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Thread Number: 84578
/ Tag: Vintage Automatic Washers
Maytag a408 Spin Cycle Issue |
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Post# 1089907 , Reply# 1 9/19/2020 at 16:10 (924 days old) by electronicontrl  (Grand Rapids, MI) |
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quickly clicks off, presumably to protect itself 
Hello MountainMan,
When you stated "quickly clicks off, presumably to protect itself from overheating" my initial thought was the motor carriage is not gliding correctly and it looses the "self-clutch" ability. But with the new motor just humming, I'm not certain. But I'll ask if you've replaced the motor carriage assembly during the time you've had the machine? I've had a similiar problem with one of my Maytags (though I did not have the timer popping)and a new carriage fixed the issue. | ||
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Post# 1089908 , Reply# 2 9/19/2020 at 17:29 (924 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Conn) |
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| Post# 1089914 , Reply# 4 9/19/2020 at 18:00 (924 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas) | ||
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| Post# 1089917 , Reply# 6 9/19/2020 at 18:16 (924 days old) by Repairguy (Danbury, Texas) | ||
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Post# 1089919 , Reply# 7 9/19/2020 at 18:23 (924 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Conn) |
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When you try the 1/3Hp motor does it start up to speed right away or slowly? Does the centrifugal switch kick out instantly? With the old motor have you tried turning the machine on while sliding the motor all the way forward to slacken the belts then slowly let it slide back and see what happens? If the belts squeak something is binding and causing this issue. | ||
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Post# 1089941 , Reply# 9 9/19/2020 at 21:18 (924 days old) by qsd-dan (West) |
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| Post# 1089985 , Reply# 10 9/20/2020 at 07:48 (923 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea)) | ||
JMO as they say: MM, I believe your suspicion of the timer is well placed. They are not supposed to sound like bacon frying.
Motors are weird. When they are stalled they draw roughly twice the current they are rated to operate at. Hots 'em up in a hurry, at which point (6 seconds you say?) the thermal cutout clicks.
Even if they are mechanically free to turn, two other conditions must be met for the motor to start. Both windings must have power, one via the start capacitor. To make the motor run 'backwards' as it does in spin, the polarity of one (either) winding must be reversed.
The differential between the windings is what makes the motor start. Otherwise, it just sits there hotting up until it cuts out. Even if it is free to turn. Some motors may start anyway, some may not or only sometimes, and probably not under (normal) load. "Normal" is where the motor carriage comes in. If it's stuck the load is no longer "normal". But you've checked that.
In the timer, to reverse one winding requires two sets of contacts, one on each end of the winding. Typically the timer does this with two double-throw contacts. To reverse, the two contacts swap out positions with respect to powerline. One goes up, the other goes down. This happens during the delay between wash and spin. That's why the delay is there. Because once the motor starts, the start winding is disconnected. Then if you were to reverse the run winding instantaneously, nothing would happen.
Anywhich, one of those double-throw reversing contacts is not working properly in the spin direction. If you've already had the thing apart, go at it again. Now that you know what you're looking for, it may be possible to remedy by repositioning the contacts or resurfacing them further. If the fault is the cam rather than the contact, it may even be possible to build up a worn part with epoxy (somewhat tricky). Otherwise, dig up a new timer. | ||
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Post# 1090009 , Reply# 11 9/20/2020 at 11:26 (923 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Conn) |
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I would say reinstall the original motor and wait for the timer to arrive then try that one and see if its fixed. If so then try the 1/2Hp motor. If that motor still hums it may not be compatible to that machine. Only start it for a brief second and if it hums shut it right off to prevent damage to the timer contacts. Then maybe look for an OEM set of belts online
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Post# 1090063 , Reply# 13 9/20/2020 at 19:06 (923 days old) by robbinsandmyers (Conn) |
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To the best of my knowledge.... | ||
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Post# 1090071 , Reply# 14 9/20/2020 at 20:16 (923 days old) by DADoES (TX, U.S. of A.) |
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| Post# 1090231 , Reply# 16 9/22/2020 at 05:35 (921 days old) by arbilab (Ft Worth TX (Ridglea)) | ||
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Post# 1090236 , Reply# 17 9/22/2020 at 07:37 (921 days old) by combo52 (50 Year Repair Tech Beltsville,Md) |
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Spin Troubles On A MT DC Washer The problem is the belt does not want to slip properly at the start of spin.
This is sometimes a problem on MT DC washers, first thing to do is be sure you have a proper clean belt, be sure there is no oil on the pulleys, if so clean completely with solvents, if the belt has any oil on it spray it with something like aerosol Spray & Wash and then wash in hot water& detergent [ or throw in a FL washer with a load of rags ]
The motor carriage needs to move easily and with the belts in place should still be able to move almost an inch toward the center of the washer with the belts installed.
The pump belt on MT DC washers should be very loose, However in cases like yours try tighting the pump belt just to the point of making the main drive belt slip a little more.
Finally be sure your voltage is staying above 110 volts at the instant of spin start, you can easily add a start capacitor which we always carried on out Maytag service trucks.
Maytag using the belt as the clutch was a simple and reliable [ when it works ] and it usually did, but no other washer design ever used such a 1/2 assed system, by not using a idler tension pulley or an off-set motor tension design this system allowed belt slippage during wash or not enough slippage at spin start etc.
Ironically Mts first DC washers had a proper belt tension system 1956-1959 and they finally improved the design again around 2000 after leaving service techs to struggle with a far less than perfect design for about 40 years.
John L. | ||
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