Thread Number: 83861  /  Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
70's Maytag A107, banging on spin cycles.
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Post# 1082227   7/24/2020 at 12:59 (1,306 days old) by NickL (Mid-Atlantic)        

I need some guidance with my "family-heirloom" Maytag A107. It has begun banging on spin cycles. I searched this terrific forum well, but I am stuck on diagnosis and next-steps.

This washer has never been a quiet spinner, but it never hard-banged until recently. Our home-from-college son started hitting it with small loads recently (ugh). It is now starting to bang on larger loads unless the clothes are distributed with the utmost care.

This washer has never needed anything but belts for me or its original owner ... pretty amazing. I have turned a wrench or two over the years, and I'm willing to go long-and-deep if this one can be saved. Its SN ends in UU, so I think that makes it a '74.

This is what I know so far ...

The washer is level, it is on solid flooring, and it does not walk. Its springs feel very solid, and the tub pivots on its pads without any roughness. There is definitely no metal-to-metal contact there.

I'm not sure how much resistance felt-pad washers should have when pivoting. My washer experience is limited to a Performa, and they have very slippery nylon snubbers.

The washer has a chronic lack of balance when spun up, and it does it with no load at all.

There IS some grease underneath when it is tipped back. It appears to have been leaking for some time. I understand that would be the lip seal leaking, and that some leakage isn't necessarily fatal. (pics attached)

There wasn't any grease on the belts themselves, but they were old so I replaced them ... no effect.

I am willing to go after the lip seal (if they can still be had). I would even get into the trans if that is not totally insane. First things first though ...

Is loss of trans grease enough to make these old washers unbalanced or is something else going on ?

Would putting a dry-lubricant on the felt 'damper pads' serve any purpose in diagnosing this ?

Is there anything else I can do toward learning what my options are for this A107 ?

I appreciate anything you can lend to this party. Thanks in advance all.


  Photos...       <              >      Photo 1 of 3         View Full Size



Post# 1082229 , Reply# 1   7/24/2020 at 13:43 (1,306 days old) by RP2813 (Sannazay)        
Welcome Nick!

rp2813's profile picture

Your Maytag is well worth fixing!  Check out this recent discussion.  Disregard the thread title.  Scroll down and there's mention of the washer tub shifting and banging/clanking during spin, and how the problem was resolved.

 

There's yet another link within that discussion that addresses this issue as well. 

 

Also, I hope you saved the belts you replaced.  Original, genuine Maytag belts are designed to slip a little.  Your new belts may not be the same.



CLICK HERE TO GO TO RP2813's LINK

Post# 1083653 , Reply# 2   8/2/2020 at 20:39 (1,297 days old) by NickL (Mid-Atlantic)        
Thanks RP ... and I'm now on the hunt for a project wash

You got me there RP...thanks.

It took me some time to get the agitator off safely. All good, and the splines are now clean.

I noticed in the link you provided that qsd-dan uses a thin coat of petroleum jelly on agitator splines. I thought petroleum products and plastics didn't play nice together.

** Should anything go on splines, or at least the agitator stop ring ? POR15 ?

So here is what I found. Only after I got the top off (to see how well or poorly the inner and outer tubs were aligned) was I able to pull on the tub enough to see some movement between the front tub support and the tub...doh !

I had read that being a common problem, but until lifting the top I would have sworn that support was firm.

It isn't spinning perfectly, but it is much better. A spanner tool is on the way so I can (learn how to) align the tubs better.

I think I now have the bug. I want to fix the trans leak and fully restore this one. It is for a daily-driver though. I am now looking for a project Maytag (eastern PA) so that this A107 can ultimately get its due.


Post# 1083664 , Reply# 3   8/2/2020 at 22:55 (1,297 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
Vaseline/Petroleum Jelly doesn't affect the agitator (Bakelite or poly) nor does it negatively affect the stop ring. Maytag has suggested its use going back the EJN wringer washers. That same exact stop ring was used for over 50 years on EJN Maytag wringers and automatic washers. Pretty cool, eh?

I've played around using different coatings on the metal agitator splines with different amounts of success. I recommend using the thinnest coating possible from an aerosol can, like Rustoleum. POR 15 will be far, far too thick and you'll never get the agitator back on those splines. Use nothing but Vaseline or Petroleum Jelly on the stop ring!

