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Thread Number: 83861
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
70's Maytag A107, banging on spin cycles. |
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Post# 1082229 , Reply# 1 7/24/2020 at 13:43 (1,535 days old) by RP2813  (Sannazay) |
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Welcome Nick! Your Maytag is well worth fixing! Check out this recent discussion. Disregard the thread title. Scroll down and there's mention of the washer tub shifting and banging/clanking during spin, and how the problem was resolved.
There's yet another link within that discussion that addresses this issue as well.
Also, I hope you saved the belts you replaced. Original, genuine Maytag belts are designed to slip a little. Your new belts may not be the same. CLICK HERE TO GO TO RP2813's LINK | ||
| Post# 1083664 , Reply# 3 8/2/2020 at 22:55 (1,526 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
Vaseline/Petroleum Jelly doesn't affect the agitator (Bakelite or poly) nor does it negatively affect the stop ring. Maytag has suggested its use going back the EJN wringer washers. That same exact stop ring was used for over 50 years on EJN Maytag wringers and automatic washers. Pretty cool, eh?
I've played around using different coatings on the metal agitator splines with different amounts of success. I recommend using the thinnest coating possible from an aerosol can, like Rustoleum. POR 15 will be far, far too thick and you'll never get the agitator back on those splines. Use nothing but Vaseline or Petroleum Jelly on the stop ring! "I able to pull on the tub enough to see some movement between the front tub support and the tub" I assume you're referring to the looseness in the tub bolt that goes through the support bracket inside the outer stationary tub? If so, you'll need to remove the inner tub to tighten that bolt. I'm surprised there's no leak coming from that area. The inner tub bolt has a special coned rubber washer that seals water from passing through that hole. I'd personally remove the bolt and use silicone sealant around the old rubber seal. Hold the inner bolt stationary while tightening the outer nut. Do NOT wipe away the excess silicone sealant that squeezed out from the inner bolt. Leave it be and give it a day to completely dry. Make sure the washer that goes between the outer tub and bracket is still in place. I believe Maytag was still using a lead washer at this time (they used a fiber washer by the 1980's). | ||
| Post# 1084870 , Reply# 5 8/12/2020 at 18:35 (1,516 days old) by qsd-dan (West) | ||
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The only tricky parts are in the transmission. The clutch washers are getting hard to find along with the pinion gear. Agitator shaft isn't a mandatory replacement item unless the shaft is rusty or the transmission is sluggish to start. Most of the smaller tub transmission shafts and bearings hold up better do to less strain in this area. I always recommend a transmission rebuild BEFORE those symptoms occur and it'll save a whole lot of hassle.
I sent you an email regarding some hard to find parts. | ||
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Post# 1090805 , Reply# 7 9/26/2020 at 15:27 (1,471 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions) |
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Post# 1090850 , Reply# 8 9/26/2020 at 22:25 (1,471 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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MT DC Brake Assemblies I 2nd what Kenny says, brakes almost never on MT DC washers, just be sure that it has a few tablespoons of heavy transmission oil in it.
It does have a Lining in it, if it fails it will screech when bringing the tub to a stop, I would not brother taking it apart or replacing it with a new one, it is very unlikely that a new one is as well made as the original one was.
John L. | ||
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