer all the time because someone had it plugged into a GFI.
John L.
We have about any part you might need for this [ or about any ] KA DW, Jason and I have been using this down time to sort all the parts at the warehouse and we have tons of KA parts, so many in fact that I recycled nearly 1/2 of what we have. |
Post# 1070547 , Reply# 5   5/2/2020 at 23:26 (1,059 days old) by LowEfficiency ![]() |
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![]() >> It was a fact of the KA being plugged into a GFI, when it shouldn't be, as explained to me by my electrician. >> No major appliance with a grounded cord should ever bee on a GFI in a house As STEVET mentioned, electrical codes are going to come into play on this. For example, here is a clipping from the 2017 NEC, where it states that GFCI protection is required for dishwashers.
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Post# 1070548 , Reply# 6   5/2/2020 at 23:34 (1,059 days old) by bradfordwhite ![]() |
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![]() Agree with the no major appliances connecting to a GFI.
When I built my second home I wanted everything in the garage on GFI. No said the electrician as they don't do well with LARGE sudden draws of electricity such as from a garage door opener kicking on.
If you're going to use a GFI, make sure it's a 20 AMP rated outlet on a 20 amp circuit, not 15. You'll have fewer chances of it blowing. |
Post# 1070569 , Reply# 7   5/3/2020 at 05:57 (1,059 days old) by DADoES ![]() |
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![]() John, I've seen posts on other discussion boards from homeowners having trouble with various types of appliances tripping GFCI outlets. Refrigerators in garages or basements or storage rooms or kitchens, dishwashers in kitchens, washers in laundry rooms. Electricians and contractors replying to the posts always argue that GFCI protection is required per updated electrical codes and the appliances are always causing the problem due to having a problem or being of bad design. |
Post# 1071101 , Reply# 8   5/6/2020 at 11:22 (1,056 days old) by newvista58 ![]() |
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For all the extra info and tips. The GFI was initially installed because of code. Code also requires an appliance grade grounded pigtail be installed on the dishwasher to be plugged in. Hardwiring, at least here in NJ, is not allowed. I will definitely be replacing the GFI with a single round 20 amp outlet. That way it is dedicated to only the dishwasher. I did test run the dishwasher on an appliance grade extension cord, plugged into a conventional duplex, and it works without a problem. Extraneous to the electrical issue I did find the new fill hose leaking at the machine Inlet, between its collar and crimp, creating no issue was machine operation, but I did replace it. So I guess it's a good thing the GFI popped otherwise I would have no reason to look under the machine and check everything, and would not have found the dripping till something else happened. I do not see any water leaking between the outside and inside panel of the door, so I am going to leave it alone. I just know that in my life if it's not broken, and I try to fix it, the end result = Migraine 😳/ LOL.
Code was followed, because Elec Inspections can be tough here. Now that it has passed, I will make changes, when I need to. John, what parts do you recommend I keep in stock, as spares for the future? I'm hoping to have this machine a long time. Thanks again, y'all. Louis 😎 |