A matching dryer (model # DDA-62), ..... that I have for my matching WDA-62 washer,  has a motor that is toast. I started the restoration process of the dryer and during disassembly I found that the original motor looked to be in great condition. After popping the end cap to inspect the start switch, I found a crispy start winding. Ohming out the windings, found the start winding to be totally burnt open.

If you guys remember, I did a full concourses restoration to the matching WDA-62 washer and now I'm dead in the water with the dryer.

Does anyone have a M7301 OR C1411 dryer motor?  I am betting the motors were basically the same across several years from probably '60 - '64 ..... except for the filtrator models, where the book shows a different HP for this model motor. But would probably work as well. 

FYI, the M7301 is the burnt original. The C1411 mentioned is a motor in my DIA-62 dryer and is identical. This is why I am assuming most any motor out of an early 60's Frigidaire dryer would work.

Any help greatly appreciated! Please look in your parts stashes and see if you have something similar,

Bud - Atlanta

Here's the thread showing the washer restoration and final product. Was hoping to have a "working" matching dryer to go with it!!

www.automaticwasher.org/c...

Bud:

Is that the '62 dryer you got from me???  

Bob

update to motors. Completely rebuilt and ready to go.

I used one motor winding you sold me, reusing the original end covers and armature from the DDA-62 dryer that I am in the middle of restoring. One unique thing about the original DDA-62 dryer motor, it had cast iron end covers and bigger bearings, meaning the armature shafts at the bearings are bigger ..... then stepped down to the regular 1/2" shaft size that the pulleys are installed on. As seen in Pic #1.

The second motor was rebuilt as well and will go into the DCIF-63 I have for a later restoration project.

Here are some pics of the motor restore process.

-New internal wire leads on one winding that were brittle.

- Old oil packings removed and replaced with new and fresh oil added to both motors.

-Everything cleaned and fresh paint as well.

-Finished assembly coated with 2-part clear urethane to prevent future rust.

Thanks again for your help!

Bud - Atlanta

but GM, with their appliances and automobiles used lots of parts that never got any kind of plating or coating to prevent oxidation or rust. And if the part was painted, their idea of paint was a lick and a promise with a very thin coat.

Good example of uncoated parts on these motors were the end caps and threaded rods that hold them together (no coatings). These required bead blasting to clean them up .... the aluminum got a coat of clear and the steel rod bolts got a coat of phosphorous parkerizing.

The start switch contacts on both the board and the switch flapper were removed and silver cadmium oxide was TIG welded on the electrical contact areas to add new thickness to the contacts.

Here are a couple of before pictures and the rust issues encountered with the original motor. Once the assembly is back together, the whole thing gets an added coat of 2-part clear coat urethane for another 50+ more years of "rust free service" this time round.