"I able to pull on the tub enough to see some movement between the front tub support and the tub"

I assume you're referring to the looseness in the tub bolt that goes through the support bracket inside the outer stationary tub? If so, you'll need to remove the inner tub to tighten that bolt. I'm surprised there's no leak coming from that area. The inner tub bolt has a special coned rubber washer that seals water from passing through that hole. I'd personally remove the bolt and use silicone sealant around the old rubber seal. Hold the inner bolt stationary while tightening the outer nut. Do NOT wipe away the excess silicone sealant that squeezed out from the inner bolt. Leave it be and give it a day to completely dry. Make sure the washer that goes between the outer tub and bracket is still in place. I believe Maytag was still using a lead washer at this time (they used a fiber washer by the 1980's).


Post# 1084860 , Reply# 4   8/12/2020 at 16:48 (1,287 days old) by NickL (Mid-Atlantic)        
A part in production for 50 years ... absolutely amazing.

Thanks for weighing-in on petroleum jelly being the right way to protect splines Dan. 50+ years of production on that stop-ring...wow.

Double thanks for letting me know how the outer tub bolts work. My prior experience was with a Performa....worlds different and straight out of 'plasticville'.

I was able to snug the front bolt enough to stop the movement between the leg and outer tub. I could not fully torque the nut though, and your input clears that up. It sounds like I am not done, and I do have the spanner tool.

I have a noob-restorer question first. I want to do a full-up mechanical and cosmetic restoration, but I don't have a spare/project-washer to fall-back on.

In terms of known-issues, this A107 has a minor oil leak, now an un-torqued tub bolt, and its snubber pads are original.

My concern is finding surprises upon disassembly and then having trouble finding parts.

*** Is it (still) possible to get 'all' of the parts needed for a solid restoration of an A107, or will there be some parts likely to be worn and only available as 'new-old-stock' or used ? ***

The full-up A106 restoration done last year by 79maytaga106 is what I have in mind. Agitator shaft was one of the'hens-teeth' items that he just happened to get got lucky on.


CLICK HERE TO GO TO NickL's LINK


Post# 1084870 , Reply# 5   8/12/2020 at 18:35 (1,287 days old) by qsd-dan (West)        

qsd-dan's profile picture
The only tricky parts are in the transmission. The clutch washers are getting hard to find along with the pinion gear. Agitator shaft isn't a mandatory replacement item unless the shaft is rusty or the transmission is sluggish to start. Most of the smaller tub transmission shafts and bearings hold up better do to less strain in this area. I always recommend a transmission rebuild BEFORE those symptoms occur and it'll save a whole lot of hassle.

I sent you an email regarding some hard to find parts.


Post# 1090803 , Reply# 6   9/26/2020 at 15:24 (1,242 days old) by NickL (Mid-Atlantic)        
A107 Proactive Rebuild

Parts have been arriving for rebuild of my '72 A107. More to go, but the pile is starting to add up !

I'm not yet sure on brake parts. This is a proactive rebuild, and the washer hasn't had any brake issues ... at least in its first 48 years LOL.

What do you guys recommend in brake parts ?

These are the brake-related items I know of:
WP200835 brake rotor bearing
WP6-2011900 brake assembly
WP22003441 brake bearing, upper

Bearings for sure, but how about the brake assembly ?

I'd like to know whether replacement is recommended / wise ... and whether a new Whirlpool OEM brake assembly is worth the bucks.

The MT service manual doesn't say a whole lot about how braking works ... like whether there is a pad wear-surface or whether braking is done via lubricated metal-to-metal contact under that heavy spring.

I'm looking forward to your thoughts and inputs.

Nick


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Post# 1090805 , Reply# 7   9/26/2020 at 15:27 (1,242 days old) by goatfarmer (South Bend, home of Champions)        

goatfarmer's profile picture

No brake issues? No brake assembly needed. Don't fix what ain't broke.


Post# 1090850 , Reply# 8   9/26/2020 at 22:25 (1,242 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md)        
MT DC Brake Assemblies

combo52's profile picture

I 2nd what Kenny says, brakes almost never on MT DC washers, just be sure that it has a few tablespoons of heavy transmission oil in it.

 

It does have a Lining in it, if it fails it will screech when bringing the tub to a stop, I would not brother taking it apart or replacing it with a new one, it is very unlikely that a new one is as well made as the original one was.

 

John L.



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